• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.140-159
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• 1994

Heraldry, which originated from the culture of knights in the 12th century, came to be drawn on shields, and was inherited as a symbol of the family at the end of the 12th century and developed rapidly through the 13th and 14th century. Afterwards heraldry was in great vogue and used in the shields, clothes of men and women, armors, housings and flags. Therefore the citizen class as well as nobles and knights came to possess heraldry. In particular parti-color and impaled coat were accepted in the clothes, and served the dual purpose of status symbol and ornament in the 13th century. It can be said that the appearance of heraldry on the clothes was typical of the Middle Ages. The origin, generally accepted, was that the crusaders wore the surcots, also known as the cyclases, on the armors to prevent the powerful sun of Syria and dust of deserts, and to prevent the armors from rusting due to moisture. As the surcot was made of white linen or white silk till the beginning of the 13th century, knight's heraldry came to be put on the surcot in order to identify each corps. According as the coat of mail covering all the body was devised, the same heraldry attached on the shield seemed to appear on the clothes of surcot or jupon(afterwards pourpoint) in order to identify the status in the battlefield and tournament. Heraldry, a system of mark in the 12th century, was used as a symbol of authority of the upper class such as the Royal House, nobles and knights, and may have been mysterious instruments in the Milddle Ages. However, in the modern times of the 20th century heraldry has come to be a kind of symbol marks such as badges and banners symbolizing the hallmark of the goods of enterprises, organizations and groups. Heraldry, existing up to now, of the individuals as well as international organizations can be seen as a result of deep-rooted tradition for esthetic appreciation and symbolism for heraldry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.6
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• pp.89-107
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• 2000

Underwear has undertaken the auxiliary role of outwear also. Thus, as outwear has changed forming the characteristic mode in every period, underwear has changed endlessly, so that it may match the form and function of outwear, in accordance with the stream of period. In this study, this researcher examined hoop and petticoat which were used for widening the skirt which is female clothes with diverse names in every period. under one name which is farthingale, centering around the West and korea, from 16th century to 20th century(the first term). In addition, it examined by comparison the relevancy between to the history and change factor of underwear which was used for swelling the skirt in Korean clothes. The result to have studied on the history and change factor about the farthingale of West and Korea is as follows: This study found that the silhouette of women's clothing has a strong relationship with underwear. Also The result to compare the underskirt of the West with that of Korea is as follows : They has other character, but in 18th century, being compared the underskirt of the West with that of Korea, for the swelling of skirt, this study found that they had something in common with the underskirt of the West and Korea.

• Journal for History of Mathematics
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.1-21
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• 2007

We investigate the Gou Gu Shu(句股術) in Hong Jung Ha's Gu Il Jib(九一集) and Cho Tae Gu's Ju Su Gwan Gyun(籌書管見) published in the early 18th century. Using a structural approach and Tien Yuan Shu(天元術), Hong has obtained the most advanced results on the subject in Asia. Using Cho's result influenced by the western mathematics introduced in the middle of the 17th century, we study a process of a theoretical approach in Chosun mathematics in the period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.60-73
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• 2007

This Study is on the excavated clothing from lady Lee' tomb in spring 2003, on Chungjoo Province. These are significant as the 18th century's real clothing, we examine the real Jegories as possible and the results shows there are two group in sizes. we regard the large Jegori is for the dead as a shroud, the small one is for daily. it shows that Jegori for the dead is about 1.3 larger than a daily one, we can see Jegori for the dead was going to be large from the 18th century, and it's needlework was not fine than daily one, but the Color and the material on should look like as daily in this time, and the motif is cloud pattern, we can see two changes in daily Jegori that one thing is to be short and narrow, the other is to be curve at the corner of collar(Gitmuri), the corner of edge(supco), the below line of sleeve(baerae) in the daily Jegori.

• Journal for History of Mathematics
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.1-9
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• 2012

After disastrous foreign invasions in 1592 and 1636, Chosun lost most of the traditional mathematical works and needed to revive its mathematics. The new calendar system, ShiXianLi(時憲曆, 1645), was brought into Chosun in the same year. In order to understand the system, Chosun imported books related to western mathematics. For the traditional mathematics, Kim Si Jin(金始振, 1618-1667) republished SuanXue QiMeng(算學啓蒙, 1299) in 1660. We discuss the works by two great mathematicians of early 18th century, Cho Tae Gu(趙泰耉, 1660-1723) and Hong Jung Ha(洪正夏, 1684-?) and then conclude that Cho's JuSeoGwanGyun(籌 書管見) and Hong's GuIlJib(九一集) became a real breakthrough for the second half of the history of Chosun mathematics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.139-166
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• 1998

This dissertation is to help understanding about the emergence of active children's clothes in the latter part of the 18th century in England. In previous ages children had not been look-ed upon as children, but as incomplete and in-ferior men and women, the costume of children had not been distinguishable from that of their elders. The early eighteenth-century chil-d could not play in comfort because they dressed like their parents. But in the third quarther of the eighteenth century children became free from their con-comfortable and became active. English chil-dren's clothes was prevailing even in Europe as well. In the background of this liberation, there were many enlightened ideas, such as philosophers of enlightenment, doctors, writers, educators. Among these John Locke and Jean Jacque Rousseau criticized openly about rampant fashion which was distorting the body by corset and hoop. Rousseau was the one who wrote$\boxDr$Emile$\boxUl$and played the most important role to free children from an old fashioned idea, and emphasized to bring up children by the natural process of mental and physical development as human beings are a part of nature. Fashion reflects politic, economic, social, ideology, culture of the days and these factor function to create fashion which shows“Time Spirit”.Children's clothes, like those of their parents, follow the fashion, but with a difference, the form of which varies with the attitude to the child. Thus this dissertation was to study in relation with the background of the times in the latter part of 18th century in England and Rousseau's Naturalism in connection with the emergence of active children's clothes. The result is that diffusion of the idea of freedom and equality, the growth of bourgeoisie, the development of clothing and tex-tile industry have influenced to the emergence of active children's clothes. Also a great deal of middle and high class parents devoted to their children's education and was influenced by Rousseau's Naturalism. Specially the bourgeoisie who made their fortune by their own effort were eager to educate their achievement and business by their children through education. This factor influenced to the children's clothes as well.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.55 no.2
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• pp.146-165
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to identify differences in the formative characteristics and system of Jobok by comparing the three relics Ui, Sang, and Daedae, which comprised Jeon-Sik's Jobok, with the data in the literature and five excavated Jobok relics, Sin Kyung-yu, Kwon-Woo, Hwasan-Gun, Milchang-Gun, and Lee Ik-jeong, from the 17th and 18th centuries. Jeon-Sik'sJobok was designated as a Gyeongbuk tangible cultural heritage, Sangju JeonSik Jobok and Crafts, in 2021. The three components of Jeon-Sik's Jobok are valuable as historical data since they are the oldest relics confirming colors. Regrettably, the edging fabric of the Ui made of red twill was mostly lost, with only traces remaining. Based on records, it was presumed that the edging fabric was black. It was confirmed that white decorative lines were yet to be used. In Jeon Sik's Sang, only the three front widths and one rear width remain, but the shape of the four rear widths can be inferred, and the creases were held only at the waist. Eighteenth-century Sang was connected at intervals at the end of the waist. Seventeenth-century Sang was connected with a slight overlapping of the rear Sang below the front Sang; therefore, it is assumed that Jeon Sik's Sang was also connected by overlapping the rear by more or less than 5cm below the front. After Hwasan-gun, the Sang was first made using black lines, then white lines were inserted, and, finally, it was pleated from the waist to the hem. The Daedae made the Yo and the Sin by folding the corners to form a 冂 shape with a single long band. The white Ju(紬) and the green yumunsa were used for the Daedae and the edges. This matches the color of the Daedae seen in the Jobok portraits of Milchang-gun, Lee Ik-jeong, and Jeong Hwi-ryang from the 18th century. In the 17th century, the Daedae made the Yo and the Sin by folding a long band like the Daedae of Jeon-Sik. After the 18th century, the Yo and the Sin were made separately and connected. To tie the Daedae to the waist, thin straps were attached at both ends. The relics of Jeon-Sik can be evaluated as reflecting the 17th-century Jobok system in terms of color and shape. Furthermore, it can be said that they are important historical data complementing the insufficient or inaccurate records of the Gukjoolyeui-seolye and Gyeongguk-daejeon.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.3 s.162
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• pp.451-462
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is 1) to find out the dominant clothing ornaments in Europe in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries, 2) to examine the changes of such clothing details as neckline and collar, sleeve and stomacher from 16th to 18th century 3) and to classify the ornaments of these 3 centuries according to Yin and Yang's traits. An analysis was conducted of 405 pieces of art out of 10 books of costume history. Of these pieces, 121 were from the Renaissance era, 107 were Baraque and 177 were Rococo. The analysis found that the distinctive ornaments in 16th century were ruff, slash, chain and girdle decoration. The distinctive ornaments of Baroque period were tassel, fringe, loop and binding. The Rococo period were distinguished by falbala, sash belt and fabric necklace. With regard to the changes over the 3 centuries necklines changed from high to lower. Sleeves became shorter. Stomacher which was long and sharp became wider and shorter. As to the Yin and Yang's traits there was also an evolution. Renaissance costume with Yang's style was decorated mostly Yang influenced ornaments. Baroque clothing was a mixed of Yin and Yang, as were the ornaments. By Rococo both clothing and ornaments reflected Yin's traits.

• Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
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• v.43 no.6
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• pp.858-872
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• 2008

This study examined the meteorological disaster of Jeju Island in Chosun Dynasty based on historical documents, and analyzed how its government and Jeju Islanders responded to this. Recording cases of abnormal weather days of Jeju Island in Chosun Dynasty were most in 17th Century, and then in 18th Century, 16th Century, 15th Century, and 19th Century in order. For the type of meteorological disaster, storm damage was most serious, and then flood disaster, drought disaster, and snow damage were in order. For the region, Jejumok was mostly damaged from storm and flood, and Daejeonghyeon was mostly from drought. Once meteorological disaster occurred, it was a common thing that it continued with famine. The Chosun government relieved Jeju Islanders by moving the grains of mainland into Jeju Island, and for this, installed Galdujin warehouse, Naripo warehouse, and Jemin warehouse. Also, it tried to resolve chronic famine by moving Jeju people into mainland such as Pyeong'an-do. Corresponding to severe weather, the farmers of Jeju Island implemented agricultural methods such as Dapjeon, Baryeong, molding, and wind-breaking; and the seamen conducted unique arts of navigation such as Hwanjeon, and gravel shipment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.5
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• pp.1-17
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• 2014

This study explores women's Wonsam in the 18th century. Wonsam was women's wedding dress, one of the representative ceremonial garments of Korea. Wonsam began to appear in the excavated clothes around the 18th century, and we can find drawings and records of the period in Yongjae Collections by Kim-kunhaeng. The form of Wonsam after the 17th and 18th centuries showed the changes in which Seop and Mu disappeared in Baeja form of Danryoung(團領) and the right and left symmetry and side slits were highlighted. The change also included wide and long sleeves and Sakdong(색동) colorful strips on the sleeves), Hansam ornaments, and the use of the belt, which means the change of Baeja composition into our traditional costume of the age. Through the Colletions, we notice that women wore Wonsam in different colors and with varying hair accessories according to the nature of ceremony, the social status, and marital status. Concerning Wonsam, the color of clothing for the dead woman was green(喪禮), while that for marriage ceremony was red(婚禮). Wonsam with the light color was for ceremonial clothing(祭禮). The women who served in the palace wore green Wonsam and Geodumi, while a bride at the marriage ceremony wore red Wonsam or a red long-sleeved robe with Jokduri. At the ceremony of Hyeongunorye, women wore Wonsam with a wig. the dead woman wore Yemou.