• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제15권6호
• /
• pp.874-885
• /
• 2013

This study analyzes the visage in fashion illustration based on the deconstructed visage of Francis Bacon's paintings as well as analyzes fashion illustration works since 2000. The deconstructed visages in Francis Bacon's paintings are classified as blurring, elimination, distortion and division. The expressive methods and meanings in fashion illustration (according to categorization) are as follow. Blurring shows an ambiguous visage organ by the sweeping of the brush, removal of a boundary among the visage, body and clothes, gradation of organic line like visage shapes, stretching of the a plat combined to visage and fragmentation of visage. It represents an uncertainty of the fashion theme and image interpretation, impossibility of figure by ambiguity, fantastic effect and the induction of the uncanny. Elimination shows the background color's painting of a photo-montage, overlap of a cutting of visage's part and background of a plat, elimination of the visage and the elimination of eyes, nose or lips. It represents a weakened identity, the reinforcement of anonymity, creation of a violent image, and uncanny unfamiliarity. Distortion shows a distorted visage by free drawing, and unconscious drawing line, fluid digital body, combination of an unconscious curve, and an eccentric combination of the accidental. It represents the relief of specialty about realistic existence, hypothetical immateriality and fantasy. Division shows overlapped visages with different angles, the weird combination of a plural visage and different species and a plural breakaway of direction, and the position of several organs. It represents motion by power's trace, non-territory of species, ambiguity and uncertainty and the uncanny.

• 복식
• /
• 제51권6호
• /
• pp.85-99
• /
• 2001

본 연구에서는 유니섹스 영 캐주얼웨어의 국내브랜드를 중심으로 고찰한 후 그 디자인 특성에 대해 살펴보고 한 시대의 패션현상을 규명하고자 하는데 그 목적이 있다. 연구방법은 국내 패션시장의 유니섹스 영 캐주얼웨어에 대한 디자인 특성을 살펴보기 위해 신세대의 하위문화와 국내브랜드 시장조사를 통한 유니섹스 영 캐주얼웨어의 동향에 대한 일반적 고찰을 한 후 영 캐주얼웨어의 브랜드를 디자인의 차이에 따라 분류하고, 그 디자인 특성을 컬러, 소재, 스타일, 아이템별로 구분하여 분석하였다. '00 S/S, '00 F/W의 유니섹스 영 캐주얼웨어 브랜드를 중심으로 고찰해 보고자 패션 정보잡지와 인터넷의 패션사이트를 검색하였다. 유니섹스 영 캐주얼웨어의 브랜드별 시장조사를 통한 그 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 영상매체, 대중음악. 스포츠, 스타문화로 나타난 신세대의 하위문화는 탈중심성, 탈국경화, 의미의 해체 등의 포스트모던적 문화현상이며. 유니섹스 영 캐주얼웨어는 자유와 개성을 추구하는 신세대의 라이프 스타일을 잘 반영한 하위문화의 복식양식으로서 현대 패션에 영향을 미치고 있다. 2. 기성복업체는 신세대가 가지고 있는 새로운 욕구와 감성을 겨냥한 브랜드를 개발하고 판매촉진을 위해 전력을 다하는 과정에서 신세대의 하위문화를 반영한 유니섹스 영 캐주얼웨어의 일반적인 복식양식을 형성하였다. 3. 국내시장의 유니섹스 영 캐주얼웨어는 디자인 특성에 따라 컴포터블 캐주얼웨어, 스포츠 캐주얼웨어, 힙합 캐주얼웨어로 구분된다.

• 디지털융복합연구
• /
• 제18권12호
• /
• pp.549-563
• /
• 2020

본 연구는 들뢰즈의 신체 미학을 바탕으로 탈영토화의 관점에서 분석하고 현대 패션디자인의 작품 속에 내재되어있는 시각화특징이 히스테리, 형상화. 신체분해, 동물-되기 등 4가지 특성으로 신체 개조, 즉 패션조형화, 예술화 됨을 심층적으로 검토하였다. 첫째, 히스테리는 패션 디자인에서 의상의 변형과 과장이 주는 강렬한 시각적인 효과를 보여준다. 둘째, 형상화가 패션에서의 표현은 가면이 얼굴을 제거하거나 의상구조 등은 얼굴을 희미하게 해주는 두 가지 분야다. 이는 신원의 약화와 의상 및 신체를 돋보이게 한다. 셋째, 신체 분화는 의상의 구조 해체와 재구성을 의미하며 새로운 사고방식을 표현한다. 넷째, 동물-되기는 동물 그림의 활용과 사람과 동물 사이의 이질적인 연결에 따른 형체 돌연변이를 보여줌으로써 신체를 다시 생각할 수 있는 가능성을 보여준다.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제8권4호
• /
• pp.33-44
• /
• 2004

In this study, based on the postmodern feminism were investigated in the non-fashion areas of painting, advertising and fashion areas. And, fashion illustrations were analyzed visually in the aspect of the essentialism and deconstructivism that constitute the postmodern feminism. In addition, it was examined how women images were expressed in fashion illustrations that reflected the postmodern feministic ideas. The research results first, in fashion illustrations were the essen tialistic women images were grouped in the opening of women bodies and actively emphasize. the opening of women bodies were expressed bodies the fetishistic, ecstatic images, actively emphasize features were expressed the sexual, and realistic images. Secondly, and fashion illustrations the deconstructivistic women images were grouped androgynous features, genderous features, the distorted feminine gender features, complex features. androgynous features were expressed the powerful, grotesque, humorous, androgynous image, that genderous features of immature, boyish image, that the distorted feminine gender features of simple, ethnic, techno-cyber image, that complex features of complex images.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제6권4호
• /
• pp.62-82
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the Avant-garde's aesthetic values and expressoinal characteristic, and to find out(analysis) the design characteristic of Avant garde fashion since 1995. Expressoinal characteristics of Avant garde with the anti-aesthetic, radically pursuing newness, and open mind, are revealed dynamism, hostile innovation, and experimentalism. Futuristic images expressed in dynamism represent space style, body conscious style, cyborg style, kinetic style, and primitive style. And deconstructional images related to hostile innovation show punk style, grunge style, humor style, and abstractive style. Also surreal images related to experimentalism hold erotic style, depasemant style, deformation style, and collage style. The proper usage of newness offers the escape, the vividness, and the humour from the fatigue of the life and so, it is expected to offer the chance of transfering the active individuals and societies directly or indirectly By analyzing the instances for the images of avant-garde fashion since 1995, the contribution about the expectation of the design trends of the present and future is expected.

• 복식
• /
• 제58권10호
• /
• pp.123-134
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine the postmodern characteristics in global fashion advertising. This analysis of postmodern print campaign strategies will increase the understanding of global fashion consumer and assist in establishing global advertising strategies for domestic fashion brands. 2006 A/W and 2007 S/S magazine campaigns for 190 fashion luxury brands were are collected, which were uploaded on the WGSN website. All advertising campaigns were analyzed in terms of postmodern features by four fashion professionals. As a result, major findings are as follows; First, advertising model stereotype was deconstructed. Besides young celebrities, ad models such as real people and old or childish celebrities were cast. Second, expression technique was deconstructed. Chromatic harmony was broadened to include black and white advertising, additive and subtractive color mixing. Innovative layout techniques such as collage were used. And also narrative structure was deconstructed. Third, diverse issues such as environmental message, globalization, fantasy, feminism, everyday life were expressed as advertisement appeals.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제12권2호
• /
• pp.100-116
• /
• 2008

This study aims to analyze the characteristics of deconstruction-ism expressed in the fashion of Alexander McQueen. The method and contents of this study are as follows. The three large categories for analysis are indeterminacy, decentralization, and intertextuality. The indeterminacy of meaning is divided into unstructured and unorganized factors in fashion, while decentralization can be categorized into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, inter-textuality is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Materials for analysis were chosen from a total of 616 designs from the website, www.firstview.com, which carries McQueen's collection from 2000 S/S through 2007 F/W. My analysis qualitatively evaluates the frequency of each category and the characteristics of design. The result of this study is as followed. First, the avant-garde facets of inter-textuality are most prominent. In particular, McQueen has introduced retro fashion and ethnic factors of the third world, not to copy them but to create hybrid designs by using pastiches and mixing fashion styles. Moreover, he has enjoyed using two fabrics of different texture in order to inflict a shock and contrast, thus enriching his fashion. Second, the indeterminacy of meaning is the second most frequently shown facet of McQueen's fashion design. McQueen has employed unstructured expression techniques, which dismantle harmony and balance, the basic rule of design, and has presented unorganized images free from basic forms of design. He has made a new attempt to acknowledge clothing as an expressive artwork by allowing clothes to take a complete form when a person actually wears them. Third, the aspects of decentralization were also shown in McQueen's design. His trans-gender clothing dissolves the traditional division of men and women and adopts a mixed gender expression. Furthermore, he has even tried to express a fourth gender by connecting the human with machine or animal or by connecting the material with the non-material.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제27권3호
• /
• pp.222-238
• /
• 2019

This study is aimed at applying the philosophical concept of "$diff{\acute{e}}rance$" to contemporary men's fashion design, which could effectively show the shift in thinking. For the study method, the author examined the theoretical background of deconstruction and prepared the standard of analysis by organizing the concept of "$diff{\acute{e}}rance$," which exists at the center of philosophy. This study selected the three most popular brands: Maison Margiela, Comme des Garcons, and Yohji Yamamoto. The results are as follows. First, there is expression of perpetual reservation emphasizing time. This includes texture, patchworks, hems with ladder, and exposure of seam that expresses the trace of time flow and delayed delivery of immediate meaning, and the expression creates delay between major and minor and leads to consistent role exchange. Second, the trace of blank that emphasizes the space gives a visual sense of weight on spares with the intentionally granted space, as well as the space that is the trace of trace and creates a sense of depth through the direction of empty space. Third, the space created in the process of wearing cloth is visualized, the structure of clothing is deconstructed, and the movement from the process recomposes the shape of space and expands the definition that enables expansion of time and space. Fourth, the undetermined relationship expresses the border of time and space visually and deconstructs time and space. The approaches are mostly constructive, demonstrating an avant-garde form of clothes-wearing to show the non-form or imbalance condition.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제31권6호
• /
• pp.720-737
• /
• 2023

This study aims to merge Picasso's expressive elements and deconstructive fashion's formative traits, proposing an upcycle fashion design that fuses artistic and philoso-phical aspects. The analysis of Picasso's Cubism identified qualities like liberating revolution, fluidity of vision, geometric reducibility, complex symbolism, and creative imitation. The analysis of Derrida's deconstructionism revealed expressive traits: uncertainty, intertextuality, différance, and dis-de phenomenon. An upscale fashion design was developed based on six Picasso works featuring women. The design was created using the fashion design software CLO 3D and integrated clothing waste and scrap fabrics as materials.The results are as follows. First, upcycle fashion was viewed from a new perspective based on Picasso and Derrida's values. This perspective suggested creating better ethical values by upholding environmental protection in novel ways that overcome limitations rather than destroy existing values indiscriminately. Second, upcycle fashion design methodologies were derived from various perspectives utilizing formative features of Picasso's works and specific expressive features of deconstructed fashion. Third, the direction of mitigating waste and pollution from clothing production and transportation was revealed by making clothes in a virtual space using the CLO 3D program. This study contributed to obtaining various methods for developing upcycle fashion designs using own methods of Picasso and Derrida to diversify the approaches of upcycling, which is relatively stagnant in disassembling.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제23권1호
• /
• pp.145-160
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to review the concept and thinking structure of deconstruction theoretically and thereupon, analyze the visual beauty and wearable comfort of the clothing and further, discuss the aesthetic characteristics and values of the decentering phenomenon in the 21st century fashion. Deconstruction provides for an cognitive framework whereby we could comprehensively review the difficult-to-understand and imprudent creativity unravelling in the name of the post-modernism as well as the ambiguous visual beauty and wearable comfort of our contemporary fashion. In particular, deconstruction refuses such concepts involving the relationship between the conventional clothing and its components as order, symmetry, balance, harmony, perfection and simplicity and instead, attaches some sense of value to such relatively inferior concepts as disorder, asymmetry, unbalance, disharmony, imperfection and complexity, and thus, reflects them in the modes of aesthetic representations to create new aesthetics and expand the expressive potential.