• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.103-119
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• 2011

This study set out to analyze the solid shapes of knit flared skirts, which are best represented in a 3-dimensional shape for all knit skirts, according to the seamed and seamless production method and to estimate the silhouettes of knit flared skirts based on the results. It also aimed to help with the introduction and spread of seamless weaving by revising and supplementing potential problems and provide findings that would be put to active use as basic data, thus contributing to the development of original knitwear and offering fundamental materials for the development of the knitting industry. A number of experimental knit flared skirts were made according to skirt angle ($90^{\circ}$ and $180^{\circ}$), gauge (7G, 12G, and 15G), and grain (bias, wale, and radial), including 12 kinds of seamed knit flared skirts and 6 kinds of seamless knit flared skirts. Using a three-dimensional shape measurement system, the investigator measured the cross-sectional shapes of their hemlines. The SPSS 12 Version program was used for statistical processing, and descriptive statistics such as mean and standard deviation were used to compare the seamed and seamless knit flared skirts in the measurements (measurement items) of their solid shapes according to the width, gauges, and grain directions. The central grain direction of seamless knit flared skirts was in a radial form and even hemlines, thus presenting a beautiful appearance and solid shape. The 3-dimensional shapes show that seamless knit flared skirts are superior to seamed ones. The research findings are expected to open a door for Korea's knitting industry to quickly respond to small quantity batch production and additional orders.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.499-511
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• 2009

As the demand of the consumer for high-sense clothing, relation with materials is becoming important even in clothing construction. Especially, the cutting angle of materials is becoming an crucial element in the formation of silhouette, and drape of Hem line, of skirts. Accordingly, in this study, Hem line shapes between real clothing and 3D virtual clothing of "i-Designer" were analyzed by manufacturing semi-flare skirts of polyester 100% according to a cutting angle, and the results are as follows. As a result of comparison of silhouette between the real clothing and the virtual clothing, the real and the virtual have a similar feeling regardless of a cutting angle. In case of drape shapes, both the front and the lateral side were represented in almost similar shapes. The back side, however, the real and the virtual showed a great difference in case of grain direction. And in the whole silhouette, the real and the virtual were represented similarly. It could be known that with regard to Hem-line drape shapes between the real clothing and the virtual according to a cutting angle, the real clothing is represented in a location farther from the body than the virtual clothing and, the location or number of node was similarly showed in the real and the virtual.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.465-475
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• 2010

For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. Samples differed from each other by skirt angles($90^{\circ}$, $180^{\circ}$), gauges(7G, 12G, 15G), and grain directions(bias direction, wale direction, and radial direction). After measuring the mechanical properties of various gauges on the seamless knitting machine, I compared shape of the knitted flare skirt through subjective evaluation on appearances. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, Duncan-test, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The subjective evaluation on appearances of knitted flare skirts showed the following: In case of $90^{\circ}$ skirt, the seamless skirt showed a much higher score in every gauge expect that of the cut and sew 12G, and silhouette of 15G wale direction. In case of the $180^{\circ}$ skirt, the seamless type showed a much higher score in every item over the cut and sew expect the silhouette part of 7G wale direction.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.91-101
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to develop semantic differential scales which are necessary to evaluate visual image and effect of flare skirt. As a result of the first survey of 362 female college students, the most effective factors for shape of flare skirt are silhouette, volume of flare, and skirt length. Based on this result, we made flare skirt simulation for visual evaluation with using I-Designer program. 4 kinds of volume of flare($90^{\circ},\;180^{\circ},\;270^{\circ},\;360^{\circ}$) and 3 kinds of skirt length(48cm, 58cm, 68cm) are combined as variables for flare skirt of visual evaluation. For the second survey of 362 female college students, we asked to write suggested adjectives freely. As a result, we could draw out 210 adjectives. 'Feminine' was most frequently used word for flare skirt, and then, 'vivid', 'rhythmic', 'cute', 'soft', 'fat', and 'comfortable' in this order. With considering frequently used words in the preceding study, we selected 41 adjectives. Antonyms were selected from the resulted frequency of this study and preceding study, and the rest of words were found from dictionary. From these process, we developed semantic differential scales for visual image and effect of flare skirt.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.10
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• pp.65-77
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the correlation between the density, the Count and the width of cross section in 2D function through comparison the difference of simulated fabrics based on the various yarns, and to compare the 3D effect by Lay Mapping of diverse fabrics. The method of research is to weave the eight fabrics composed of cotton, linen, worsted, slender yarn, loop, $m{\acute{e}}lange$, woolen, and yarn twist with Hi-Tex program, and to practice 3D mapping with Hi-Print program. As a mapping object, the flared skirt which is a basic costume item is selected. As a result, the thickness of yarn in CAD system was fixed by the width of cross section rather than Count, especially by the width of core section not including the fluff section. The type of yarn such as cotton yarn, linen yarn, and worsted had effect on the shape of texture, but had few interrelations with dimension. In the case of 3D mapping, the textural characteristic and the dimension were presented precisely, whereas there were several limitations. First, the thickness of tissue has not been represented. Secondly, the effect of texture such as fuzzy look, loop was not expressed on the skirt outline including sideline and hemline. Thirdly, the difference of silhouette was not distinct. The common point in 2D and 3D operations is that the representation of texture is relatively accurate and that is difficult to measure and manifest of thickness, the side. For more professional digitalizing in fashion industry, above all in the domain of 3D, it must be supplement the subdivided and differentiated mapping process according to the texture, deviating from the existing analog-based organization which has to designate the form and silhouette suitable for tissue.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.895-906
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• 2000

The study planned to testify the accuracy of the 3D scanner through analyzing the human body measurement method and the evaluation of flare skirt with 3D scanner. The results obtained from this study were as follows; First, the results of measurement for the dress form and human body by 3D scanner were more accurate than one or two dimensional measurement method. Second, from the results of the scan for the flare skirts as worn the human body, we could obtain very accurate horizontal section map. Third, in the clothing ergonomics viewpoint, the accuracy of the 3D scanner was very excellent and its utility was higher than that of the moir photography method. Therefore, the 3D scanner is very useful for the human body measurement and the wearing evaluation. In a nutshell, this study illustrates that we have to develop a program of automatic human body measurement system which will enhance the application of the 3D scanner.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.286-298
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to find the proper width of fabric which can bring high efficiency on productivity. We focus on the marking method by comparing and analyzing the marking efficiency of flare skirt. This study employs 4 criteria to mark the flare skirt, which are angle, location, width, and direction, respectively. There can be 3 different angles$(180^{\circ},\;270^{\circ},\;360^{\circ})$, and 2 different locations(the center line and the middle of the pattern) according to fixing of the warp line of the fabric. Also, width can be classified into 2 groups(110cm, 150cm), and marking direction can be grouped into 2(one direction marker and one direction per each size marker). These 4 criteria make $24(3{\times}2{\times}2{\times}2)$ cases for this study. Main findings are follows. Fist, the skirt with the 150cm width has higher efficiency rate than that of 110cm. Second, fixing the warp line at the center line has higher efficiency rate than that in the middle. Finally, per size marker has much higher efficiency than the just direction marker. In sum, we find that 150cm width with the center warp line and per size marker brings the highest efficiency rate.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.613-625
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• 2015

This research was conducted to provide basic data to improve expressivity required for virtual clothing to replace actual clothing. For the experiment, 6 materials were selected and 12(2 kinds of length) actual flared skirts were made. At the same time, simulations were carried out on OptiTex Runway 12.0 for 36(12 kinds of skirts $\times$ KES, FTU, KES weight/10) kinds of virtual flared skirts, which were applied with the measured property values (thickness, weight, bending, shear, friction, and stretch). Also, the study compared and analyzed the wearing images, silhouette overlapping images, and skirt length measurements of the actual and virtual skirts put on a dummy. As a result, the actual skirts showed clear distinction for each material. In contrast, virtual 1 and 2 expressed fabric 3 in the most similar way, but could not recreate the uniform, soft, and natural flare shape of the actual skirts in general. Virtual 3 formed natural flares as those of the actual skirts, and expressed fabric 1, 5, and 6 in a similar way. However, virtual 3 had too much volume and barely showed any distinction for each material. All of virtual 1, 2, and 3 expressed different flare shapes on the front and back sides of the skirt similarly to the actual skirts, and had a good visual expression for the color and texture of the materials. However, they could not effectively express the elasticity and fabric sagging in the bias direction.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.660-667
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to modify a Flared Skirt for women according to the somatotype of lower body. The subjects for the wear test were 3 students, who were in $mean{\pm}1{\sigma}$ each somatotype. The results of this study are as follows: First, the Flared Skirt pattern was modified according to each type. The front waist line rising measurement proposed for type 1 and type 2 were 0.5cm, because of lower front silhouette with waist shape. The back waist line rising measurement proposed for type 2 was 1cm and type 3 was 0.5cm, because of lower back shape with hip. Second, the wave-height of nodes were regular at front and back in type 1. Also, the wave-height of nodes were evenly distributed side and center. The variation ratio of wave-height of back nodes were lower than existing pattern in type 2 and type 3. It means the variation ratio of wave-height of back nodes were regular in modification pattern. Altogether, modification patterns were more regular and lower than existing pattern in the number of nodes, the distribution ratio of nodes, the wave-height of node, the variation ratio of wave height of nodes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.989-996
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to provide the basic knowledge for the pattern development of a flared skirt. Two flat pattern (FP) methods, the concentric circle method and the corrected concentric circle method, and a draping were used for pattern making. Using these patterns, skirts were made with lengthwise grain in the centerline. The influence of pattern making method on the silhouette of the flared skirt was evaluated by the hemlines formed at the skirt worn in a dress form. Moreover, the combined influence of pattern making method and cutting direction on the silhouette of the flared skirt was examined with the draping pattern (DP) skirt and a FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline. The DP skirt had more uniform nodes and formed a stable wave form than the FP skirts throughout the whole hemlines. The number of nodes was reduced with lining in the two FP skirts, whereas the number of nodes was not changed in the DP skirt. The unit wave form of all the skirts by three patterns showed long loop form, and the slope angles of the unit wave form of the two FP skirts were higher than that of the DP skirt. The silhouette of the flared skirt was highly influenced by the shape of the waist circumference line in patterns. The DP skirt with lengthwise grain in the centerline showed good silhouette with uniform nodes and high marking efficiency, compared to the FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline.