• Title/Summary/Keyword: Chinese silk

Search Result 111, Processing Time 0.022 seconds

Breeding of (다수성 편친한성(片親限性) 가을누에 품종)

  • Kang, Pil-Don;Sohn, Bong-Hee;Lee, Sang-Uk;Kim, Mi-Ja;Jung, I-Yeon;Kim, Young-Soon;Kim, Yung-Dae;Lee, Heui-Sam
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
    • /
    • v.46 no.2
    • /
    • pp.54-57
    • /
    • 2004
  • A new silkworm variety "Buhungjam" for autumn rearing season is $F_1$ hybrid between Jam149, a japanese race bred from introduction breeding and Jam150, a chinese race from introduction breeding. Jam149, japanese parent of the "Buhungjam" showed high GCA in pupation percentage, cocoon shell percentage and filament length and Jam15, chinese parent showed high GCA in cocoon shell percentage and cocoon filament length. In the local adaptability test performed at 8 local areas in spring of 2003, Buhungjam records 7% higher in cocoon yield and 8% in raw silk yield than the check variety, Daesungjam.

A Comparative Study on the Change in Oriental Linked pearls Pattern (동전(東傳) 연주문의 변천과정 비교연구 -5세기~10세기 벽화복식 및 출토 직물을 중심으로-)

  • An, Bo-yeon
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
    • /
    • v.40
    • /
    • pp.243-270
    • /
    • 2007
  • Linked pearls pattern expressed on textiles have no limited scale or shape when manufacturing, so they are free in expression. And from the design, material, and color we can analogize the social culture of that age. Oriental linked pearls pattern was started from the Sasanian Persia and introduced through the Silk Road, so it is closely connected with the East and the West culture. This study will consider from the 5th century to the 10th century; the mural costume of the West Central Asia, the ancient textiles excavated from the Sinjiang and Qinghai area of China, and the linked pearls pattern which are collected at Shosoin, Japan. And from this study, will concentrate on clarifying the linked pearls pattern's condition of the cultural exchange between the East and the West and it's structural variation process. The design of linked pearls pattern delivered to the East through the Silk Road is differed by area. For example, in the Western Pamir Plateau, where the ancient Sogdians mainly lived, the excavated linked pearls pattern's subject were deer or cassowary variated from the West Asian motif. But the ones excavated from Kucha Xingang had Chinese motifs added so they showed Chinese characters or Buddhist Bodhisattva image instead of Helios. Like this, the appearance of new patterns, which were accompanied by structural variations, gradually deviated from the standardized pattern of the Sasanian Persia. And this structural variation process has relations with the construction and arrangement method of various patterns of the after ages. The foliated floral Spray, which is placed at the lozenge space of linked pearls' space, had developed into ogival - shaped pattern (Neunghwamun). And the prevalence of geometrical structure pattern after the 10th century and the unfolding method of Tapjamun which is arranging unit pattern in order, are similar to the linked pearl pattern. In brief, linked pearls pattern accompanied by technical improvement let us understand the polished artistic code from its expression, and has importance in showing universal pattern beyond region and culture.

Thinking in Terms of East-West Contacts through Spreading Process of Sarmathia-Pattened Scabbard on Tillya-Tepe Site in Afghanistan (아프가니스탄 틸랴 테페의 사르마티아(Sarmathia)식 검집 패용 방식의 전개 과정으로 본 동서교섭)

  • Lee, Song Ran
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
    • /
    • v.45 no.4
    • /
    • pp.54-73
    • /
    • 2012
  • In this article, we examined the patterns of activities of the Sarmathians though in a humble measure, with a focus on the regions where the Sarmathian sheaths spreaded. One of the main weapons the mounted nomads like the Scythias, the Sarmathians, and the Alans used at war was a spear. Though complementary, a sword was the most convenient and appropriate weapon when fighting at a near distance, fallen from the horse to the ground. The Sarmathian swords continued the tradition of the Akinakes which the Scythias or the Persians used, but those of the Sarmathians showed some advances in terms of the easiness with which a sword was drawn out from a sheath, and the way the sheaths were worn to parts of a human body. It turns out that the Sarmathian sheaths, which were designed for the people to draw swords easily, having the sheaths attached to thighs through 4 bumps, spread extensively from Pazyryk, Altai, to South Siberia, Bactria, Parthia and Rome. The most noteworthy out of all the Sarmathian sheaths were the ones that were excavated from the 4th tomb in Tillatepe, Afghanistan which belonged to the region of Bactria. The owner of the fourth tomb of Tilla-tepe whose region was under the control of Kushan Dynasty at that time, was buried wearing Sarmathian swords, and regarded as a big shot in the region of Bactria which was also under the governance of Kushan Dynasty. The fact that the owner of the tomb wore two swords suggests that there had been active exchange between Bactria and Sarmathia. It seemed that the reason why the Sarmathians could play an important role in the exchange between the East and the West might have something to do with their role of supplying Chinese goods to Silk Road. That's why we are interested in how the copper mirrors of Han Dynasty, decoration beads like melon-type beads, crystal beads and goldring articulated beads, and the artifacts of South China which produced silks were excavated in the northern steppe route where the Sarmathians actively worked. Our study have established that the eye beads discovered in Sarmathian tomb estimated to have been built around the 1st century B.C. were reprocessed in China, and then imported to Sarmathia again. We should note the Huns as a medium between the Sarmathians and the South China which were far apart from each other. Thus gold-ring articulated beads which were spread out mainly across the South China has been discovered in the Huns' remains. On the other hand, between 2nd century B.C. and 2nd century A.D. which were main periods of the Sarmathians, it was considered that the traffic route connecting the steppe route and the South China might be West-South silk road which started from Yunnan, passed through Myanmar, Pakistan, and Afghanistan, and then went into the east of India. The West-south Silk road is presumed to have been used by nomadic tribes who wanted to get the goods from South China before the Oasis route was activated by the Han Dynasty's policy of managing the countries bordering on Western China.

A Study on Perfuming Clothes and the Incense Trade of East Asia in Goryeo Dynasty (고려시대 동아시아 훈의(熏衣)문화와 향재의 교역 연구)

  • Ha, Sumin
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
    • /
    • v.53 no.2
    • /
    • pp.204-221
    • /
    • 2020
  • East Asian countries share a culture of perfuming clothes. The prosperity of the Maritime Silk Road and the incense trade are direct factors that have led to the development of incense culture. Perfuming clothes is a method of applying fragrance by burning incense. The Chinese could make an incense mixture with various types of incense, and records demonstrating use of perfuming clothes tools (熏籠) show that they might have perfumed clothes with incense mixtures. During the Tang dynasty, the incense trade thrived. Examples of ancient literature such as 『千金要方』, 『香譜』, 『香乘』 describe how to make incense for perfuming clothes and how to perfume clothes. 『桂海虞衡志』 and 『諸蕃志』 shows trade partners and goods. Incense was introduced to Korea alongside Buddhist culture. 『買新羅物解』 shows Silla traded incense with Japan. One of the trade goods recorded in 『買新羅物解』 is perfuming cloth incense (熏衣香), which establishes that Silla performed perfuming clothes at that time. During the Goryeo dynasty, Goryeo exported musk as well as ginseng. The royal family burned incense from the Song royal family. Noblewomen preferred sachets. The use of this dress continued into the Joseon dynasty. 『買新羅物解』 showed that Japan imported incense from Silla. 『The tale of Genji』 illustrates Heian nobles' incense culture, perfuming clothes culture, and trade of incense. Perfuming clothes tools became essential articles for marriage purposes and it developed in a practical shape. The Champa had a perfuming clothes culture. It is described on 『諸蕃志』. As Agilawood is found in Tongking, and Tongking was neighbor to the Champa and China, they might have had a perfuming clothes culture as well. Korea, China, Japan, and Vietnam shared a perfuming clothes culture. We can identify universality and commonality in the purpose of perfuming clothes, time of development, the method of making the incense mixture for perfuming clothes, the method of perfuming clothes, the tools, the gender of perfumer, and the type of herbs and spices.

Analysis of the background fabric and coloring of The Paintings of a 60th Wedding Anniversary Ceremony in the possession of the National Museum of Korea (국립중앙박물관 소장 <회혼례도첩>의 바탕직물과 채색 분석)

  • Park Seungwon;Shin Yongbi;Park Jinho;Lee Sujin;Park Woonji;Lee Huisung
    • Conservation Science in Museum
    • /
    • v.29
    • /
    • pp.1-32
    • /
    • 2023
  • The Paintings of a 60th Wedding Anniversary Ceremony Created by an Unknown Painter (Deoksu 6375), housed by the National Museum of Korea, is a five-panel painting book depicting scenes from a wedding ceremony. Hoehonrye is a type of repeated wedding ceremony to commemorate a couple's 60th wedding anniversary with congratulations from the community. The paintings of the book record five scenes from the wedding: jeoninrye, a ceremony where the groom brings a wooden wild goose to the bride's house; gyoberye, the groom and the bride bowing to each other; heosurye, pouring liquor to toast to the couple's longevity; jeopbin, offering tea to guests; and a banquet to celebrates the couple's 60th wedding anniversary. The book describes figures, buildings and a variety of items in detail with delicate brushstrokes. The techniques were examined using microscopy, infrared, and X-ray irradiation and hyperspectral imaging analysis. The invisible parts were examined to identify the rough sketch and distinguish pigments and dyes used for each color. The components of the pigments were determined by X-ray fluorescence analysis, while the dyes were identified by UV-vis spectrometry. Microscope observation revealed that the fabric used for the paintings was raw silk thread with almost no fiber twist, and plain silk fabric. Hyperspectral imaging analysis, X-ray fluorescence analysis, and UV-vis spectrometry confirmed that the white pigment was white lead and the black was chinese ink. The red pigments were using red clay, cinnabar, and a mixture of cinnabar and minium. Brown was made using red clay and organic dyes, and yellow using gamboge. Green was identified as indigo, malachite, chrome green, barium sulfide, and blue as azurite, smalt, and indigo. The purple dye was estimated as a mixture of indigo and cochineal, and gold parts were used gold powder. Hyperspectral images were distinguished parts damaged and conservation treatment area.

Chinoiserie in the Eighteenth-Century Rococo Fashion (18세기 로코코 패션에 나타난 시누아즈리[Chinoiserie])

  • Shin Jooyoung;Kim Min-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.56 no.1 s.100
    • /
    • pp.13-31
    • /
    • 2006
  • This study will explore Rococo chinoiserie not only as a prominent style of the decorative arts in general, but also as an important factor that influenced $18^{th}$ century fashions in dress. Two premises support the conclusion of this study. One is that the chinoiserie is truly a hybrid, a totally new style resulting from the mixture of various traditional elements from the East and the West, with little regard for the authentic nature of the original styles. The other is that the geographical scope for defining the chinoiserie influence in the Rococo fashion can be expanded beyond its lexical meaning; the style eventually encompassed visual cues from various Eastern cultures including China, India and Turkey. Regardless of the specific origins, the oriental influences for Rococo fashion can be categorized into two types. The first type is a complete appropriation of structural elements of Eastern clothing, such as pagoda hats, pagoda sleeves, turbans decorated with plumes or fur-trimmed open robes and then combining them with Western dress. These exotic and fancy dress ensembles were worn as masquerades, theatrical costumes or portraits. One extraordinary example is the banyan, a man's dressing gown, which also had a place in everyday life, not just as special costume. Although the banyan became more tailored as time passed, the traditional shape of this Eastern garment was accepted unaltered in the beginning of the $18^{th}$ century. The second type of influence shows in the use of eastern textiles, especially silks, which were made into women's dress. It did not matter to the fashionable lady if her dress was made of the silk produced in China or a European copy of the Chinese original, as long as it satisfied her taste. It is difficult to detect the signs of exotic style from a glance in this type of chinoiserie dresses since it was more ambiguous and conservative adaptation of the oriental influence in Rococo dress styles than the first type. In this study, various oriental influences appearing in $18^{th}$ century Rococo fashions can be defined as part of the chinoiserie style based upon the suggested premises. No matter what the origin of these oriental fashions was, this hybrid of the East and West made one of great impacts on the most frivolous and splendid period of western fashion history.

Breeding of WhangBoJama Sex-Limited Yellow Silk Silkworm Variety Suitable for Spring Rearing Season (춘잠기 강건 다수성 한성황견 누에품종 "황보잠" 육성)

  • Kim, Kee-Young;Sung, Gyoo-Byung;Kim, Mi-Ja;Ji, Sang-Duk;Kweon, HaeYong;Park, Kwang-Young;Shon, Bong-Hee;Kang, Pil-Don
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
    • /
    • v.51 no.1
    • /
    • pp.63-67
    • /
    • 2013
  • A new silkworm variety "WhangBoJam" for spring rearing season is F1 hybrid between Jam317, a japanese strain bred from introduction breeding and Jam318, a chinese strain from introduction breeding. In the local adaptability test performed at 8 local areas in spring of 2012, the hatchability rate of WhangBoJam was recorded 95% similar to Kum HwangJam. The larval period was 8hours more long than KumHwangJam. The pupation percentage was recorded 6.6% higher than KumHwangJam. Single cocoon weight was recorded 2.29 g similar to KumHwangJam and cocoon yield(21.3 kg) was higher than KumHwangJam. The concentration of DNJ was measured to 0.22% in WhangBoJam, lower than DaePoongJam(0.26%). In the Paecilomyces tenuipes production ability test, the pupal weight of Whang BoJam was 1.33 g/individual, higher than KumHwangJam (1.19 g/individual).

Breeding of Daepoongjam, a Sex-limited Larval Marking and High Silk Yielding Silkworm Variety for Spring Rearing Season (다수성 편친한성(片親限性) 봄누에 품종 "대풍잠" 육성)

  • Kang, Pil-Don;Lee, Sang-Uk;Jung, I-Yeon;Kim, Kee-Young;Kim, Mi-Ja;Hong, In-Pyo;Kim, Young-Dae;Lee, Heui-Sam
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
    • /
    • v.48 no.2
    • /
    • pp.37-40
    • /
    • 2006
  • A new silkworm variety "Daepoongjam" for spring rearing season is $F_1$ hybrid between Jam151, a Japanese race bred from introduction breeding and Jam152, a Chinese race from introduction breeding. In the local adaptatability test performed at 8local areas in spring of 2005, the heavy cocoon yield of "Daepoongjam" was recorded 6% higher than "Kumokjam". The concentration of Deokynojirimycin (DNJ) was measured 4.22 mg in "Daepoongjam", similar to "Kumokjam" (4.26 mg). In the Peacilomyces tenuipes production ability test, the pupal weight of "Daepoongjam" was 1.61 g/individual 13% heavier than "Kumokjam" (1.41 g/individual)

Ancient Seaports on the Western Coast of India: The Hub of the Maritime Silk Route Network

  • DAYALAN, DURAISWAMY
    • Acta Via Serica
    • /
    • v.3 no.2
    • /
    • pp.49-72
    • /
    • 2018
  • The extensive maritime trade network between the Harappan and Mesopotamian civilizations as early as the $3^{rd}$ millennium BCE is a testimony to the long maritime trade history of India. From the dawn of the historical epoch, the maritime trade network of India expanded extensively. The findings of a large number of coins, pottery, amphorae and other materials from Italy and various other European countries, west Asia, China, Korea, Africa, the Arabian Peninsula, Sri Lanka, Southeast Asia and Far-East countries in India, particularly in the coastal regions, are a testimony to the dynamic maritime trade of India with other countries in the early period. Similarly, pottery, sculptures, inscriptions and other materials of Indian origin are also found in those countries. The depiction of different types of ships on the coins, paintings, sculptures, seals and sealing, exhibit the variety of vessels used for navigation and other purposes in the early period. The over 7500 km-long coastline of India is well known for its seaports located at river mouths or outlets to the sea. The Periplus Maris Erythraei, Ptolemy, and Indian literary sources mention many seaports on the western coast of India. Interestingly, archaeological investigations in many of these port towns have yielded material evidence exhibiting their dominant role in transoceanic trade and commerce with many countries in the early period. This paper discusses in detail all the major ancient seaports on the western coast of India and their maritime trade activities. At the outset, the paper briefly deals with the Harappan's maritime network, their seaports and the type of ships of that period. Following this, the maritime trade network of India during the historical period with various countries in the east and west, the traces of Indian influence and materials abroad and foreign materials found in India, the products exported from India, the trade winds and navigational devices and the depiction of ships on the coins, paintings, and sculptures of the period are discussed in detail. After briefly highlighting the coastline of India and its favourable nature for safe anchorage of ships and the strategic position of the seaports of western India, an extensive account of the major ancient seaports of western India like Barygaza, Ashtacampra, Gundigar, Kammoni, Khambhat, Bardaxema, Suparaka, Calliena, Semylla, Sanjan, Naura, Tyndis, Muziris, Nelcynda and other seaports, and their maritime trade activities are given based on archaeological excavations and explorations, literature, epigraphy, foreign accounts, and numismatic evidence.

A Study on the Fengshui Shapes of the Four Propitious Sites Recorded in The Canonical Scripture (『전경』에 기록된 사명당(四明堂)의 풍수 물형(物形) 연구)

  • Shin Young-dae
    • Journal of the Daesoon Academy of Sciences
    • /
    • v.41
    • /
    • pp.133-178
    • /
    • 2022
  • This study investigates if four propitious sites (四明堂, sa myeongdang) identified in Daesoon Jinrihoe's The Canonical Scripture correspond with the orthodox descriptions of dragon, energy hub, sand, and water (龍穴砂水, yong hyeol sa su) which are held by Fengshui as conditions necessary for that specific designation. In this study, these conditions, based on the shape of the site-formations, were observed via through on-site surveys and the application of the theories presented by traditional books on Fengshui. First, the dragon veins (龍脈, yongmaek) of the energy hub of the Five Immortals Playing Baduk (五仙圍碁穴 oseonwigi- hyeol) on Mount Hoemun in Sunchang consists of solid soil, is like a spiderweb, rises and lays prone, winds in every direction, and looks almost disconnected while actually remaining connected. Second, the Fengshui characteristics of the energy hub of Worship Held by Buddhist Monks from Abroad (胡僧禮佛穴, hoseungyebul- hyeol) on Mount Seungdal in Muan is that the branching feet (枝脚 jigak) support the mountain range by forming a valley to the left and right of the dragon veins that stretch from the peak of Mount Seungdal. Also, the direction-changing helm (橈棹 yodo) supports the mountain range solidly can be said to be well-developed. It is likewise noted that there is an excellent change in dragon veins in that exhibit curvature that spans being high, low, rising, and lying. This makes it appear as though the dragon is wriggling back and forth. Third, the state of the energy hub of Celestial Maidens Weaving Silk (仙女織錦穴, seonnyojikgeum-hyeol) on Sonryong Ridge in Jangseong County demonstrates overall harmony between mountain and water as it is near Mount Ju and Mount An and has a solid water outlet to which it is tightly fastened such that its energy does not leak out. Meanwhile, the positioning of its blue dragon of the east, red phoenix of the south, white tiger of the west, and black tortoise of the north is so intimate that its long flow can be said to be spinning. The Songryong Ridge area where energy hub was formed between soil and bedrock is the right land for a great favored location as it corresponds with Fengshui logic in an exemplary manner. Fourth, the Fengshui characteristics of the energy hub of Subjects Receiving the Imperial Command (群臣奉詔穴, gunshinbongjo-hyeol) at Baerye-jeon Field in Taein can be described as embracing the village snuggly as it centers around Mount Wangja, and its blue dragon and white tiger respond to each other. Additionally, a clear distinction between host and guest is noticeable in the positions of Mount Ju and Mount An. The flowing body of water in front of the village wraps around that village as a Horizontal Water Formation (橫水局, hoengsuguk), and vigorous vapor from the earth draws breath as the yin-yang energy of the landscape courses through the earth. As dragon veins, the range of the mountain, are like the blood vessels within the human body and the dragon is compared to the limbs, the energy hub of Subjects Receiving the Imperial Command at Baerye-jeon Field in Taein can be identified as a favored location that was formed directly by the sky and earth.