• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.365-381
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• 2016

This study compared and analyzed current sleeve head products for men and women to develop sleeve head products for aesthetically-designed sleeves. Men and women's sleeve head products, suitable for sleeve caps, were designed and developed based on the results. The study results are as follows. First, men and women's sleeve heads for aesthetic jacket sleeves were designed with sleeve patterns in the background. Sleeve heads and upper sleeves were additionally designed to make 7-layers for men and 4-layers for women. Second, sleeve head patterns were designed so that men's would have a whole length of 48cm, an angle of $30^{\circ}$ and a width of 4.5-7.5cm; in addition, women's would be 40cm, $30^{\circ}$ and 4-5cm. Third, the same materials were used for men's and women's sleeve head products, and the background was made from 1-layer of soft non-woven fabric. As for the sleeve heads, 2-layers and 1-layer of non-fusible interlinings were used for men's and women's, respectively. In order to provide flexibility, the materials were designed in a bias direction. For upper sleeves, 1-layer of non-woven fabric and felt were used for men's, and 1-layer of felt for women's so that an empty space caused by easing contraction can be supplemented.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.7
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• pp.1064-1074
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to determine the purchasing behavior of knitted apparel consumers. Differences in knit product evaluation criteria according to consumer characteristics, such as gender, age, and interest in knit products also were reported. Male and female consumers participated in the study. Quota sampling was used and data from 463 questionnaires were analyzed. Descriptive statistics, $X^2$ analysis, factor analysis, Cronbach's alpha coefficient, t-test, one-way ANOVA, and post-hoc test were conducted. Results indicated that 65.4 percent of respondents did not discern between knits and woven products. Cardigan was the most preferred knitted product category. Most of the respondents purchased knitted apparel themselves, got product information at stores, spent less than 100,000 won for a single knitted product and went to department stores to buy knitted apparel products. Some 62.5 percent of respondents reported wearing the product less than four year. Consumers who are more interest in knitted apparel also considered such criteria as external attributes, quality, and aesthetics to be important. Respondents who discerned between knits and woven considered quality most important. Female respondents considered quality and aesthetic criteria more important; respondents in their twenties considered aesthetic criteria most important; and respondents in their thirties through fifties considered external criteria most important. Results of this study provide a basis for understanding knitted apparel consumers' purchasing behavior.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.128-137
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• 2000

A range of suede-like samples were collected including woven fabric type, nonwoven fabric type, and natural suede(sheep). The surface textures of these suede-like fabrics are rather diverse and different from the plain filament type fabrics since there are a lot of fine surface free fiber ends. Physical and mechanical measurements were carried using the KES equipments. Based on the Kawabata-Niwa translational equation, primary hand values and THV were calculated. Uniaxial tensile tests were performed. Using glossmeter, the reflectance pattern was analyzed at different incidence and receiving angles. In order to capture the surface images of the specimens, a CCD camera and frame grabber connected to a PC were employed. The reflectance uniformity of the images was measured with line-profile analysis and standard deviation values of the profile of the images were calculated. After the multiscale wavelet transfermation, correlation among the transformed image was analyzed at each scale. The reflectance uniformity of the natural suede was better than that of nonwoven type suede, while that of woven type suede was the last among the selected three samples(natural suede, nonwoven type, woven type). The correlation analysis among images has shown the possibility of using the wavelet transformation of the images as one of the measures to detect similarities among the textured specimens.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.898-908
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• 1999

This paper was aimed to identify the hand and sensibility of silk woven fabrics for neckties to find their relationships to the hand and purchasing preferences and to make their image scale. 56 male and female students evaluated 20 specimens with semantic differential scale of 21 hand and 25 sensibility adjectives. Data were analyzed through factor analysis pearson correlational coefficient t-test using PC SAS package. the hand adjectives were grouped as 4 surface property thermal property flexibility and dryness. The sensibility adjectives were modern classic character and natural,. The flat fabrics with warm hand displayed 'modern' sensibility but those with col hand show 'classic' The rough fabrics with warm hand showed 'natural' but those with cool hand showed 'character' The fabrics rated as high hand preference and purchasing preference showed soft and flat hand occuring 'modern' and 'classic' sensibility.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.67-71
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• 1984

This study has been carried out to investigate the differences of compressional properties in various wool fabrics which have different structural conditions in composing ratio of wool fabric, count of material yarn and cloth count of fabric. The result of the study are summarized as follows ; 1. The wool fabrics woven with lower with lower count yarn are superior to those woven with higher count yarn in the property of compression and resiliance of compression. 2. All wool fabrics are superior to polyester/wool blended fabrics in the property of compression and inferior in the linearity. 3. In general as the cloth count of fabrics increases, the percentage of compression decrease and the linearity increases proportionally in wool fabrics.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1989.06a
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• pp.87-88
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• 1989

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.637-646
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• 2016

The goal of this study is to provide basic data on developing circular knit basic pattern for women in their 20's. Production conditions of circular knit product pattern making among domestic women's apparel industry was researched, and collected data on sizes and ease amounts from woven and circular knit pattern were compared and analyzed. According to the result of the survey, product measurements adjusted to the actual body size fit for the brand's image were used, and the common problem among manufacturers and consumers regarding circular knit products turned out to be change in size and form due to stretching. For the basic pattern of circular knit, stretching quality was reflected in the woven basic pattern based on plain stitch(single knit) and then dart was removed and ease amount was reduced. The result of looking into size and ease amount about woven and circular knit torso & sleeve block shows that there is a significant difference among chest circumference, hip circumference, bi-shoulder length, interscye back, interscye front, scye depth, upper arm circumference and wrist circumference, and it was clear that circumference and width on the areas around the wrist tended to fit around the body more when circular knit was used instead of woven fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.118-125
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• 2009

Goryeong Jeesandong tombs No.73 from the 5th century located in Gyeongsangbookdo is the most representative remains of the Daegaya. They were excavated and examined by the Daedong Research Center for Cultural Properties. In this study, the textiles in the Goryeong Jeesandong tomb No.73 is identified and their features are examined through scientific analysis. Due to the fact that the remains were not treated for preservation, we were able to observe many samples under the microscope. Within the hemp textiles both hemp and ramie were made using s-twist threads and the thread count distribution is calculated to be 8.0${\sim}$20.0/$cm^2$. Among the silk, the taffeta was categorized into five types. First, there was plain woven silk which the thickness of the warp and the weft is the same and their rate of threadcount was the same. The second type was thin tabby which is spacious between threads. The third kind was woven by warp and weft which had very different thickness. The fourth type used two threads for each warp. The fifth kind used two threads for the warp threads and used thick threads for the weft for a modified plain weave, and it is the first of its kind to be found. Also, there was a compound weave with warp-faced compound weave among silk.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.922-927
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• 2015

Checks are best considered as a (visible) sub-set of grids, and each check consists of two assemblies of parallel lines, one superimposed on the other at ninety degrees. In the conventional textile context, one assembly of parallel yarns is superimposed on another at ninety degrees. These parallel lines caused by the yarns remain visually apparent in the finished composition. Commonly, checks are considered simply as a variety of woven textile and Scottish clan tartans, or plaids (common terminology for tartans in the USA), famously display a checked feature, using differently colored yarns in woven-textile form. Often the sequence of colours and the numbers of yarns used is equal in both warp and weft directions. Where this is the case, the tartan may be considered to be 'balanced' or 'regular', with the component yarns creating square units repeating across and down the fabric. Thus in balanced tartans, lengthways components have identical ordering, colouring and measured width to those used widthways. Meanwhile an unbalanced check lacks one or more of these attributes. This paper explores further the nature of Scottish clan tartans, using data collected from collections of rare tartans held at ULITA - An Archive of International Textiles at the University of Leeds.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.273-286
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• 2016

Protective coveralls are very uncomfortable to work in comparison to ordinary top and bottom separated clothing. A pattern maker has to consider the size of the human body and human motion range when designing protective coverall patterns. It is difficult to produce well-fitted coveralls because of the lack of readymade patterns despite the increased need for protective coveralls at various jobs. Patterns are decomposed by unsewing 18 products in the domestic market to provide the fundamental information on developing patterns for protective coveralls. The characteristics and differences of pattern types are compared after grouping patterns with information taken from the analysis of the shapes and measurements of patterns from the acquired patterns. The results of the analysis showed that on-market protective coveralls were less curved but much linear when compared to ordinary clothing patterns; however, the breasts and crotch circumferences were very loose and bulky, which is quite different from the other all-in one style working clothes. For the pattern shapes, patterns are classified into waistline-seamed and bustline-seamed types. The result of the hierarchical cluster analysis with 27 measurement variables were classified into four groups. Types by shape and measurements were related to each other; therefore, we expect the information of each type to be used in developing protective clothing patterns.