• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.122-133
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• 2005

The change of surface sediment composition, shoreline and transection of geography were studied to investigate the Typhoon(Maemi) effect in Naa Beach located in the south area of East sea. In the backshore the volume of gravel is do creased, and increased in the volume of sand. The erosion in the sediment occurred to 4 m in the thickness and effected to 10 m in depth. And the coastline retreated to 12 m after typhoon. During typhoon conditions, higher amplitude waves deepen the wave base, causing much of the lower beach face and the offshore. The upper beach face is extensively eroded during typhoon and sand sediment is redeposited.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.30 no.3 s.109
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• pp.181-187
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• 2006

In the wave spectrum distribution based on linear wave theory, the appearance of a giant wave whose wave height reaches to 30m has been considered next to almost impossible in a real sea However since more than 10 giant waves were observed in a recent investigation of global wave distribution which was carried out by the analysis of SAR imagines for three weeks, the existence of the giant waves is being recognized and it is considered the cause of many unknown marine disasters. The change of wave height distribution concerning a formation of wave train, nonlinear wave to wave interaction and so on were raised as the causes of the appearance of the giant waves, but the occurrence mechanism of the giant waves hasn't been cleared yet. In present study, we investigated appearance circumstances of the giant waves in real sea and its occurrence mechanism was analyzed based on linear and nonlinear wave focusing theories. Also, through a development of numerical model of the nonlinear $schr\"{o}dinger$ equation, the formations of the giant wave from progressive wave train were reproduced.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.291-302
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• 2015

The seasonal variations of sea surface winds and significant wave heights were investigated using the data observed from the marine meteorological buoys (nine stations) and Automatic Weather Stations (AWSs) in lighthouse (nine stations) around the Korean Peninsula during 2010~2012. In summer, the prevailing sea surface winds over the East/West Sea and the South Sea were northerly/southerly and easterly/westerly winds due to both of southeast monsoon and the shape of Korean Peninsula. On the other hand, the strong northerly winds has been observed at most stations near Korean marginal seas under northwest monsoon in winter. However, the sea surface winds at some stations (e.g. Galmaeyeo, Haesuseo in the West Sea) have different characteristics due to topographic effects such as island or coastal line. The significant wave heights are the highest in winter and the lowest in summer at most stations. In case of some lighthouse AWSs surrounded by islands (e.g. Haesuseo, Seosudo) or close to coast (e.g. Gangan, Jigwido), very low significant wave heights (below 0.5 m) with low correlations between sea surface wind speeds and significant wave heights were observed.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2016.05a
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• pp.380-384
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• 2016

홍수완화의 관점에서 강을 관리하기 위하여 수자원의 이용과 생태계보전, 하천흐름과 형태학적 변화들에 대하여 충분히 이해하고 합리적으로 설명하는 것이 필요하다. 최근에 수변지역에서 발달된 식생은 홍수시에 감속영역과 생물들의 피난처를 제공하는 것 이외에 횡단방향의 혼합작용을 활성화하여 유사와 식물의 씨앗 및 입자성 유기물(POM)을 포착하는 기능을 하고 특히 흐름과 유사이송 및 하도 지형변화에 큰 영향을 주기 때문에 중요하다. 입자성 유기물(POM)은 하천생태계를 지탱하는 에너지원으로서 다양한 형태로 존재하고 미생물의 분해를 받아 무기화된 식생의 번무와 물질순환의 시발점이 되기도 하지만 현재까지 식생영역 내에서 그 공급과정에 관련이 있는 운동기구에 관한 연구는 아직 부족한 실정이다. 따라서 본 연구는 식생영역의 유사퇴적 및 분급작용, 입자성 유기물의 포착을 일으키는 원인과 흐름의 특징 중 식생영역 내에서 흐름방향으로 감속에 주목하여 수리 모형실험을 실시하였고 수변식생에서 부유사와 POM의 퇴적과정에 대하여 검토 및 모델링을 실시하였다. 수리 모형실험 결과 CPOM과 FPOM 모두 유사의 퇴적없이 그 자체로는 퇴적이 되지 않았고 수변식생의 종방향 이송의 경우 식생에 의해 퇴적된 부유사가 사련 형태로 형성이 되어 CPOM이 사련의 배후에서 캡쳐 되었다. 또한 두가지 샘플 움직임의 상호작용은 사련의 파고와 파장의 전파속도를 감소시켰다. 식생지역에서 횡방향 분산의 경우에 대해서는 각각의 유사 크기에 대한 퇴적물의 능선은 식생의 경계를 따라 형성되었고 운동의 범위는 유사 퇴적의 능선에 의해 촉진되어 횡방향으로 확산하며 확장되었다. 이러한 결과를 바탕으로 제한된 경험적인 지식보다 오히려 실험을 통하여 식생을 동반하는 장소에서 유사와 POM의 거동특성 차이 및 간섭작용을 명확히 한 후 현장에서 관측된 현상과 비교 검증이 필요하다고 사료되며 추후에 운동기구를 모델링 및 업그레이드 해 나가는 것이 앞으로의 하천생태계 예측평가에 필요하다고 판단된다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.35 no.5
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• pp.95-101
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• 2023

Recent persistent coastal developments have expanded recreational areas and enhanced accessibility. However, this growth has also led to a rise in safety incidents. These accident factors can be divided into human-made and natural types. The latter is comprised of dynamic factors like waves, tides, sea fogs, and winds. While institutions like the Korea Meteorological Administration and the Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency already offer data on these dynamic factors, the resolution is often insufficient for a precise assessment of localized risks. In this study, to overcome these limitations, we utilized the dynamic information from existing open systems to construct a high-resolution numerical simulation. Through this, we developed an automated module to predict dynamic factors in localized coastal activity areas. Particularly during the module's construction, we compared and reviewed the numerical prediction results for waves with observed wave heights.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2013

Acoustic backscatter profiles were measured by Eco-sounder along an east-west section in the mid-eastern Yellow Sea and at an anchoring station in the low salinity region off the Keum River estuary in September 2012, with observing physical water property structure by CTD. Tidal front was established around the sand ridge developed in 50 m depth region. Internal waves measured by Eco-sounder during low tide period in the eastern side of the sand ridge were nonlinear depression waves with wave height of 15 m and mean wavelength of 500 m. These waves were interpreted into tidal internal waves that were produced by tidal current flowing over the sand ridge to the southeast. When weakly non-linear soliton model was applied, propagation speed and period of these internal depression wave were 50 m/s and 16~18 min. Red tides by Dinoflagelates Cochlodinium were observed in the sea surface where strong acoustic scattering layer was raised up to 7 m. Hourly CTD profiles taken at the anchoring station off the Keum River estuary showed the halocline depth change by tidal current and land-sea breeze. When tidal current flowed strongly to the northeast during flood period and land-breeze of 7 m/s blew to the west, the halocline was temporally raised up as much as 2 m and acoustic profile images showed a complex structure in the surface layer within 5-m depth: in tens of seconds the declined acoustic structure of strong and weak scattering signals alternatively appeared with entrainment and intrusion shape. These acoustic profile structures in the surface mixed layer were observed for the first time in the coastal sea of the mid-eastern Yellow Sea. The acoustic profile images and turbidity data suggest that relatively transparent low-layer water be intruded or entrained into the turbid upper-layer water by vertical shear between flood current and land breeze-induced surface current.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 1981

Since the estuary is a very complex place in which the sea water and the fresh water meet, it is very difficult to make a general analytical description of salinity distribution in the estuary. As an attempt to investigate the characteristics of salinity variation in the estuary of the Geum River, the field observations were continuously carried out at three points near the Gunsan New Harbor at the time intervals 1 to 1.5 hours during one tidal cycle and the data were analysed. The following results were obtained; 1. It was reconfirmed that most of the ratios of the salinity to the conductivity were widely distributed between the range of 0.5 to 1.0. 2. The salinity showed the peak at the high water, and then it began to decrease gradually and had the lowest value 0 to 2 hours after the low water. 3. The density current was generally the intense mixing type and when the river discharge was very large it was of the moderate type. 4. The vertical salinity distribution was not significantly affected by the wave height. 5. The maximum vertical salinity differences were generally less than 10 g/l and the time of the occurrence of the minimum value was 0 to 3 hours after the low water when in the spring tide and in the neap tide it occurred 2 to 3 hours after the high water.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.351-362
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• 2020

Numerical simulations of the storm surge and waves induced by the Typhoon Maemi incident on the south sea of Korea in 2003 are performed using the JMA-MSM forecast weather field, NCEP-CFSR reanalysis weather field, ECMWF-ERA5 reanalysis weather field, and the pressure and wind fields obtained using the best track information provided by JTWC. The calculated surge heights are compared with the time history observed at harbours along the coasts of Korea. For the waves occurring coincidentally with the storm surges the calculated significant wave heights are compared with the measured data. Based on the comparison of surge and wave heights the assessment of the reliability of various weather fields is performed. As a result the JMA-MSM weather fields gives the highest reliability, and the weather field obtained using JTWC best track information gives also relatively good agreement. The ECMWF-ERA5 gives in general surge and wave heights weaker than the measured. The reliability of NCEP-CFSR turns out to be the worst for this special case of Typhoon Maemi. Based on the results of this study it is found that the reliable weather fields are essential for the accurate simulation of storm surges and waves.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.22 no.7
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• pp.869-875
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to analyze the long-term wave characteristics and tendencies of coastal waters near Korea based on wave hind-casting modelling. Wave hind-casting modelling was performed with a wind data set from ECMWF (2001~2014), which provides data from 1979 to the present. The results of numerical modelling were verified with observed data collected using wave buoys installed by the Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA) and Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency (KHOA) in offshore waters. The results agreed well with observations from buoy stations, especially during event periods such as typhoons. The quantitative RMSE value was 0.5 m, which was significant. Consequently, the results of a wave tendency analysis for 14 years (2001~2014) showed an increased appearance ratio for waves of more than 2 m in height at all regional domains. The mean appearance ratio was 0.082 % per year, which implies that coastal waves have been increasing continuously. This coastal wave tendency analysis data can be used to evaluate coastal vulnerability due to recent climate change and the design of coastal erosion prevention structures.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.55-68
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• 2020

In order to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of a boundary layer streaming over the beach cusps appeared in swells prevailing mild seas, we numerically simulated the shoaling process of Edge waves over the beach cusp. Synchronous Edge waves known to sustain the beach cusps could successfully be duplicated by generating two obliquely colliding Edge waves in front of beach cusps. The amplitude A_B and length L_B of Beach Cusp were elected to be 1.25 m and 18 m, respectively based on the measured data along the Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that boundary layer streaming was formed at every phase of shoaling process without exception, and the maximum boundary layer streaming was observed to occur at the crest of sand bar. In RUN 1 where the shortest waves were deployed, the maximum boundary layer streaming was observed to be around 0.32 m/s, which far exceeds the amplitude of free stream by two times. It is also noted that the maximum boundary layer streaming mentioned above greatly differs from the analytical solution by Longuet-Higgins (1957) based on wave Reynolds stress. In doing so, we also identify the recovery procedure of natural beaches in swells prevailing mild seas, which can be summarized such as: as the infra-gravity waves formed in swells by the resonance wave-wave interaction arrives near the breaking line, the sediments ascending near the free surface by the Phase II waves orbital motion were carried toward the pinnacle of foreshore by the shoreward flow commenced at the steep front of breaking waves, and were deposited near the pinnacle of foreshore due to the infiltration.