• 복식
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• 제20권
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• pp.169-178
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• 1993

• 복식
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• 제53권5호
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• pp.125-139
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• 2003

The character of Plain Weaved Silks at the end of the Joseon Period from Takjijunjeol(탁지준절) are as follows. 1. Plain Weaved Silks recorded in Takjijunjeol(탁지준절) are Ju(주) 22 types, Cho(초) 13 types and Gyeon(견) 3 types. This is same as previous research where Ju(주) and Cho(초) were subdivided and diversified at the end of Joseon Period, but Gyeon(견) gradually disappeared, leaving only Ju(주) and Cho(초) 2. Plain weaved silks whose character have been examined are Gajiju(개지주), Nujuju(노주주), Nobangju(노방주), Bangsaju(방사주), Simnyangju(십량주), Hapsaju(합사주), Suju(수주), Toju(토주), Sukcho(숙초), Ryeoncho(연초), Gungcho(궁초), Byeol$$\mu$goyeongcho(별문고영초), Hujigyeon(후지견), 3. According to the differences in values and value scales written in Takjijunjeol(탁지준절), Ju(주) had various kinds of silks and Ju(주) are classified by qualities into two groups, the higher qualified group A or the lower qualified group B. On the contrary, Cho(초) and Gyeon(견) had only a few kinds, not as many as Ju(주), but all were high quality. Among them the most valuable plain weaved silks were Seoyang$$\mu$ju(서양문주), Hapsaju(합사주), Byeol$$\mu$goyeongcho(별문고영초). 4. According to Pobaekcheok(포백척) of Takjijunjeol(탁지준절) which shows real sizes, Ju(주) had various length and widths, but Cho(초) had one unified length and width.

• 복식
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• 제57권8호
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• pp.37-47
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics of the tomb of King Muryeong at the Baekje(百濟) Period. First, there were silk fabrics such as compound woven silk(錦), twill damask(綾), complex gause(羅) and plain weaved silk(平絹). All of compound woven silk(錦) are the warp-faced compound tabby(經錦) of plain weave and the density is various from high to low one. The twill damask(綾) was a variation of twill damask weaved with a six strand warp thread. The complex gause(羅) made patterns as a set of 2 strand, 4 strand, 6 strand and 8 strand warp threads are weaved alternately with the weft. There were three kinds of plain weaved silk(平絹). The first was weaved densely without space between strands. The second was weaved with a small space between strands. And the third was weaved with a two strand warp thread, having a space between the threads. On the other hand, several pieces of well preserved ramie cloth were excavated. Of the, the densest one has the density of 125 strand/inch for the warp and the weft. In addition, strings made of flax thread were found. This suggests that flax fabrics may be found additionally if the hardened lumps of fabrics are resolved and analyzed. Other materials discovered include knits, knotted strings, embroideries, threads and floss. Pieces considered knits and knotted strings occupy a large part of fabrics excavated from King Muryeong's Tomb, and in particular knotted strings show various knotting methods. In addition, embroideries such as chain stitch and button hole stitch are clearly observed. What is more, there are silk threads and hemp threads, which are presumed to have been used for dangling ornaments such as Yeongrak(瓔珞) and beads or for sewing. Besides, floss was found between fabrics.

• 복식
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• 제59권3호
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• pp.82-95
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• 2009

The kind and the use of the fabrics for crown manufacture in the Baekje period has been studied by characterizing the imprinted fabrics on the crowns and the diadem ornaments from the old tomb. The contact region with the skin inside of the crown and the region between the bark of white birch and the gilt bronze openwork plates contained fabrics. The fabrics used in the gilt-bronze crown were all plain weave silk except that of Yongwonri tomb where loosely woven thin tabby was used. There have been 4-types of iron framed diadem of the Baekje, which comprise the inverted triangle-shaped diadem only with iron frame, the diadem with gold plate ornament in the iron frame, the diadem decorated with mica plate and gold plate, and the diadem with silver ornament in the iron frame. The fabrics used in the triangle shaped iron frame diadem include plain weave silk, irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, complex silk gauze, twill weave on plain ground, and warp-faced compound weave. The iron frames were wrapped with the fabrics from one layer up to three layers, and the iron diadem was covered with one later of loosely woven textile such as irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, and complex silk gauze. But in case of decorating the iron diadem with gold Plate ornaments, multiple layers of fabric were used to sustain the weight of the ornaments. The fabrics in the iron diadem frame were sewed with running stitch, overedge stitch or hemming stitch, diagonal hemming stitch, half back stitch), and overcast stitch.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

This study analyzed the characteristics of Korean traditional plain weave excavated from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. To do this, this study classified the Korean traditional plain weave into fiber types(cotton, hemp & ramie, plain weaved silk), analyzed and compared the thickness, twist type of yarns and density by times. First, in characteristics of cotton, the average and maximum density of Joseon Dynasty were higher than those of Goryeo, twist type was mainly s-twist and the density of warp was higher than that of weft. Second, the maximum density of hemp & ramie was found in era of Three Kingdoms of Korea. In common characteristics of hemp & ramie, twist type was mainly s-twist(sometimes non-twist) to the Three Kingdoms of Korea and was changed into non-twist from the Goryeo. The density of warp was higher than that of weft in common. Generally, the average density of ramie was higher than that of hemp. Third, in the characteristics of plain weaved silk, twist type was mainly non-twist(sometimes s and z-twist) from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. Warp-faced ribbed tabby was excavated in Goryeo, the average density of warp-faced ribbed tabby was higher than that of other fiber types plain weave. Generally, in all fiber types, the density of warp was higher than that of weft.

• 복식
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• 제53권4호
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• pp.113-129
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• 2003

This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.

• 복식
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• 제57권1호
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• pp.93-104
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics culture of Baekje Period by analyzing the fabrics pieces at a inner part of the It-bronze shoes found at the tomb of King Mu-ryeong in 1971 AD. The analysis methods of the fabrics pieces are a photographing of fabrics pieces surface by VMS, Digital camera(Nikon Coolpix 995) and the analysis of samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. It is assumed this fabrics pieces are the inner shoes, which consisted of compound woven silk at outward, some of tabby and a hemp at inward and the braids for decoration, of the gilt-bronze shoes. The features are as follows. 1. All of compound woven silk are the warp-faced compound tabby of plain fabrics and the density is various from high to low one. Compound woven silk which is attached the gilt-bronze shoes of the tomb of King Mu-ryeong weaves in high density by a thick thread. The fibers material of compound woven silk prove to be a silk by the analysis of wrap samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. 2. Tabby are excavated under the condition which attached on reverse side of compound woven silk. Those ran classify two types. First, the fine weaving by high density of wrap and weft. Second, the loose warp weaving with one warp and some of weft. 3. Hemp is almost ramie by SEM analysis and the density is different. Ramie which supposed to be attached Guem has the very low density. In addition to, Ramie pieces, excavated in condition and weaved finely, proved the conspicuous weaving skill in Baekje period. 4. Various kinds of braid are found and these ones classifies by fiber material and entwining way. Two types out of these are the one of silk thread, decorates the upper, middle parts of compound woven silk shoes and the other of hemp thread, decorates the lower parts.

• 복식
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• 제62권7호
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• pp.41-53
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• 2012

Hwangnamdaechong Tomb (The 98th tomb in Hwangnam-dong), one of the royal tombs located around the area of royal tomb of King Michu in Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju, is currently designated as Historic Site No. 40. It is assumed that Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is a royal tomb of the early 5th century. This study aims to examine the fabric relics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb and currently housed in Gyeongju National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage. The types of fabrics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb include plain silk, warp-faced compound woven silk, and hemp cloth. Most of these fabrics are adhered to metal products that became rusty. Plain silk found in Hwangnamdaechong Tomb can be divided into four types by its weaving method. Geum excavated from Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is typical Gyeong Geum that uses colored warp for its base and pattern. It is plain Gyeong Geum that the binding weft and warp is plain woven. Although there are a lot of Gyeong Geum fabrics whose colors are hard to define due to yellowing after long years, there are still many fabrics whose color such as purple, red, blue, and green can be identified. As literatures have shown that p cloth as well as silk were frequently woven during Silla dynasty, tremendous amount of hemp cloth was excavated. Most of the hemp cloth has S-twist in the warp and 8-12 seung degree of delicacy.

• 한국보육지원학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.1-22
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• 2011

본 연구의 목적은 초등학생의 성에 따른 자아개념과 진로발달 간 차이, 관계, 및 영향력을 비교하는 것이다. 본 연구의 대상은 초등학생 259명(남학생 133명과 여학생 126명)이다. 본 연구를 위해 활용한 측정도구는 정종진(1996)의 자아개념 검사도구와 안창규 안현의(2006)의 Holland 진로발달 검사도구이다. 수집된 자료는 SPSS 12.0 통계 프로그램을 활용하여 분석하였다. 본 연구 결과를 분석하면: (1) 정서적 자아에서 남학생(M=54.857, SD=7.593)이 여학생(M=52.302, SD=8.908)보다 높았다. (2) (1) 직업적성평견에서 여학생(M=42.200, SD=5.918)이 남학생(M=37.372, SD=7.600)보다 높았다. (2) 자율성에서 남학생(M=36.544, SD=5.544)이 여학생(M=35.008, SD=5.118) 보다 높았다. (3) 자아개념은 남학생(r=.175~.761)과 여학생(r=.199~.667)의 진로발달과 정적상관관계를 가졌다. (4) (1) 학업적 자아는 남학생(5.6%~56.3%)과 여학생(8.4%~48.7%)의 진로발달에 영향을 미쳤다. (2) 사회적 자아는 남학생(2.6%~5.9%)과 여학생(2.7%~4.3%)의 진로발달에 영향을 미쳤다. (3) 정서적 자아는 남학생(1.9%~37.0%)과 여학생의(11.2%) 진로발달에 영향을 미쳤다. (4) 신체적 자아는 남 여학생의 진로발달에 영향을 미치지 않았다. 이상의 결과를 통해 초등학생의 자아개념이 진로발달에 영향을 미친다는 것을 알 수 있었다.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제29권
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• pp.1-32
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• 2023

국립중앙박물관이 소장하고 있는 필자미상회혼례도(筆者未詳回婚禮圖)(덕수6375)는 회혼례의 장면을 그린 다섯 폭의 화첩이다. 회혼례는 부부의 혼인 60년을 기념하여 혼례식을 다시 행하며 주변의 축하를 받는 기념행사로, 이 화첩에는 전안례, 교배례, 헌수례, 접빈, 중뢰연의 장면을 기록하였는데 인물과 건축물, 여러 가지 기물 등을 섬세한 필치로 세밀하게 묘사한 회화 자료이다. 제작 기법 연구를 위해 현미경, 적외선, 엑스선 조사와 함께 초분광영상분석이 사용되었다. 비가시영역에 대하여 밑그림 확인, 색상에 따라 사용된 안료와 염료를 구별하고자 하였다. 엑스선형광분석으로 안료의 성분을, 자외선-가시광선분광분석으로 염료의 종류를 판별하였다. 현미경 조사를 통해 확인된 회혼례도에 사용된 직물의 재료는 섬유의 꼬임이 거의 없는 생견사이며 평직으로 제직된 평견직물로 확인되었다. 초분광영상분석과 엑스선형광분석, 자외선-가시광선분광분석으로 백색은 연백, 흑색은 먹으로 확인되었 다. 적색은 주토, 진사, 진사와 연단 혼합, 갈색은 주토 및 유기 염료, 황색은 등황을 사용한 것을 알 수 있었다. 녹색은 쪽, 석록, 크롬그린과 황화바륨, 청색은 석청, 회청, 쪽으로 확인되었다. 자색은 쪽과 연지충 혼합으로 추정되었고 금색은 금분을 사용한 것으로 나타났다. 초분광영상에서 보존처리 영역을 식별하여 손상부분과 보존처리부분 등을 구분할 수 있었다.