• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2003.08a
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• pp.240-244
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• 2003

파랑의 변형 가운데 천수, 굴절, 회절, 반사를 예측하는 수학적 모형은 크게 두 가지 유형으로 나눌 수 있는데, 첫 번째로 파형경사인 ha(k：파수. $\alpha$：진폭)를 비선형의 매개변수로 하는 Stokes 파랑식이 있고, 두 번째로 상대파고인 $\alpha$/h를 비선형의 매개변수로 하고 상대수심인 kh를 분산성의 매개변수로 하는 천수방정식(Shallow water equation)이 있다. 파랑의 변형 가운데 천수, 굴절만을 예측하고 회절, 반사를 예측하지 못하는 수학적 모형으로는 에너지 이송방정식이 있다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.1-13
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• 2008

In the present work, wave transformation by vertical columns and its wave forces acting on them are discussed using a direct 3-D numerical model based on the VOF (Volume Of Fluid) method. The numerical results for wave transformations and wave forces are critically compared to an advanced experimental data, and provide the verification of the numerical model used in the present study. Overall model-data comparisons are good. After verification of the numerical model, it is used to simulate wave fields around dual vertical columns with arbitrary cross section, and the characteristics of nonlinear wave forces and wave transformations according to the variations of different cross section types of vertical columns, an interval of vertical columns and incident wave angle are discussed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.335-344
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• 2011

A curvilinear non-hydrostatic free surface model is developed to investigate nonlinear wave interactions in a circular channel. The proposed model solves the unsteady Navier-Stokes equations in a three-dimensional domain with a pressure correction method, which is one of fractional step methods. A hybrid staggered-grid layout in the vertical direction is implemented, which renders relatively simple resulting pressure equation as well as free surface closure. Numerical accuracy with respect to wave nonlinearity is tested against the fifth-order Stokes solution in a two-dimensional numerical wave tank. Numerical applications center on the evolution of nonlinear waves including diffraction and reflection affected by the curvature of side wall in a circular channel comparing with linear waves. Except for a highly nonlinear bichrmatic wave, the model's results are in good agreement with superimposed analytical solution that neglects nonlinear effects. Through the numerical simulation of the highly nonlinear bichramatic wave, the model shows its capability to investigate the evolution of nonlinear wave groups in a circular channel.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.307-317
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• 1993

The problem of sea wave transformation in the coastal zone taking into account effects of nonlinearity and disperison has been studied. Mathematical model for description of regular wave transformation is based on the method of nonlinear ray theory. The equations for rays and wave field have been produced. Nonlinear wave field is described by the modified Korteweg-de Vries equation. Some analytical solutions of this equation are obtained. Caustic transformation and dissipation effects are included in the mathematical model. Numerical algorithm of solution of the Korteweg-de Vries equation and its stability criterion are described. Results of nonlinear transformation of sea waves in the coastal zone are demonstrated.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2002.08a
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• pp.62-65
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• 2002

파랑은 주로 먼바다에서 바람에 의해 생성되어 육지로 전파해오면서 천수, 굴절, 회절, 반사, 부서 짐 등의 여러 가지 변형의 과정을 거친다. 이러한 파랑의 변형을 예측하는 한 방법은 비압축성 유체와 비회전류의 연속방정식인 Laplace 방정식을 지배 방정식으로 하고 해수면에서의 운동학적 경계조건과 동역학적 경계 조건, 그리고 바닥에서의 운동학적 경계조건을 적용하여 해를 구한다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.202-212
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• 2005

In the design of an of offshore structure located near an underwater shoal, the same amount of attention given to the wave height may have to be put to the wave induced current as well since some of the wave energy translates to the current. In the present study, two numerical models each based on the nonlinear Boussinesq equation and the linear mild slope equation are applied to calculate the wave deformation and secondly induced current around a shoal. The underwater shoal in Vincent and briggs' experiment (1989) is used here, and all non-breaking wave conditions of the experiment with various monochromatic and unidirectional or multidirectional spectral wave incidences are concerned. Both numerical models clearly showed wave induced currents symmetrically farmed along the centerline over the shoal. The calculated wave heights along a preset line also generally showed very nice agreements with the experimental values.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.355-360
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• 2007

The process of the nonlinear shallow water wave transformation in a basin of a constant depth is studied. Characteristics of the first breaking of the wave are analyzed in details. The Fourier spectrum and steepness of the nonlinear wave are calculated. It is shown that the spectral amplitudes can be expressed using the wave front steepness, which allows the practical estimations.

• Journal of the Computational Structural Engineering Institute of Korea
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.495-508
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• 1999

변형된 라이저의 단위 접선벡터상의 운동학적 제약조건을 적용하여 심해저 라이저의 비선형 동적해석을 행한다. 이 조건의 적용으로 자유도수를 감소시킬 수 있으며 심한 비선형성으로 인한 해의 발산 가능성을 제거할 수 있다. 라이저의 거대변형으로 인한 기하학적 비선형성과 비선형 경계조건이 고려된다. 또한, 비선형성이 포함되는 수동학적 하중이 조류와 파랑에 의해 발생하여 내부에 정상류가 흐르는 라이저관의 외벽에 작용하게 된다. 이 외에도라이저 자체의 축방향 변형조건을 고려한다. Galerkin의 유한요소 근사화와 시간증분자를 적용하여 유한요소에 대한 평형 메트릭스 방정식을 유도하고, 수치해석을 위한 알고리즘을 제안하며 API 보고서의 결과와 비교함으로써 제안된 모델이 검증된다. 또한, 기하학적 비선형성으로 인한 영향을 조사하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.51-58
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• 2003

The magnitude of evanescent modes in terms of dynamics it investigated in case that the transformation of water waves is predicted by the linear wave theory. For the waves propagating over two steps, the eigenfunction expansion method is used to predict the amplitudes of reflected and transmitted waves by the component of evanescent modes as well as propagating modes. Then. the relative importance of evanescent modes to the propagating modes is investigated. The numerical experiments find that the evanescent modes are pronounced at the relative water depth of k$_1$h$_1$＝0.11$\pi$ and the water depth ratio of h$_2$/h$_1$ close to zero.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.95-102
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• 1996

The skewness of near-bottom velocity distribution caused by the nonlinear interaction of the second order waves proposed by Wells (1967) has been re-evaluated. The direction of cross-shore sediment transport was related to the sign of the third moment (skewness) of velocity distribution, and a new concept of neutral depth which can explain the recovery of beach equilibrium after a disturbance is suggested. The seasonal change of beach profile due to the change of wave condition (storm-swell profile) is interpreted in terms of nonlinear interaction of the waves rather than the conventional wave steepness. The beach is eroded (storm profile) when the nonlinear interaction of the waves is strong (storm wave), whereas the beach is accreted (swell profile) when the nonlinear interaction is weak (swell wave).