• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.163-169
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• 1991

Sixty seven regular wave tests were performed in a wave-current flume to investigate proper-ties of waves breaking on irregular slope profiles. In these tests, 1/10, 1/20 beach slopes were made using angles and plywoods. A little differences were found in such properties as breaker depth and height indices. runup for plane slopes comparing with other laboratory experiments. however. for smaller deepwater wave steepness, measured breaker height and depth data values were smaller than other formulas. On wave runup agreement was good between experiments and Hunt formula. however. measured data values were influenced by number of breaking. Significant differences were found in breaker depth index for plane and barred slopes. Wave height decay after breaking was found to be smaller than Dally et al.'s formula (1984).

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2000.09a
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• pp.120-125
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• 2000

연안역의 토지이용이 극대화됨에 따라 연안구조물이나 항만구조물의 축조가 활발히 진행되고 있다. 이를 설계하는데 있어서 무엇보다 중요한 것은 천해설계파 등과 같은 파랑변형계산을 얼마만큼 실현상과 근사시켜 재현할 수 있는지의 여부에 달려 있다. 지금까지의 천해설계파 산정에 있어서는 주로 단일 주파수와 단일 방향에 대한 규칙파해석이 수행되어져 왔으나, 실제해역에서의 파랑은 수많은 주파수와 파향, 파고들이 합성되어 이루어진 다방향 불규칙파랑이므로 실제 해역의 자연현상이 잘 표현되었다고 보기는 어렵다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.72-82
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• 1992

To accurately estimate nearshore current in shallow water regions. it is necessary to investigate the irregular wave transformation characteristics and radiation stress produced by random sea waves. This research is to investigate the application or the individual wave Analysis Method. the Component Wave Analysis Method and Representative Wave Analysis Method in the shallow water region. These methods were estimated by wave shallowing transformation when the waves propagate from deep water to shallow water region b)r generating regular waves, two component waves and irregular waves (Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu type). That is, the Indivisual Wave Analysis Method is to investigate from the viewpoint of shallow water transformation of wave statistical characteristics and their zero-down-crossing waves (wave height period and wave celerity). And the component Wave Analysis Method is to investigate from the view point of shallow water transformation of basic frequency component wave and their interference frequency component wave. In addition, this research is to compare the measured mean water level elevation with the calculated one from radiation stress of irreguar waves that is assumed in the three methods above.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.296-308
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• 2001

A fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation of Wei et al. is finite differenced by Adams predictor-corrector method. A spatially distributed source function and sponge layers are used to reduce the reflected waves in the domain and wale breaking mechanism is included in the equation. The generated waves are found to be good and the corresponding wale heights are very close to the target values. The shoaling of solitary wave and transformation of regular wave over submerged shelf were simulated successfully. The characteristics of breaking mechanism was identified through the numerical experiment and the results of two dimensional wave propagation test over the spherical shoal showed the importance of nonlinear wave model.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.185-193
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• 2010

In the present study, wave deformation and wave-induced current were calculated under the regular wave conditions using the Boussinesq model. The model results of the wave deformation showed good agreements with the preceeding laboratory experiments of others. The wave-induced current of the fully developed sea state was calculated. For field application of model, the preceeding field data by others in the real scale of the water area were compared, the numerical result of wave deformation showed a relatively good agreement with the field data. Although the numerical result of wave-induced current was underestimated over the longshore bar developed area, the Boussinesq model is generally suitable to predict the wave-induced current.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.307-317
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• 1993

The problem of sea wave transformation in the coastal zone taking into account effects of nonlinearity and disperison has been studied. Mathematical model for description of regular wave transformation is based on the method of nonlinear ray theory. The equations for rays and wave field have been produced. Nonlinear wave field is described by the modified Korteweg-de Vries equation. Some analytical solutions of this equation are obtained. Caustic transformation and dissipation effects are included in the mathematical model. Numerical algorithm of solution of the Korteweg-de Vries equation and its stability criterion are described. Results of nonlinear transformation of sea waves in the coastal zone are demonstrated.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.135-140
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• 1995

The procedure of wave energy dissipation due to breaking has been investigated with trains of the regular wave. To obtain the data for wave breaking and its deformation, experiments have been conducted by utilizing a horizontal step adjoining to a combined slope of 1/20 and 1/10. After breaking the wave height decreases by dissipation but attains a stable value at some distance from the breaking point Experimental results show that the stable wave is considerably affected by the wave period. The study gives the general form of stable wave height A new one-dimensional wave deformation model is proposed. being coupled with an approximated shoaling coefficient before wave breaking and the new energy dissipation term after breaking. It was compared with the experimental data. It predicts well the wave height deformation before and after wave breaking even on the abrupt change of the depth.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.253-260
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• 2005

Recently, the storms which hit Korean Peninsula are getting bigger, and the damages from the storms are wide spreaded. Thus, and approach with disaster prebention to offshore area and/or opened island area is neccessary. The existing wave design parameter was calculated with linear regular wave models inputting deep water design wave or wind sources. so it wasn't able to deal with wind-induced waves, interactions with waves, and redistribution of wave energy simultaneously. In this study, we made numerical simulation with SWAN(Simulation Waves Nearshore) Model which can consider development of waves and winds and their interference. The result from this model shows much different with those from existing model's. so the result from this study, especially in this modeling area, could be used for harbor design and coastal disaster prevention field in the future.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.30-38
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• 2009

In recent years, there's been strong demand for coastal structures that have a permeability that serves water affinity and disaster prevention from wave attack. The aim of this study is to examine the wave transformation, including wave run-up that propagates over the coastal structures with a steep slope. A numerical model based on the nonlinear shallow water equation, together with the unsteady nonlinear Darcy law for fluid motion in permeable underlayer and laboratory measurements was carried out in terms of the free surface elevations and fluid particle velocities for the cases of regular and irregular waves over 1:5 impermeable and permeable slopes. The numerical results were used to evaluate the application and limitations of the PBREAK numerical model. The numerical model could predict the cross-shore variation of the wave profile reasonably, but showed less accurate results in the breaking zone that the mass and momentum influx is exchanged the most. Except near the wave crest, the computed depth averaged velocities could represent the measured profile below the trough level fairly well.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.202-212
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• 2005

In the design of an of offshore structure located near an underwater shoal, the same amount of attention given to the wave height may have to be put to the wave induced current as well since some of the wave energy translates to the current. In the present study, two numerical models each based on the nonlinear Boussinesq equation and the linear mild slope equation are applied to calculate the wave deformation and secondly induced current around a shoal. The underwater shoal in Vincent and briggs' experiment (1989) is used here, and all non-breaking wave conditions of the experiment with various monochromatic and unidirectional or multidirectional spectral wave incidences are concerned. Both numerical models clearly showed wave induced currents symmetrically farmed along the centerline over the shoal. The calculated wave heights along a preset line also generally showed very nice agreements with the experimental values.