• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.42 no.1
• /
• pp.29-35
• /
• 2016

RS White (resorcinol bis-ethylhexanoate) is used in cosmetics as a skin whitening agent. In this study, we studied the possibility of nano-emulsion formation containing whitening agent, RS White, with different types of emulsifying agents. With Tween 80, 60, HCO 60 and 40 as a hydrophilic surfactants and Span 80 as ahydrophilic surfactant, nano-emulsions were formed at appropriate concentrations, but they were not formed in the system using the Myrj 52, Montanov L, and Tegocare 450 with Span 80. The diameter of nano-emulsion sphere was smaller than 100 nm. The emulsion showed a translucent appearance and maintained stability in stability evaluation with time. In vitro skin permeation experiments showed that amounts of skin permeated nano-emulsion for 24 h were $70.84{\mu}g/cm^2$ and those of O/W emulsion were $28.97{\mu}g/cm^2$. In conclusion, a stable nano-emulsion containing the resorcinol bis-ethylhexanoate is effective for potential efficacy system as an efficient delivery system of the functional materials into skin.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
• /
• v.60 no.1
• /
• pp.61-68
• /
• 2017

In this study, extracts from Caryopteris incana Miq. (C. incana) were investigated to assess anti-oxidation, skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle activity. The total phenolic compounds of C. incana extracts with water and 80 % ethanol showed 7.69 and 12.50 mg/g respectively. Antioxidation activity of C. incana extracts was measured by using 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2-azinobis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS), protection factor (PF), and Thiobarbituric acid reactive substances (TBARs). At concentration of $200{\mu}g/mL$, the DPPH free radical scavenging activity of water and ethanol extracts were 84 and 92 %, respectively. ABTS radical scavenging activity of water and ethanol extracts were both at approximately 99 %. Antioxidant PF of water and ethanol extracts were 1.56 PF and 1.67 PF, respectively. The TBARs of water and ethanol extracts were 62 and 82 %, respectively. In anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening activity, 80 % ethanol extract had more outstanding effect than water extract at concentration of $200{\mu}g/mL$. The levels of elastase and collagenase inhibitory activity related with anti-wrinkle were 58 and 89 % in ethanol extract. The tyrosinase inhibitory activity related with skin-whitening was 13 % in ethanol extract. The astringent effect of ethanol extract was 50 %. Throughout the results, C. incana extracts showed an excellent effect on anti-oxidation, skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle activity. Therefore, C. incana extracts can be used as a new material for cosmetics.

• Journal of Life Science
• /
• v.32 no.5
• /
• pp.355-361
• /
• 2022

Melanin pigments are the main cause of skin color. They are produced in melanocytes and then transferred to keratinocytes, which eventually gives the skin surface a variety of colors. Although many skin-lightening or depigmenting agents have been developed, the demand for materials to reduce pig- mentation is still increasing. Here, we tried to find materials for skin-lightening or depigmentation using natural compounds and found that mistletoe (Viscum album var. coloratum) extracts (ME) had an inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity. As a result, ME significantly reduced pigmentation in human primary melanocytes. In addition, a promoter reporter assay revealed that ME inhibited the transcription of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), melanophilin (MLPH), tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TRP-2), and tyrosinase (TYR) genes in HM3KO melanoma cells. In addition, ME decreased the protein level for pigmentation-related molecules, such as TYR and TRP-1. Furthermore, it markedly inhibited the melanogenesis of zebrafish embryos, an in vivo evaluation model for pigmentation. To elucidate the action mechanism of ME, we investigated its effects on intracellular signaling. Eventually, the ME dramatically decreased the phosphorylation of the cAMP responsive element binding protein (CREB), AKT, and ERK. The data suggest that ME may inhibit the melanogenesis pathway by regulating the signaling pathway related to pigmentation. Taken together, these data propose that ME can be developed as a depigmenting or skin-lightening agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.26 no.1
• /
• pp.149-162
• /
• 2000

Coenzyme Q10 is found in all tissues including skin and it is the well-known coenzyme for mitochondrial enzymes. The electron and proton transfer functions of the quinone ring are of fundamental importance for the oxidative phosphorylation pathway to generate energy in the cells. Coenzyme Q10 has been studied as a potent antioxidant molecule in the skin. It is involved in the skin's response to UVR irradiation. The concentration of this antioxidant in UVR exposed skin is higher than in non-exposed skin. However, recent studies have also shown that coenzyme Q10 is one of the first antioxidants to be depleted when skin is UVR-irradiated. This indicates that coenzyme Q10 is primarily involved in defense mechanisms of the skin. Therefore, we questioned whether coenzyme Q10 shows reulatory effect of melanogenesis. Here we report that coenzyme Q10 inhibits melanin neosynthesis of normal human melanocytes grown in culture, and lightens UVB-induced hyperpigmentation of the guinea pig skin in vivo. We treated human melanocytes with 0.05mM to 0.5mM of coenzyme Q10 for a total of two days. This inhibited melanin neosynthesis of cultured human melanocytes dose-dependently. The inhibitory effect of coenzyme Q10 was as effective as kojic acid or vitamin C on cultured human melanocytes. CoQ10 didn't have direct inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity in in vitro tyrosine hydroxylase activity To further clarify the effect of coenzyme Q10 on the melanogenesis, we established UVB-induced hyperpigmentation on the shaved backs of brownish guinea pigs. The UVB intensity was 500mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ and the total energy dose was 1,500 mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$. The animals were exposed to UVB radiation one times a week for three consecutive weeks. Coenzyme Q10, kojic acid, Arbutin, vitamin C(1% in vehicle) or vehicle alone as a control were then topically applied daily to the hyperpigmented areas twelve times per week far four successive weeks. The lightening effect was evaluated by visual scoring, chromameter and immunohistochemistry. Coenzyme Q10 had lightening effect on the UVB-induced hyperpigmentation without any other side effects, whereas another compounds showed weak lightening efficacies. Therefore, these results suggest that coenzyme Q10 may be useful for solving physiological hyperpigmenting problems for cosmetic purposes.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.33 no.1 s.60
• /
• pp.23-28
• /
• 2007

Ascorbic acid (vitamin C, AsA) has been known as a strong reducing agent and is supposed to retard the synthesis of melanin pigment. A main problem that arose in using vitamin C in cosmetic formulation was its poor stability and low skin permeability, which result in low lightening efficacy in clinical trials. In this study, iontophoretic gel patch with flexible thin layer battery was employed in order to enhance skin permeation of vitamin c derivative (ascorbyl glucoside, AsAG) and to increase its lightening efficacy. in vitro iontophoretic skin permeation and stability of AsAG, safety and clinical lightening efficacy of iontophoretic patch containing 2% AsAG solution were examined. A optimun current of ionthophoretic patch for korean women was 0.1 mA, considering the skin permeability and skin irritation of consumers. We suggest that iontophoretic gel patch could be a safe system for enhancing the skin permeation of AsAG and lightning efficacy.

• Journal of Life Science
• /
• v.32 no.2
• /
• pp.101-107
• /
• 2022

In this research, the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antiaging, and skin whitening properties of pulp and seed extracts of passion fruit were studied. The result of the primary skin irritation test using a skin-attached patch determined the skin irritation index to be 0.00 for the passion fruit extract. In addition, RAW 264.7 macrophages produce NO by stimulation of lipopolysaccharides, and the application of extracts to this resulted in significantly lower NOs, confirming the excellent anti-inflammatory properties of passion fruit extracts. The 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl test further confirmed that the passion fruit extract exhibits a good 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonate radical scavenging ability of 5.11% and strong antioxidant properties. The presence of collagen type I in the skin is a measure of aging and various skin diseases. The results obtained from the analysis of the activity of human procollagen I alpha 1 confirmed that the passion fruit extract reduces the synthesis of procollagen. In addition, the skin whitening property of the passion fruit extract was confirmed by the melanin inhibition test, and a sample was obtained that contained more than 2% of arbutin, a whitening agent approved by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety, which is generally present in the form of a white powder and is used as a functional ingredient. This confirms that the whitening efficacy of the passion fruit extract obtained from nature contributes to the development of functional raw materials for cosmetics and food.

• Journal of Life Science
• /
• v.31 no.11
• /
• pp.1019-1027
• /
• 2021

There are a lot of efforts to develop new compounds having skin whitening effect from natural products. Sparassis crispa is a medicinal mushroom containing more than 40% β-glucan, which exhibits anticancer and immunostimulating effects. The aim of this study was to assess the availability of β-glucan extracted from cauliflower mushroom S. crispa as a skin whitener through the evaluation of inhibitory effects of melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity and their mechanisms. B16F1 cells were treated with S. crispa β-glucan (10, 100, and 1,000 ㎍/ml, respectively) and α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH), simultaneously. Content of melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity were determined. The expressions levels of tyrosinase, tyrosinase related protein-1 (TRP-1), TRP-2 and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) were also measured by western blotting. Treatment with 10, 100 and 1,000 ㎍/ml S. crispa β-glucan and 200 nM α-MSH significantly decreased melanin synthesis by 13.9%, 18.7% and 39.5%, respectively, and tyrosinase activity by 15.6%, 26.9% and 43.2%, respectively, compared to the α-MSH alone group. In addition, S. crispa β-glucan inhibited expressions of tyrosinase, TRP-1, TRP-2 and MITF induced by α-MSH. These results indicated that S. crispa β-glucan inhibited MITF expression, thereby reducing tyrosinase expression and inhibiting melanin production in B16F1 melanoma cells. Therefore, S. crispa β-glucan might be available as a skin whitener.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
• /
• v.38 no.1
• /
• pp.107-117
• /
• 2021

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data for the development of UV protection products using natural materials. The research method is investigation and analyzation of the current status of the domestic and foreign industries, natural material research trends, and patent status of skin care-related sunscreen. As the result of the study, the U.S. market for sunscreen is the largest one, accounting for about 21% of the world, and the Chinese market is rapidly growing. The top four major types of functional cosmetics in Korea are complex functional products, followed by wrinkle improvement, sunscreen and whitening, and both the global and domestic markets continue to grow continuously. Over the past decade, research trends in natural sunscreen materials have shown that Scutellaria baicalensis, Humulus lupulus L., licorice, Finger root, Green tea, lespedeza cuneata extracts are effective, and in addition, they are also effective in photo-aging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, whitening, and wrinkle improvement. The patent registration status is on the rise and the ingredients were secured from plants and seaweeds. As the conclusion of this research, It is expected that natural UV protection material will be able to be used as multi-functional cosmetics material by developing safe and proven natural materials in line with future global trends.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.38 no.3
• /
• pp.247-254
• /
• 2012

Ramalin (${\gamma}$-glutamyl-N'-(2-hydroxyphenyl)hydrazide) isolated from the Antarctic lichen Ramalina terebrata has been shown to have strong antioxidant activities in the previous study. To investigate additional activities of ramalin, we studied the effects of ramalin on melanogenesis in melan-a cells, a non-tumorigenic melanocyte cell line. At a non-cytotoxic concentration, ramalin dramatically decreased melanin synthesis in melan-a cells in a dose-dependent manner, which was more potent than arbutin, a well-known tyrosinase inhibitor. Ramalin inhibited cell-free tyrosinase activity directly and intracellular tyrosinase activity as well. Its inhibitory mechanisms on melanin production were further assessed, and we found that ramalin significantly decreased the protein levels of melanogenic enzymes such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and tyrosinase-related protein 2 (TRP-2). However, the mRNA levels of these enzymes were not altered. In a clinical study, application of 0.2 % ramalin on human skin significantly improved the degree of skin brightness after 3 weeks. In conclusion, ramalin has strong anti-melanogenic activity that is exerted both by the direct inhibition of tyrosinase activity and by down-regulation of melanogenic proteins. Furthermore, ramalin showed skin brightening effect in a clinical study. Collectively, these results suggest that ramalin may be a useful inhibitor for melanogenesis in skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.45 no.1
• /
• pp.37-47
• /
• 2019

Recently, due to the increase in skin diseases caused by particulate matter, endocrine disruptor and environmental changes, the trend of development of cosmetic materials has been shifting to the more safe and effective ingredients based on natural materials rather than existing synthetic compounds like steroids and antihistamines. This study aimed to develop a new natural cosmetic materials using oriental herbs such as Eucommiae cortex, Alpinia oxyphylla Miquel and Bombyx batryticatus. First, DPPH assay was performed to examine the antioxidative activity of the herbal extract (Mix) and 98.8% DPPH radical scavenging activity was confirmed at $400{\mu}g/mL$ concentration of it. In order to confirm the whitening efficacy of oriental herbal extracts(mix), the amount of melanin synthesized after stimulation of ${\alpha}-MSH$ with B16F10 cells was measured. Results showed that it was decreased to 27.1% comparing with the only ${\alpha}-MSH$ treated group, which confirmed the whitening efficacy. Also, both nitric oxide(NO) production and iNOS and COX-2 expression were significantly reduced in RAW264.7 macrophages activated by LPS in the presence of the extracts(Mix). The mRNA expression of the inflammatory cytokines such as $IL-1{\alpha}$, $IL-1{\beta}$, IL-6, and $TNF-{\alpha}$ was also analyzed to confirm the inhibition effect of the extracts on inflammation. Finally, to confirm the enhancement of skin barrier function, the expression of claudin 1 gene, a tight junction protein, was observed using human keratinocyte HaCaT cells and increased as concentration dependent manner. From these results, it is concluded that the oriental herbal extracts(Mix) containing Eucommiae cortex, Alpinia oxyphylla Miquel and Bombyx batryticatus is effective for antioxidant, anti-inflammation, skin whitening, and skin barrier and thus could be applied as a new natural cosmetic material.