• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.239-262
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• 1998

The pursuit of freedom by the individual--desire to be liberated from all forms of restrictions-- is one of the defining character-istic of the modern society. As costume is, in part, a product of the spirit of the times, it was only natural that this desire for freedom would find its expression in modern costume as well. Among various forms of restrictions, differentiaton by sex has placed one of the most significant binding influences on individual behavior. From early times, the dichotomous division by sex was incorporated into the disign of costume, and the traditional differestriction of costume by sex imposed a significant restriction on the background,“the modern androhynous look”was born as a by-product of the sexual liberation movement in the second half of the 20th century, based on the concept of the individual as a complete human being rather than as a member exclusively of either the male or the female sex. This paper seeks to examine the androgynous look within a coherent theoretical frame-work, and explore new design possibilities by analyzing and understanding the visual characteristics of the androgynous look. In addition, this paper seeks to define the functional aspects of the androgynous look based on the premise that costume is an embodiment of the spirit of the times. As for research methodology, both theoretical and historical methods are employed. Through a theoretical examination of historical documents, the meaning of the androgynous look is explored from various angles, and order to examine its place in modern fashion, an-drogynous styles are categorized and system atically analyzed. The main findings of the paper can be summarized as follows : 1. Androgyny is a compound word consisting of“andro-”(meaning man) and“gyn-”(meaning woman). In modern times, this word has been associated with the socio-cultural aspect of gender rather than the physical or physiological aspect with the pshchological characteristics of the male and female sexes. Androgynous styles also appear in fashion and general arts such as drama, film, dance, and music. In fashion, the androgynous look, represented by the visual superimposition of “masculine”and “faminine”elements, has emerged as a major element of the 20th-century costume, and has gained broad acceptance among those free spirits wishing to be liberated from the conventional conceptions of male clothing, and the unisex look. 3. The androgynous look in modern fashion reflects the spirit of the 20th century society and culture, and performs various functions as follows : expression of fun, change in gender roles, expression of the inner consciousness, and pursuit of the ideal human type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.55-56
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to analyse body and cosmetic image according to women's sex role identity. The subjects of this study were 433 women over 20 years old. Self-administered questionnaires were used for data collection. SPSS(Ver. 15.0) was used for mean, median, frequency, percentages, factor analysis, and one-way ANOVA. The results of this study were as followed; First, women were clustered into 4 groups according to their sex role identity. 36.5% was classified as an androgynous group, 32.4% was a undifferentiated group, 16.1% was a masculine group, and 15.0% was a feminine group. Second, factors of women's body image were interest in appearance, interest in weight, and charming of appearance. Factors of cosmetic image were natural & sociable, urban & intellect, passionate, romantic, prestige & sophisticate, fashionable & splender, active, feminine, and formal. Third, Androgynous group showed much interests in appearance and charming of appearance, but undifferentiated group had low interests. Androgynous group pursued natural & sociable, urban & intellect, passionate, romantic, prestige & sophisticate, fashionable & splendor, active, feminine, and formal images most when they applied make-ups. Masculine group pursued urban & intellect and active images much and femme group pursued natural & sociable, feminine, and formal images much. However undifferentiated group pursued all factors of cosmetic images less. Forth, androgynous group applied more kinds of cosmetics, but undifferentiated group applied less.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.63-79
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• 1999

The essence of Feminism is to establish the women＇s subjecthood as representing women＇s sexual characteristic and emerging from the fixed idea about women in our androcentric society. Feminism has been developed in various stages : the homogeneous theory which emphasized the similarity between men and women, the heterogeneous theory which persisted in he difference between men and women and underscored womanhood as an unique quality, androgynous theory which insisted on the common of two sexes since 1980＇s. The purpose of the thesis is to discuss the correlation between the feminism and the fashion, to examine its influence on shaping the contemporary fashion, and to infer what the women＇s fashion be like in the coming 21st century. The result of the thesis is as follows : First, the Mannish Look had been developed from the masculinization of female clothing by borrowing the style of women from that of men clothes since 1970＇s. Second, the Glamor Look has been stressed as the feminism began to swing toward which emphasized the difference between men and women, and women＇s sexual characteristics from the late 1970＇s. Third, from the late 19th century, the Fetish Look is still employed in various ways by the avant-garde designers, which impowered to increase the visualization of sex. Fourth, the Androgynous Look was born, androgynous image and neutral image, by the influence of the socio-cultural aspect of gender rather than the physical aspect from the middle 1980＇s.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.1-21
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to typify femininity and masculinity represented in mainstream women's and men's fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 and infer sexual ideology appearing in contemporary Korean society by content analysis with the view of plural sexuality. For the content analysis total 259 editorial fashion photography was analyzed. As the result, 5 femininities and 5 masculinities were typified, and then sexual discourse was inferred out of the frequency of each type and texts with the images. On the basis of previous studies and historical considerations of this topic, the types of sexuality represented in mainstream fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 were classified as follow.: in women's fashion magazines Traditional Femininity and Androgynous Femininity were almost similarily dominant sexuality, and Glamor Femininity, Babydoll Femininity, and Genderless sexuality were alternative. Meanwhile, in men's fashion magazines Traditional Masculinity formed clear dominant sexuality, and Macho Masculinity, Androgynous Masculinity, Adolescent Masculinity, and Genderless sexuality were alternatives. In addition, Androgynous Masculinity in women's fashion magazines occupied the highest frequency, while Glamor Femininity in men's fashion magazines did so. From this sexual discourses represented in mainstream fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 are as follow.: First, mainstream fashion in Korea sticks to the modern values preserving traditional sexual ideology even in this postmodern period of the former 21C. Second, Androgynous Femininity as another dominant femininity with Traditional Femininity connotes the change of conception of femininity in Korean society. Third, Androgynous Masculinity to females is preferred, while femininity to males is still regarded as fetish or adorned object. Fourth, the appearance of various alternative sexualities leads to pluralization of sexuality, and then fashion gradually codifies youthfulness and feminine values, such as body and sexual desire more than before.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.852-866
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze how the women's fashion with the androgynous image(fashion item, adornment) which has appeared on our specialized fashion magazine from 1986 through 2000. As a result of this study I drew the following conclusion. First, masculine image led the market in the first stage of mid 1980 in a men's wear oriented trend that the woman wear masculine style jacket, pants and blouse. In hair style, the short hair of the masculine image was used habitually but the make-up was tend to be made heavily. The ambivalence of the sex was also showed up by expressing the feminine image on the masculine image using the accessories like necklace, earing and bracelet. Second, unlike the first stage, it showed that more and more feminine image was accepted in the second stage of early 1990. The jacket, blouse and pants were rooted as the basic item in women's fashion. The feminine style of long hair and natural make-up with the androgynous image were increased. Third, in the third stage of the late 1990, the fashion items to the comfortable dress of light weight as the life style pursuits the activity and convenience. The feminine image were appeared naturally with a long hair style and natural make-up with the androgynous image. The remarkable features in the fashion accessories were that boots and low shoes were preferred by the increase of the masculine image shoes and the sneakers were seen a lot by the effect of the sports boom.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.5 s.58
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• pp.790-803
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• 2005

This study purposes to examine the background of the sexual concept and femininity, masculinity and gender role in the fields of social psychology and cultural anthropology and investigate the traditional gender role and the fashion's changes according to its role and the examples of the masculinity and femininity expressed in the contemporary fashion and finally analyze the gender identity expressed in fashion. The image changes which appeared in the modern fashion can be considered to be Masculine Look, Garconne Look, Feminine Look, Unisex Look, Androgynous Look and Genderless Look. The Garconne Look caused lots of changes to masculinity in the 1920's along with the changes of femininity. With the effect of feminism, many females wore clothing which had been thought as male's clothing by the appearance of Masculine Look. The major formation reason of Unisex Look can be regarded as the attitude change of the society toward to females and a meaning which doesn't want the differences of the distinction of gender to appear any longer as a characteristic external factor is implied. Androgynous Look which appeared in the 1980's means the integration of femininity and masculinity which is the same meaning with 'androgyny' in itself, Not denying its gender characteristics individually, the Androgynous Look means that women aim at the masculine image in men's clothing or men do at the feminine image in women's clothing. Genderless Look can be considered to a look with a notion to wear clothing freely even in fashion transcending the border of masculinity and femininity differentiated socially and culturally.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.33-44
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• 2004

In this study, based on the postmodern feminism were investigated in the non-fashion areas of painting, advertising and fashion areas. And, fashion illustrations were analyzed visually in the aspect of the essentialism and deconstructivism that constitute the postmodern feminism. In addition, it was examined how women images were expressed in fashion illustrations that reflected the postmodern feministic ideas. The research results first, in fashion illustrations were the essen tialistic women images were grouped in the opening of women bodies and actively emphasize. the opening of women bodies were expressed bodies the fetishistic, ecstatic images, actively emphasize features were expressed the sexual, and realistic images. Secondly, and fashion illustrations the deconstructivistic women images were grouped androgynous features, genderous features, the distorted feminine gender features, complex features. androgynous features were expressed the powerful, grotesque, humorous, androgynous image, that genderous features of immature, boyish image, that the distorted feminine gender features of simple, ethnic, techno-cyber image, that complex features of complex images.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.781-795
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is not only to widen and deepen the understanding of external environments of hairstyle but also to provide the basis of understanding and perspicacity as to the hairstyle which will be created under the influence of new music by contemplating distinctions between Glam Fashion and Punk Fashion of 1970s and by comparing and analyzing distinctions between Glam Hairstyle and Punk Hair Style of 1970s. As the method of this study, first of all four common factors, which are resistance, androgynous, beauty of ugliness and pursuit of pleasure through persona, were able to be ed from both Glam Fashion and Punk Fashion of 1970s, and then by using that factors as analyzing instrumental frame, the above two hairstyles were compared and analyzed through photographic materials in this study. According to the results of comparing and analyzing two hairstyles above, in Glam Hairstyle, the androgynous character is the most remarkable distinction. They tried to overturn the gender role by challenging the traditional color and form of hairstyle. In funk Hairstyle, the resistance is the most prominent distinction. They expressed their group identity resisting a pre-existing generation by putting on threatened and aggressive hairstyle.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.139-150
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• 1989

The present study was designed to answer the following questions: 1) Is there and relationship between the adolescent's sex role identity and perceived parent behavious? 2) Is there any gender differences in perceived parent behavious? 3) Is there any interaction effect between sex role identity and gender in perceived parent behaviors? 109 male and 101 female undergraduates from the five universities in Seoul served as subjects in this investigation. Subjects were administered the Parent Behavior From (PBF) and the Bem Sex Role Inventory (BSRI) in counterbalanced order. A4 (sex-role identity)×2(gender) multivariate analysis of variance was performed for the perceived paternal and maternal behaviors separately. The simultaneous confidence intervals for pairwise comparison were followed when the MANOVA was significant. In testing all hypotheses, .05 was used as a significance level in this study. For the perceived paternal behavious, 1) The androgynous group, compared with the undifferentiated group, reported greater father warmth, active involvement, greater encouragement of cognitive independence, cognitive curiosity, cognitive competence, achievement control, and conformity. 2) The androgynous individuals showed higher father warmth, congitive independence, curiosity, and cognitive competence than the feminine individuals. 3) The androgynous individuals were found to have significantly higher father warmth than the masculine individuals. For the perceived maternal behaviors, there was a significant difference between gender groups in conformity. Daughters reported higher conformity than sons. The interaction effect between sex-role identity and gender, however, was not found to be significant.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 1996.08a
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• pp.22-24
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• 1996