• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.61-79
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• 2013

This study takes a look at the distinct and exclusive culture of Latin America, with a specific focus on Mexico, and attempts to understand its unique cultural identity by comparing, analyzing, and evaluating the characteristics of the Mexican fashion brands, Taller Flora and F$\acute{a}$brica Social, which are brands that have actively used the Latin American cultural identity in its designs. The research method was as follows: 1) performing literature research with specialty publications and thesis that dealt with the two brands 2) analyzing the contents of various articles from the Internet and interviews related to the brands. Thus, this research attempts to understand the characteristics of the fashion brands that use the cultural traits of Latin America in order to dissect its methods and find a way to apply it so that it can be used in different cultures, and in effect, lead to the advancement of the fashion industries, in general. Taller Flora and F$\acute{a}$brica Social are two brands that are able to stand out with a distinct identity by applying traditional native Latin American qualities in its products, as well as its products reflecting a respectful and balanced relationship between people and nature. The characteristics of the two brands are as follows: 1) showing the concept of "the coexistence of diversity" by expressing "the old and the new", "simplicity and flash", and "melding of the Western culture via colonialism and traditional cultures of the aboriginals and other diverse native cultures" 2) achieving "the recovery of the human dignity" by protecting the human rights of the native female artisans and building a network for equality 3) pursuing "free naturalism" by balancing the natural provision of nature and man in addition to promoting environmental protection and conservation of goods 4) becoming "the bridge between communication and exchange" by connecting the artisan, the designer and the consumers together, or the producer and the market, as well as the different cultures of markets from diverse countries.

• 복식
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• 제63권6호
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• pp.14-28
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• 2013

This study aims to identify the elements of black culture and use it to analyze the formative characteristics of casual fashion items as well as the symbolic meanings presented in the graphic designs of the items. First of all, in order to distinguish the identity of black culture, this study made a division into racial, social, and artistic aspects based on cultural specificities of Stuart Hall, a culture theorist. This was for a theoretical review and based on this review, a theoretical framework was developed to analyze the characteristics of American casual fashion design of black people. The case study selected 1719 fashion images of 137 male brands and 33 female brands from websites of companies manufacturing casual wear of black people in America. The following is a summary of the study results. The conceptual characteristics based on specificities of black culture can be categorized into ten attributes: playfulness in order to digest human grief and emotion positively, satire of the mainstream society, spontaneity through emotional expression from the heart, abstractness of various emotions elating suffering, humor trying to express negative aspects as the meaning of light and innocent laughter, dependence with passive attitudes toward discrimination and master-slave relationships in history, resistance against discrimination and disadvantages, African orientation and primitiveness pursuing natural conditions, aggressiveness against violence and unfair treatment, and confidence and defiance against social deprivation and corruption. Based on the results of an analysis through formative classification system founded on racial, social, and artistic aspects of black people, specificities of black culture are of formative characteristics of their casual fashion design. These elements are presented on graphic t-shirts through strong colors, loose silhouette, and details with many pockets. These characteristics were reflected in symbolic meanings presented in the graphic.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권10호
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• pp.1728-1737
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• 2001

1760년대 말의 미국문화는 전통적인 가치관에 반발하는 청년문화운동의 화산으로 특징지을 수 있는데 이러한 사회적인 변화는 복식에 새롭고 혁신적인 스타일을 가져오게 되는 요인이 되었다. 특히 이 시기의 미국의 청년층에 의해 일어난 반문화적인 현상으로 인식되어 온 동앙문화의 도입은 미국의 여성복식에 tie-dyeing(홀치기염)패션의 출현으로 복식에 반영되었다. 이에, 본 연구는 지금까지 복식 학자들에 의한 단편적인 추론으로만 설명되어 왔던 1960년대 말 미국여성복식에 나타난 홀치기염 패션의 특성에 관하여 문화적인 배경에 관한 고찰과 함께 이 시기에 출판된 정기 간행물을 연구의 일차자료로 이용하여 실증적으로 분석하는 데 그 목적이 있다. 연구방법으로는 1955년부터 1975년 사이에 출판된 Vogue와 Mademoiselle 잡지에 실린 홀치기염 패션 사진자료를 내용분석법을 이용하여 수집하여 의류품목, 소재, 기법, 디자이너 및 제조업 체에 관한 내용으로 나누어 분석하였다. 연구 결과, 두 종류의 잡지 모두에서 다양한 소재로 만들어진 여러 의류품목에 각종 기법으로 적용되었던 홀치기염 패션이 이 시기에 나타나, 청년층에서 시작되었던 이 패션이 미국의 대중 및 상류층의 복식에도 확산되었음이 밝혀졌다. 나아가 홀치기염 패션스타일이 가장 많이 보여졌던 1969년에서 1971년 사이의 기간은 청년층의 반문화적 현상이 절정을 이루었던 시기와 일치하고 있어서 이러한 급진적인 사회 현상이 그대로 패션에도 반영되고 있음을 알 수 있었다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.80-96
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to consider the expression of costume through the review of cinema costumes and to provide the model of cooperation between fashion and movie industry by analysis of collaboration with fashion brands in the movie . The subjects are the 1974 film directed by Jack Clayton and the 2013 version by Baz Luhrmann. Cinema Fashion was studied by analyzing the costumes of the two main characters, Gatsby and Daisy, in each scene. Gatsby's costume appeared as a model of traditional American classic suit, sensitive G-G look that symbolizes social success and traditional casual style that reflects upper-class life style. Daisy's costume expressed pastel toned luxury flapper look, oriental art deco style, and prestigious jewelry representing high class. The collaborations with fashion brands were carried out with Ralph Lauren and Cartier in 1974 film, and Brooks Brothers, Prada, and Tiffany in 2013. The value of prestige brands that matched the images of the movie was utilized, but marketing strategies for the promotion of fashion goods were not enough in 1974 version. On the other hand, in 2013 film, the effects of collaboration of the movie and fashion brands were forecasted sufficiently and marketing campaigns for promotion were performed in a various ways. The characteristics of collaborations were as follows: (1) the usage of prestige brands value, (2) collections planning and promotion using the stories of a movie, (3) the usage of multidirectional digital media, and (4) multi-dimensional promotion using entertainment factors. In collaborations with the movie, fashion brands could make cooperative relationship to produce the positive effects for promotion and prestige image strategies and draw attention of the people to the movie and fashion.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.30-43
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to examine the ladylike style of Grace Kelly focusing on her costume design of 1950s movie and star image, and to understand how she became a fashion icon today. Her city elegant look was usually composed of A line or H line suits and dresses, pearl jewelry, gloves, handbags and her classic ladylike attitude. Kelly's luxury casual look epitomized a relaxed elegance based on the American sporting image including the Hermes "Kelly" bag. Her sexual elegant look showed the combination of freshness, ladylike virtue and underlying sex appeal. Her self-confident, ladylike style appeals to modern fashionable women who likes to be elegant but also sexy.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.844-855
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• 2005

The purpose of this paper is to examine which fashion brands are most likely to be investigated by Korean textile firms when they conduct their market trend analyses. The result shows that for the domestic sales, textile firms are most likely to collect and analyze information on the Cheil Textil Co. It is followed by Bean Pole, Chanel, Buberry, Tomboy. For the future domestic sales, textile firms prefers referring foreign fashion brands such as Burberry, ZARA, MaxMara, Missoni, and Chanel. Textile firms majoring exports prefers collecting and analyzing information on D&G followed by Chanel, Gucci, and DKNY. This preference, however, differs when considering exporting areas. Textile firms targeting the French market considers Gucci, followed by Ferragamo, Dior, Louisvuitton. Textile firms targeting the Italian market prefer Chanel, followed by Valentine, ZARA, Gucci, and Armani. Chanel is also top brand for the North American and Japanese markets, and followed by GAP, ZARA, OZOC, Missoni, Munshing Wear. The information content collected and analyzed by textile firms is style, pattern, color, and textile materials for textile firms targeting the domestic sales, while the exporting firms prefer information on color and textile materials proposed and presented by the fashion brands to which they prefer to make reference. The result of this study can be used to effectively and efficiently collect and analyze market information on fashion brands for textile firms majoring the domestic and foreign sales.

• 복식
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• 제60권7호
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• pp.103-116
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• 2010

Recently, the art of the Latin America Culture is being actively introduced into our country. Many concepts in the fashion field contain Latin American culture and their influence is growing. This present study, based on a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture, is an attempt to expand the expression of fashion design and explore the use of works of art in fashion. The case study is on Frida Kahlo (1907~1954), who was a Mexican woman painter who gives us some inspiration in contemporary fashion design. The scope of this case study investigates the Haute couture and the Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2009 which were greatly influenced by Frida Kahlo and analyzes through the formative elements of dress, color, form, pattern and material. Frida Kahlo was a painter whose composition of surrealism held the world of life and death, pain and pleasure, love and parting, thought and freedom, and tradition and modern, etc. As a design inspiration, her influence reaches into accessories, and hairstyles, as well as the Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter. This current study for the correct understanding of the new culture and the introduction of art into the fashion design might be helpful in making fashion a work of art and in extending the expression of the fashion design concept which is based on commercial art.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.296-308
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to comprehend the contemporary sports star fashion and to contemplate aesthetic characteristics of sports star fashion, thereby to establish the styles of sports star fashion. For such purposes, this study first examines aesthetic characteristics of sports fashion and star fashion based on previous studies, in order to analyze aesthetic characteristics of sports star fashion, and conducts a case study by analyzing photographic materials of fashion styles of well-known male sports stars such as the English soccer player David Beckham and American golf player Tiger Woods. The result of this study is as follows: the aesthetic characteristics of the contemporary sports star fashion are virility, functionality, sensuality and deconstruction. (1) Virility emphasizes manly features by displaying trained and disciplined body. (2) Functionality is expressed through structural simplicity and temperance of decoration. High-tech textiles and fibers are favored in order to fit in comfortable bodily movement for the heavy exercises. (3) Sensuality, as an expression of indulgence of sexual pleasure, is expressed through bodily exposure. Lastly, (4) deconstruction, which means destroying existed boundaries of cultural categories, is shown as co-existence of design elements from different times and places, stereotypes and sensibilities. Virility and functionality are prominent characteristics expressed in sports uniforms and training costumes. Sensuality and deconstruction are shown in daily fashion and formal dress outside the sports field.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.69-84
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• 1986

The objective of this Paper was to identify the relationship between the fine arts, pop art and fashion in relation to its qualities, motifs, and techniques of graffiti and collage. The data of this study were collected from fashion magazines such as French Vogue and American Vogue from 1962 through 1970 and Elle from 1980, post cards and reports of costume exhibition in Victoria & Albert museum in London, and newspaper accounts and magazine accounts. The qualities of pop art were characterized as 1) Popular (designed for mass audience), 2) transient (short term solution), 3) expendable (easily forgotten), 4) low cost, 5) mass produced, 6) young (aimed at youth), 7) witty, 8) sexy and erotic, ana 9) big business. Pop art was rooted in urban environment. According to analysis of the data for this paper, these special aspects of that environment reflected on fashion in the 60's. Mary Quant, Zandra Rhodes, Y.S.L., Rudi Gernreich, Paco Rabanne, Pierre Cardin, Andre Courreges in the 60's and Castelbajac and Sprouse in the 80's showed Pop art dresses, mods fashion inspired by pop artists such as Hamilton, Donaldson, Allen Jones, Jasper Jones, Andy Wahol, and Keith Haring. New erotism of fashion was Produced by Y.S.L.'s see-through blouse, Courreges'a hipster pants, and Gernreich's bikinis which revealed the navel and the breast. T-shirts and dresses ornamented with Pop idols' faces, Pop graffitic motifs, and slogans, as a resistant to society, were begun to popular.

• 복식
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• 제57권4호
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• pp.9-17
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• 2007

Somatotype is human body shape and physique type which can be classified not only by the size, but also by the shape or posture of the body. Postural variations in the alignment of the back, shoulder, and neck can have an adverse effect on the fit of garments designed to hang from the shoulders. There have been some previous studies about the lateral upper torso by analyzing photographic measurements. In this study, 3D body scan images were used to classify the side somatotype of upper lateral method even though they are major data in the classification of upper torso. This study focused on following objective.; 1) To apply new and developing technology into the apparel industry analyzing 3D body scan images. 2) To classify upper laterla torso using the data through the new improver technology, 3D body scanner. 3) To propose basic materials for well fitted garments for each type of figure. The test subjects for this study were two hundreds nine female aged 19 years and up who were recruited in Cornell university body scan research team. Seventeen Variables(12 angles, 5 lengths) out of 3D body scan data were measured based on these landmarks and applied to analyze. The result of factor analysis indicated that 6 factors were extracted through factor analysis and orthogonal rotation by the method of Varimax and those factors comprise 62.5% of total variance. And the somatotype of upper body is classified into 3 types of figures according to cluster analysis; Bent forward posture, Straight posture, Swayback posture. Future study could be addressed about the somatotype of body by the age group based on the large database with wide variety of age.