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http://dx.doi.org/10.5394/KINPR.2006.30.3.181

A Study of the Appearance Characteristics and Generation Mechanism of Giant Waves  

Shin Seung-Ho (Ocean Engineering Research Department, Maritime & Ocean Engineering Research Institute)
Hong Key-Yong (Ocean Engineering Research Department, Maritime & Ocean Engineering Research Institute)
Abstract
In the wave spectrum distribution based on linear wave theory, the appearance of a giant wave whose wave height reaches to 30m has been considered next to almost impossible in a real sea However since more than 10 giant waves were observed in a recent investigation of global wave distribution which was carried out by the analysis of SAR imagines for three weeks, the existence of the giant waves is being recognized and it is considered the cause of many unknown marine disasters. The change of wave height distribution concerning a formation of wave train, nonlinear wave to wave interaction and so on were raised as the causes of the appearance of the giant waves, but the occurrence mechanism of the giant waves hasn't been cleared yet. In present study, we investigated appearance circumstances of the giant waves in real sea and its occurrence mechanism was analyzed based on linear and nonlinear wave focusing theories. Also, through a development of numerical model of the nonlinear $schr\"{o}dinger$ equation, the formations of the giant wave from progressive wave train were reproduced.
Keywords
Giant wave; Linear wave focusing; Nonlinear wave focusing; Nonlinear $schr\"{o}dinger$ equation; Wave train;
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