• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.377-385
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• 2016

In order to investigate the possibility of Sesamum indicum L. (S. indicum) extract as an active ingredient for wrinkle-care cosmetics, we prepared 70% ethanolic extract of S. indicum and measured its elastase inhibitory activity and collagenase inhibitory activity. We also evaluated the effect of S. indicum extract on protein and mRNA expression of MMPs in fibroblast cell (CCD-986sk). For anti-wrinkle effects, elastase inhibition activities and collagenase inhibition activities were 37.8% and 45% at a dose of $1,000{\mu}g/mL$ of S. indicum 70% ethanol extract. For a cell viability test, measured on fibroblast cell by ethanol extract of S. indicum, results showed 96% with cell viability at $100{\mu}g/mL$ concentration. According to the results of western blot of ethanol extract from S. indicum the expression of the matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), matrix metalloproteinase-2 (MMP-2), matrix metalloproteinase-3 (MMP-3) protein was decreased by 63%, 43%, 49% at $100{\mu}g/mL$ concentration. Reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction (PCR) of ethanol extract from S. indicum showed that the expression of MMP-1, MMP-2, MMP-3 mRNA was decreased by 82%, 79%, 82% at $100{\mu}g/mL$ concentration. The findings suggest that 70% ethanol extract from S. indicum has potential as a cosmeceutical ingredient with anti-wrinkle effects.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.235-244
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• 2022

In this study, the cell viability, radical scavenging ability, elastase activity, moisturizing activity, and antimicrobial activity of mixed fermented extract of vitamin tree fruit, acai palm fruit, mango, lemon, apricot and blueberry as an active ingredient were measured. The experiment was performed at three concentrations(0.5 / 1.5 / 2%), since cytotoxicity was not shown at these three concentrations. Based on this, a radical scavenging experiment was conducted to compare with L-ascorbic acid, a representative raw material of an antioxidant material. The results showed that the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging ability was 95.1 ± 0.6%, 94.3 ± 0.7%, 95.3 ± 0.6%, 95.1 ± 0.7%, 95.1 ± 0.3%, 95.5 ± 0.3%, and 95.4 ± 0.4% respectively, when the concentration of the mixed fermentation extract was 2%. As the concentration increased at the three concentrations (0.5/1.5/2%) and the content of blueberry extracts increased, sample 7 showed excellent elastase activity at a concentration of 2% to 0.9 cm, such as retinol crystal, and moisturizing activity was also found to be 71.5%, 75.6%, and 81.6%, respectively. Particularly, at the 2% concentration of the mixed fermented extract, the antibacterial activity effect on Propionibacterium was very excellent in sample 7. Therefore, it is considered that it is worth developing the mixed fermented extracts of 2% concentration as a cosmetic component with antioxidant, moisturizing, and antibacterial properties.

• Journal of Food Hygiene and Safety
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.258-264
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• 2015

Withania somnifera has been used in folk medicine to treat various ailments for centuries. In this studies to investigate the whitening effect of Withania somnifera extracts as an active ingredient for whitening cosmetics, the antioxidant capacity and the effects of Withania somnifera extracts on melanogenesis in B16-F10 melanoma cells were identified. Withania somnifera extracts significantly reduced both tyrosinase activity and melanin content in a concentration-dependent manner. Furthermore, it was found that Withania somnifera extracts decreased ${\alpha}-MSH$ (melanocyte-stimulating hormone)-induced tyrosinase activity and MITF(microphthalmia associated transcription factor) protein expression. These data indicate that Withania somnifera extracts attenuate ${\alpha}$-MSH-stimulated melanin synthesis by modulating MITF expression and that they may be a useful therapeutic agent for treating hyperpigmentation and an ingredient of whitening cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.40 no.4
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• pp.403-412
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• 2014

To develop an effective skin whitening agent for cosmetics, we isolated cucurbitacin B from Cucumis sativus L. which has been used as traditional skin lighting regimen by the bioactivity-guided fractionation, and investigated the inhibitory effects of cucurbitacin B on melanogenesis. At a non-cytotoxic concentration, cucurbitacin B reduced melanin contents of B16F1 melanoma cells in a dose-dependent manner. Cucurbitacin B did not directly inhibit mushroom tyrosinase activity, but it inhibited intracellular tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner. Its inhibitory mechanism on melanin biosynthesis was further assessed, and we found that cucurbitacin B significantly decreased the protein level of tyrosinase, a major melanogenic enzymes and MITF, a master transcriptional factor of melanogenesis. In addition, cucurbitacin B increased the expression of WW domain-containing oxidoreductase (WWOX) which is known to function as tumor repressor and inhibits $Wnt/{\beta}$-catenin pathway. Collectively, these results suggest that cucuritacin B from C. sativus could be used as an active ingredient for skin whitening.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.291-312
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• 2003

Reactive oxygen species are capable of damaging biomolecules such as lipids, proteins, and DNA, which can not only lead to various diseases, but also oxidative damage resulting aging. In our previous study, Cercis chinensis (Leguminosae) showed a potent antioxidant activity. Nineteen compounds were isolated through antioxidant activity-guided fractionation. The C. chinensis extract and some of the constituents exhibited a potent antioxidant activity on the free radicals and lipid peroxidation and a notable protective effect on the t-BuOOH induced oxidative damage. In vivo test of skin damage induced by UVB irradiation, the extract of C. chinensis and a constituent, piceatannol, exhibited a significant protective effect. The life-span of the HEK-N/F cells were extended by 1.21-2.12 fold as a result of the continuous administration of 3 $\mu\textrm{g}$/ml of the C. chinensis extract and the active constituents compared to that of the control. These observations were attributed to the inhibitory effect of the C. chinensis extract and its constituents on the age-dependent shortening of the telomere. Thus, C. chinensis was demonstrated to protect the skin cells against oxidative stress and inhibit thereby the cellular aging, followed by expectation as anti-aging cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.96-104
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• 1998

It was possible to produce W/O/W one step multiple emulsion on the system which satisfied following conditions. 1. 1-5％ of hydrophilic liquid surfactant over HLB20 and lipophilic liquid surfactant which has HLB 3∼5 2. Non wax copolymers as oil thickener 3. More than 0.5％ of carbomer as aqueous thickener 4. The manufacturing process which neutralize the dispersed carbomer (2.0％ in water), after emulsifying. For the selective addition into inner and outer aqueous phase, we melted the glucose in water before emulsifying. Using an Anthrone analysis method, we analyzed the encapsulation yield of glucose in inner water phase. It was possible to raise the water encapsulation yield of the multiple emulsion through the following conditions. 1. Using of anionic hydrophilic surfactant(HLB 40) and lipophilic surfactant (HLB 3∼5) 2. Controlling the ratio of hydrophilic surfactant and lipophilic surfactant 3. Strengthening interface with increase of non wax oil thickener. When the separated adding process of glucose was adopted, approximately 85％ of glucose was added selectively within inner aqueous phase.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.117-138
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• 2003

Reactive oxygen species are capable of damaging biomolecules such as lipids, proteins, and DNA, which can not only lead to various diseases, but also oxidative damage resulting aging. In our previous study, Cercis chinensis (Leguminosae) showed a potent antioxidant activity. Nineteen compounds were isolated through antioxidant activity-guided fractionation. The C. chinensis extract and some of the constituents exhibited a potent antioxidant activity on the free radicals and lipid peroxidation and a notable protective effect on the t-BuOOH induced oxidative damage. In vivo test of skin damage induced by UVB irradiation, the extract of C. chinensis and a constituent, piceatannol, exhibited a significant protective effect. The life-span of the HEK-N/F cells were extended by 1.21-2.12 fold as a result of the continuous administration of 3 $\mu\textrm{g}$/ml of the C. chinensis extract and the active constituents compared to that of the control. These observations were attributed to the inhibitory effect of the C. chinensis extract and its constituents on the age-dependent shortening of the telomere. Thus, C. chinensis was demonstrated to protect the skin cells against oxidative stress and inhibit thereby the cellular aging, followed by expectation as antiaging cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.1
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• pp.43-52
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• 2017

EtOAc fractions of Magnolia obovata (M. obovata) Bark extracts were studied for the potential ingredient as a safe and effective whitening cosmetic material. The concentration of active substances honokiol was determined by HPLC. In vitro, the fractions reduced the extracellular and intracellular melanin contents in B16F10 cells in dose dependently and inhibited extracellular melanin secretion ($IC_{50}=11.05{\mu}g/mL$). The $12.5{\mu}g/mL$ treatment of maximum concentration effectively inhibited up to about 60% to the amount of extracullular melanin. Also, the $12.5{\mu}g/mL$ treatment of maximum concentration effectively inhibited up to about 59% to the amount of intracullular melanin ($IC_{50}=10.85{\mu}g/mL$). The $IC_{50}$ value of ${\alpha}-arbutin$ used as a positive control was $59.99{\mu}g/mL$. So, EtOAc fractions of M. obovata Bark extracts showed whitening effect when compared with the non-treatment group. In case of in vivo study, Cosmetic cream with EtOAc fractions of M. obovata Bark extracts was approved by Ethics committee of KDRI (IRB number: KDRI-IRB-1537). As a result in progress for skin sensitization as well as assessment of skin irritation through repeated patch test, skin allergens was identified as non sensitizing agents. Also, cosmetic cream with EtOAc fractions of M. obovata Bark extracts showed significant topical whitening effect and reliable skin safety when compared with the non-treatment group. In conclusion, EtOAc fractions of M. obovata Bark extracts may be a useful cosmetic ingredient for effective skin whitening.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.46 no.4
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• pp.391-401
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• 2020

Flavonoids are polyphenolic compounds derived from plants metabolites and are known to be capable of controlling various human physiological functions. Among them, fisetin (3,3', 3', 7-tetrahydroxyflavone) is found in various fruits and vegetables, and it has been recently known to restore the function of certain tissues through senolytic activity. In this study, targeting human epidermal keratinocytes, control of skin barrier genes and antioxidant efficacy of fisetin were analyzed. Fisetin increased the activity of telomerase and decreased the expression of CDKN1B. In addition, it increased the expression of KRT1, FLG, IVL, and DSP, which are main genes that make up the skin barrier. The fisetin also increased the expression of CerS3 and CerS4 genes, which are forms of ceramide synthases. These results show that the efficacy of fisetin is not limited as senolytics but is also involved in various physiological regulation of human keratinocytes. Therefore, we consider that fisetin could be used as an active ingredient in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.3
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• pp.259-267
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• 2023

This study was conducted to evaluate physiological activity of flower extract of peony (Paeonia lactiflora Pall.) by hydrolysis and to use it as a valuable cosmetic ingredients. Four cultivar of peony flowers were extracted, and the highest active ingredient contents was selected, and that cultivar was used for hydrolyzing. The results showed that high concentration of hydrochloric acid (HCl) hydrolyzed, and biological hydrolysis using enzymes had no activity. The deglycosylation of peonidin 3,5-diglucoside occurred by hydrolysis. The hydrolysate contains 63.3 ppm of peonidin, a red-colored anthocyanin compound. The antioxidant activity of hydrolysate was compared with extract. The results showed the strong antioxidant activity in hydrolysate (96%) than extract (82%). In addition, hydrolysate of peony flower showed higher inhibitory activity of NO release than extract. UVA assay using fibroblast cell (CCD-986Sk) showed that hydrolysate increased cell viability than extract under UVA exposure. Based on these results, we anticipate that hydrolysate of peony flower can be used a valuable cosmetic ingredient.