• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.69-85
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• 2007

Despite the recovery of consumer expenditure and retailing in the Korean economy after 2001, the domestic apparel industry has been aggravated by negative growth in both productivity and production. The purpose of the stud? is to diagnose the develop competitive of the Korean apparel industry and derive implications for this after estimating the efficiency of the Korean apparel companies with Data Envelopment Analysis. Data Envelopment Analysis(DEA) is a methodology based in non-parametric analysis and linear programming. It was developed for measuring the relative efficiency of a set of firms that use inputs to produce outputs. Data used fer input and output variables in the analysis are drawn from financial statement recorded by the Korean Financial Supervisory Service. The initial input data comprise the number fo the employees, fixed assets, general management and selling expenses, and cost of sales. The initial outputs are the operating profit and the gross margin. To summary the results, the efficiencies of the Korean apparel companies has increased yearly in spite of being overabundance of investment in Labour and Capital. According to correlation between input and output variables, the Korean apparel industry has been revamping gradually from labor intensive industries to the capital. The companies need to reduce costs in the results from the number of employees, fixed asset and cost of sales to transform into an efficiently enterprise. The companies owning or obtaining a brand had bitter establish an outsourcing strategic in production, while OEM corporations are called far setting up a manufactory in domestic or abroad. Although the paper is derived some implications with production efficiencies, the relation between apparel companies and brand power, consumption level of consumer, and social trend is remained on a limitation to the study. The next research necessitates a topic with Fashion industry or examining the correlation between brand value, social propensity and profit margin.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.176-187
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• 2007

Buddhist paintings in the late Joseon dynasty are characterized by diversification and subdivision of subject matters. Buddhist paintings rapidly declined since 19th century, being miniaturized and showing complicated composition. Figures that identified the shape of shoes in Buddhist paintings of late Joseon dynasty included sacheonwang that were placed in the left and right bottom of Buddhist paintings, sinjung, gwiwang and pan-gwan of siwangtaeng. Sacheonwang, an Indian folk god, was depicted as a noble person in "ahamgyeong", an early sutra, but was depicted as an armored warrior in Mahayana Buddhism world. The style of shoes sacheonwang in Korea were different depending on the times. The shoes of the sacheonwang sculpture in Seogguram of Shilla dynasty are sandal type. The sacheonwang that was drawn on Jijangbosaldo in Goryeo dynasty wears non-showy armor and red yi(履). The sacheonwang that was expressed on Buddhist paintings in Joseon dynasty wears showy armor and decorated hwa. Comparing the yi of Goryeo Jijangbosaldo sacheonwang with the yi of Bodhisattva on the Dunhuang yeolbanbyeonsangdo, Jijangbosaldo sacheonwang's shoes are Korean style in which the sole is flat and the front part has no decoration, but in the shoes of Bodhisattva on the Dunhuang yeolbanbyeonsangdo the sole is not flat, the front part is lifted. The style of shoes of pan-gwan, who is depicted on Siwangtaeng, is hwa. However, unlike the decorative hwa of sacheonwang, its front is not lifted and it has no decoration. It is assumed that the shoes of sacheonwang or pan-gwan represented obangsaek based on the idea of eumyang-ohaeng. Depiction of shoes shown in Buddhist paintings reflected the phases of the social life. In addition, the sandals of Shilla sacheonwang implies that sourthern culture in addition to Buddhism was introduced. Having expressed the shoes of Goryeo sacheonwang with conventional yi implies that Buddhism governed the inner world of the people, and the shape and material of the shoes reveals aristocracy. It is assumed that that an armored warrior wore yi, not hwa implies that the then society was stable. Also, it is assumed that that the shoes of sacheonwang on Buddhist paintings in Joseon dynasty were hwa implies that the role of tutelary god was stressed in the disordered society.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.808-817
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to verify potential differences in group- specific external feature concerns and beauty care behaviors of Korean women in their 20's~40's depending on their narcissistic propensity. This study is to take psychological approaches to narcissistic propensity of our contemporary society, so that it can get better understanding about consumers and provide marketing data on beauty-related industry. To meet the above goals, total 400 sheets of questionnaire were distributed to subjects from March 30 to April 8, 2009. Out of 376 sheets of questionnaire collected, total 355 valid questionnaires except incomplete 21 ones were used for final data analysis. For data analysis, this study used SPSS 12.0 as statistic program to perform factor analysis, reliability test (Cronbac's ${\alpha}$ coefficient), cluster analysis, t-test, analysis of variance (ANOVA), Duncan's multiple range test and multiple regression analysis. As a result, this study could come to the following findings: First, according to cluster analysis depending upon different factors such as self-directed narcissism, others-conscious narcissism and others-sensitive narcissism, it was found that our women in 20's to 40's could fall into 4 groups, i.e. complex narcissism group, mixed narcissism group, others-sensitive narcissism group and dispirited narcissism group. Second, according to analysis on potential differences in external feature concerns among four groups depending on their narcissistic propensity, it was found that there were significant differences in all relevant factors among groups. Third, according to analysis on differences in beauty care behaviors among four groups depending upon their narcissistic propensity, it was found that there were significant differences in all relevant factors among groups. Fourth, according to analysis on potential factors of external feature concerns that may influence beauty care behaviors of complex narcissism group, it was found that those factors had significant effects on fashion-orientedness, cosmetic surgery and personality pursuit of this group. And it was also found that there were significant differences in fashion-orientedness, cosmetic surgery, makeup and hair styling of mixed narcissism group, others-sensitive narcissism group and dispirited narcissism group respectively.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.321-326
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of body fat on energy metabolic response and subjective sensations under the hot environment. Fifteen female university students volunteered as subjects. We organized subjects into three groups: low body fat group(group L : less than 20% of body fat), medium body fat group(group M : 20%~30% of body fat) and high body fat group(group H: more than 30% of body fat). The experiment was conducted with $32^{\circ}C$, 60%RH. The subjects repeated 'Exercise' and 'Rest' period. The results of this study are as follows ; The oxygen uptake value of AM is higher than PM. The value of group H is the highest in three fat groups. But it showed group L is the highest in oxygen uptake per weight. %body fat is the lower, oxygen uptake is the higher. In Calorie, group L has higher value in AM in than in PM. In M group and group H, a value of PM is higher than AM. In group H, difference of AM and PM is the highest. From a view point of three groups, a value of group H is the highest. This support that calorie increases as oxygen uptake increase. The heart rate values of group L and group H are the higher in AM than in PM. This support that heart rate was relation to oxygen uptake. In all three groups, the value of blood pressure is higher in AM than in PM. Subjective sensations of temperature sensation, thermal comfort, and wetness sensation are higher in Am than in Pm. This explains that subject sensations are similar to experimental data, such as oxygen uptake, heart rate, blood pressure. In oxygen uptake, heart rate and blood pressure, general tend to showed higher AM than PM. This showed that heart rate, oxygen uptake increase in AM, as blood pressure increase, too. From a view point of %body fat, group H is higher than the others in oxygen uptake, heart rate and blood pressure.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.315-320
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• 2005

With regard to the fact that temperature of human body remains almost constant at $37^{\circ}C$, changes by circadian variation, this study intended to investigate the effect of circadian rhythm on physiological responses of human body according to body fat rate. Fifteen healthy adult women were recruited for this study and were measured body fat as a method of bio impedance. We organized subjects into three groups ; low body fat group(group L-less than 20% of body fat), medium body fat group(group M-20%~30% of body fat) and high body fat group(group H-more than 30% of body fat). The experiment was carried out in a climate chamber of $32^{\circ}C$, 60% RH with the repeat of 'Exercise' and 'Rest' period. Subjects participated in two experiments, one is morning experiment(called 'AM'), the other is afternoon experiment (called 'PM'). The results of this study are as follows ; As to the variation of rectal temperature, group L and M had a significant difference in the time of the day between AM and PM, but group H had almost the same rectal temperature in the two kinds of experimental time. The reason why group H had a smaller difference in the circadian rhythm of rectal temperature in this study is estimated at the Budd et al.(1991)'s results that body fat had effects on reduction in thermogenesis, radiation, mean skin temperature, and increase in insulation of the tissues. Group M had the highest mean skin temperature in the 'PM'. All the 3 groups didn't have stable values in 'AM'. But it showed more stable in 'PM' than 'AM'. Sweat rate was the highest in group H in both 'AM' and 'PM'. Group M had larger sweat rate in 'PM' than 'AM'. but in group L and H, sweat rate was almost the same in two kinds of time of the day. This result suggests that who have more or less body fat have larger difference in sweat rate between morning and afternoon than who have normal body fat.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.336-340
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• 2004

This is the result of the comparison of the number of jeans, colors, images, opinions when it was purchased, shapes according to the gender of persons in jeans. According to the gender, male students had 1.64 jeans(46.3%) and female students had 2.09 jeans(53.7%) on the average. Male students selected colors of jeans which they don't have, but want to wear once in the order of blue(3.7%), red(21.0%), white(24.1%), black(25.6%), and others(25.6%). Female students selected colors in the order of blue(3.2%), black(15.6%), red(24.8%), white(27.7%) and others(25.6%). In case of the general image about jeans, male students thought the jeans as masculine(1.2%), sexy(3.1%), unisexual(3.2%), active(23.6%), young(29.8%), and comfortable(36.5%) and female students thought it as masculine(0.3%), sexy(3.5%), unisexual(10.4%), young(21.9%), comfortable(28.1%) and active(35.8%). Male students considered torn or holed jeans ill-mannered(10.7%), delinquent, (20.7%)trendy(21.0%), comfortable(22.9%), and dandy(24.7%). Female students think it ill-mannered(3.4%), delinquent7.1%, trendy(17.4%), comfortable(21.1%), and dandy(50.9%). When they purchase jeans, male students choose according to trends(17.9%), don't consider design(19.5%) and look for their own styles(62.6%), female students didn't consider design(5.2%), choose according to trends(22.0%), and look for their own styles(72.5%). The designs of jeans which they usually wear were bell bottom(1.5%), wide-shaped(7.4%), baggy(17.5%), straight-shaped(73.6%) in case of male students. on the other hand, in case of female students, baggy(10.2%), wide-shaped(11.0%), bell bottom(17.0%), and straight-shaped(61.8%). The designs of jeans which they didn't have but want to wear once are wide-shaped(10.1%), bell bottom(13.2%), baggy(20.9%), and straight-shaped(55.2%) in case of male students. On the other hand, females students want to wear baggy(11.6%), wide-shaped(15.0%), straight-shaped(27.6%), and bell bottom(45.8%). The above-mentioned findings illustrated that both male and female students regarded blue as the original color of jeans, but they wanted to wear jeans in colors other than blue. In the past, jeans were considered masculine and unisex, but they viewed jeans as an apparel that was comfortable to wear and made it easier to move. Female students had a higher tendency to be fashionable than male students, and their preference for jeans was consequently different. Jeans manufacturers should take those characteristics into account to produce products in different colors and form.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.728-733
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• 2011

U.S. apparel brands are being imported to Korea more than any other country's apparel brands. Against this backdrop, this study intends to verify the fitness of U.S. apparels for Korean people in terms of size. To this end, the authors selected 25 American and 25 Korean women in their twenties and studied the differences of these two groups with regard to the size of their lower body parts. In addition, the authors analyzed how the size of each part of the lower body changes according to different postures. All the study subjects were required to be able to wear medium-sized pants of the U.S. apparel. The results of the present study are shown below. The American women were bigger than the Korean counterparts in leg length, hip circumference, thigh circumference, and all height-related sizes. However, the Koreans were bigger than their peers in lengths from waist to crotch; crotch length, body rise and the length from front waist point to hip line. Standing posture was used as a yardstick, when the changes in size according to the different postures were examined. The results indicate that hip and knee circumferences increased in the sitting posture. In particular, hip circumference significantly increased in the American women group. Regarding length-related sizes, increases and decreases in sizes for different lower body parts differed according to the posture. For a walking posture with ordinary strides, the front crotch length decreased while the back crotch length increased. This tendency was more notably observed for Korean women. The American woman clearly showed a decrease in outside leg length for all postures. The Korean women obviously presented an increase in the front center leg length for the sitting posture and for the posture where the knees were bent at $120^{\circ}$. The length from the front waist point to the hip line significantly declined in the Korean woman for the sitting posture and for the walking posture with ordinary strides.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.600-613
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide Torso pattern for Korean middle-aged women using 3D human body scan data. 155 women in their 40's or 50's were measured by Martin's anthropometry. Merging the data of 914 middle aged women provided by Korean agency for technology and standards, total of 1,069 subjects' data were analyzed. For data analysis, ANOVA, factor analysis and cluster analysis were done using SPSS PC+. And representative subject of each cluster was selected and they participated in 3D scanning and Torso pattern suggested for middle-aged women Torso pattern which investing the amount of ease according to each group for diffuse front interscye 30%, armscye circumference 30%, back interscye 40% using 3D human body scan data. The results of this study are as follows. Firstly, as a result of the factor analysis, the first factor was 'obesity index of body', The second factor was 'verticality size of body', The third factor was 'verticality length of upper bodice', The fourth factor was 'drop value to represent silhouette', and the fifth factor was 'physique of upper bodice'. And, middle-aged women type were classified 3 types according to the cluster analysis. Type 1(Y-type) was the long upper Torso with wide shoulder. Type 2(H-type) was flat-body type with comparatively thin upper bodice and thin lower bodice. And type 3(A-type) was the obese type with comparatively thin upper bodice and fat lower bodice. Secondly, using CAD program, point filtering was performed and approximated surface model was made. It used that generated surface smoothing corrected for abnormally extruded points and scattered points based on the curvature information. And 3D surfaces were flatted onto the plane by the internal tools of CAD program. Difference ratios of outline length and area between 3D curves and 2D plane were 0.42% and 0.54%, respectively. Third, wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that distinct difference almost every category. The movement functionality test shows that, in all the tests which reveal significant differences, especially, 'comparison pattern A' experienced inconvenience to neck width and neck depth.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.815-824
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• 2004

In academic and/or practitioner literature, the assortment planning for fashion sensitive products is rarely systematically studied, and organized in an objective format. The purpose of this study was to develop a suggested assortment planning model for women's clothing retail buyers by integrating a conceptual assortment planning model and a practical-use assortment planning model, which are also developed in this study. In developing the conceptual model, this research categorized and organized the pieces of assortment planning activities illustrated in available literature. In developing the practical-use model, ten women's dress buyers from department stores and specialty stores were interviewed. The contents of the interview dictation were classified and summarized by concepts and variables. The summary was validated by the interviewees and recontextualized for the practical-use model. Five experts compared the conceptual and practical-use models, adjusted the discrepancies, and integrated into the suggested model. In addition, a questionnaire asking review of all functional activities of the suggested model was sent to interviewees to ascertain its validity. As the result, assortment planning process was determined at abstract level as the following: (a) recognize problem, (b) search for information, (c) evaluate qualitative value of product, (d) evaluate quantitative value of product, (e) plan product selection, and (f) plan sales.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.538-544
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• 2007

We usually try to accomodate ourselves to our nature surroundings interacting with nature. There fore I've decided to apply nature materials, esp. the pine to Hair Art as a way of expressing our feelings from Nature. 'Hair Art' is a follow-up study based on the various artistic point of view. There has been various works of 'Hair Art' with nature materials. However, it is rare to see a work of 'Hair Art' with the pine. That's why I've decided to study more about this. This study is a new experiment in 'Hair Art' against a conventional idea "Hair Art values practicability." Therefore, the primary goal of this study is to do much for the cause of learning in 'Hair Art' and encourages some development of 'Hair Art' industry. I've researched an image of a pine tree in art of Joseon Dynasty and contemporary art. Then I've tried to apply the image to a work of 'Hair Art'. First of all, in a view of expression technique for the symbolism of the pine, the artists in Joseon Dynasty drew pictures of a pine tree with a paintbrush but the modern artists make a new attempt from the thought of Modernism. We can find it in some photos. Next, to express traditional oriental idea such as 'unconventional and elegance', comtemporary artists chose the symbolism of the pine tree as an object of their works like pen and ink sketches from the thought of Modernism. Third, in a fusion style picture which contains features of both oriental paintings and western paintings and in a sexualism style picture that depicts a harmony of a male and a female as a shape of a pine, we can find colorful images of a pine tree and Their figurative beauty in art. Those are another symbols of the pine. In conclusion, the implication of the pine tree still hasn't changed even there are differences of drawings of pine tree in the past and the present. I've tried to combine these symbolic ideas of the pine with 'Hair Art' and made 5 hair styles. Throughout the process of researching this topic which is 'The Study of Hair Art Using The Symbolism of The Pine', I've realized that pine trees make it possible to express intrinsic tough spirit of human being and abundance in color and figurative beauty in art. I hope this can contribute to the field of 'Hair Art' and would become an important educational resource for further study.