• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.443-456
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• 1992

For a linear double shelf bottom topography as in the Yellow Sea, the dispersion relation of coastally trapped waves is derived for the general case Including high-frequency and short waves and for the case of low-frequency and long waves. With linear bottom topography, the governing equation is Bessel's equation for the latter case but Hummer's equation for the former case. Hypergeometric Functions, which are the solutions of Hummer's equation, are derived and converted to various special functions for the limiting cases. On a double shelf topography, the divergence effects of horizontal flow are important for the wave dynamics, irrespective of cross-shelf dimensions, while on a single shelf they are usually neglected when the cross-shelf dimension is much smaller than the Rossby deformation radius. The divergence effect allows the existence of Kelvin wave and reduces the phase speeds of continental shelf waves. Finally, the frictionless eigenfunctions are proved to be orthogonal.

• Water for future
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.73-83
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• 1994

The unproper development of the nearshore zone can enhance the diffusion of pollutant in the nearshore zone resulting in unbalanced sediment budget of beach which causes alteration of beach topography. Therefore, it is required to predict the effects of the envirnmental change quantitatively. In this paper, the depth-averaged and time-averaged energy balance equation is selected to acount for the wave transformation such as refraction, shoaling effect, the surf zone energy disipation, wave breaking index and bore, due to wave breaking in the shore region.(Numerical solutions are obtained by a finite difference method, ADI and Upwind. For the calculation of the wave-induced current, the unsteady nonlinear depth-averaged and time-averaged governing equation is derived based on the continuity and momentum equation for imcompressible fluid.) Numerical solutions are obtained by finite difference method considering influences of factors such as lateral mixing coefficient, bed shear stress, wave direction angle, wave steepness, wave period and bottom slope. The model is applied to the computation of wave transformation, wave-induced current and variation of mean water leel on a uniformly sloping beach.

• 한국해양학회지
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.26-35
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• 1990

Sound velocities and attenuation coefficients of marine surface sediments were calculated from insitu acoustic experiments on 4 nearshore areas off Pohang, Pusan Yeosu, and Kunsan around the Korean Peninsula. The relationship between these values and physical properties of sediments was examined and attenuation mechanism was analysed using the estimated gas content. Sound velocities and attenuation coefficients ranging from 1470 to 1616 m/sec and 0.0565 to 0.6604 dB/kHz-m, respectively, are well related to sediment types. The attenuation coefficient is maximum in coarse silts, and the sound velocity increases with density. The gas content estimated less than 8 ppm increases with the decreasing sediment grain size. When the sediment size is greater than fine sand, sound attenuation is mostly due to friction losses, and probably negligible viscous loss remains unchanged with the varying physical properties of sediments. The maximum attenuation in coarse silts result from both friction loss and cohesion of finer sediments between the contacts of silt grains. The cohesion begins to be the dominant dissipative process with decreasing grain size from medium and fine silts.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2002.11a
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• pp.139-145
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• 2002

The flow zone through propeller jets are used in evaluating the environmental and constructional effects of navigation on the waterway. It relies on the characteristics of ships and water depth. A numerical model using the momentum theory of the propeller and Shield's diagram was developed in a restricted waterway. Equations for discharge are presented based on thrust coefficients and propeller speed and are the most accurate means of defining discharge. Approximate methods for discharge are developed based on applied ship's power. Equations for discharge are as a function of applied power, propeller diameter, and ship speed. Water depth of the waterway and draft of the shop are also necessary for the calculation of the grain size of the initial motion. The velocity distribution of discharge from the propeller was simulated by the Gaussian normal distribution function. The shear velocity and shear stress were from the Sternberg's formula. Case studies to show the influence of significant factors on sediment movement induced by the ship's propeller at the channel bottom are presented.

• 한국해양학회지
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.41-50
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• 1982

We present theoretical models for the unstedy transports driven by the time-varying wind stress in horizontally unbounded shallow seas of an uniform depth. We derive linearized transport equations that inchude the acceleration, the Coriolis firce, the wind stress and the bottom friction. The steady transport in a shallow sea is different from the classical Ekman transport because of a presence of non-negligible bottom fricttttion. The transient reansport and an inertial oscillation of which frequency of rotation is the same as the frequency of the wind stress forcing. The transprt associated with a wind stress of which direction changes linearlywith time is decribed by a superpoeition so a free inertial oscillation with a pweiod of one inertial day, The theoretical models of the transports are useful in understanding the time-varying currents and the transports of nutrients in shallow seas.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.164-174
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• 2021

The study examines the shearing and crushing characteristics of land-derived subaqueous granular materials in a gravel-bed river. A series of large-sized ring shear tests were performed to examine the effect of shear time and shear velocity on the shear stress characteristics of aquarium gravels with a 6-mm mean grain size. Three different shear velocities (i.e., 0.01, 0.1, and 1 mm/sec) were applied to measure the shear stress under the drained (long-term shearing) and undrained (short-term shearing) conditions. Different initial shear velocities, i.e., 0.01→0.1→1 mm/sec and 0.1→0.01→1 mm/sec, were considered in this study. The test results show that the grain crushing effect is significant regardless of drainage conditions. The shear stress of coarse-grained materials is influenced by initial shear velocities, regardless of the drainage conditions. In particular, particle breakage increases as grain size increases. The shearing time and initial shear velocity are the primary influencing factors determining the shear stress of gravels. The granular materials may be broken easily into particles through frictional resistance, such as abrasion, interlocking and fracture due to the particle-particle interaction, resulting in the high mobility of granular materials in a subaqueous environment.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.108-115
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• 1991

This paper aims at the elucidation of the characteristics of longshore current profile after wave breaking. Wave breakers are always accompanied by complex turbulent process, wave energy losess occur and the mean water level also varies due to the gradient of radiation stress. These with other factors result in the development of longshore currents. Longshore currents have relations to the alongshore sand transport and to the diffusion of contaminants in nearshore region, thus the understanding and elucidation of them are very important from the engineering point of view. Using the calculated results, the factors such as lateral mixing cofficients, bed shear stress. wave angle. wave steepness and bottom slope. which are influencing the longshore current profile. are examined. Also, by comparing the results of longshore currents with the experimental data obtained by other investigators, the procedure proposed in the present study is shown to be valid.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2002.05a
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• pp.257-262
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• 2002

Numerical model introduced in this study combines wave refraction-diffraction, breaking, bottom friction, lateral mixing, and critical shear stress and three sub-models for simulating waves, currents, and bottom change were briefly discussed. Simulations of beach processes and harbor sedimentation were also described at the coast neighboring Bangpo Harbor, Anmyundo, Chungnam, where the area has suffered from accumulation of drifting sand in a small fishing harbor with a wide tidal range. We also made model test for the case of a narrow tidal range at Nakdong river's estuary area to understand the effect of water level variation on the littoral drift. Simulations are conducted in terms of incident wave direction and tidal level. Characteristics of wave transformation, nearshore current, sediment transport, and bottom change are shown and analyzed. We found from the simulation that the tidal level impact to the sediment transport is very important and we should apply the numerical model with different water level to analyze sediment transport mechanism correctly. Although the model study gave reasonable description of beach processes and harbor sedimentation mechanism, it is necessary to collect lots of field observation data, including waves, tides and bottom materials, etc. for better prediction.

• Water for future
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.183-192
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• 1988

The previous two-dimensional non-linear tidal model of the East China Sea(Choi, 1980) has been further refined to resolve the flow over the ocntinental shelf in more detail. The mesh resolution of the present finite-difference grid system used is 4 minutes latitude by 5 minutes longitude over the entire shelf. The developed fine grid two-dimensional model was utilized to reproduce the $M_2$ tide and $M_4$ tide for the East China Sea contnental shelf. There is general agreement between the model results and the current observation made in the Eastern Yellow Sea, which supports the calculated tidal regime over the shelf. Some preliminary results on maximum bottom stress and tidally-induced residual current were also examined and discussed.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.1-6
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• 1975

The sea noise of moving trawl net was recorded by an underwater tape recorder which was set wireless, and was analyzed by a sound level meter and an octave-band analyzer. The frequency distribution of sea noise of the moving otter trawl net ranged from DC to 5000 Hz, and the dominant frequency zone ranged from 500 Hz to 700 Hz, and the maximum sound pressure is about 22 dB at the otter trawl net. The main sound source of the sea noise from the moving trawl net was found to be sea noise due to the resistance of the ground rope against the sea bottom.