• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.86-99
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• 2007

In this study, the concept of play as an entertainment is redefined and applicable method of fashion design as a play are suggested by analyzing the feature of doll's costume design based on the play pattern. In literary study, the role of playing doll Is described and has been examined by the analysis of scholars' opinions. In positive study, the pattern and costume design of sample costume dolls are analyzed using 624 samples of the representative images collected from the literatures and real figures, and they are classified as collection dolls or fashion dolls in order to analyze the feature of fashion design in playing dolls. As a result of the analysis of doll's costumes based on its use, the costumers are divided into a real world costume which is similar to what human wear in daily life and a virtual costume which is used in the movie or play and the costumes only worn by the dolls. The examination of the type of costume worn by dolls, dress is principally dominant costume in collection doll, whereas in fashion doll, dress is still mainly worn but shirt blouse & pants, shirt blouse k skirt, jacket, coat, bathing suit. etc. are shown dispersedly as well. In the costume silhouette of dolls, collection doll uses mostly A line silhouette meanwhile fit and flare is mostly used in the fashion doll but other silhouettes are also relatively shown a lot. In the means of the color of the costume worn by dolls, collection doll is more similar to those in actual fashion design. On the contrary, the color of the costume that fashion doll is put on is more free and more various because the trendy rotors such as green, yellow, purple, etc are used.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.31-39
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• 2002

The analysis revealed that the pattern represent the function of written language, the Miao's idea of nature as tie object of worship and exorcism, and their primitive thinking. The patterns are chiefly embroidered collars, shoulders of blouse, waist blind and hem lines of skirt. The design of patterns are animals and plants and geometrical figured. Most of patterns are dragon, fishes, birds, butterflies, which are liked by the Miao people. The patterns are highly imaginative and true to life, and are made with strong national and popular features.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1387-1395
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• 1997

Effects of the ambient air temperature and the opening position on the pattern of the clothing ventilation of a thermal manikin wearing an impermeable blouse were investigated by the trace gas method. Under an isothermal condition, the ventilation was governed by diffusion, and the ventilation rate through the wrist-openings was greatly affected by the distance from the openings. Under non-isothermal conditions, however, the ventilation was accelerated by the convection driven by the temperature gradient between the clothing microclimate and the surrounding air; the greater the temperature gradient, the greater the ventilation. Even though it was certainly affected by the ambient air temperature, the ventilation rate was more significantly influenced by the position of openings. The ventilation patterns at the arm and the body were distinctive.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.45-52
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• 1982

This research is aimed at establishing nominal sizes for the clothes manufacturers by using the results from a comprehensive study with 6~9 year-old girls. From the results of the data analysis, we found the following points: 1) The stature and the weight, which have strong correlations with each part of the body, are selected as the independent variables. 2) The frequency-distribution was calculated from the variable quantities(Table 1~5). 3) The nominal size for the jacket, blouse, skirt, and trousers was estimated by the frequency-distribution(Table 6~9). 4) A multiple linear regression model to estimate the 18 items was formulated.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.10
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• pp.47-55
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze and compare the color characteristics of preferred clothing textiles of college students. One hundred nine male and female college students were evaluated for their preference to clothing textiles in previous research. To analyze the color characteristics, spectral data were measured. Color, color tone, and values of $L^*,\;a^*,\;b^*$ according to clothing item were compared. In addition, chromaticity diagram was drawn. The results of this study were as following. 1. The color of the shirts textile that college student preferred most in spring/fall was PB(purple blue) color, lt(light) tone. In general, the preferred textiles for shirts represented a simple color that is close to achromatic color with light and soft shade. The color of the blouse textiles that college student preferred most was PB color, d(dull), g(grayish) and W(white) tone. 2. The most frequently shown color of upper garment was PB, followed by Y(yellow) for shirt and R(red) for blouses. College students prefer a simple color which is close to achromatic color, and a light and soft color was preferred for shirts fabric and they preferred various, medium shades, but closer to pure colors for blouses because college students tend to consider that the aesthetic side is important and usually wear blouses less often than shirts. 3. For slacks, the colors of the preferred textiles were B(blue), PB color and lt.g.(light grayish), g, d and bk(black) tone. Therefore, the preferred textiles for slacks represented simple colors such as bluish or close to achromatic color with light or dark shade. For skirt, YR(yellow red), PB color and lt.g, lt, d. tone were preferred. Therefore, soft light or moderately toned various colors that are close to pure color were especially preferred for skirts. 4. The colors of preferred fabrics for slacks and skirts differed. The colors of the preferred fabrics for slacks were mostly cold color, whereas those of skirts were mostly warm color. And college students preferred various, medium shaded and closer to pure colors for skirts because they tend to consider the aesthetic side as being important. 5. The pattern of preferred fabrics was mostly solid, regardless of clothing item, and melange was the second most preferred pattern. 6. Through the analysis of $L^*,\;a^*,\;b^*$ values, shirt and blouse textiles showed higher $L^*$ value than that of slacks and skirt. The preferred textiles of college students were generally close to achromatic color because the values of $a^*$, and $b^*$ were very low, as confirmed by the result of the chromaticity diagram.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.10
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• pp.1596-1610
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• 2010

This study investigates the studies of development of apparel basic pattern published in domestic journals and the trends in related studies. It also provides basic information on directions for future studies. The data was collected from the theses of domestic journals of the Korean Studies Information (KSI) which were published until December 31, 2009 and retrieved by a keyword related to the design of basic apparel patterns. The data was classified by the journals, the year of publication, research themes, research subjects, and research methods. They were analyzed to find out the overall distribution status and characteristics by time. The number of theses for the analysis was 73 published in 11 Journals total. Reviewing the theses by dividing the times into 7 Chronicles of 5 years in each term since the first thesis was published in 1968, it was found that more active research had been done as time went by. The theme of the theses in most cases was the composition of western apparel. As for items, most cases were on the study of bodice torso basic patterns. Since the period of 5-6 Chronicles, studies in the pattern of underwear, jacket, shirts blouse have gradually increased and the development of patterns using elastic materials are increasing as well. Women were dominant in the studies as subjects and so were young people of both sexes. Unlike the studies in earlier times that focused on the average figure, studies on developing patterns for various figure types have been made since the 5-6 Chronicles. However, there were limited studies on the figures of infants, male youth, seniors, and obese males. As for the research methods, there were common processes for validity testing of patterns through the measurement of the human figure, survey of customers and companies, designing pilot patterns, and wearing trials. The studies showed characteristic the differences in research methods according to the period.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.123-132
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• 2000

When adding shoulder pads to clothing, the shoulder pads brings down the quality of armpit area and the width of shoulder area, 1.5㎝ thick non-woven shoulder pads are good for sensory evaluation but do not function as well. Therefore this study has done to come up with a solution to satisfy both sensory evaluation and functionality. The study did was by using laboratory blouses with three different types of shoulder pads, which were two different armpit depths (1.0㎝, 2.0㎝), 3 types of armpit widths (0.5㎝, 1.0㎝, 1.5㎝). The Result are as followed : 1. The sensory evaluation was affected the most by the armpit depths and shoulder lengths. 2. There were two results for the best sensory evaluation, they were the one with a pad of armpit depth of 1.0㎝, armpit width of 1.5㎝, and shoulder width of 1.5㎝. 3. The functionality was affected in an order of movement, armpit width, and shoulder width. 4. The two results for the best functionality were the one with shoulder pads of armpit depth of 1.0㎝, armpit width of 1.5㎝, and shoulder width of 1.5㎝, and the one with armpit depth of 1.0㎝, armpit width 1.5㎝, and shoulder width of 1.5㎝. 5. In conclusion, 1.2㎝ nonwoven shoulder pads on a blouse with a pattern of armpit depth of 1.0㎝, armpit width of 1.5㎝, and shoulder width of 0.5㎝ will satisfy both sensory evaluation and functionality at the same time.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.125-139
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• 2020

The fashion industry that perceived the severity of environmental pollution, has sought various methods of sustainable fashion. However, most of the businesses paid attention to the development of materials using industrial waste, or vegan material. Thus, this study aims to present the methods for improvement in creativity for inversely developing the design from patterns and present new approaches by applying the contrarian development of proto to class under the limited condition of material concerning general design, selection of material, and production of sample. In the case of three student teams enrolled in the first semester of the second year, the fabric and used clothing donated by industry were used as material. The whole cut for cutting a single fabric in connected state, and Zero Wastes Design within a rectangular frame of fabric, upcycling of used clothes, and cutting out of Geometric Form are suggested. The team(A) produced a zero-wastes coat and whole-cut Pancho that could be variously represented. The team(B) produced two kinds of asymmetric dress by utilizing used check-patterned shirts through upcycling. The team(C) utilized the fabric in geometric forms such as rectangle, trapezoid, and atypical figure by drawing design within donated fabrics. The items were a dress, blouse, and skirt. Consequently, an opportunity for both academia and industry to present more concrete methods for sustainable fashion and deeply perceive the sustainable fashion is presented along with novel methods for creation by carrying out the composition of pattern and design at the same time.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.66-76
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• 1998

In order to investigate the effect of shoulder pad affecting the arm movement, eleven women volunteers of standard body whose age is from eighteen to twenty-four(x±1σ) were chosen and this experiment had done according to front-vertical motion, side-vertical motion and horizontal motion of upper limps for tow different materials of shoulder pad(sponge, non-woven) and four different thickness of shoulder pad(0.6cm, 0.8cm, 1.2cm). On the base of this, this study, when putting on shoulder pad, try to find the reform method of shoulder part pattern. The results are as follows. 1. When puting on shoulder pad to blouse pattern to rise shoulder pad for rate of two-third per thickness is seemingly the best for sensory evaluation. So, when putting on shoulder pad, we understand that in order to improve sensory evaluation. So, when putting on shoulder pad, we understand that in order to improve sensory evaluation of clothes, when that, rising shoulder pad for ate of two-third per thickness is the best. 2. From the results of measure of functional volume and physiological value for functionality evaluation according to thickness and material, motion of shoulder pad, 1.2 cm thickness and non-woven material is evaluated the worst for functionality. 3. From the results of sensory evaluation and functionality evaluation of material of shoulder pad, sponge material is superior for functionality but not for sensory evaluation, non-woven material is superior for sensory evaluation non-woven material is superior for sensory evaluation but not for functionality. So, think that it had better use sponge material for functional clothes, non-woven material for aesthetical clothes. 4. From the results of functionality of clothes, when putting on shoulder pad, the worst discomfortable parts are the armpit part and the shawl part, functionality of these part shoulder be reformed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.992-1008
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• 2009

This study is to present a female high school summer blouse with high movement functionality and satisfying appearance. For the experimental research 6 subjects with closest average body shapes and their body surface was measured at beginning and after selecting a representative movement the tested uniform was worn and the appearance and movement functionality was evaluated. The results of this research are as follows. In the research with the aims to improve the sleeve designed the height in 3 types as A.H/4+3, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1 and their evaluation showed that in the order of best appearance was A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1, A.H/4+3. In the order of best comfort was A.H/4+2, A.H/4+3, A.H/4+1 and the best order for movement functionality was A.H/4+1, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+3. Additional height types designed produced from elastic materials were A.H/4+3, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1 and the resulting order of appearance was A.H/4+3, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1, order of comfort was A.H/4+3, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1 and the order of movement functionality was A.H/4+1, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+3. Integrating these results shows that in using the same concurrent materials, the experiment pattern of setting the sleeve height as A.H/4+2 was the best while in using elastic materials, the experiment pattern of setting the sleeve height as A.H/4+3 was the best.