• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.51-60
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• 2010

This research works on the effects of drawing conditions on the physical properties of the drawn worsted yarns. The drawn worsted yarns were made by the yarn drawing system under various drawing conditions such as concentration of reducing agent, draw ratio, setting time of drawn yarn, and concentration of oxidizing agent. The drawn worsted yarns from 2/80Nm to 2/90Nm were obtained from 2/60Nm worsted yarns, the surface and cross-sectional shapes and tensile properties of these various specimens were measured and discussed with the various drawing conditions. The drawing of worsted yarn made constituent wool fiber scratched and made it changing to polygonal cross-sectional shape. The tenacity and modulus were increased with draw ratio and concentration of reducing agent. And tensile strain was increased with draw ratio, which decreased with concentration of reducing agent.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.101-105
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• 2005

This study surveys the warp and weft tension differences between projectile and air-jet looms and analyses the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment with relation of these loom characteristics using KES-FB system. The paper is divided by two parts. In the 1st paper, the worsted fabric is woven as 5 harness satin weave using 1/40 Nm sirofil worsted warp yarn and 1/30 Nm worsted weft yarn by projectile(Sulzer) and air-jet looms(Picanol PAT and OMNI), respectively. The weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position and weft tension of 3 kinds of looms. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.61-70
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• 2010

This effects of drawing conditions on the physical properties of the drawn worsted yarns were investigated. The drawn worsted yarns were made on the yarn drawing system with various drawing conditions such as concentration of reducing agent, draw ratio, setting time of drawn yarn and concentration of oxidizing agent. The dry and wet shrinkage, irregularity(CV%), thin and thick part, hairiness and abrasion resistance of these various specimens were measured and discussed in terms of various drawing conditions.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.272-281
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• 2010

This paper surveys the effects of drawing conditions of the worsted staple yarns on the mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics for highly aesthetical fabrics. The drawn worsted yarns were made on the yarn drawing system with various draw ratios under the fixed conditions of setting time, reduction and oxidation. The knitted fabric specimens were prepared on the 16 gauge circular knitting machine using these drawn worsted staple yarns. The tensile, shear, bending, compression and surface properties of these knitted fabrics were measured by KES-FB-AUTO-A system and also discussed with the drawing conditions. The tensile linearity, shear stiffness and bending rigidity decreased with increasing draw ratio. Any changes were not shown on the compressional properties with drawing conditions. But the friction coefficient of the knitted fabric on the course direction increased with increasing draw ratio, while there was no change according to the draw ratio on the wale direction.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.58-65
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• 2002

This study surveys the physical properties of Solo-spun fabrics related to the characteristics of Solo-spun yarns, which were described in previous reports. For this purposes, 6 kinds of fabrics were woven on the pilot loom. 3 kinds of Solo-spun yarns with the 3 level of twist mutiplier of Nm 1/30 and 3 kinds of conventional ring-spun yarns with the same levels of twist multipliers of the same yarn counts. The fabrics were of 2/2 twill and clear-cut finished. The physical properties were surveyed by means of KES-FB system. Solo-spun fabrics seemed to be stiffer than ring spun fabrics as showing the lower extensibility with higher tensile energy, the higher bending rigidity, and the higher shear rigidity. Solo-spun fabrics showed the lower value in surface friction coefficient and surface roughness. For fabric abrasion tests, Solo-spun fabrics showed the higher pill resistance.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.623-629
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• 2007

Recently, the $"Optim"^{(R)}$ which is the wool fibre with high lustre developed by CSIRO in Australia is imported and commercialized as a high sensible fabrics for garment. But the price of this $"Optim"^{(R)}$ fibre is very high so material demand and supply is not smooth. This study is aiming to develop the drawing technology of the worsted yarn with washable function, lustre and low production cost. For this purpose, drawing yarns are made using developed drawing machine and high sensible fabrics are woven using this yarns, and various physical properties of the fabric specimen are measured and analysed with garment characteristics such as sewability and formability. The final objective of this study is seemed to be achieved by making the high sensible fabrics using drawing worsted yarns with high lustre such as $"Optim"^{(R)}$ fibre.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.355-363
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate how the weave type, yarn twist fabric count and fiber content of the worsted fabrics affect the subjective sensation of the hand. Thirty worsted fabrics that were mainly used for the spring and fall ladies'suits at national brands were selected. Variables were such as four different kinds of weave types, plain, twill, satin and decorative; two levels of yarn twist, normal and high; various fabric counts; two different fiber contents, pure wool and Lycra contained. Image analysis and wavelet transform techniques were used to quantify the surface fiber, For surface characteristics, MIU, MMD and SMD were measured by KES-FB system. The Questionnaires with 23 adjectives were used for the subjective hand evaluation. Panels were So specialists of fashion or fabric designers and merchandizers. By Factor Analysis, six factors that represent the subjective hand were extracted. The relationship between these factors and structural variables were analyzed. Yarn twist was significantly related to the surface characteristics and resilience. Weave structure affected surface characteristics, volume/warm-cool feeling and resilience. Fabric counts showed relations with volume/warm-cool feeling and the fiber contents with volume/warm-cool feeling, resilience and elastic properties. MIU, MMD and SMD showed no relations with the surface fibers. Subjective sensation of surface characteristics was affected by SMD and surface fibers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.765-771
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• 2004

This study surveys the warp and weft tension differences among 3 types of rapier looms and analyses the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment with relation of these looms characteristics using KES-FB system. Raper is divided by two parts. In the 1st paper, the worsted fabric is woven as 5 harness satin weave using 1/40 Nm sirofil worsted warp yam and 1/30 Nm worsted weft yam by rapier looms such as FAST-R, THEMA-11-E and PICANOL-GTX respectively. The weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position and weft tension of 3 kinds of looms. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.233-240
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• 2011

A fineness range of 150 Nm-170 Nm has recently been applied to produce much finer wool products, so that processing techniques for the wool fabrics have been developed very rapidly. However, the worsted wool-like technique using polyester fiber has not been still implemented in general processing technique. Therefore, this research is to develop materials of side-by-side type with high finess, high shrinkage and stretchability. The mechanical properties of the produced fabrics were analyzed and the fundamental information were obtained for the new worsted wool-like products. The physical properties of a latent crimped yarns of side-by-side type with stretch function are analyzed. Also the mechanical properties of five kinds of fabrics are analyzed, which are produced with non-circular shape(+type) warp yarns of a twist of 1000(T/M) and with two kinds of latent weft yarns of a twist of 1000 T/M and DTY respectively.

• Proceedings of the Korean Operations and Management Science Society Conference
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• 1994.04a
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• pp.653-659
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• 1994

Human experts have the various own knowledges to be applied in specialized domains. The fact that knowledge itself becomes more critical in the context of textile knowledge with rapid development of new fibers, automated equipments, processes and applications. Diversity of worsted spun yarns, lack of human expertise, and inconsistency among manually generated process plans in consequency of adjustment machine parameters owing to change up raw materials frequently increase the necessity of developing computer aided process planning(CAPP) systems for spinning process. Expert systems offer one of techniques to develop CAPP systems which would behave in a knowledgeable manner. Expert systems are the problem-solving computer program that can reach a level of performance comparable to that of a human expert in some specialized problem domain. This paper is described as job justification module. The job justification module performs to consult with users on which worsted spun yarn manufacturing process planning under the various factors, e.g., raw materials, machine parameters and required yarn counts. Also, the developed module informs the various knowledges relevant process planning. The job justification module offers the control parameters at each process and includes the various standard process plans as database. These knowledges are generated by facts and rules within rule bases.