• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.1
• /
• pp.100-114
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study was to analyze the characteristics of supermodern fashion designer's work, which is shown by responding to supermodern environment where non-spaces such as road, railroad and airport are surplus in modern city environment. For the study, the researcher used existing study and specialized book basically and analyzed photograph materials by selecting them in specialized fashion book, internet site and designer's homepage. The results of this study showed that supermodern fashion design is the functional fashion responding to the change of time and space concept of supermodern society directly. As the common points of supermodern designer's works, first, they try to create private space enabling wearer to cope with risk caused by the environmental change and transitional space by adding architectural factor to fashion. Second, they display the design with protective function and metaphorical expression of concealment and deception in the supermodern environment where nonspace is increasing. Third, designers search the functional design from the aspect of fabric and detail while intending the technology in order to cope with supermodern environment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.2
• /
• pp.111-127
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to understand the importance of exterior influential factors and kunstwollen(artistic will) of fashion designer. In order to investigate the differences which based on periodic backgrounds, social influences, cultural actualities and kunstwollen, Vivienne Westwood, Issey Miyake and Hussein Chalayan who have different social and cultural contexts are selected. Also through this research, people would understand the clothes has the values as the art works which have philosophy of creator and recognize the importance of fashion as an intermediation for comprehension of history, society and culture. Vivienne Westwood presents her honor to British history and culture in the way of her unique interpretation. Also she expresses the authority and the pride of woman who lives in the present age. Issey Miyake accomplishes the harmony of human body and soul. He attains the most perfect beauty through incomplete beauty of cloth. Hussein Chalayan produces his fashion works as a form of concept which is keep asking question about existence of human being. Fashion is the work of art which Is based on the relationship between clothes, human body and spirit. The fashion designer makes human life has value through his or her creations and tries to communicate with the world.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.23 no.6
• /
• pp.987-1003
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to supply available data for men's fashion design planning by analyzing the trend and design tendency of the preppy look in the domestic men's collection. In the men's collection of Seoul fashion week from 2011 S/S to 2015 S/S, 494 photos judged to be the preppy look by three design specialists were chosen in Seoul fashion week and style.com's web-site. Design analyses were compiled based on year, season, brands, item, color, material, and silhouette. The preppy look was found often in S/S season, three piece combinations were the most common, and "H", "I" silhouettes were also popular. Refined black and refreshing orange were used with traditional preppy colors like navy, beige, gray, and white. Contrast color arrangement and neutral, moderate tones were seen repeatedly. Two-thirds of fabrics were pattern-less with clean, bulky, and soft textures. Coordinating accessories like hats, backpacks, books, headsets were used frequently. Among the various preppy fashion types, there were 'traditional preppy' faithful to tradition, 'sophisticated preppy' with refined semi-formal look, 'sportive preppy' with active sports sense, and 'natural preppy' with natural and comfortable senses. In a contemporary preppy look, traditional and practical senses are combined with casual and sportive pieces. This study can provide the data for design planning, interpreting, and applying the fashion themes along with contemporary sensibilities since the preppy look is based on cultural history.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.24 no.6
• /
• pp.873-885
• /
• 2016

It is common knowledge that a conventionally woven textile consists of two assemblies of parallel threads (warp and weft), one interlaced with the other at ninety degrees. Where each of the two assemblies is arranged in a particular colour sequence, a check design, known as a 'tartan', may be created. Although similar check-type cloths have been produced worldwide, it is the tartans of Scotland which have received most attention and it is here that a complex set of rules evolved and tartans of different types became associated traditionally with different regions, family groups or 'clans'. There is an impressive array of publications focused on the identification of tartans and their clan associations. This paper explains the nature of tartans, analyses typical surface structures, ratios and proportions, and suggests possible avenues of use for modern designers. The principal sources of data were a collection of tartans held at ULITA - An Archive of International Textiles (University of Leeds, UK) and Stewart's 1974 publication The Setts of Scottish Tartans. Based on the observation that divisions into halfs and thirds were dominant, a series of templates is presented with the intention of developing an awareness among designers that ratios and proportions used in familiar or traditional frameworks can be employed in a modern context.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.9 no.6
• /
• pp.855-871
• /
• 2001

The purposes of this study were to compare the marketing compose elements of Apgujung and Shinchon branch of Hyundai Department Store and to suggest desirable fashion marketing strategies for other Department Stores and retailing stores. The results were as follows: Two kinds of factor were classified form this study; one was Hardware elements such as Trading Area Site, Store Composition, Scale, and Subsidiary facilities etc., another was Software elements like Store Concept, Image, and Merchandising and so on. The followings were suggested from Hardware elements; 1) Trading Area could be classified'local type'and 'spread type'. 2) Each branch was differentiated from store formation of conventional department store which had food department in basement. There were the most powerful women's fashion brand to lead costumers in second basement. 3) In accordance with the position of subsidiary facilities of Hyundai Department Store,'Water Jet Effect'strategy and'Show Effect'strategy could be usefully applied for other Department Stores and retailing stores. 4) The strategy of approaching easily to the target floor which was located in lower floor, could be applied to various retailing stores. The followings were suggested from Software elements; 1) Stores management coping with poles-apart in costumer could be needed to other Department Store and retailing stores. 2) It also could be needed to find and maintain effective ratio between common brand and differentiated brands in the other Department Stores.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.22 no.5
• /
• pp.776-793
• /
• 2014

This study attempted to figure out the usage of the modular system in other fields through literature review and empirical study, analyze its structural method in fashion. After analyzing architecture & product-related books, the Internet data and previous studies, the modular system's five structural methods were obtained. Then, 991 photos of women's clothes from 2003 to 2014 were collected through the fashion websites in Korea and abroad. The results can be summarized as follows: First, the following five structures were derived: assembling structure, overlapping structure, arrangement structure, inserting structure and folding structure. Second, according to analysis on the structural method of the modular system in modern fashion, overlapping structure (34%) was the most common. Third, in fashion, the use of fastener for installation and removal is important for assembling structure. In terms of overlapping structure, 3D volume by vertical accumulation was commonly observed. Arrangement structure revealed a horizontal and flat shape through simple arrangement. In inserting structure, on the contrary, non-standardized modules were used as a part of clothes or decorative elements. In folding structure, origami technique for reduction and expansion was used.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.25 no.4
• /
• pp.419-432
• /
• 2017

The purpose of this study was to investigate preferences and satisfaction levels in maternity and nursing brassiere. A questionnaire was conducted on 302 women from their 20s to 40s who had breastfeeding experience. The questionnaire included questions on participant demographics, purchase behavior, and design preference and satisfaction levels. The majority(98.0%) of the participants had had experience using maternity/nursing brassieres. More than 90% of the participants agreed with the need for maternity/nursing brassieres distinct from regular ones. Shopping online was the most common means of purchasing them. The most and second-most owned fastener types were the detachable shoulder belt type and inside-cup type, respectively. The most selected reason for purchasing or wearing a maternity/nursing brassiere was the convenience of donning and doffing the brassiere during breastfeeding. Participants had lower satisfaction levels with how well maternity/nursing brassieres support and center the breasts, and with the variety of designs available on the market. Respondents indicated that fasteners for breastfeeding should be developed to provide comfort and convenience for breastfeeding. Wearing comfort was reported as the most important factor in purchasing selection, both during the pregnancy and breastfeeding periods. No-wire, back closure, full-cup, U-shape wing, and skin color were the most preferred design styles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.24 no.4
• /
• pp.498-510
• /
• 2016

As social media are emerging as essential communication channels for corporates in all areas, luxury jewelry brands have implemented enhanced strategies for brand story videos by creating brand channels on YouTube. In this study, a comparative analysis of the videos made available by Cartier and Tiffany&Co. on their YouTube Brand Channels was conducted, with the aim of identifying their strategic characteristics. The research method encompassed, both literature review and empirical investigations. A quantitative analysis was conducted by means of the 'HEART' model, a type of luxury jewelry brand story, and the following common strategic elements were identified. First, in their brand story videos both brands focus primarily on 'theme'. Second, 'relationship' and 'artisanship' are emphasized in addition to 'theme'. Third, the videos incorporate high level aesthetics to stimulate the fantasies and dreams of their audiences. The strategic differences between the brands are as follows. : First, 'artisanship' is given the greatest significance along with 'theme' in Cartier videos, while 'relationship' has prime significance in Tiffany&Co. videos. Second, a difference between a European approach and an American approach towards luxury brand building is evident, with Cartier hosting exhibitions while Tiffany&Co. provides gala videos instead.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.18 no.1
• /
• pp.150-160
• /
• 2010

This research was intended to furnish basic data which can be helpful to maintain and improve the skin health and to activate aromatherapy by analyzing the knowledge, attitude and behavior on the aromatherapy skin care of college students. As their grade got higher, students of beauty class showed the level of knowledge on aromatherapy higher than those of non-beauty class, and that of girl students was higher than that of boy students and as the living standard of students got higher, and pocket money of a month of them got more, the level of knowledge on aromatherapy of them was high, and as the interest in appearance and satisfaction on appearance of them got higher, the level of knowledge on aromatherapy of them was high. In common characteristics, as the living standard of them got higher, and pocket money of a month of them got more, the level of attitude on aromatherapy of them was high. As the interest in appearance of them got higher, the level of attitude on aromatherapy on the interest in appearance of them was high. In the characteristics related with the skin, as the skin health condition of students got healthier, the level of attitude on aromatherapy of them was high, and it was high in the students who had much agony on the skin color.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.23 no.3
• /
• pp.498-511
• /
• 2015

This paper examines advertising images of fashion brands in vertical social network site (SNS) from the viewpoints of message strategies. Vertical social network sites are types of social curation systems applied to social networking, where information is selected, organized, and maintained. Fashion brands communicate with consumers by presenting images on vertical SNSs, anticipating improvements in brand image, popularity, and loyalty. Those images portray content for particular brands and seasonal concepts, thus creating paths for product sales information. Marketing via SNSs corresponds to relationship marketing, which refers to long-term interrelationship and value augmentation between the company and consumer, and viral advertising, which relies on word of mouth distribution via social network platforms. Taylor's six-segment message strategy wheel, often used for analyzing viral ads, was applied to conduct a content analysis of the images. A total of 2,656 images of fashion brands advertised on Instagram were selected and analyzed. Results indicated that brand values were somewhat related to the number of followers. Follower rankings and comment rankings were also correlated. In general, fashion brands projected sensory messages most often. Acute need and rational messages were less common than other messages. Sports brands and luxury brands presented sensory messages, whereas fast fashion brands projected routine images most often. Fashion brands promoted on vertical SNSs should portray advertising images that combine message strategies