• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.296-305
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• 2017

Gallnuts are known to exert various pharmaceutical properties that include anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, and detoxifying effects. Gallnut extract is thought to be a particularly safe antimicrobial agent for textile application due to its natural origins. Hence, textiles were dyed with gallnut to develop multi-functional clothing material with no harmful effects. In this study, three kinds of cool touch woven fabrics, each comprised of 100% viscose rayon filament, viscose rayon filament/high absorption & quick dry (polyester) filament, and viscose rayon $filament/tencel^{(R)}$ spun yarn, were prepared and used as substrates for gallnut dyeing to especially develop functional cool touch textiles for summer clothing material. On the other hand, gallnut dyeing was conducted with mordanting with iron, lime or alum, which induced different colors on the dyed textiles. Dyed textiles were then investigated by SEM, FTIR, antibacterial test, and antioxidant test. Subsequently, gallnut dyed textiles indicated excellent antibacterial ability and deodorization activity regardless of mordant species. However, only gallnut dyed textiles mordanted with iron and alum showed significant antioxidant ability. In addition, the dyeing processes impair the cool touch feeling of the textiles by changing the micro structure of the textile surface.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1138-1150
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• 1996

This study was carried out to investigate the effects of dyeing on the mechanical properties, primary hand, total hand value (THV), and total appearance value (TAV) of woven fabrics. Cotton, PET, nylon, cotton/PET, and cotton/nylon woven fabrics were used as test specimens. Each of fabric was dyed under the same conditions as the fabrics for sportswear which consumers have selected as best. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB system and primary hand and THV were calculated by equation KN -201-MDY and KN-301-WINTER respectively. TAV was calculated by KN (eq. 10). The results were as follows: 1. In mechanical properties. tensile energy increased when cotton and two cotton mixture fabrics were dyed and decreased when polyester and nylon fabrics were dyed. Bending rigidity and shear rigidity decreased after all fabrics were dyed except nylon and cotton/ nylon mixture fabrics showing higher rigidities. Cotton fabrics showed higher surface roughness while other fabrics did lower values after dyeing. 2. In evaluation of primary hand and total hand , four primary hands of cotton fabrics so decreased after dyeing that THV were lowered. Numeri, Fukurami, and Sofutosa in primary hand of polyester, cotton/polyester, and cotton/nylon fabrics and Koshi and Numeri of nylon fabrics increased after dyeing and therefore THV of four fabrics were improved. 3. Cotton and polyester fabrics showed higher TAV due to their lower bending and shear rigidity, while nylon and cotton/nylon fabrics did lower values due to their higher shear rigidity. 4. It was proposed that the method of dyeing or treatment for minimizing the decrease of THV of cotton fabrics and TAV of nylon fabrics should be developed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.11 s.158
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• pp.1626-1635
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to search for comfortable protective clothing for waste incinerator workers. The experimental protective clothing came in two types: one whose outer side made use of polypropylene film, and the inner side, a non-woven rayon fabric processed with charcoal with a 10% density (CF): and one whose outer side made use of polyolefine and polyamide films, and the inner side, a non-woven polypropylene fabric (NNCF). Experiments were conducted on five healthy adult women whose average age was 21. These experiments were conducted at a climate chamber, in which the temperature and relative humidity were set below $28{\pm}1^{\circ}C\;and\;50{\pm}10%$, respectively. Measured were the rectal temperature, the skin temperature, the sweating rate, the weight loss, the heart rate, the blood pressure, the temperature, and the relative humidity of a microclimate and subjective sensation. These were measured within a period of 60 min, consisting of a 20-min stable period, a 20-min exercise period (walking exercise for 2 miles/hr on a treadmill), and a 20-min recovery period. Through this experiment, the differences between the human body's physiological reactions to CF and NNCF clothing, and the human body's comfort levels when wearing these, were determined.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.6 s.154
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• pp.981-991
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to determine the practicability of an experimental protective clothing by identifying the human body's physiological responses to it as well as the human body's comfort level when wearing it, particularly with the use of a processed charcoal material. The experimental protective clothing came in two types: one whose outer side made use of polypropylene film, and the inner side, a non-woven rayon fabric; and one whose inner side made use of a non-woven fabric processed with charcoal with a 10% density. Experiments were conducted on five healthy adult women whose average age was 21. These experiments were conducted at a climatic chamber, in which the temperature and relative humidity were set below $28{\pm}1^{\circ}C\;and\;50{\pm}10%$, respectively, and were measured within a period of 60min, consisting of a 20-min rest period, a 20-min exercise period, and a 20-min recovery period. Based on the results of this study, the efficiency of the processed charcoal material was reviewed, and a database requiring the production of more functional and comfortable protective clothing materials was established.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.5
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• pp.159-169
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• 2000

The purpose of this study Is to research the clothing and textiles recorded in Heikemonokatary which was written from 1131 to 1198. The research materials are 36 kinds of men's clothes and ornaments, 6 kinds of women's things, 10 kinds of colorings and 6 kinds of textiles. The results of this study are as follow : 1. There were many advanced warriors' clothes. Especially the helmets and armors were very gorgeous. The shapes of warriors' knives, arrows, shields were concretely described. The women's clothes were mostly unchanged from Nara period and Heian period. Women wore clothes on their heads when they went out. 2. One particular thing in color is that the brown color of that period was navy blue which is symbolic of victory. There were some textiles which was woven with the boiled silk thread in the latitude and the raw silk thread in the longitude. Besides, the blackening of teeth, the bobbed haler of boys, and the celebration of one's corning of age were described in the book.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.115-124
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• 2007

The cross-section of the polyester filament yarn has been modified to have a variety of shape for aesthetic, added functions and sensitivities, and other purposes. Transparent polyester filament of trilobal cross-section has unique optical properties with high anisotropic reflectivity and transmissivity. The monofilament yarns may be utilized to impart to the fabrics lustrous appearance along with unique color change in case differently dyed yarns are woven together. The color changes of the fabric specimens according to the changes in observation and lighting conditions were analyzed using a CCD camera and an image analysis software. The changes of color/luster of the fabric specimens were measured and analyzed based on RGB, $L^*a^*b^*,\;L^*C^*h,$ and the color distribution within a three-dimensional color space.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.429-439
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• 2000

This study was aimed to investigate the handle and mechanical properties of silk woven fabrics according to the fabric structure and yarn types 56 male and female students evaluated 16 black specimens with semantic differential scale of 20 hand adjectives. Mechanical parameters such as surface properties, bending properties and compression properties were tested using by KES-FS system. Data were analyzed through factor analysis, pearson correlation coefficient and t-test using PC SAS package. The results were as follows: The hand adjectives were grouped as 4 'surface roughness', 'flexibility', ;sense of thermal', and 'dryness'. 'Surface roughness' was highly sensed at satin fabrics of hard-twist yarn, noil yarn and spun yarn, while it was not at the fabrics of normal satin and twill at all. 'Flexibility' was reverse to 'surface roughness'. Thermal sense was felt highly at satin fabrics of noil-yarn, while low at plain fabrics of normal yarn. 'Dryness' was high at satin fabrics of hard-twist yarn and while it was low at normal satin fabrics. Predicted equations for subjective hand from mechanical properties of fabrics were developed using Stevens's law and stepwise regression and the coefficients of determination were high.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.7
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• pp.864-873
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• 2013

This study analyzed the correlation between the sources of the complaints and various factors such as gender, garment type, fabric type, textile material and washing methods for products. This survey utilized a total of 2,609 consumer apparel product complaint cases filed with the Korea Consumer Agency between 1997 and 2009. In regards to consumer liability: it was found that more incidents of failures due to carelessness were reported among men's clothes, knitted garments, cotton clothes, polyester clothes, wool blend clothes, pants, shirts, sportswear, and laundry only clothes. In regards to dry cleaner's liability: women's goods, woven clothes, silk clothes, cotton blend clothes, jackets, shirts and hanbok, and dry clean only clothes indicated problems more frequently. In regards to manufacture's liability: women's clothes, woven clothes, wool clothes, silk clothes, wool blend clothes, polyester blend clothes, formal dress clothes, jackets, hanbok, and dry clean only clothes indicated problems more frequently. This study provides consumers with information necessary to take preventive measures and basic information that can be utilized to improve the quality of production and services by understanding the sources of dissatisfaction, type of clothes found with problems, and the main causes of consumer complaints for garment products according to who is liable.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.889-896
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• 2016

This study aims to evaluate the hydrolytic activity of a commercial nitrilase and optimize nitrilase treatment conditions to apply eco-friendly finishing on acrylic fabrics. To assess the possibility of hydrolyzing nitrile bonds in acrylic fabric using a commercial nitrilase, the amounts of hydrolysis products, ammonia and carboxylate ions, were measured. The treatment conditions were optimized via the amount of ammonia. The formation of carboxylate ions on the fabric surface was detected by X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy and wettability measurements. After nitrilase treatment, ammonia was detected in the treatment liquid; thus, nitrilase hydrolyzed the nitrile bonds in acrylic woven fabric. The largest amount of ammonia was released into the treatment liquid under the following conditions: pH 8.0, $40^{\circ}C$, and a treatment time of 5 h. The formation of carboxylate ions on the acrylic woven fabric surface by nitrilase hydrolysis was proven by the increased O1s content measuring of XPS analysis. From comparison of the results of nitrilase and alkaline hydrolysis, the white index and strength of the alkali-hydrolyzed acrylic fabric decreased, whereas those of the nitrilase-hydrolyzed samples were maintained. The nitrilase hydrolysis improved the sensitivity of acrylic fabrics to basic dye similarly to alkaline hydrolysis without the drawbacks of yellowing and decreased strength caused by alkaline hydrolysis.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.932-948
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• 2021

Tartan, the woven, checked, and wool textile considered by many to be originally from Scotland, has in fact been in use in a range of forms across numerous cultures and during various historical periods. The characteristic checked feature is due to the assembly of different coloured threads in both warp and weft directions which intersect at 90 degrees in a combination known as a sett. For well over one hundred years, different setts and thus different colour combinations have been associated closely with different geographical regions within Scotland, as well as different clans or families. Tartan-type textiles have reached popularity at various times and those have often been a predicted fashion trend suggested, for example, by contributors to fashion gatherings such as Premier Vision in Paris. Often proposed designs are best considered based on tartan combinations rather than simple reproductions. Promotional terms such as "patched checks" or "textured checks" have been common, and often these have been derived from tartan-type constructions. This paper explores novel pattern design methods by identifying the underlying grid structures and proportions exhibited by various well-known tartan setts. The possibility of pattern development from tartan grids and their manipulations is thus the focus of attention. An insight into the methodology associated with the production of original pattern designs is thus provided.