• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.73-84
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• 2022

This study aims to present the direction of research for rational clothing design and production and improve the productivity of the fashion industry by analyzing the most recent 11 years (from 2010 to 2021) with regard to the clothing construction field. Analyzing the research trends in the field of clothing construction, which is deeply related to clothing production, will suggest the direction of research for clothing design and production. To analyze the current status of research in the field of clothing construction, research trends were analyzed, focusing on 525 research journal articles from six Korean clothing-related journals with terms related to torso and upper and lower limbs. The analysis results of this study are as follows. First, the rapid development of IT technology requires changes and innovations in all processes of clothing construction, including body shape analysis and pattern design. Therefore, it is believed that both body shape and pattern research should be continuously conducted to produce clothes with an excellent silhouette and fit depending on the body shape through studies, such as developing 3D patterns and converting 3D body figures into 2D patterns, among others. Second, since body shape studies are concentrated on young, middle-aged, and the elderly, it is believed that various body shape studies should be conducted on infants and elementary, middle, and high school students who have significant changes in body shape due to changes in the living environment. Third, if the content of pattern research is expanded to various items and is widely conducted, it will contribute to the production of clothing that has an excellent fit. Fourth, at a time when aging in society is accelerating, it is believed that research on patterns and clothing systems that can increase the fit of clothing by analyzing the body types of elderly male and female consumers should be actively conducted. Because the analysis was conducted only among six Korean academic journals, there is a limitation in the expanded interpretation of the results derived from this study.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.600-613
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide Torso pattern for Korean middle-aged women using 3D human body scan data. 155 women in their 40's or 50's were measured by Martin's anthropometry. Merging the data of 914 middle aged women provided by Korean agency for technology and standards, total of 1,069 subjects' data were analyzed. For data analysis, ANOVA, factor analysis and cluster analysis were done using SPSS PC+. And representative subject of each cluster was selected and they participated in 3D scanning and Torso pattern suggested for middle-aged women Torso pattern which investing the amount of ease according to each group for diffuse front interscye 30%, armscye circumference 30%, back interscye 40% using 3D human body scan data. The results of this study are as follows. Firstly, as a result of the factor analysis, the first factor was 'obesity index of body', The second factor was 'verticality size of body', The third factor was 'verticality length of upper bodice', The fourth factor was 'drop value to represent silhouette', and the fifth factor was 'physique of upper bodice'. And, middle-aged women type were classified 3 types according to the cluster analysis. Type 1(Y-type) was the long upper Torso with wide shoulder. Type 2(H-type) was flat-body type with comparatively thin upper bodice and thin lower bodice. And type 3(A-type) was the obese type with comparatively thin upper bodice and fat lower bodice. Secondly, using CAD program, point filtering was performed and approximated surface model was made. It used that generated surface smoothing corrected for abnormally extruded points and scattered points based on the curvature information. And 3D surfaces were flatted onto the plane by the internal tools of CAD program. Difference ratios of outline length and area between 3D curves and 2D plane were 0.42% and 0.54%, respectively. Third, wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that distinct difference almost every category. The movement functionality test shows that, in all the tests which reveal significant differences, especially, 'comparison pattern A' experienced inconvenience to neck width and neck depth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.253-273
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• 1998

The culture reflects the ideology of a particular period in time and such values change according to the needs and requests of that time which eventually becomes an important factorin forming the exterior. The clothing is part of a way that composes and expresses the inherent substance of society and culture. Also, the clothing itself manifests the artistic values and behavior of mankind as an external structure maintaining its place as a big part in culture. The purpose of this study are to elucidat the concept of naturalism, which is discussed in many facets in the modern era; I studied the concept as well as the history of naturalism in order to manifest the meaning of clothing in the context of culture and I explained the concept in terms of the modern era. On such ground, I explained the naturalism expressed through clothing and characterized the exter-nal form of clothing. Also, in order to know the stream of naturalism in the modern context, I referred to the Vogue magazine of the 90s, using Delong's ABC method. Naturalism, in the context of modern fashion is a way to express the nostalgia of nature's vi-ability and purity of ecology apart from the artificial and structural appearance that resulted form scientific enhancement and hence, the ecological crisis. Naturalism pursues the soft- ness and comfort of the natural silhouette, color and material of the human body and it can be said that naturalism emphasizes the mix-ture of three substances : human, nature and clothing. The naturalism can be characterized by the factors expressed in clothing as follows. First, the naturalism shown in the form it-self draws the beauty of the bodyline without any reduction nor exaggeration. Without any distorttion of the human bodyline it shown the curve as one moves along, using the soft material. Second, the naturalism shown in color most-ly uses the natural tone with added white color and other color low in intensity and value like the receded colors of the earth that could be compared to the beauty of ecru. Third, the naturalism shown in the material is thin, light and soft in texture. In order to bring out the most natural curve of the human body, the natural fiber becomes the main material, sometimes, using crude materials. Due to the lindustrial improvement, softness and elasticity is added to the natural fibers giving them an important role as materials. Fourth, the naturalism shown in textile depicts the real natural objects in life. According to my study, the personality of naturalism in modern clothing was shown to be most strong in material and then in the order of form, texture and textile. The material com-posed of the natural silhouette and natural fibers were used to make soft color. In form, Paul Poiret made appearance expressing the natural beauty of the human body without the corset ; it continued with the inner lining making the clothing hard but in the 90s, lining-less, extremely exposed clothes and knit wear is used to emphasize the natural beauty of the body. In color and textile, the tendency spok-en above is not as strong but in color, instead of high intensity or value, the usage of neutral colors with added white color or ecru color, ear-th tone is increasing. In textile, the usage of flowers as natural material is seen frequently. As a whole, naturalistic trend in the 90s is increasing and the modern fashion is breaking out from the artificial and architectural form and conforming to a form that can realize the natural beauty of the human body. And the natural color and textile that conforms to such ideas are being used to pursue the human oriented trend that has appeared due to the increase in usage of soft natural fiber. Nowadays, the idea of returning to nature, defying the artificiality, desiring the leisure and psychological abundance that can be explained as naturalistic way of thinking is necessitated in this modern era as long as humans coexist with nature, this tendency will continue in clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.140-158
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• 1999

The purposes of this study are to examine the characters of the lower body shape in the middle aged women and to make slacks pattern on the base of four difference body shapes. The lower body shapes were classified into 4 types on the basis of their lateral view silhouettes. The slacks patterns were based on the lower body shape characters and resulted in followings. In “Type 1” of the right body shape with the standard protrusion of abdomen and hips, little difference from conventional patterns was seen in experiment pattern, in which the front waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+fold(2.5㎝) and the back waist girth W/4+0.5㎝-0.5㎝+dart(3.5㎝). The front hip girth was defined as H/4+2.0㎝+0.5㎝ and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝-0.5㎝ due to its increased ease amount produced by abdominal fat deposition. In the experimental pattern of “Type 2” with prominent hips, the front and back differences of the waist girth and the hip girth and the hip girth were defined as 1.0㎝ and 2.0㎝ separately. Accordingly, the front waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+1.0㎝+fold(2.0㎝), the back waist girth W/4+0.5㎝-0.1㎝+dart(6.5㎝), the front hip girth H/4+2.0㎝+1.0㎝ and the back hip girth H/4+2.0㎝-1.0㎝. In “Type 3” with the prominent abdomen and the flat hips, the front waist girth was set up as W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+fold(4.5㎝) for the increased front fold amount and the back waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+dart(3.0㎝). The front hip girth was made as H/4+2.5㎝+0.5㎝ and the back hip girth H/4+2.5㎝-0.5㎝. In “Type 4” with prominent abdomen and hips, considered were ① the increased front fold amount due to the abdominal protrusion, ② the increased back dart amount and the decreased back dart length owing to the hips prominent and ③ the front and back differences of waist and hip girth for the lateral view silhouette. Therefore the front waist girth was defined as W/4+0.5㎝+2.0㎝+fold(5.0㎝), the back waist girth as W/4+0.5㎝-2.0㎝+dart(4.0㎝), the front hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝+1.0㎝ and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝-1.0㎝. The sensory evaluation of appearance and comfort was appeared more suitable on the experiment pattern than on the conventional pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.9
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• pp.41-50
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• 2006

This study examines the characteristics of the military look in modern fashion. The materials for the study are mainly precedent studies and related literature, although fashion portfolios and magazines, domestic and international, are used for the exploratory study. The results of the study are as follows. First, the military look for women dismantles the sexual symbolism endowed with the clothes by expressing a neutral charm out of dichotomy image between genders. The neutral expression of the military look, different from the military look of the 20th century, provides a chance to feature a new image by pursuing more individual freedom than human itself. Second, the military-look emphasizes feminine sensual charm through exposing, concealing, or decorating with ornaments which are transformed from the elements of the military clothes, This is different from the past military look that expressed masculine rigidity through simplifying the details and emphasizing the male body silhouette. Third, the military look produces a deconstruction image instead of just showing its intrinsic thoughts or symbolic message through combining design elements or symbolic details of the military look with other images, transforming and exaggerating the shapes, or mixing the time point of views reinterpreting the present or the future image.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.807-818
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• 2009

This study is to present a female high school summer blouse with high movement functionality and satisfying appearance, surveyed the students for their understanding of summer blouse. Experimental study's research method was questionnaire survey. By using questionnaires, the satisfaction and comfort of each region of the current worn summer blouse was analyzed. The results of this research are as follows. After surveying 371 high school students in the Daejeon region on the currently worn summer blouse comfort levels, 48.4% showed dissatisfaction about the width of the sleeves and the armpits and over 93% wanted the use of elastic materials as an alternative. After investigating the summer blouses' mending state, 41% of students that mending their clothes chose the alternation of reducing the overall silhouette of the blouse in all areas. This reflects the female high school students' mentality that thin body shape is the ideal.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.594-603
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• 2012

This study aimed to investigate a bias pattern making method with geometrical approach. The bias-cut dress has soft silhouette of drape in the garment. However, the bias cut dress has problem of satisfying the intended garment size spec. This problem occurs from various sources. The main reason is that the bias-cut fabric tends to stretch on longitudinal direction and to shrink horizontal direction when it was hung on the body. The goal of this study was to develop a bias-cut dress pattern making method satisfying the intended garment size spec. The researchers developed the geometrical method of measuring dimensional change by calculating the compensation ratio of the fabric in true bias direction. The compensation ratio was calculated by applying draping ratio of the fabric. Three types of fabrics were used in the experiment. The warp and weft crossing angle of fabric was ranged from $78^{\circ}$ to $82^{\circ}$. The fabrics stretched longitudinally 6.9~9.9% and shrank horizontally 7.2~11.0%. The compensation ratio of the bias-cut pattern for sample dress was calculated for each fabric type. Two types of experimental bias-cut dress patterns were developed for each fabric. One pattern was made with applying full compensation ratio and the other one made with applying partial ratio of the fabric. Experimental dresses were made with these patterns. The results of the evaluation showed that the bias-cut dress pattern applying the partial compensation ratio was more appropriate than the pattern applying the full compensation ratio.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.9_10 s.157
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• pp.1476-1484
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• 2006

This study is on the esthetic characteristics of Tuxedo-Look in the modern women fashion from 1990s to the present. It could contribute to understand the aspects and the sense of beauty of the modern fashion. This study is performed by reviewing the precedent studies, related literature and deploying fashion portfolios, domestic and international fashion magazines for the exploratory study. The results of the study are the following. First, Tuxedo-Look expresses the androgenous image which weakens the superficial message of masculinity or femininity and produces the unified image of men and women. Tuxedo-Look, a symbolic male dress item, is brought in the women clothes and it is recreated by design modification, new wearing style, and producing effects. Second, Tuxedo-Look emphasizes femininity by using a exposure and body line stressed design and matching the women dress items with various materials and colors or tuxedo. Third, Tuxedo-Look suggests a dismantling point of view such as exaggeration, distortion, secession, and breaking from the convention. Tuxedo-Look expresses uncertain value by breaking up the symbolic valueby coordinating with casual items and denies formal construct of tuxedo such as perfect balance, symmetrical silhouette, formality, totality.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.5-16
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to identify the distinctive characterics HYBRID, strictly defined, an offspring that is a cross between different species, genera, or, in rare cases, families, More loosely defined, a hybrid can also be a cross between parents of different subspecies or varieties of a species. Hybrid varieties of plants and animals are of economic value because the hybrid is nearly always more vigorous, larger, and more fertile than either of its parents. Plant and animal hybrids may arise spontaneously in nature or may be produced intentionally by man. Forward-looking fashion explores progress. Adjusting to a world that has integrated genetics and its mutations, the new silhouette seems without references, as if born from a spontaneous generation. A slightly bizarre composite, asymmetrical, discreetly technological aesthetic, it draws on the latest technological details. the pursuit of performance and ergonomics, yet also of comfort and amusement that takes into account the body and its articulations, generates strange garments. Inspired by medical protheses. Focos on fabric touches, their weightiness and surface effects obtained with silicone, rubber or wax. in a range that highlights yellows but can also contrast with colder, slightly surgical hues, the hybrid woman doesn't necessarily want to stand out.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.15-20
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• 2004

These days are referred to as 'the times of textile fashion,' owing to the emphasis on textile design in the fashion industry. Accordingly, apparel companies have increased their interests in developing new types of textiles to overcome the limits of style and silhouette. Now the ultra-fashion of textile, a new way of process and design development, is given much more attention. A Moire interference pattern has a longer wavy circle of interference, an effect of intensity interference, than one made by piling more than one reflecting plate or transmitting plate. Till now, Moire interference patterns have been used to confirm scientific theory and to measure the structure of a body or a subject in areas such as physics and medical science. Work has also been done on the Moire interference effects on TV screens said to cause dizziness and eye strain. This study focuses on the new types of textiles by creating the appearance of the Moire phenomena. Contrary to the present usual stationary patterns of textiles, it is a varying pattern according to the different gratings, different angles, piling gratings, and the movements of the human bodies. In the preceding study, we observed Moire fringes formed by overlapping two different or same kinds of gratings such as parallel line gratings, square gratings, conic gratings and semicircular gratings and tried to find a promising possibility of new textiles through the method of clothes design simulation.