• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.131-142
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• 2006

This research has been done based on the Jeon Si Gwa(田柴科) regulation, the monumental inscription material and the former studies. The background of adapting the official uniform regulation in the early Goryeo Dynasty has been surveyed. Differentiating criterion in the official uniform color like purple(紫衫), red(丹衫), red(緋衫), and green(綠衫) has been studied. The official rank had been classified by the color of the official uniform in the early Goryeo uniform regulation. The lower class had worn purple(紫衫). The purple wearing class had not been the government post but the official rank. Those who worked for the Palace had worn purple color since purple color represented the Imperial Palace on which TAI-IL(太一), that is, the highest one of gods dwelt. Those who had worn red(丹色) in the monumental inscription had worked for the job associated with the military service or Hanlim savant(翰林學士) of Kwangmun Academy(光文院) and Hanlim Academy(翰林元). Dan Seo(丹書) which recorded King's commands also means the monumental inscription. In the Goryeosa(高麗史), the military class had been only in Dan Sam(丹衫). That means those class worn Dan Sam(丹衫) could have been as the strong supportive class for the Dynasty. In the early Goryeo Dynasty, the four colored uniform regulation had followed the enforcing policy of the royal authority. It has been assumed that the uniform regulation had been used as a way of enrolling the new supporting class into the existing official system. Dan Sam(丹衫) which had been worn only in the early Goryeo can be seen as the special class for strengthening the royal authority.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.125-139
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• 2004

The present study was to analyze the trend of registration of design rights in apparel products and tc point out problems of current protection law to design. The research data was total 1,850 design rights in apparel that have been registered to the Korean Patent and Trademark Office from the first design registered in March 1, 1963 through those registered in April 24, 2003. All design rights were analyzed by the year, by the type of product, and by the type of applicant. And also design rights registered under the revised design registration system(without examination) were analyzed by the trait. The results of the study were as follows: (1) Sweater & polo shirts, underpants, and the Korean traditional dress were three major single categories registered in apparel : (2) 54.3% of total design rights in apparel was registered since the legal system of design rights has been revised in March 1, 1998 : (3) Registration by individual applicant were 71.7% of total; (4) About 60% of total design rights were for aesthetic, but in some categories such as vest. brassiere, undershirts, designs for function were more frequently registered than others. And total 68 design rights for the symbol of the organization or uniform, were registered in upper outerwear and pants : (5) As problems of the current legal protection system for designs, the term of “design”(expressed in Korean), double registration of similar designs, malicious intention to register other's trademark as his/her own design. The current legal system for design rights were more used for the product that has relatively long life cycle. And the revised law has been effective in encouraging the registration of design rights. However. the current design law still has some problems to be revised to prevent design rights or trademark infringement.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.34-34
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• 2003

본 연구는 체형의 특성이 현저히 나타나는 40~50대의 Plus-size 여성을 대상으로 체형의 특징이 고려된 치수체계에 대해 맞음새가 우수한 재킷을 개발하고, 이 원형을 토대로 하여 체형의 단점을 보완할 시각적 효과를 연구하기 위해 Plus-size에 해당하는 여성을 선정하여 수트(suit)를 제작한 후 착의 평가하여 Plus-size에 적합한 수트를 제안하는데 목적을 두고 있다. 결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 1. Plus-size 여성의 착용실태를 파악하기 위해 실시한 착용실태 조사는 판매자의 측면의 심층면접과 소비자 측면의 착장조사로 구분하여 조사하고 분석하였다. 착용실태조사 결과, Plus-size 여성은 의복구매시 맞음새와 편안함을 중시하고 상완부와 어깨의 두께, 가슴둘레와 복부의 비만등의 체형단점을 갖게 되므로 판매자측에서는 의복제도 시에 등품, 앞품, 상완부, 복부의 여유분을 고려하고 있었다. 시각적 효과로는 세미피트 스타일의 프린세스 라인과 허리선+20, 30cm의 재킷길이, 그리고 테일러드 칼라, 스테인 칼라, 라운드 네크라인이 판매자과 소비자의 양측면에서 선호되고 있었다. 2. Plus-size 여성의 체형에 맞음새가 우수한 재킷원형을 개발하기 위해 Plus-size 여성복의 재킷 원형 중 4종의 기존원형을 선정하고, 착의 피험자 3인을 대상으로 3차에 걸친 착의실험을 통해 연구 원형을 개발하고 평가단을 구성해 객관적인 평가 33문항에 대한 외관 관능검사를 실시하였다. 1) 가슴둘레 여유분을 8~9cm, 허리둘레 여유분을 6~7cm, 엉덩이둘레 여유분을 6~8cm로 적용하여 맞음새를 향상시켜 날씬해 보이는 효과를 높였다. 2) 진동깊이 계산식은 (B/10+10.5)+2cm 적용하고, 진동두께 계산식은 (B/8-1.5)+2cm를 적용함으로써 진동깊이와 진동두께의 편차가 작아짐으로 인해 소매부위와 진동부위의 맞음새를 향상시켰다. 3) 가슴둘레의 증가에 따라 등길이에 앞길이 치수를 증가시키는 계산식을 설정하여 앞가슴둘레의 맞음새를 향상시켰다. 4) Plus-size여성의 경우 허리부분의 신체적합성을 높이기 위하여 사이드 판넬(side panel)의 재킷원형으로 하였다. 앞 허리와 배 부분의 지방 침착이 크므로 앞 허리둘레 다아트 폭과 앞판 사이드 판넬(side panel) 솔기 다아트 폭을 작게 설정하고, 뒤판 사이드 판넬 솔기 폭을 크게 설정하였다. 5) 어깨끝점 사이길이는 다른 부위의 체지방 침착과 같이 비례적으로 증가하지 않으므로 표준체형에 비해 좁게 설정하였다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.159-167
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• 2009

Based on instructions in the textbook "How to Construct Korean Costumes" which I authored, my university students were required to make Pungcha-Baji(Korean traditional pants for children) for one-year-old boys. While examining the students' construction, I found that the side seams of the vest and pants did not line up but were improperly twisted. It was found that the pants did not cover the child's backside because the width of the back was smaller than the width of the front when one of the side panels and the large center panel in the front was half the size of the hip and one of the side panels and the small panel in the back was four fifths of half the size of the hip. Although there were differences between the waist size of the pants and the bottom hem of the vest, the textbooks instruct that the amount of material and the number of pleats(i.e. 4 pleats) on the pants and the vest should be the same. Finding this mistake led me to investigate Pungcha-Baji construction in related textbooks. Thus with the textbook instruction, the side seams of the pants and the vest do not match and are improperly twisted. Hence, as a solution, the pleats should be made and adjusted after matching the side seams of the pants and the vest. The purpose of this study is to examine currently available Pungcha-Baji related textbooks and determine the correctness of their instructions and to ultimately provide correct construction methods for Pungcha-Baji pattern for academic purposes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.3
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• pp.123-137
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is contemplating and substantiating Korean Empire's court costume through relics and photos. Additionally, the meaning of the pattern of Mugunghwa as the national symbol in the court costume is considered. The results of this study are following. First, a phased introduction of western-style court costume was executed through Ulmi Reformation in 1895 and Court Costume Rule in 1900. U1mi Reformation was characterized by transitional reformation because newly introduced system and traditional costume consolidated in costume. Under Court Costume Rule, however, by accepting western-style on contemporary costume, modernized style was settled in every respect of form and matter. The court costume comprised bicorn, coat, vest, pantaloon, sword, sword belt, white collar and white gloves at audience with the Emperor. Second, by examination of the relics of Chigimgwan and Juimgwan, it was confirmed that the court costume was manufactured in foreign countries such as France and Russia on the basis of order. It was also identified by pictures that court costume was worn by diplomats dispatched. Third, the pattern of Mugunghwa in court costume was featured by embroidery of 6 petal pattern. And the pattern of Mugunghwa, as national symbol, has important meaning in view of history and national affection, while Japanese and European adopted the crest of the royal household. In summary, Korean Empire proclaimed modernized court costume institution to handle international relationship driven by West. It was uneasy reformation in adopting western court costume imported from overseas because its textile and style were completely different from traditional costume. However, the willingness of Korean Empire should be reevaluated in the history of Korean costume, in that Korean Empire established court costume proclaimed its sovereignty domestically and overseas, and that the pattern chosen as national symbol was that of Mugunghwa which is current national flower.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.8
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• pp.111-121
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• 2001

본 연구는 중년여성의 상반신을 대상으로 기존원형에 대한 평가를 실시한 후 이를 기본으로 제도법을 수정·보완하여 중년여성 체형에 맞는 상반신 토루소 연구원형을 제작하기 위한 목적으로 연구되었다. 연구 대상은 35세에서 59세의 중년여성으로 하였으며, 45세를 전후로 체형이 변한다는 선행 연구를 토대로 중년 전기(35세∼45세), 중년 후기(46세∼59세)로 나눠 연구하였다. 연구원형 제작을 위해서 97년 국민체위조사보고 자료에 나온 35세∼59세에 해당하는 신체치수를 사용하여 대학에서 교재로 사용되고 있는 4가지 원형을 설계하고 이를 CADsystem을 이용하여 각 Pattern간의 차이를 정확하게 비교하고, 4가지 원형의 실험복을 제작하여 착의 실험을 통해 객관적 평가 11항목, 주관적 평가 23항목에 대해 설문 조사를 하여 문제점을 파악하였다. 이를 기초로 연구원형을 제작하였고 제작 후 연구원형의 신체 적합성을 알아보기 위해 기존원형과 마찬가지로 착의 실험을 하여 평가하였다. 실험 결과 기존원형들이 착용시 진동부분과 뒤중심부분의 당김으로 인해 착용자가 불편함을 느끼는 것으로 나타났고 외관상으로는 가슴둘레와 엉덩이둘레 부분에 여유분량이 중년여성 체형에 비해 상대적으로 적었으며 가슴선, 허리선, 엉덩이선의 위치 역시 중년여성의 체형과는 맞지 않은 것으로 나타났다. 대체로 중년 전기에 비해 중년 후기에서 수정 보완이 더 요구되었는데 특히 나이가 들수록 등이 뒤로 젖혀지는 현상으로 인해 측면에서 봤을 때 허리가 들어가는 현상이 두드러져 뒤 허리부분의 수정이 요구되었다. 이에 연구원형에서는 기존원형에서 나타났던 가슴선, 허리선, 엉덩이선의 위치 조절을 위해 앞목기준선을 위로 2cm 올려 주었고 가슴둘레와 엉덩이둘레 부분에 여유분을 각각 2cm더 주어 제작하였으며 중년 후기에서 두드러지게 나타났던 뒤허리부분의 문제점을 허리중심선 설정시 1∼2cm안쪽으로 설정하여 체형변화를 반영하였다. 이에 따른 연구원형에 대한 주관적·객관적 착의 평가 결과는 착용시 기존원형에서 나타났던 진동부분과 뒤중심부분의 당김이 없어지고 외관상 가슴선, 허리선, 엉덩이선이 기존원형보다 개선된 것으로 나타났으며, 전체적인 외관에서도 전·후기 모두 기존원형 보다 좋은 것으로 평가되었다.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.609-624
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to give the guideline to the pattern designing by supplying various images of the transformed shape of tailored collar with the location and angle of gorge line and laying measurement of the tailored collar while designing the tailored collar. The results of this study are as follows : Images of the sample at the case of 1cm of laying measurement looks 'urban', 'light', 'sharp', 'young', 'fashionable' and 'narrow' than that at the case of 7cm. When the laying measurement increases, the image of the sample looks more 'classical' and 'boorish'. The image of the sample 'light', 'sensuous' and 'young' at the case of sample of which laying measurements of the collar was 3cm. Second, at the case of sample whose laying measurements of the collar was 5cm, it was shown that the low location of gorge line made the image of the sample 'soft' and 'short'. On the other hand the image of the sample looked 'hard', 'keen' and 'long' by the high location of gorge line. Third, at the case of sample of which laying measurements of the collar was 7cm, low location of gorge line made the image of the sample look short. However, normal location of gorge line made the image of the sample looked 'fashionable'. The images of the samples of which laying measurements of the collar were 3cm, 5cm and 7cm, respectively, had changed with the angle of gorge line. First, the high angle of gorge line made the image of the sample 'rigid' and 'keen' at the case of sample of which laying measurements of the collar was 3cm. The high angle of gorge line made the image of the sample looked 'boorish' and 'singular'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.103-116
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to investigate the revision of the western-styled court costume in the Daehan Empire. For this purpose, 1) historical documents were reviewed, 2) one set of the court costume of Chigimgwan and another set of the court costume of Juimgwan were probed, 3) the photos of people wearing court costume were analyzed. The results of this study are as follows. First, the $14^{th}$ Imperial order of "official costume statute" had been revised in 1904, 1905 and 1907 through official gazettes. The last version of official costume statute enacted the more detail than the first rule. Second, the $15^{th}$ Imperial order of "official costume rules" had been revised in 1904, 1905, and transformed into official costume rules reform on $12^{th}$ Dec., 1906. The revision in 1905 made gold embroidery of court costume more simple than the first rule. The form of court costume was totally revised by change of the shape of adjusting on the top in the revised rule of 1906. Third, the revision in 1905 was actually manufactured and worn by the people because it can be confirmed in the relics of the court costume of $2^{nd}$ Chigimgwan in Yonsei University Museum, and the court costume of juimgwan in Kwangju Municipal Folk Museum. The relics made by the revision in 1906 had not been reported until now, but they can be confirmed in the photos left. Fourth, the sovereignity of the Daehan Empire was actually lost by $22^{th}$ Imperial family order which urged the servant having the title of nobility of Japan to wear the court costume of Japan. Therefore, the endeavor of the Daehan Empire which wanted to establish and develop the costume system of modern independent nation was discontinued.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.141-160
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• 2023

Controlling fashion waste throughout the entire product lifecycle is critical in a circular economy. This study explored the possibility of establishing a public recycling system for fashion waste. Since consumer interests and participation are essential, theoretical research, social-text analysis, and quantitative research were conducted to identify consumers' perceptions of the public recycling of fashion waste and circular fashion. Data were collected via an online survey among women in their 20-30's living in Korea, and 304 samples were used for data analysis. The results were as follows. First, consumers' perceptions of recycling fashion waste were composed of recycling difficulty, the need for public recycling, and the need for EPR. Circular fashion perception comprised favor, environment protection, attractiveness, economics, quality and hygiene risks, and lack of diversity. Second, the reuse-recycle attitude and need for EPR affected the favor of all types of circular fashion products. Third, environmental concerns impacted attractiveness, and the favor significantly affected the purchase intention of all types of circular fashion products. In particular, quality and hygiene risk negatively affected the purchase intention of used-fashion products, while attractiveness positively impacted the purchase intention of upcycled-fashion products. The results implied that discussing the public recycling system of fashion waste and EPR policy is imperative. The results also showed the need to classify different types of circular fashion products, such as used, upcycled, and regenerated fashion items, to examine consumers' perceptions. In addition, the recycling of the fashion waste scale developed in this study could be used for further research.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.9
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• pp.1583-1592
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• 2001

연구의 목적은 병행수입제도의 정책운용적인 관점에서 고가품 수입의 큰 비중을 차지 하고있는 럭셔리의류 브랜드를 중심으로 병행수입제도 도입 이후 현 시점에서 공정경쟁의 관점에서 병행수입의 문제점 추출과 대안을 도출함으로써 정책적 시사점을 제시하고자 한다. 연구 방법은 문헌조사와 in-depth 인터뷰를 실시하였다. 연구 결과 제도적 측면에서는 병행수입제도 도입 당시 병행수입과 직접 관련된 지적재산법과 독점규제법 사이에는 전용사용권자의 보호와 규제라는 입법적 목적이 서로 다른 이유로 병행수입 도입 여부에 대한 논란이 있는 것으로 나타났다 , 상표권 침해 기준의 모호, 세관절차에 있어서의 문제점 등이 추출되었다. 럭셔리의류 산업적 측면에서 병행수입제도는 수입물품의 가격인하를 선도하여 소비자 이익 증진에 기 여 하는 반면에 명품의 유통경로가 다양해짐에 따라 위조상품의 처벌실적 이 증가하고, 이월상품과overrun된 제품의 저가수입 등의 문제점이 야기되고 있다. 이에 대한 정책적 해결방안으로는 공정거래법의 개정을 통한 병행수입 허용기준의 보완, 지적재산권법 에 병행수입허용 규정 명시 , 소비자 관점에서의 병행수입 제품에 대한 정확한 정보의 전달 등의 내용 보완이 이루어져 야 한다. 본 연구의 시사점은 정책당국에게 경쟁조건의 Global Standard라는 견지에서 제도적 운용의 개선이 시급히 이루어져야 하는 논거와 토대를 제공하였다. 또한 전용사용권자와 병행수입업체에는 정보의 비대칭성에 의존한 판매전략을 지양하고 소비자 보호와 적 정 한 상표권 보호의 합리적 조화가 궁극적으로 생존의 핵심전략임을 인식시켜 줄 수 있는 계기를 마련해 주었다.가치관은 이들의 의복관심과 의복착용 그리고 구매에 지대한 영향을 미친다는 것을 알 수 있다.포제로 평가되었다. 모든 남자포제가 전통적, 순수한 이미지의 포제로, 철릭을 제외한 모든 포제가 단순한 이미지로 나타나 조선시대 남자 포제가 공통적으로 가지는 이미지는 단순하고 순수한 이미지를 가지고 있음을 알 수 있다. 3. 남자 포제의 시기별 복식이미지에서는 조선전기(철릭, 답호, 직령)의 포제는 관할성 요인이 높은 의례적인, 관할한, 특이한 이미지로 평가되었고 조선중기(도포, 창의)의 포제는 품위있는, 절제된, 풍성한 이미지로 평가되었으며, 조선후기(주의)의 포제는 활동적인, 단순한, 직선적인 이미지로 나타났다. 따라서 시대별 남자 포제의 이미지는 시대적 여건과 상황에 따라 변화되어 왔으며, 시대에 따라 추구하는 이미지가 달랐다는 것을 알 수 있이러한 논란의 해결방안으로 관세법 고시에 의한 우회적 도입을 결정한 정부의 방침에 대해 제도적 측면에서의 문제점으로 저작권 침해 기준의 결여다.lavonoid 함량의 판단지표로 활용될 수 있을 것으로 사료되었다.