• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.3_4
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• pp.539-547
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• 2002

Heungdukwang's(興德王) costume ordinance(834A.D.) is a very important written historical record because it reveals Tongil Shilla's(統-新羅) costume. And among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heungdukwang's(興德王) costume ordinance, from Pyosang(表裳), Naesang(內裳), we know they wore one skirt over another. But skirts appearing in visual records are wort in waist line or breast line, and when they wore skirts in breast line, there were shoulder belts or not. Also among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heungdukwang'a (興德王) costume ordinance, Yo( ) and Ban( ) seems to be connected with skirt. but it is not clear. So this study focuses on the history of wearing skirt in breast line and one skirt over another, shoulder belts of skirt, and relation among yo( ), Ban( ) and skirt. The results are as follows. First, wearing skirt in breast line is already appeared in Ancient Shilla's(新羅) clay figure, and wearing one skirt over another is also appeared in Sunhung tomb's mural painting. so it is not completely under the influence of Tang(唐). Second, the shoulder belts of skirt is for convenience of action, But, at that time, there is no shoulder belts of skirt in Tang(唐). Third, between Yo( ) and Ban( ), If Yo( ) is connected with skirt, it is a shoulder belts of skirt or waist of skirt. And Ban( ) is a ire of skirt.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.69-79
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to find the proper width of fabric which can bring high efficiency on productivity. We focus on the marking method by comparing and analyzing the marking efficiency of A-line skirt. This study employs 4 criteria to mark the A-line skirt, which are cutting method, angle, width, and direction, respectively. There can be 2 different cutting methods(fold pattern and add seam pattern at the front and back center line), and 2 different angles(warp angle and bias angle). Also, width of the fabric can be classified into 2 groups(110cm, 150cm), and marking direction can be grouped into 2(one direction marker and one direction per each size marker). These 4 criteria make 16($2^*2^*2^*2$) cases for this study. Main findings are follows. First, the skirt with folded at the center line had higher efficiency rate than the skirt with add seam at the center line. Second, the skirt with the 150cm width has higher efficiency rate than that of 110cm. Third, fixing the warp angle has higher efficiency rate than that of fixing the bias angle at the front and back center line. Finally, one direction per each size marker has much higher efficiency than the one direction marker.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.6
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• pp.140-149
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• 2013

The study aims to suggest new skirt designs through a modernistic application of the silhouette of Hanbok skirts. It also aims to promote the aesthetic beauty and excellence of Hanbok to the world by using Hanbok skirts that best express the beauty of Korea as motifs, and to promote a pride in Korean culture through a reinterpretation of Hanbok skirts. The study was focused on examining Hanbok skirts from the Three Kingdoms era to the Joseon Dynasty, and the skirts in each era were compared to western silhouettes to suggest design centering on the characteristics of each silhouette. As for the theoretical background, shapes were classified according to waist-grip, the width and length of a skirt, wrinkles and ornamental lines, before being compared to skirt silhouettes of western costume. As a result, it was found that Hanbok skirt silhouettes in the Three Kingdoms era were similar to the A-Line silhouette of western costume, the Empire silhouette of unified Silla, the H-Line silhouette of the Goryeo Dynasty, the Bell-Line silhouette of the Joseon Dynasty and the Bustle Style applied to ceremonial costume in the early Joseon Dynasty. The researcher suggested five skirt designs by applying the above-mentioned five silhouettes, confirming the research premise that Hanbok skirt silhouettes are as diversified as those found in western costume. Designs were suggested for each silhouette, and are expected to lead to the development of designs befitting future trends and concepts through detailed research and development on Hanbok skirt silhouettes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.123-143
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• 1994

The aim of this research analyze women's preference in types and formation of skirt lines by their ages and body shapes. The aim of this study is for women to select clothing which can cover their shortcomings and to present the practical and positive data about skirt design to clothing maker. The results of this research are summarized as followed : Tight skirt is the beest preferred and flare is the next. Narred silhouettes re preferred about th width of each kind of skirt, but as for the gored and flare skirts middle-width silhouettes are preferred. Preferred lengths of the skirts are different from ages; the middle like minilines, the thirties like miniline, the thirties and the forties natural line, and the fifties midiline, and according to body shapes, the skinny or standard shape like natural line and the fat midiline. All age prefer natural waist line, and twenties and the skinny like high waist line and belt compared to fifties and the fat. All ages like dart-treated skirt waist and wrinkle-decoration with narrow vertical lines or tuck-decoration with narrow horizontal line. White and blue are preferred colors of skirts in spring and summer, the skinny and the standard like blue, whereas the fat like black. All ages like soft materials and one-colored skirts without patterns Adult women like jipper to open waist of a skirt. Most of them like back positioned one, but fifties and the fat prefer side positioned ones.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.286-298
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to find the proper width of fabric which can bring high efficiency on productivity. We focus on the marking method by comparing and analyzing the marking efficiency of flare skirt. This study employs 4 criteria to mark the flare skirt, which are angle, location, width, and direction, respectively. There can be 3 different angles$(180^{\circ},\;270^{\circ},\;360^{\circ})$, and 2 different locations(the center line and the middle of the pattern) according to fixing of the warp line of the fabric. Also, width can be classified into 2 groups(110cm, 150cm), and marking direction can be grouped into 2(one direction marker and one direction per each size marker). These 4 criteria make $24(3{\times}2{\times}2{\times}2)$ cases for this study. Main findings are follows. Fist, the skirt with the 150cm width has higher efficiency rate than that of 110cm. Second, fixing the warp line at the center line has higher efficiency rate than that in the middle. Finally, per size marker has much higher efficiency than the just direction marker. In sum, we find that 150cm width with the center warp line and per size marker brings the highest efficiency rate.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.38-47
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of physical properties and grain line of fabrics on the drape properties of the flare skirt. Horizontal section overlap map was obtained by three dimensional Moire Topography, It was concluded drapability of the skirt obtained by the map can be used to determine the ease of the skirt. Grain line such as bias and lengthwise direction showed the difference of quality of the drape at the hem line; skirt made by bias direction showed evenly distributed flare and effective for the aesthetic point view. No difference was observed between cotton and polyester fabrics probably due to the similar characteristics of the fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.539-549
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• 1993

The purpose of this study was to find out the moving fitness and slit length of tight skirt in relation to its length & silhouette. Five kinds of length, micro mini, mini, natural line, medi and maxi, and two kinds of siihuette, slim & straight-a total of ten tight skirts-were investigated. Ten college students were chosen for this experiment. The moving fitness was tested by measuring the step length, step width and step angle in the case of walking on the flat and going up the stairway & bus stair. The slit length was tested by measuring the back slit length needed in the case of going up stairway & bus stair. Data were analyzed with use of SAS pakage. The statistics were based on average, standard diviation, two-way ANOVA, Pearson's correlation and multiple regression analysis. The main results were as follows. 1. There was significant difference in the moving fitness according to length & silhouette of tight skirt. The moving fitness of slim type was lower than that of straight type and the longer the skirt length was, the lower the moving fitness was. The significance appeared particularly in the case of going up the bus stair. 2. There was significant difference in the skirt length obove slit accorting to length & silhouette of tight skirt. The skirt length obove slit of slim type was shorter than that of straight type. The longer skirt length was, the longer it was from micro mini to natural line, that of medi skirt was shorter or a little longer than that of natural line skirt and there was little change from medi skirt to maxi skirt.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.175-186
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• 1993

The present study was designed to find out the construction conditions of tight skirt for sale in relation to its brand, target age and length. The 15 tight skirts each from 3 brand groups(designer character, national and minor brand) of 2 target age groups(youth and middle age) and the 15 tight skirts each from 3 skirt length groups(mini, natural line and maxi) of only the minor brand-a total of the 120 tight skirts on the market-were measured. The data were analyzed with use of SAS package. The statistics were based on frequency, percentage, average, standard deviation, one-way ANOVA, two-way ANOVA, Pearson's correlation and linear regression analysis. The main results were as follows. 1. There were significant differences in the construction conditions of tight skirt according to its brand and target age. There was a significant difference particurarly in the difference between hip girth and hem girth according to brand target age. The difference between hip girth and hem girth of designer's character brand skirt was larger than that of national brand & minor brand skirt, and that of skirt targeting the youth was larger than that of skirt targeting the middle aged. 2. There were significant difference particurarly in the differences in the construction conditions of tight skirt according to its length. There was a significant difference particurarly in the difference between hip girth and he girth according to skirt length, and that of maxi skirt was larger than that of mini & natural line skirt. There was a good correlation between skirt length and slit length and between skirt length and skirt length above the slit. The longer the skirt length was, the longer the slit length and the skirt length above the slit were.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.93-104
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• 1994

Nowadays computer technology is being applied in various areas of apparel design. In particular, since the task of pattern making is to be performed by a set of predefined drawing rules, the effect of computer application in pattern making will be significant, There have been a large number of studies on pattern making program. For instance, the previous studies have developed computer programs for pattern making of women's wear, men's wear, children's wear, Han-Bok, etc. Most of them have focused on the development of computer program for a particular kind of apparel only and, however, have disregarded the feasibility of developing a multi-purposed computer program so that is just can be modified to adopt for various styles. For example, by widening the hem-wide of the basic H-Line skirt and then connecting its waist line and widened hem-wide, we can draw the A-Line skirt. Therefore, we have developed a program which can make a pattern for the basic skirt and can mae, with a slight change of he program, other patterns for various style as well. The objective of this paper is to identify and organize modules which will be used for developing a general pattern making computer system. This general pattern making system is a computer program by which we can draw a variety of apparel styles. This system is restricted to skirt pattern making only. there presentation scheme used in organizing these modules is an AND-OR tree, the one being often used in representing a complex problem in artificial intelligence domain.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.893-907
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• 2001

The main purpose is to study the effects of princess lines on different body types and to disguise any imperfection by using diverse princess lines. We separated testers body shapes into specific body types, H, Y by applying both the direct and the indirect measurements. These designs were evaluated by using the point ranking system method, and then average scores were obtained from these evaluations. Following are the results of the study: 1 These are the resulting illusion effects when the shoulder width of the Princess line was fixed. When the Princess line originated from 1/3 point of the armhole, body types Y appeared to show narrow waist width. A-line silhouette appeared to display the narrowest shoulder width. When the Princess line originated from 2/3 point of the armhole, body types H and Y appeared to exhibit narrowest waist widths, and the A-line silhouette once again displayed the narrowest shoulder width. When the Princess line originated from 1/2 point of the armhole, body type H appeared to exhibit narrow width; and H-line silhouette displayed the narrowest shoulder width 2. When the Princess lines waist w'4th was fixed in order to study illusion effects of waist widths. In this experiment, locations of Princess lines and widths of the skirt were varied. When the waist width was fixed at 6.5 cm, For the H body type, the Princess line location of 1/3 point of the armhole in H-line silhouette design exhibited the narrowest waist width. For the Y body type in A-line silhouette design, the Princess line locations of 1/3 and 1/2 points of the armhole exhibited the narrowest waist width because it displayed the hourglass effect. When the waist width was fixed at 10 cm, H body type did not exhibit any significant differences between designs. For Y body type, A-line silhouette design with the Princess line origination point at 1/3 down the armhole exhibited the narrowest waist width. 3. The illusion effects of the hip were studied by fixating the width of the skirt and varying the locations of Princess line and waist widths. In H-line skirt silhouette designs, all two body types exhibited narrow hips when the Princess line origination points were at 1/3 and 1/2 way down the armhole. For A-line skirt silhouette, H body type exhibited narrow hips when narrow waist design with the Princess line originating from 1/2 point in the shoulder was shown. Y body type exhibited narrow hips when narrow waist design with the Princess line originating from 1/3 point of the armhole and 2/3 point of the shoulder. 4. With both waist and skirt widths fixed, all two body types exhibited taller and slender postures when the Princess line originated from the shoulder compare to the armhole.