• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.729-740
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• 2009

This study is to research on the rate of expansion or contraction according to movement of the lower body of the man their twenties using Rapid Form software. And aim of this study is to get information of ease allowance in developing slacks pattern using 3D body surface scan data through comparison with existing slacks patterns. Considering on the contraction and expansion according to movement, it need to set the more ease allowance in hip circumference than waist circumference, and the more ease allowance in back hip width than front hip width in slacks. In crotch length, the length of front crotch is revealed contraction but the length of back crotch is revealed expansion. It is desirable lowering front waist line and raising back waist line to possess ease allowance in back crotch area. The length of side seam is revealed a little expansion but the length of inseam is showed a great expansion. To develop slacks pattern of scientific approach using 3D body surface scan data, it need to analysis the rate of expansion and contraction of the lower body based on the movement, shear deformation, slip in fabrics and skin, or in fabrics and fabrics, and slip down from waist line.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.9
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• pp.31-39
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• 2006

This study was conducted to reproduce the two-piece sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size. Fourteen two-piece sleeve patterns of the ladies 'jacket of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The length and width proportion of the upper-sleeve and under-sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's were similar to the two-piece sleeve pattern of jacket which we see now. The elbow line of the two-piece sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was lower than the two-piece sleeve of jacket of today. The cap of the sleeve of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was gathered and this gave volume to the upper part of sleeve but the lower part of the sleeve was tight. The study pattern of two-piece sleeve pattern which had the characteristics of the sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size through modifications based on the evaluation of dressing on two occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the sleeve of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's and to fit Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size with the sensory test.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.577-585
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• 2007

This research aimed for 20 latter man whose body shape of torso alters remarkably to develop nipper pattern of running type considered characteristic of body shape of 20 latter man to keep rather balanced body shape against middle age when body shape changes extremely. 1. running type nipper pattern design. Pattern of running, lining and nipper were designed by flattening surface shell. A basis line of running pattern is completed by applying reduction ratio after 3 times of modification & complement based on surface shell. Nipper pattern is designed with design line set by a plaster cast based on running pattern line. Lining pattern is designed with lining design line set by a plaster cast based on running type outside material and nipper pattern. 2. Functional evaluation of research and commercial nipper. Functional inspection through dress test was applied 5point evaluation method and the result of functional inspection on the sight of a wearer is that research nipper(running reduction ratio 15%, nipper reduction ratio 18%) averaged more 4.8point but commercial nipper averaged less 1.8point in the aspect of 20 items such as wear sensibility, motional function and external appearance aesthetic. Research running type nipper scored high in order of motional function, looks of side, back, front and whole and wear sensibility. Functional inspection in the point of view of an observer is that research nipper(running reduction ratio 15%, nipper reduction ratio 18%) averaged over 4.8point and commercial nipper averaged under 1.9point in 17 items of external appearance beauty. Research running type nipper marked high in order of looks of back, whole, front and side.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.130-137
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• 2013

The percentage of overweight people has increased in older people due to the change of body shape (including pregnancy and giving birth for women). Obesity is accompanied by body shape changes; subsequently, there are more pattern design considerations compared to standard body shapes. This paper classifies the upper body shape of overweight women in Korea, analyzes features by body shape and proposes basic pattern design data that reflects the features of plus-size women body shapes. The data on 540 subjects in the overweight group (from 20 to 69 years old)whose BMI was over 25 was selected. The following features by shape were identified in accordance with the upper body shape classification of overweight women. Body Shape1 had lower body obesity with long stature and arms in proportion to the trunk length and represented 22.2% of the subjects. Body Shape2 had most parts near average sizes for overweight body shapes with short height and arms that represented 37.6% of the subjects (the highest ratio). Body Shape3 was the smallest body shape in the four groups with the most distinct body figure and represented 30.7% of the subjects. Body Shape4 (9.4% of the subjects)was the upper body obesity type (the fattest group)and with of the waist bigger abdominal obesity type.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.79-94
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• 1997

This study was performed to develop a basic stacks pattern for middle-aged women reflecting the characteristics of their lower body types. Anthropometric measurements using sliding guage method were carried out for 4 women 40's For the analysis of the lower body types horizontal and vertical section maps obtained by sliding gauge method and 2 indices were produced. Based on the slacks construction components produced by the drafts of their lower body surface experimental slacks pattern was designed. Multiple comparison test was used to compare 3 existing slacks patterns with the experimental pattern. 1. The results of the body section map analysis were as follows: 1) In the frontal view silhouette of vertical section maps there were less individual differences in items with skeleton landmarks than those without them. 2) In the shape of horizontal section maps waist section represented more round shape than the others and thigh maximum width section had the flattest shape. Flat ratios(depth/width) of subjects were much higer than those of young women which clarified the change of depth was bigger than that of width with aging process. 2. The slacks construction components for pattern drafting were as follows: 1)Ease amount of waist was 0.5cm and front and back waist girth difference was 1.2cm Ease amount of hip was 1,8cm and front and back hip girth difference was 0.7 cm 2) The amount of dart intake incresed in the order of side(4cm) back(3,6cm) from (2.8cm) The length of dart leg incresed in the order of front side back.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.17-28
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• 1999

This study was to analyze factors of the body form and factors of bodice pattern through a surface developement figure for the tight bodice pattern design. Fifty replicas of the trunk surface were made by applying a surgical tape method of female subjects between 18 and 24 years old. The result was as follows: 1. The gaps between direct measurements and measurements of the surface development figure were regarded as allowances for the tight bodice pattern. 2. There are four factors of body form selected by factor analysis. The 1st factor signifies th degree of fatness in the upper body. The 2nd factor signifies the length of the upper body. The 3rd factor signifies the part of the front shoulder. The 4th factor signifies the part of the neck. 3. There are high correlations between center back line of the surface development figure and back length line side line front length line back neck depth back upper chest depth. There are high correlations between back bust line of the surface development figure and back interscye breadth line back upper chest line back armhole line. There are high correlations between front bust line of the surface development figure and front upper chest line front interscye breadth line front armhole line front neck breadth 4. The regression expressions of measurements of the surface development figure of the upper body were analyzed as(Fig. 3).

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.54-65
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• 2014

This study developed basic pattern for competition figure skating wear for school girls. Figure skating wears are difficult for making basic patterns based on standard size chart, because girls' body size are slimmer and more slender compared to the general girl's and the competition wears such as, swim suit with sleeves are, closely in contact with the player's body. The competition wears for school girl was made with consideration of changing of the body shape, physical exercises, and various specificities according to stretch material. To raise artistic effect while doing beautiful motions, and to assist in facile technique motions, competition wears need to have enough ease on the side line from waist to armpit, from armpit to wrist, and in trunk girth including crotch girth. Also, to stand out in beauty, a costume designing has a proper skirt position, length, flare width, and a tight bodice according to the player's body proportion. Most of the customers are displeased at the high price, unfitness of size, insufficient design, and difficulty in access, since they are not sold in sporting goods store. Therefore, a competition wear's basic pattern was made through scientific and emotional process including concerns on material properties, room for activities, and ideal body proportion. Systemizing the basic patterns of production method will solve high repairing expenses, unsuitable sizing, and improve accessibility for purchase.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.433-446
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• 2001

Recently, according to changes in fashion trends, the importance of stretch fabric stands out. A lot of studies on non-stretch woven fabrics have been made, but few studies on stretch fabrics has been made yet. Especially, the study on ease for the patterns, according to body types, of stretch has not been made at all. The purpose of this study was to make clear reduction ratio due to the stretch ratio and to find out the ease for the patterns of stretch skirt according to standard body type to improve the aesthetics and wearing satisfaction. Therefore, fundamental data for aesthetic and functional patternmaking of the stretch skirt can be suggested. The results from the study were as follows: 1. The results from the appearance test were as follows. For the ease on waist, W+0㎝ and W-1㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best fit. For the ease on hip, H+2㎝ and H+0㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best wearing best fit. 2. The results from wearing satisfaction test were as follows. W+0㎝, H+2㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best wearing satisfaction. 3. Based on the results from the above tests, the pattern reduction ratios for stretch skirt were as follows: pattern reduction ratio 3.0∼4.6% of waist, 2.1∼4.3% of hip for standard body type were suggested for the appropriate reduction ratio for stretch skirt. 4. The result from this study for stretch skirt was as follows: For standard body type, W+0㎝, W-1㎝ for waist and H+2㎝, H+0㎝ for hip were appropriate for stretch skirt pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.340-347
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• 2008

A prototype of 3D clothing design system with a direct pattern development function was suggested, reflecting intuitive design functions and design modifications while considering the fit of clothing patterns with the 3D human body in the virtual 3D space. The research method was as follows. Clothing models were created using a 3D design tool, 3ds max on the surface of 3D human body model made by scanning an actual human body. 3D illustrations were completed by revising the fit and sizing of the human body and clothing models. 2D T-shirt pattern was produced 3D illustrations using from a 3D scanning data modeling solution RapidForm 2004, a 2D conversion program for 3D data called 2C-AN, and Yuka CAD. As a result, the following conclusions were made. The fit of the clothing and human body can be adjusted by reflecting individual body figure characteristics and 3D illustrations over the actual 3D body model. Furthermore, intuitive design support functions were intensified overcoming the weak point of existing 3D clothing design system by developing the direct clothing design in the virtual 3D space. 3D illustration design modifications can be directly reflected on clothing patterns from 3D illustrations by 3D clothing design system developed in this study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1008-1016
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to examine the vest patterns with better fitness, function and beauty best suited to the bodies because the previous studies on the vest pattern are not enough to be usable for its making and wearing including the emperiment and practice as well as its direct design and cutting although its wearing range has been widely popular. This study was carried out by making the experimental vest and performing its wearing experiment. The result of this study is summarized as follows. 1. The sensory evaluation on apperance showed that the wholoe average of pattern 4 was the highest for all S, M, L bodies. In addition, it was shown by the bodies that the most suitable related patterns included pattern 4-M body, pattern 2-S body and pattern 4-L body. However, the L body indicated the lowest score in all patterns. Then, this fact means that the diversified studies must be carried out on the vest patterns for the bodies. 2. The results on the function of vertical motions indicated that when the motion angle increased the lifting volume of the vertical motion also increased proportionally, and that the motion at $135^{\circ}$ among these verical motions showed the highest score. Therefore, it is required to consider this fact when determining the vest length in the process of making the vest pattern. 3. The results on the twisted degree of a posture showed that as to the experimental results on these vertical motions the twisted degree increased with the increase of angle. This fact seems to be also important in deforming the vest length when making the vest.