• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.862-873
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Military style in the 20th century and the images of the Military look shown in recent collections. The results of this study are as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Military style includes authority, functionality, resistibility and bisexuality. Authority is represented in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Functionality is represented in pants suits and skirts suits which are comfortable and simple. Resistibility is represented in wrinkled, dirty-old and torn military items. Bisexuality is shown on the military pants suits that a skirt or a mink coat is draped over. 2) The Military look in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, sexual, sporty, avant-garde and ethnic images. Classic images are appeared in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Romantic images are represented in the military items made of pastel-tone lace or splendid colored silk. Sexual images are appeared in designs to expose or to focus in women's body. Sporty images are represented in the military items made of new materials such as cotton-fleece, cotton-jersey and tencel. They have camouflage prints, melange-gray and fluorescent colors. Avant-garde images are appeared in the deformed suits and outer made of special materials with camouflage prints, khaki, gray and black. Ethnic images are represented in wearing military and ethnic items at the same time or military items made of ethnic colors, prints and handmade details.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.27-39
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of denim dresses from the 19th century until the $20^{th}$ century and analyze those changes shown in Paris Milan London New York collections from 2001 S/S to 2013/14 F/W. The results of this study are as follows; 1) In the mid-$19^{th}$ century, the denim pants were working suits. In the 1920's, they started to be recognized as ordinary clothing and they were supplied to women in World War II. In the 1950's, denim pants stood for youth and resistance, and they became popular among teenagers. In the 1960's, hippies who protested against the Vietnamese War would wear worn-out denim pants symbolizing peace and freedom. As they became more common in the 1970's, people all around the world wore the clothes. In the 1980's~90's, the waves of high class brand fashions brought in sensualism, extravagance, reactionary tendency, and so forth. Consequently, the aesthetic values of denim dresses have connotations of practicality, resistibility, ornamentation and femininity. 2) Practicality in recent collections is represented in classic fashion which features typical details and raw denim and modern fashion which is made with glossy denim and minimized details. Resistibility is represented in avant-garde fashion which features deformed or over-layered jackets and pants with damaged denim and vintage fashion which is made with wash-out and wild stone denim. Ornamentation is represented in ethnic fashion which is made with wash-out denim and ethnic prints and romantic fashion which features details such as ruffle, frill and shirring as well as lace and flowery decorations. Femininity is represented in sexy fashion which designs to expose or to focus in women's body and elegant fashion which is made with soft and glossy denim and hourglass silhouette.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.8
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• pp.1408-1419
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the fashion trends of last three years and how the trends were imaged by the structural characteristics of the fabrics. The characteristics for 897 fabrics were analyzed from four kinds. eleven volumes of fashion trend magazines. From these magazines, three panels categorized by their frequencies as nine images such as natural, innocent, ethnic, childish, casual, classic, modern and technical, Sub-images of each image such as rustic, irregular, decorative, etc were also categorized. For the each image, fiber contents and structural characteristics of weave type, weight, density, yarn size, twist and fabric finishes were investigated in terms of frequency, range and mean, Results showed that chiffon and organza seemed to have very specific images and used to represent specifically the romantic or ethnic images; whereas voile and jersey was used to represent various images. For S/S seasons, most popular fiber type was cotton. The weave type was not the important factor to give variations in images; plan weave exclusively used irrespective of image. For the romantic, ethnic and innocent images, rather light fabrics were used. For the childish and natural, medium weights, and for the technical, modern and classic images heavy weight fabrics were used. Vaious finishes were employed to represent specific images.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.69-90
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to find the recognition of Korean image fashion design by U.K fashion specialists. U.K is one of the important countries in design field including fashion design since 1960. For this purpose, literature research and focus individual interview research were carried. First, through the researches precedent, it was found that a national image is related with it's design industry and what is Korean image fashion design, were studied. Second, for individual interviews to 13 U.K fashion specialists, who are teaching and researching in University that has postgraduate course over M.A and had industrial experiences from 7years to 22years, were progressed using open questions and visual image stimulus. The open questions were consisted with four parts : personal educational and industrial background, recognitions about oriental fashion, recognitions about Korean image and Korean fashion design before seeing the visual stimulus, recognition about Korean image fashion design and the characteristics of Korean after seeing the visual stimulus. The results are as follows; First, the 12 U.K specialists have recognized 'oriental fashion' is one of important fashion trends now a days. Japan and Japanese designers are recognized as a represented nation and designer in oriental fashion by them. Two of the specialists referred to need changing the term 'oriental' because the term has been used in the sights of western from colonial age and Japanese is not included the oriental any more. Secondly, 11 interviews have recognized nothing about the Korean national image some of them has negative image due to political situation in Korean Peninsula. However 2 interviews who had been Korea before has positive image. In the questions about Korean fashion and Korean fashion designers, 10 of 13 interviews have nothing and negative recognitions. So it was founded that Korean fashion design was recognized as a lower level by U. K. fashion specialists. Thirdly, in the questions about Korean fashion image and the design characteristics of Korean fashion after seeing the visual stimulus, the response was represented two directions. One is about over decorative image through ethnic design and the other is about simple image differ from Japanese. The 13 interviews felt the Korean Image fashion design such like traditional, decorative, opulent, flat cutting, fresh proportion, loose, layering, natural, simplicity, complicate, adventure, easy, stylish, soft, feminine, young image, adult sexy image. The images were analyzed five image groups : adult sexy image, adult ethnic image, natural image, young avant-garde image, young simple casual image. No one preferred the adult sexy image, adult ethnic image and natural image. However 10 interviews preferred young avant-garde group and 13 interviews preferred the young simple casual image. So this group can be understanded and useful informed as one of competitive power in global fashion industry.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.1-24
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• 2021

This study aimed to explore the fashion design and style features, and differences in BLACKPINK, TWICE, and Red Velvet girl groups. A total of 469 fashion photos (132 BLACKPINK, 217 TWICE, 120 Red Velvet) focusing on 23 title songs (7 BLACKPINK, 9 TWICE, 7 Red Velvet) were collected. Photo classification work was carried out in accordance with the design analysis criteria and the results were derived by combining statistical analysis and content analysis. BLACKPINK's fashion design characteristics showed a lot of complex colors, shade tone, pure tone, contrast color coordination, stylistic pattern, slit, patchwork, checklist method, sexy and avant-garde images. TWICE's fashion design characteristics included warm color, complex color, tint tone, monotone, contrast color coordination, tone-on-tone, geometric & stylistic patterns, cotton, silk, a combination of the same material, frill, beads, ribbon decoration, blouse, skirt, and many romantic and ethnic images. Red Velvet's fashion design characteristics were a cold color, moderate tone, monotone, cotton, velvet, geometric pattern, zipper, sequins, T-shirt, pants, tie, belt, and many retro and active images. The fashion styles of BLACKPINK, TWICE, and Red Velvet were as follows. BLACKPINK was divided into sexy avant-garde, sexy active, sexy romantic styles. TWICE was divided into romantic active, romantic classical, and romantic ethnic styles. Red Velvet was divided into retro active, retro sexy, and retro avant-garde styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.110-123
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• 2007

This study is purposed to analyze the characteristics of different images of Hollywood movie costumes centering on the costumes of actresses who are the fashion leaders creating fashions especially focusing on those in 1930s. The scope of this study covers the movie costumes selected from the movies ranging from 1930 to 1939 centering on the Hollywood movies produced and released by large movie distributors and the movie costumes of heroins that exerted great influences on the culture and clothing history of 1930s were examined. As for the methods of study, visual data and image data including movies were collected through related dissertations, articles in journals, internet sites relating to movies and photos and we have analyzed each of the characteristics of the movie costumes appearing in each image. The result of this study is as follows. Firstly, ethnic images were the reflection of orientalism that was popular in the fashion of the age with the purpose of highlighting the exotic appearances of the actresses and were the cases where the characters of the actresses had to be expressed in ethnic styles due to the spatial backgrounds of movie works. Secondly, glamorous images were highlighting the appeals of plump breasts, shoulder lines and the bodies constricted in the middle and the Hollywood movie costumes in 1930s. The smooth and flowing silhouettes of the heroins of the age were mainly long and slim patterns and female's images were expressed by highlighting the beauty of leg lines or especially by halter neck evening dresses that exposed backs and covered breasts. Thirdly, mannish images reflected tough images of males in order to further highlight the reality of the characters of the heroins of the age pursuant to the emergence of the opinions advocating the equality between men and women.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.578-590
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to analyze the formative characteristics appeared in modem Kitsch fashion which has been shown through the empirical data photogrphes from the 2000's to 2003 and the formative characteristics of Kitsch were divided into the material, ornament, color, pattern to understand the modem Kitsch fashion. The findings of this study could be summarized as follows: First, the modem Kitsch fashion in the material was used cheap, counterfeit materials like vinyl, artificial leather, immitation fur, beads and non-artistic materials like metal, plastic, paper and voluptuous material like seethrough to express eroticism and superficiality as the characteristic of Kitsch. Second, Kitsch fashion in the ornament was shown over-decoration by using the various accessories like bracelet, metal belt, gloves, etc to express as childish and coarse mixtures as the characteristic of Kitsch. Third, the modem Kitsch fashion was using splendid and bright, primary colors to express the image of complicated accumulation. Fourth, the modern Kitsch fashion mainly in the pattern was using ethnic, folklore and pop art pattern or print used hippies and pop art fashion to express the primitive purity as bounding of civilized society.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.41-54
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• 2000

History of fashion and clothing is needed to understand modern fashion and to predict Future mode. The period of Romanticism in fine arts was from the end 18th century up to the first half of 19th century. The characteristics of shilouttes were found in the emphasis owomen's body line. This feature of romantic fashion is founded in 1960, 1970, 1980, 1990'mode. Major characters of this times are retro of romantic costume. As time goes by, more romantic fashion was set up and new corncern of 2000 fashion trend. The Characteristics of romantic image in 2000 of fashion trend are the emphasis of romantic details and decorations. Such as ruffle, frill, shirring, beads, spangle, sequin, flower. Trend colors are pink, lilac, aqua blue, yellow, green, pastel color. Trend materials chiffon, organza, satin, velvet, gauze, georgette, lace and glittery material. And floral print and stripe print. Forward­looking fashion is ethnic­romantic image influenced India. Trend and fashion have very close relationship and if it is fully comprehended, it will be good opportunity to awkardness againnst new fashion line.

• Proceedings of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association Conference
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• 2004.06a
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• pp.81-85
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• 2004

Yunnan(云南) province is located in southwest of China in which has four seasons and many historical remains. Twenty-six minor ethnics live in the Yunnan province which is known as a living folk museum. This is because they have preserved and developed their folk costume, artcraft, music and dance in their peculiar way with natural/cultural surroundings.(omitted)

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.35-48
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• 1998

The purpose of this paper is to examine the street fashion, which is influenced by the youth culture in 1960s. Youth culture is the youth subculture which appeared multiform in the 1960s. It tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. Youth cultures as youth subculture are symbolically expressed in their style which had strong characteristics of sub-fashion and anti-fashion, and which are different from mother fashion in shape. Therefore youth subculture fashion had an effect on street fashion in the 60s. The influence that the youth culture fashion had had on the street fashion is summarized as follows: Beats fashion was intelligency look on black dress, black polo-neck shirts, black trousers, black glasses and heavy black eyeliner. Mods fashion was neat style on Edwardian suit with narrow trousers, pointer-toeshoes and smooth croped hair. Folkis fashion was ethnic look, middle east asian look, peasant look, Indian style, south america look, gypsy style, natural materials, natural dying, tie-dye, beads and hand made ornaments. Rockers fashion was violence appearance categorized 'blue collar' on black leather jacket decorated with metal studs and hand-painted insignia, blue jeans and boots for motor bike. Swinging London & the Psychedelics fashion was blend mods look with pschedelic color and motive pattern. Hippie fashion was intermix pschedelic and natural or ethnic style. It was appear to be a meaningless, unpredictable assortment of diverse items and style. Faded and tattered jeans, army jackets, vintage hat, beads, embroidered headband, white sheets, diverse theatrical costumes, sandals or bare feet, granny dress, peasant blouse, blanket cape, tie-dye T-shirts and long hair. Greasers fashion was adorned black leather jacket with chains, fringing, badges, insignia and sleeves had been crudely ripped off. They came to be known wore jeans so soaked with oil. Skinheads fashion was aggressive working class identity with donkey jacket, jeans rolled up, collarless union shirts, heavy boots, braces and hair cropped short.