• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.852-862
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• 2007

This study was to investigate the physical properties and the external characteristics of denim fabrics(100% cotton non-spun denim, 98% cotton/2% polyurethane spun denim) such as tensile strength, thickness and weight, flex stiffness, surface color and shrinkage. The results of the study were as follows. After examining the change of external characteristics of before and after washing finishing for denim fabrics, denim with bio washing had increased pliability compared to denim without washing finishing but the pliability of the denim did not increase according to the intensity or frequency of washing. The luminance change according to washing finishing was high in the order of bio stone bleach washing, bio stone washing, bio washing and denim without washing finishing and the surface color became brighter in accordance with the increase of intensity and frequency of washing finishing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.40-47
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• 2003

This paper discussed the assessment of hand of Tencel denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis. The subjective hand and the preference of Tencel denim fabrics were evaluated using the developed scale. The factors affecting consumers taste for Tencel denim fabrics were analyzed by statistics using SAS program. Also, the effects of cellulase treatment on the properties of Tencel denim fabrics were evaluated by the subjective hand measurements. The results are as follows: As the weight loss increased. fabrics were evaluated as finer, smoother, softer, warmer, more refined (surface properties), more compact and weaker (durability), more flexible, flossier, lighter, softer, thinner (sense of weight), more elastic, and less wrinkly (shape recovery). Fabrics were evaluated to have the dry touch regardless to the rate of weight loss (moisture properties). Overall hand preference of Tencel denim fabrics was in the side of not preferred. Hand of Tencel fabrics seems not to appeal to Korean people. Color preferences were not significantly different among five groups. The correlations between subjective hand and preference showed that fine, smooth, flexible, warm, refined, loose, soft, dry touches were preferred in Tencel denim fabrics.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.47-57
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• 2011

As the development of denim products using new differentiated materials plays an important role regardless of their target age groups, there is an increasing need for the development of premium denim designs for senior women using various materials. As part of the strategy to develop such a design for the senior generation, a market survey was performed regarding commercially available premium denim products in the market, and the current trends in the denim market were researched and analyzed to make use of the results in design development. In addition, a differentiated material, hybrid yarn using conjugated dyeing (HYCD) was applied to use several washing techniques capable of highlighting the unique features of denim clothing. The design of four items including a jacket, vest, capri pants and long pants were suggested. These items were differentiated from other products by emphasizing their details such as stitching and pockets. In light of the current consumer trend to select denim jeans on the basis of their fashion-ability (e.g., silhouette or color) rather than practicality or price, it is considered meaningful to develop high value added, premium jean products for the senior generation using diverse materials and details. At the same time, performing further studies designed to demonstrate the stability and reliability of the developed products through consumers' comparative assessment is required.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.144-151
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• 2002

The assessment of hand of the denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis will be discussed in this study. The subjective hand and the preference of the denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis were evaluated using the developed scale(Part I). The factors affecting consumer's taste for denim fabrics were analyzed by statistics using SAS program. Also, the enzymatic of hydrolysis on the properties of denim fabrics were evaluated by subjective hand measurements. The results are as follows; Regarding the surface properties and the weight, Tencel was evaluated to be the finest, the smoothest, the most flexible, the warmest, the most refined, the sleekest, the flossiest, the lightest the softest, and the thinnest among the four kinds of fabrics. The other fabrics in the order of cotton/Tencel, cotton, cotton/PP were evaluated to qualify the listed touches. Tencel was evaluated to be the loosest and the weakest among the four kinds of denim. Cotton was evaluated to have the driest touch. In addition, the fabrics were evaluated to be more elastic and less wrinkly in the order of Tencel > cotton > cotton/Tencel > cotton/ PP. For the hand preference, the fabrics were ranked in the order of Tencel, cotton, cotton/Tencel, cotton/PP, where tencel is the moat preferred. Cotton/Tencel and cotton/PP showed negative values in the hand and the color preference, meaning that the evaluators disliked their touches. Hand preference of enzyme hydrolyzed cotton/Tencel and cotton/PP denims do not seem to appeal to Korean people.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권8호
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• pp.1139-1148
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• 1999

This paper discussed the assessment of hand of denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis. The semantic differential scale established using the database collected from university students. Analyzing the subjective rating by common factor analysis with oblimin rotation five factors expressing the hand were induced. Factor one was the surface property related to the surface roughness or softness Factor two was the durability which was related to the compactness and bearing strength Factor three was the sense of weight which was related to the thickness and weight. The moisture related properties and the sense of shape recovery were the forth and fifth factors respectively. the evaluations on the surface property weight and moisture related properties were similar by men and women However the shape recovery and the durability were evaluated differently. Surface and weight related properties were important factors judging the hand of fabrics by both group.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제38권10호
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• pp.133-142
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• 2000

The subjective hand and preference of enzyme hydrolyzed denim fabrics were evaluated using the scale developed. The factors affecting consumer's taste for polyester fabrics were analyzed by the statistical technique. The effects of alkaline hydrolysis on the properties of polyester fabrics were evaluated by subjective and objective hand measurements. The lower the age of evaluators, the more sensitive their feeling. As the age decreased, evaluators felt fabrics become flossy and soft surface property is smooth, flexible, warm, refined. They didn't catch the sense of durability, moisture related property and sense of shape recovery. The lower the age, the fabric was more preferred. Women were more sensitive and consistent than men.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.975-982
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• 1996

This study was conducted to examine the fatigue phenomenon of mechanical properites in denim fabrics for slacks during repeated shear and tensile deformation by analysing the change in the basic dynamic properties of fabrics on the basic of experiments to obtain the basic data necessary to measure their fatigue. In addition, this study was carried out by allowing these denim fabrics at market to go through the repeated deformation under such different loads as 500 gf/cm2 and 1000 gf/cm2 by using a simulated fatigue tester, by calculating both dynamic properties and hand value (HV) of these fabrics with KES-F system and then by obtaining the THV through these calculated properties. The results are as follows: 1 The fatigue phenomenon of dynamic properties was remarkably shown by the repeated shear and tensile deformation, while the increase of hysterical plastic substances was also remarkable in these shearing and bending properties. 2. The elasticity values of tensile, bending and compression properties, such as, B and G were reduced: whereas RT and RC values increased. It was shown, then, that those fabrics lost their elasticity and became flexible and soft with the increase of fatigue. 3. The fatigue phenomenon of hand value also showed that those fabrics became soft in relation with the change of all dynamic properties, and that their performance was also change to flexible hand value. 4. TRhe degree of fatigue was also shown by the loads given to the repeated deformation. It was shown that the fatigue was higher for the tensile load of 1000 gf/cm3 than did the standard load of 500 gf/cm3 It is necessary, therefore, to consider the load in accordance with their usage when examining the fatigue phenomenon with respect to the dynamic properties of clothing materials. 5. The loads were nearly not influenced by the change in the general hand value tended to show a little of increase with the increase of fatigue, Based on those results, it seems that the fatigue phenomonon is related to the loads given to the repeated deformation.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.115-123
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• 2001

This paper discussed the assessment of hand of cotton fabrics by enzymatic hydrolysis. The subjective hand and preference of denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis were evaluated using the scale developed. The factors affecting consumers taste for denim fabrics were analyzed by the statistical technique. The effects of enzymatic hydrolysis on the properties of cotton fabrics were also evaluated by subjective hand measurements. The results are as follow; As the weight loss increased, evaluators thought that fabrics become finer, smoother, softer, warmer and more refined, and the sense of durability is sleeker and weaker, and the sense of weight is more flexible, flossier, lighter, softer, thinner. They didnt catch the change of moisture related properties according to the rate of weight loss. They also thought fabrics became more elastic, and less wrinklier as the weight loss increased. As the weight loss increased, the fabric was more preferred. The limited weight loss which changes the preference from \"dislike\" to \"like\" was 12.87%. The most preferred fabric was that with 12.87% of weight loss. It is supposed that the preference of fabric was related to the terms such as \"sum-se-ha-da\"(섬세하다), \"mai-ku-rup-da\"(매끄럽다), \"yoo-yon-ha-da\"(유연하다), \"too-bak-ji-an-da\"(투박하지 않다), \"chom-chom-ha-da\"(촘촘하다), \"gil-ki-da\"(질기다), \"kun-juk-goe-ri-ji-an-da\"(끈적거리지 않다), \"ku-kim-i-ka-ji-an-nun-da\"(구김이 가지 않는다).

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.114-121
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• 2010

Denim is one of the most frequently used fabrics for blue jeans. After washing denim fabric frequently changes its size and color. Salespersons recommended that after purchasing blue jeans customers should dry clean them once before washing. The aim of this study was to investigate to what degree washing with a household washing machine and dry cleaning affected the dimensions and the color of denim fabric. The denim fabric shrank greatly after the first laundering in warp direction regardless of whether it had been dry-cleaned or not. However, it shrank little from the second to the tenth laundering and after each number of dry cleanings. The thickness of the denim changed in the same way as the shrinkage occurred when the number of launderings or dry-cleanings increased. Although the indigo came out of the denim into washing liquor, both of the $L^*$ values and the $b^*$ values of the laundered and the dry-cleaned denim fabrics were lower than those of the control fabric. Darkening of the fabric after washing attributed to the shrinkage in warp; specifically the deep-blue warp yarns more spaced on the fabric face and the back. The $L^*$ and $b^*$ values of the dry-cleaned fabric decreased less than those of the laundered. The value of $a^*$ increased much less than the other values. Staining of the white cotton fabric laundered with the denim fabrics became less as the number of launderings increased. The degree of staining from the dry-cleaned denim was much lower than that of the laundered fabric.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.535-547
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• 2009

This study presented a making method of jeans pattern with high fitness after deriving the appropriate shrinkage rate by material and washing process. For this purpose of this study, 6 jeans have been tested after washing finishing and we turned out appropriate shrinkage rate by evaluating the exterior of jeans and usage satisfaction. Then, a making method of jeans pattern was presented after applying the optimized shrinkage rate. According to the result of the exterior evaluation of test jeans, all 6 jeans were rated high with scores close to 3.5. Following the evaluation of satisfaction of usage by physical movement, the highest ranking was in the order of walking with normal steps, back bending $90^{\circ}$, chair sitting, climbing stairs, and squatting. The shrinkage rate by physical area showed the highest score in the order of pants length, waist circumference, thigh circumference, knee circumference, hem circumference, hips circumference. In addition, the shrinkage rate was higher in warp direction than weft direction after washing finishing. As for the result of addition and reduction of pattern measurements by parts of jeans, waist circumference was 2.6${\sim}$5.2cm, hips circumference was 1.3${\sim}$4.2cm, thigh circumference was 0.8${\sim}$3.1cm and knee circumference was 0.7${\sim}$2.5cm. Also, hem circumference was 0.5${\sim}$1.8cm and pants length was 4.0${\sim}$6.2cm. That is, this results showed a wide range of addition and reduction according to material and washing finishing.