• Title/Summary/Keyword: Boussinesq 방정식

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Surf Zone Wave Transformations Simulated by a Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Equation (완전비선형 Boussinesq방정식을 이용한 쇄파대의 파랑변형 모의)

  • 윤종태;김종무
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.13 no.4
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    • pp.296-308
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    • 2001
  • A fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation of Wei et al. is finite differenced by Adams predictor-corrector method. A spatially distributed source function and sponge layers are used to reduce the reflected waves in the domain and wale breaking mechanism is included in the equation. The generated waves are found to be good and the corresponding wale heights are very close to the target values. The shoaling of solitary wave and transformation of regular wave over submerged shelf were simulated successfully. The characteristics of breaking mechanism was identified through the numerical experiment and the results of two dimensional wave propagation test over the spherical shoal showed the importance of nonlinear wave model.

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Experimental Study for Beach Process by Construction of Offshore Structure (외해구조물 건설에 따른 해빈 변형에 관한 실험적 연구)

  • 이중우
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.12 no.2
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    • pp.96-106
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    • 2000
  • Though the recent years, large scale structures have been built on offshore for utilization of coastal ocean space as offshore airport and marine terminals. Sometimes, those big scale structures, however, happened to act as significant barriers against waves and severe beach erosion would take place on the coast. The present study deals nearshore topography changes affected by construction of an offshore structure with different distance from the shore. The series of three dimensional movable bed experiments have been examined in detail. Moreover, in order to make clear the relation of nearshore currents and local erosions behind offshore structure, the nearshore currents are calculated by Boussinesq equation model and compared with the same scale condition of the physical model experiments.

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A Multiphase Flow Modeling of Gravity Currents in a Rectangular Channel (사각형 수로에서 중력류의 다상흐름 수치모델링)

  • Paik, Joongcheol;Kim, Byung Joo
    • Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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    • 2019.05a
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    • pp.98-98
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    • 2019
  • 중력류 또는 밀도류는 주변 유체에 비해 상대적으로 밀도가 큰 유체가 밀도차에 의한 추진력으로 흐르는 것이다. 중력류의 수치모델링에는 두 가지 어려움이 있다. 즉, 적합한 지배방정식을 구성하여 적용하는 것 그리고 난류의 영향을 합리적으로 반영하는 것이다. 기존 중력류 해석을 위한 지배방정식들은 유체의 연속방정식과 운동량 방정식 그리고 밀도 또는 농도의 이송방정식을 조합하여 구성된다. 이들 지배방정식을 이용한 연구들은 대부분 두 유체 사이의 밀도차가 충분히 작아서 밀도 변동(variations)의 영향은 오로지 부력항에서만 유지된다는 Boussinesq 근사에 근거를 둔다. 그리고 이송방정식에서 밀도 또는 농도의 확산계수을 점성계수의 함수로 표현하기 위해서 Schmidt 수를 이용한다. 수치모델링에서 Schimdt 수는 상수값을 적용하지만, 이 값은 밀도의 연직방향 경사에 근거한 부력빈도(buoyancy frequency)와 난류량의 따라 큰 차이를 보이는 것으로 알려져있다. 한편, 표준 통계학적 난류모델과 벽함수를 적용한 수치모델링은 초기 중력에 의해서 무너지는(slumping) 단계를 넘어 관성력으로 추진되는 단계와 점성 효과가 지배적인 단계에서는 정확도에 현저히 낮아지기 때문에 대부분 큰와모의(large-eddy simulation, LES) 또는 DNS(direct numerical simulation)수준의 고해상도(high-resolution) 해석기법을 적용하여 공학적인 문제에 적용하는 데는 한계가 있다. 이 연구에서는 Boussinesq 근사와 Schmidt 수를 사용하지 않으며, LES 보다 적용이 용이한 DES (detached-eddy simulation)기법을 조합한 다상흐름 수치모델을 적용하여 중력류를 해석을 시도하였다. 수치해석결과를 실험값과 함께 기존 수치모델링 기법으로 구한 수치해와 비교분석하여 이 연구에서 개발 및 적용된 수치모델링 기법의 적용성을 평가한다.

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Development of Weakly Nonlinear Wave Model and Its Numerical Simulation (약비선형 파랑 모형의 수립 및 수치모의)

  • 이정렬;박찬성
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.12 no.4
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    • pp.181-189
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    • 2000
  • A weakly nonlinear mild-slope equation has been derived directly from the continuity equation with the aid of the Galerkin's method. The equation is combined with the momentum equations defined at the mean water level. A single component model has also been obtained in terms of the surface displacement. The linearized form is completely identical with the time-dependent mild-slope equation proposed by Smith and Sprinks(1975). For the verification purposes of the present nonlinear model, the degenerate forms were compared with Airy(1845)'s non-dispersive nonlinear wave equation, classical Boussinesq equation, andsecond¬order permanent Stokes waves. In this study, the present nonlinear wave equations are discretized by the approximate factorization techniques so that a tridiagonal matrix solver is used for each direction. Through the comparison with physical experiments, nonlinear wave model capacity was examined and the overall agreement was obtained.

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Analysis of Generation and Amplification Mechanism of Abnormal Waves Occurred along the West Coast of Korea (서해안 이상파랑의 발생 및 증폭 기구 분석)

  • Yoon, Sung Bum;Shin, Choong Hun;Bae, Jae Seok
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.26 no.5
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    • pp.314-326
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    • 2014
  • On 31 March 2007, the abnormal wave occurred along the western coast of Korea. In order to investigate the generation mechanism of abnormal waves and to understand the amplification process of the abnormal waves, the observed data were analyzed and one-dimensional numerical model experiments were performed by using both the linear shallow water equation and the linear Boussinesq equation models. Various types of pressure jump for the abnormal waves previously proposed by other researchers were reviewed. As a result, it was not possible to reproduce the abnormal waves from the previously proposed pressure jumps. In this study, we proposed a new form of pressure jump, and numerical simulations were performed in order to check the validity of the proposed pressure jump. The numerical results showed that the calculated period of abnormal waves and the maximum water elevations agreed reasonably well with those of the observations.

Analysis of stream-aquifer using nonlinear Boussinesq equation (비선형 Boussinesq방정식을 이용한 유로대수층 해석)

  • 정재성;김민환;방경미
    • Journal of Environmental Science International
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    • v.11 no.1
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    • pp.57-61
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    • 2002
  • To investigate the flow characteristics by the water stage variation between stream-aquifer, the new solution of nonlinear Boussinesq equation was derived and extended using the Boltzmann transformation. The soundness of the analytic solution obtained from this study was examined by the comparison with the linearized analytic solution and the numerical solution by finite difference method. And the movement, velocity, flowrate and volume of flow caused by the stage variation of stream and the existence of regional gradient were estimated. This new analytic solution can express the groundwater movement between stream-aquifer. So, it might be helpful to manage water environment.