• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.31 no.9_10
• /
• pp.1475-1486
• /
• 2007

This study aims to develop knitted ware design to meet desire to express diversity in the modern fashion design so that we designed knitted ware by applying african geometric pattern and color to suggest new knitted ware design. We collect data about african texture pattern through technical books, publications, internet, and preceding research and visit and investigate the African museum. We investigate knitted Jacquard texture through preceding research and collect sample and data which is insufficient in the data source. The conclusions in this study are summarized as follows: First, African textile pattern is formulated with animism based on their religious view of art for a basis and African regards nature like animal and plant as a motive and interprets nature in the so that they can create symbolized geometric features that constitute African texture pattern. Those patterns is composed of extremely geometric figures so that they we fit to apply for color jacquad knit design. Second, color knitted jacquad can be distinguished by knitting method and status of knitting as 7 kinds of techniques such as Nomal, Bird'eye, Floating, Tubular, Ladder's back, Blister, Transfer Jacquard, and as a result of preceding research and knitting texture directly, jacquard technique makes different texture under same condition like consistent spinning rate and same crochet hook. Third, Bird'eye Jacquard used generally to make knitted ware and Ladder's back Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard used to make knitted ware light are fit to apply them to 7GG and 12GG machines. We design a cloak as a outer garment, a coat shaped like one-piece dress and a coat with hood by using Tubular Jacquard which can make thick texture and design a jacket, a skirt and a one-piece dress by using Bird'eye Jacquard. we make a light and flimsy one-piece dress by using Ladder's back Jacquard. Fourth, we apply the contrast of $4{\sim}6$ color and line and the contrast of texture and raw material to jacquard in order to emphasize texture property and visual property.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.1
• /
• pp.108-121
• /
• 2016

The objective of the study is to propose diverse knitwear designs by expanding the scope of the use and application of knit fabric. The study looked into diversifying the knitwear designs by using different types of zippers and with the combination of the diversity given by the zipper used in attachable and detachable method and the traditional North European knit patterns. One way of contributing to the diversity of fashion design is to use the zipper, as it can be implemented as an attachable and detachable fastening system. Also, the combination of North European traditional knit patterns with knit fabric can create a new and unique knit styling. The content of the research focuses on the history and definition of North European traditional knitwear based on the analysis of theoretical background, types, and characteristics of the knit patterns. Case studies were observed to show the application of knit patterns. The methods of the study used are preceding research along with research, collection, analysis of data, information from Korean and foreign literature, and Internet websites. During knitwear production, the two types of zippers were used in combination with four traditional Northern European knitwear Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy. The knitting techniques applied in the process were cable fisherman (5GG, SES 124CS) and Tubular Jacquard (3GG, 7GG, SES 122CS) for knitting machinery, and the technique of whole garment for hand knitting.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.46 no.2
• /
• pp.127-135
• /
• 2008

The study purpose was to increase Han-bok's convenience by changing materials while maintaining keep the traditional Han-bok style. For this purpose we surveyed actual Han-Bok wearers about the inconveniences of its form and design by combining knit with Han-bok. On the basis of this survey, we present a practical design for use in daily fife. Responding to the question about Jeo-Go-Ri(jacket), most respondents preferred a Han-bok which stressed elasticity by utilizing knit on Jeo-Go-Ri's front and back body line(JD1, JD4). For the question about ann holes, most respondents liked a design which substituted knit materials for Sam-hoi-jang(colorful strips) to ensure ease of use and shorten both the width and length of the breast-tie(JD2, JD3). For the sleeve edge, they preferred a design which solved the difficulties of rolling up the sleeve when working ($JD2{\sim}JD5$). Regarding the most inconvenient aspect of wearing Chi-mas(skirts), the respondents indicated tightening of the breast and an uncomfortable feeling due to the skirt length. This suggested that the waist of the vest should be lengthened to avoid the feeling of pressure(CD2, CD5). Regarding changes to the skirt shape the respondents preferred buttons and hooks rather than using skirt strings(CD4, CD5).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.6
• /
• pp.106-117
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to present a new vision for high value-added knit wear design by designing and producing knitted one-piece dress by digital textile printing which based on digital making a new industry, culture, and lifestyle in a new millenium. According as casual fashion is more and more popular, preferring knit wear, a key item of casual fashion, continues to increases. Therefore it is important to study knit wear design practically, try a new technique, and represent creative designs. As a method of the study, visual and textural data were investigated for theory of knit and DTP and a variety of knit design samples were illustrated Especially, to perform a study based on the industry, this researcher worked and experienced at J fashion Ltd., knit wear promotion company. Firstly, the theory of DTP was investigated and then 3 knitted one-pieces were designed and produced. The concept of design was digital geometry which represented chic and modern image in digital age. Target was city adult group from the late teens to the late twenties and keeping open mind and active lifestyle and enjoying the activity and unique characteristics of knit wear. This study has developed knitted one-piece design by DTP technique which has been generally applied to woven fabric. This is of great significant in opening a new way of high value-added knit wear design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.47-62
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate the knitwear preferences and purchase behaviors of university students. The subjects were 493 university students in Daejeon and Chungnam Provinces. The method of this study was a survey and measurement instruments were 34 stimuli which were manipulated pullover patterns and shapes and self-administrated questionnaire with knitwear design preference items and knitwear purchase behavior items. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, frequency analysis, Cronbach'${\alpha}$, t-test, ANOVA and $Sch{\acute{e}}ffe$ test using SPSS program. The results of the study were as follows. First, university students most preferred achromatic colors, pastel tones, solid patterns, and 100% cotton. Second, as for knitwear purchase behaviors, university students considered the esthetical factor to be most important among 4 dimensions (comfortable, esthetical, economical, and conspicuous factors) as important purchase criteria, and they used internet web sites for knitwear purchases. Third, there were significant differences in preferred pullover shape depending on neckline shape, neck depth, sleeve shape and clothing length. University students preferred the classic pullover design with V neckline, normal neck depth, set-in sleeves and normal length. Fourth, university students preferred the cloud motif and riding man motif among the 9 Baekje traditional motifs and one point small pattern on the left chest and crosswise bending pattern for pattern arrangement.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.103-119
• /
• 2011

This study set out to analyze the solid shapes of knit flared skirts, which are best represented in a 3-dimensional shape for all knit skirts, according to the seamed and seamless production method and to estimate the silhouettes of knit flared skirts based on the results. It also aimed to help with the introduction and spread of seamless weaving by revising and supplementing potential problems and provide findings that would be put to active use as basic data, thus contributing to the development of original knitwear and offering fundamental materials for the development of the knitting industry. A number of experimental knit flared skirts were made according to skirt angle ($90^{\circ}$ and $180^{\circ}$), gauge (7G, 12G, and 15G), and grain (bias, wale, and radial), including 12 kinds of seamed knit flared skirts and 6 kinds of seamless knit flared skirts. Using a three-dimensional shape measurement system, the investigator measured the cross-sectional shapes of their hemlines. The SPSS 12 Version program was used for statistical processing, and descriptive statistics such as mean and standard deviation were used to compare the seamed and seamless knit flared skirts in the measurements (measurement items) of their solid shapes according to the width, gauges, and grain directions. The central grain direction of seamless knit flared skirts was in a radial form and even hemlines, thus presenting a beautiful appearance and solid shape. The 3-dimensional shapes show that seamless knit flared skirts are superior to seamed ones. The research findings are expected to open a door for Korea's knitting industry to quickly respond to small quantity batch production and additional orders.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.163-173
• /
• 2011

The objective of this study is to examine the current status of manufacturing formal knit jackets for middle-aged women. Fifteen manufacturers specializing in formal knitwear brands were chosen as the study subjects, and interviews and questionnaires were used with patterners and designers. The questionnaire was composed of 27 items and began with general questions, such as how the jackets were manufactured. Specific questions, such as materials and sewing method, were also considered further on. The results are as follows: First, as for the structure of the knit jacket manufacturer, seven out of fifteen manufacturers directly manufactured knit jackets in their own factory, while the manufacturing was comprised of 20% woven jackets and 80% knit jackets for all manufactures. Second, as for the type of yarn mostly used in knitting the fabric for the jackets, satin yarn and wool were used mostly for F/W with Plain and Half Milano rib stitches as the type of knit with a gauge of 12G and 7G. Third, as for the margin between the product size of the target brand and the size of the body at the time of designing a knit jacket pattern, the investigation of the actual state of manufacturing showed that the margin at the bust was B+4.8cm, the waist was W+6.9cm, and the hip girth was H+5cm. Therefore, the bust and hip girth of the knit jackets were designed to be smaller than those of the bust and hip girth lines of non-flexible woven jackets. On the contrary, the waist measurement of non-flexible woven jacket was designed to be smaller than the knit jacket. It was found that the side line of the knit jacket was expressed with greater give as compared to that of the non-flexible woven jacket.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.12 no.2
• /
• pp.131-138
• /
• 2010

The purposes of this study are for current manufacturing status of the formal knit slacks for the middle aged women. As for the methodology, five manufacturers specializing in formal knitwear brands were subjected to the study, to examine the current manufacturing status of the knit slacks for the middle aged women, by conducting interviews and questionnaire with patterner and designer. The questionnaire items are 20 ones including general questions on manufacturing of the knit slacks, questions on materials used in manufacturing, and on sewing. The results are as followings : First, as for the manufacturing structure of the knit slacks manufacturer, all manufacturers directly manufactured knit slacks in their own factory, and the manufacturing was comprised of 10% in woven slacks and 90% in knit slacks. Second, as for the type of yarn mostly used in fabric knitting for the knit slacks, wool was used mostly for F/W, and acrylic or Saint yarn for S/S. As for the types of knit, Milano rib stitch and Half Milano rib stitch were used for wool and acrylic knitting, and plain stitch was used for Saint yarn. As for the gauge, 12G and 14G were used, whereas 7G, 12G was used for Saint yarn. Repair requests of the knit slacks were mostly on the length of the pants, such as shortening hip circumference and crotch length, or widening waist and hip area. The study shows that the size of knit slacks did not fit the body type of customers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.8
• /
• pp.98-108
• /
• 2016

Knitwear has been used as an active and functional clothing item due to its flexible and soft nature. Diverse design expressions have made knitwear into an essential fashion item for people today, who are constantly seeking for ways to display their individualism. The purpose of this study is to analyze the actual wearing conditions, and the preferred designs of knitwear for female college students in order to provide a baseline data, which can be used to develop knitwear designs for the subjects of the study. Survey by questionnaire of 135 female college students in 3 universities in Seoul were analysed. The results of the study are as follows: First, the most owned knitwear were sweaters and cardigans. Knitwear was viewed as soft and warm, as well as versatile. It was not restricted to certain sizes, and was comfortable to wear for different activities. Seound, the most preferred items were sweaters and cardigans. The most preferred styles were round neckline sweaters and open V-neckline cardigans. Third, the most preferred designs were plain designs with achromatic colors and wool-blended fabrics. The most preferred images were simple images. The most preferred fit was loose enough for little bit of room inside. Fourth, appropriateness and design of the knitwear were assessed during the purchasing stage. the most preferred method of purchase was purchasing via online stores after researching the knitwear through various channels, such as store visits and the Internet. The preferred price of knitwear was below 100,000 KRW. Fifth, the most common complaints were as follows: changes in the shape and quality of the knitwear after a wash, appearance of nap, and loose threads. In short, it is necessary for female college students to develop high quality knitwear with designs that can display individuality, while being simple.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.8 no.3
• /
• pp.17-25
• /
• 2006

We performed the objective sensibility evaluation on knitted fabrics by the following procedures: setting acrylic fabrics with knitted fabrics as basis, knitted five kinds of blended spun yarns and four kinds of twisted filament yams made by different twisting methods(the amount and direction of twist) then, measuring mechanical properties in the use Kawabata Evaluation System, obtaining hand values and total hand values. The results are as follows: First, A(F)/W acrylic/wool spun knits obtain high scores in bending, compressing, shear properties, MMD, and thickness among five kinds of acrylic-blended knit fabrics. A(S)/W acrylic/wool blended knit represented prominent values at compressing properties and thickness and so wool-blended yams demonstrated superior characters comparing other blended yarns. To contrast, acrylic/rayon blended knits showed low scores in bending properties, shear properties and thickness, so that it affects to total hand values. On the one hand, among the four kinds of acrylic filament knitted fabrics, they do not exhibit any notable dynamic differences such as tensile properties of knitted fabrics by the twist number and direction of filament yarns, bending, shear, compressing properties, weight and thickness except surface properties. Second, fabrics showed the most high score at FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) among the hand values. A(S)/W acrylic/wool blended knits obtaining the lowest values at SAHRI (crispness) outrank at total hand values, so that it was the predominant knitted fabric in objective sensibility evaluation. In total hand values, five kinds of acrylic blended knits got a higher score than four kinds of acrylic filament knits, and the amount and direction of twist did not influence on total hand values among the four kinds of acrylic filaments.