• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제13권7호
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• pp.131-140
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• 2013

여성복에 있어서 09/10년 시즌에 가장 주목할 만한 특징은 파워 숄더 룩이다. 파워 숄더 룩은 단순히 패션니스타들에서만이 아니라 당당히 스트리트 패션의 하나로 자리 잡았으며 파워 숄더 룩의 50%이상을 차지하는 재킷이 여성복의 핵심 아이템의 하나로 부활하면서 재킷의 어깨 각도는 0도에서 30도 이상까지 다양하게 나타난다. 다양한 어깨 각도 중 10도, 15도, 20도의 형태가 70%이상을 차지하고 있으며 패턴의 형태는 몸판의 어깨선을 자연스럽게 올리고 확장한 어깨변형 패턴, 어깨선과 함께 소매산 부분을 절개한 소매산 변형 패턴, 몸판과 소매가 연결된 패턴이 주를 이루고 있다. 파워 숄더 패턴 전개는 어깨 각도가 높아질수록 각이 시작되는 점이 목옆점에 가깝게 하고 어깨끝점이 확장되어야 소매의 외관형태가 편안하고 피트성이 좋아진다. 어깨 변형의 경우 앞뒤 진동선의 시작점인 어깨점과 소매산의 정점 부분의 선이 완만하게 이어지도록 S라인형태를 유지하는 것이 가장 중요하며 소매산의 ease분량이 일반 재킷 소매보다 많아야 파워 숄더 실루엣이 자연스럽게 연출된다. 소매변형 패턴은 중심쪽 소매의 소매산 높이는 기본소매 소매산높이의 1.5cm를 외곽 소매분량으로 처리한 것을 고려하여 소매산 높이를 설정하고 어깨 각이 커질수록 외곽소매의 소매산 폭을 크게 함으로서 소매의 어깨점이 목옆점 방향으로 휘지 않고 각이 선 파워 숄더가 완성된다. 소매변형과 소매와 몸판연결 패턴의 경우 어깨점과 상완이 연결되는 부분에 충분한 여유가 필요하며 어깨각도도 다른 형태에 비해 상대적으로 낮아 보인다. 이와 같이 파워 숄더 재킷 패턴은 패턴 제작시 디자인적인 요소를 충분히 감안한 패턴 설계와 함께 소매의 달림선 위치, 어깨너비, 어개 높이 확장량, 소매통의 여유량 등을 고려하여 제작하는 것이 바람직하다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.59-71
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• 2011

As an exaggerated-shoulder becomes a growing trend women's clothing, the crescent shaped sleeve with parallel style lines in the arm hole is a highly used women's sleeve pattern. This study develops and provides an applicable method for making the crescent shaped power shoulder sleeve. An efficient basic method for making the 2 piece crescent shaped sleeve was developed and the sensory appearance test was carried out with experimental clothes. There are two principles for making the crescent shaped sleeve: having a style line in the sleeve and pasting part of the cut arm hole of the bodice to the sleeve. The latter would be more convenient for a 2 piece sleeve, mostly used for jackets. The crescent shaped sleeve used in power shoulder jackets should set the shoulder angle as you wish to extend and raise the shoulder point of the bodice and sleeve to the same height. For a stronger power shoulder image, a 3 piece sleeve has a better appearance. Also, the height of the shoulder has to be enhanced with a shoulder pad for a more stable sleeve.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.617-625
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• 2016

In women's clothing the shoulders are distorted and exaggerated. Consequently, the wearers' bodies are transformed and interpreted according to modern standards. We therefore refer to this aspect of women's clothing as the power shoulder. This study aims to analyze the differences in sensibility images on variations in the shoulder shape of power shoulder jackets. Nine samples were examined that involved combinations of three variations of the shoulder height and three variations of the shoulder width. The data was evaluated by 123 fashion design majors. Four factors were selected: attractiveness, personality, activity, and self-respect. Among these factors, attractiveness is the most important. The study results indicated that changes in shoulder height acted as a major effect that had an independent influence on all four factors. In contrast, changes in shoulder width acted as a major effect that had an independent influence on attractiveness, personality, and activity but not on self-respect. It also had an influence on the interaction effect of attractiveness, personality, activity, and self-respect. We anticipate that this study will help individual customers select clothing that is suitable for their preference and body shape because it is now possible for them to estimate images of power shoulder jackets.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권3호
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• pp.388-405
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• 2021

This study classifies the compositional methods of power shoulder jackets from 1980 to the present. It analyzes the relevance of jacket details according to how the power shoulder changes and its compositional methods by era. The research subdivides shoulder compositional techniques into seven, based on shoulder variation, sleeve variation, and the body and sleeve combination. The researcher investigates the frequency and trends of composing shoulders and analyzes details pertaining to the silhouette, jacket length, collar shape, and front closure. The most common method of shoulder composition is an angular shoulder variation. The others are a rounded shoulder variation, puffed sleeve, sleeve variation using pattern incision, raglan and kimono sleeves, and a shoulder variation that expanded the angle and width. The frequency differs slightly for each era. The relationship between shoulder compositional methods and details of power shoulder jackets is statistically significant, showing period-related differences. The homogeneity analysis results reveal that the shoulder composition of power shoulder jackets, the times, and details fall into distinct groups. This analysis shows that the silhouette, length, collar, and front closure of the power shoulder jacket differ depending on the power shoulder's compositional methods. Moreover, the shape of the power shoulder jacket is distinctly different. One can use this data to help develop the power shoulder jacket design by reflecting the details of shoulder compositional methods and changing trends over time.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.315-324
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• 2022

This study aims to verify the sewing technology and the expression of the virtual garment program by comparing the appearance similarity between the real and the virtual power shoulder jacket. To this end, the H and the X silhouettes of the power shoulder jacket were selected as the reference designs. After making the reference designs into real jackets by applying the human body dimensions of women in their twenties, virtual avatars and jackets were produced using CLO 3D programs. The results showed that the H-type with only expanded shoulders and less design variation had a high similarity between the reference photo and real garment, the real and virtual garment, and the reference photo and virtual garment. The power shoulder jacket of the reference picture was well reproduced in the real and virtual garments. Conversely, the X-type jacket, which is a tight fit and has many design variations, showed somewhat low similarity in the circumference items and the basic construction line. Especially in tight-fitted power shoulder jackets, the fact that shoulder angles and the essential items for pattern making cannot be reflected in reproducing virtual models was found to be a limitation in increasing the similarity of virtual clothing. Furthermore, the sewing system gap between the real and the virtual clothing exposed a difference in the appearance of virtual clothing.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.80-91
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of visual effects and visual images by variations in shoulder angle and shoulder width of power shoulder jacket. The stimuli are 5 samples: One control group, 2 variations of the angle of shoulder line and 2 variations of the width of shoulder line. The data has been obtained from 87 fashion design majors. The data has been analyzed by Factor Analysis, Anova, Scheffe's Test and the Correlation Analysis. The results of the study are as follows: The visual images by the angle and the width of shoulder line of power shoulder jacket are composed of 4 factors : attention, stiffness and softness, masculinity, and trendiness. Among these factors, attention factor is estimated by the most important factor. The visual effects by the angle and the width of shoulder line of power shoulder jacket are composed of 3 factors : whole silhouette, neck and arm figure, upper body figure. In these factors, the whole silhouette is estimated by the most important factor. The power shoulder jacket with extreme changes in shoulder angle has double images: it looks trendy and classy but also gives an awkward image. In case of changes in shoulder width, the visual evaluation shows big differences with the degree of expansion. The visual evaluation with variation in angle has stronger image and effect than that in width. The power shoulder jacket trend itself is also evaluated that variation in angle reflects the trend better than that in width.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.125-134
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of power-shoulder jacket shown in 08/09 F/W and 09/10 F/W London, Paris, Milan, New York collection and extract main expression words for development of semantic differential scales of visual image according to the change in shoulder angle and width of power-shoulder jacket. The result of this study is as follows. Power-shoulder jacket which were worn by 1980 business women have similar cutting with men's suit jacket, but have characteristics of exaggerating the body figure as exaggerated shoulder with pad and tight waist like an inverted triangle silhouette. Power-shoulder jackets shown in collections used glossy and glittering material and dark colors and formed slim silhouette with matches of shoulder line of temperate senses and casual wear. Like this, the power-shoulder jacket was expanded to daily casual wear from traditional formal wear. Main expression words of visual image of jackets according to the changes in angle and width of shoulder differ greatly depending on the expansion degree of angle and width of shoulder. Changes in shoulder angle may look tense, stiff and too much according to the amount of changes. However, it also has the image of sharp but dignified and charismatic. Also, it helps to show body figure more efficiently like being slim and looking taller. Related to the current trend emphasizing shoulder among women, it is evaluated to be stylish and trendy. When the expansion degree is not too much, changes in shoulder width partly show slim and slender waist under the influence of wider shoulder with basic tailored jacket image. However, when the expansion degree is enlarged, image related to the body figure is more definite compared to other visual images.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.117-125
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of body compensation image on variations in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket. Nine samples were examined: 3 variations of the shoulder height and 3 variations of the shoulder width. The data was evaluated by 123 fashion design majors. The results were as follows; as a result of analyzing the body compensation image according to changes in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket, five factors were selected; the shoulder compensation factor, the bust compensation factor, the waist compensation factor, the arm compensation factor and the neck compensation factor. Among these factors, the shoulder compensation factor is the most important factor. Examining the major effect of the body compensation image based on changes in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket, it had an independent influence on factors about waist, neck, shoulder and arm compensation except a factor about bust compensation, had an influence on interacting effect of factors about shoulder, bust, waist, arm compensation, and it had no influence on interacting effect of a factor about neck compensation. This shows that the shoulder height has larger effect on neck compensation image than the shoulder width in power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제25권5호
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• pp.593-602
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• 2023

This study aimed to facilitate the use of virtual technologies such as sewing, appearance, and material expression in 3D virtual wear programs. For product production and education, we expounded how to express the shoulder shape and silhouette of sleeve-expanded power shoulder jackets. Two designs of sleeve-expanded power shoulder jackets were selected, and virtual jackets were produced using a virtual avatar based on the body dimensions of female subjects in their 20s. The essential purpose of a 3D virtual power shoulder jacket is to express the shoulder angle rise and shoulder width, which are much wider than the avatar's shoulder. Therefore, the virtual pad values were adjusted for the collision and rendering of each thickness. In addition, the position and angle of the virtual pads were controlled through simulation. Appearance similarity was evaluated using photographic data and the virtual jackets. For the set-in sleeve virtual power shoulder jacket, the wrinkle expressions of the torso and sleeve were rated as moderate, and material expression was slightly insufficient. The similarity of some ease and width items of the torso was tightly expressed, and the overall appearance, positions of lines, and details of jackets were rated high, especially at the neck and sleeve shapes. In the case of the kimono virtual power shoulder jacket, the expressions of the torso wrinkles and buttons were slightly lower; however, the overall similarity, basic lines, ease, shoulder and neck details, and material expression of the virtual jackets were highly evaluated.