• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.149-155
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• 1999

A treatment of wave breaking is included in the extended Boussinesq equations of Nwogu. A spatially distributed source function and sponge layers are used to reduce the reflected waves in the computa¬tional domain. The model uses fourth-order Adams predictor-corrector method to advance in time, and discretizes first-order spatial derivatives to fourth-order accuracy, and thus reducing all truncation errors to a level smaller than the dispersive terms. The generated wave fields are found to be good and the corresponding wave heights are very close to their target values. For the tests of wave breaking, although agreement is considered to be reasonable, wave heights in the inner surf zone are over-predicted. This indicates the breaking parameters in the model should be adjusted.

• International Journal of Concrete Structures and Materials
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.307-321
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• 2015

The primary objective of this study is to investigate the feasibility of an innovative surface-mount sensor, made of a piezoelectric disc (PZT sensor), as a consistent source for surface wave velocity and transmission measurements in concrete structures. To this end, one concrete slab with lateral dimensions of 1500 by 1500 mm and a thickness of 200 mm was prepared in the laboratory. The concrete slab had a notch-type, surface-breaking crack at its center, with depths increasing from 0 to 100 mm at stepwise intervals of 10 mm. A PZT sensor was attached to the concrete surface and used to generate incident surface waves for surface wave measurements. Two accelerometers were used to measure the surface waves. Signals generated by the PZT sensors show a broad bandwidth with a center frequency around 40 kHz, and very good signal consistency in the frequency range from 0 to 100 kHz. Furthermore, repeatability of the surface wave velocity and transmission measurements is significantly improved compared to that obtained using manual impact sources. In addition, the PZT sensors are demonstrated to be effective for monitoring an actual surface-breaking crack in a concrete beam specimen subjected to various external loadings (compressive and flexural loading with stepwise increases). The findings in this study demonstrate that the surface mount sensor has great potential as a consistent source for surface wave velocity and transmission measurements for automated health monitoring of concrete structures.

• Journal of Hydrospace Technology
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.1-9
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• 1996

We consider the following two questions mainly in this study. First one is how the free surface hayes affect the lift of a shallowly submerged moving body. For this matte., we reinterpret the theoretical results of Kochin(1936), and point out that the high Froude number approximation is not always on the safer side. Second one is what sort of dimensionless parameters determine the occurrence of wave breaking behind a moving submerged body. Temporarily before getting a better answer, we propose that the two-parameter-plane, namely, the plane of the Froude number and the square root of the ratio of the submerged depth and the body length, may be used for predicting the possibility of wave breaking behind the submerged body. A region in the parameter plane is put forth as that of wave breaking, and the validity of this proposal is shown by its agreement with the existing experimental data of Parkin et al(1955) and those of Duncan(1983). Finally, linear and nonlinear numerical results are compared with the existing experimental data to see in what range of the parameters the linear and nonlinear theory case predict the wave field and the pressure on the body with reasonable accuracy. However, since the experimental data, which offer both the pressure and wave elevation for a submerged moving body, are very scarce, much cannot be attained through this comparative study. Hence, it is strongly recommended to carry out well planned experiments to get such data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.511-520
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• 2007

WAM(WAve Model), deep water wave model has been extended to the region of shallow water, incorporating wave breaking, and triad wave interaction. To verify the model, numerical simulation of waves in Youngil bay, Pohang is performed and the simulated results show good agreements with measured wave data sets, one station at the mouth of bay and two stations inside the bay. As waves propagate toward the shore, wave height gradually diminishes by bottom friction and wave breaking, and wave direction, initially NE changes normal to the shore due to depth refraction.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.46 no.5
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• pp.491-504
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• 2013

In this study, wave breakings over a shelf region are investigated under irregular wave conditions through laboratory experiments in a wave flume. Numerical simulations based on the Boussinesq-type equations are also conducted. The characteristics of breaking waves such as significant wave height, crest and trough heights, the mean water level and the stable wave height are obtained by analyzing laboratory measurements in detail. Obtained results are compared with those of the Boussinesq-type equations model. A very reasonable agreements is observed. The broken waves over a horizontal bottom asymptotically approach a stable wave height($H_{stable}$). In this study, the relative stable wave height is found as $H_{stable}/h{\fallingdotseq}0.56$ for irregular wave.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.565-573
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• 2007

The effect of wave and current interactions on irregular wave transformation over a submerged elliptic shoal is investigated based on numerical simulations of the Vincent and Briggs experiment [Vincent, C.L., Briggs, M.J., 1989. Refraction-diffraction of irregular waves over a mound. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 115(2), pp. 269-284]. The numerical simulations are conducted by a combination of REF/DIF S(a wave model) and SHORECIRC(a current model) and a time dependent phase-resolving wavecurrent model, FUNWAVE. In the simulations, the breaking-induced currents defocus waves behind the shoal and bring on a wave shadow zone that shows relatively low wave height distributions. The computed results of the combined model system agree better with the measurements than the computed results obtained by neglecting wave-current interaction do. In addition, the results of FUNWAVE show a good agreement with the measurements. The agreement indicates that it is necessary to take into account the effect of breaking-induced current on wave refraction when wave-breaking occurs over a submerged shoal.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.141-148
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• 1999

The magnitude of breaking wave forces given by plunging breakers incident on a pile structure is much greater than the forces calculated by Morison's formula, but those forces may act on pile for very short duration in the range of a few multiples of 0.01 second. Hence, a dynamic analysis for the impact forces of breaking waves may be necessary for the accurate determination of pile displacements in the first stage of design. The time series of the impact force along the pile length is thus required, which may be estimated from the pressure distribution. In the present study, breaking wave pressures are measured for a vertical pile at real field which is easily subjected to plunging breakers in stormy weather conditions. The measured data are analyzed and compared with other results to quantify the characteristics of breaking wave pressures in real fields.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.55-59
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• 2005

The present data concerns the wave height distribution around the Ieodo underwater rocks and it was obtained from a 3D hydraulic model experiment which was performed in 1999 by Konkuk University and Korea Ocean Research and Development Institute. The experiment was separately undertaken for 4 different wave directions (NNW, SE, S, NNW) under which wave heights were measured at every 1m interval within the preset grid area, 16m×18m. It was observed that the wave breaking occurred on the top of the Ieodo model for all wave directions. This data may be effectively used for improving or verifying the performance of numerical wave propagation models in the area with the local breaking wave zones.

• Korean Journal of Hydrosciences
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• v.1
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• pp.73-97
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• 1990

A literature review is made on the numerical models of wave-induced currents. The major processes of the flow system are wave breaking, bottom friction of combined wave-current flow and mixing processes primarily caused by wave breaking as well as the flow fields of waves and currents themselves. The survey is given to each item with great emphasis on numerical implication as well as physical mechanism. As noted is the importance in recent investigations, a brief treatment is also given on the currents driven by random or spectral waves.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.105.2-117
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• 1992

The formation mechanism of the vortex streets in the lee of the mountain Is Investigated by a three-dimensional numerical model. The model is based upon the hydrostatic Boussinesq equations in which the vertical turbulent momentum flux is estimated by a turbulence parameterization scheme, but the horizontal viscosity is assumed to be constant. The results show that Karman vortex streets can form even without surface friction in a constant ambient flow with uniform stratification. The vortex formation is related to breaking of the mountain wave, which depends on the Froude number (Fr). In the case of a three-dimensional bell-shaped mountain, the wave breaking occurs when Fr is less than about 0.8, while a barman vortex forms when Fr is less than about 0.22. Vortex formation also depends on Reynolds number, which is estimated from the horizontal diffusivity. The vortex formation can be explained by the wave saturation theory given by Lindzen (1981) with some modification. Simulations in this study show that in the case of Karman vortex formation the momentum flux in the lower level is much larger than the saturated momentum flux, whereas it is almost equal to the saturated momentum at the upper levels as expected from the saturation theory. As a result, large flux divergence is produced in the lower layer, the mean flow is decelerated behind the mountain, and the horizontal wind shear forms between unmodified ambient wind. The momentum exchange between the mean flow and the mountain wave is produced by the turbulence within a breaking wave. From the result, well developed vortices like Karman vortex can be formed. . The results of the momentum budget calculated by the hydrostatic model are almost the same as nonhydrostatic results as long as horizontal scale of the mountain is 10 km. A well developed barman vortex similar to the hydrostatic one was simulated in the nonhydrostatic case. Therefore, we conclude that the hydrostatic assumption is adequate to investigate the origin of the Km8n vortex from the viewpoint of wave breaking.