• 감성과학
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.299-306
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• 2007

본 연구에서는 남성용 소모직물의 품질향상을 위해 국외 유명 브랜드 소모직물의 물성을 분석하고 이를 바탕으로 국내 소모직물을 시생산하여 국외 소모직물과 비교 분석하였다. 분석방법은 의류소재의 객관적인 평가방법인 KES-FB system과 국내 복지 전문가 등에 의해 평가된 주관적인 평가방법인 Blind field test 방법으로 소모직물의 물성을 평가하여 두 측정 방법 간의 결과를 비교해 보고자 한다. 본 연구에서는 이태리와 영국 그리고 국내에서 생산된 7개 품종의 14개 소모직물 시료를 사용하였다.

• 감성과학
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.279-284
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• 2010

본 연구는 직물구조 디자인의 데이터 베이스에 대한 기초 연구를 수행한다. 이를 위해서 소모직물과 면직물들의 직물밀도계수가 월츠 교수와 피카놀 회사에서 제안된 커버팩터와 관련시켜 분석되고 토의된다. 또한 소모직물과 면직물의 직물밀도계수와 커버팩터와의 관계가 직물조직과 실의 번수에 따라 분석 토의된다. 끝으로 이들 천연직물들의 염색 가공공정에서의 공정수축률이 직물밀도계수와 함께 직물구조 디자인의 데이터베이스 시스템의 예비 연구로서 분석 토의된다. 그 결과는 소모직물과 면직물의 밀도계수, K 값은 600에서 1000까지 분포하였으며 이들 직물들의 직물밀도계수는 0.4에서 0.8 그리고 0.2에서 1.0의 범위에서 각각 분포하였다. 모직물의 가공축은 2%에서 10% 그리고 면직물의 가공축은 2%에서 20%까지 분포하였다. 그리고 모직물과 면직물의 직물밀도계수는 직물구조디자인에 대한 데이터 베이스의 개념으로서 직기와 직물구조 그리고 직축과 가공축에 따라서 분포됨을 보여주었다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.106-110
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• 2005

This research surveys the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment according to the loom characteristics and fabric positions with relation to the warp and weft weaving tensions on the projectile and air-jet looms, which is previously surveyed in the 1st paper. For this purpose, the grey fabrics are processed in dyeing and finishing processes. The mechanical properties of the finished fabrics are measured and discussed with relation to the warp and weft weaving tensions of projectile and air-jet looms and the variations of the fabric mechanical properties according to the fabric positions are also surveyed for investigating the homogeneity of the tailorability and fabric hand.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.233-240
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• 2011

A fineness range of 150 Nm-170 Nm has recently been applied to produce much finer wool products, so that processing techniques for the wool fabrics have been developed very rapidly. However, the worsted wool-like technique using polyester fiber has not been still implemented in general processing technique. Therefore, this research is to develop materials of side-by-side type with high finess, high shrinkage and stretchability. The mechanical properties of the produced fabrics were analyzed and the fundamental information were obtained for the new worsted wool-like products. The physical properties of a latent crimped yarns of side-by-side type with stretch function are analyzed. Also the mechanical properties of five kinds of fabrics are analyzed, which are produced with non-circular shape(+type) warp yarns of a twist of 1000(T/M) and with two kinds of latent weft yarns of a twist of 1000 T/M and DTY respectively.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권6호
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• pp.772-777
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• 2004

This research surveys the mechanical properties of worsted for garment according to the loom characteristics and fabric positions with relation to the warp and weaving weft tensions on the 3 types of rapier looms, which is previously surveyed in the 1st paper. For this purpose, the grey fabrics are processed in dyeing and finishing processes. The mechanical properties of the finished fabrics are measured and discussed with relation to the warp and weft weaving tensions of 3 types of rapier looms and the variations of the fabric mechanical properties according to the fabric positions are also surveyed for investigating the homogeneity of the tailorability and fabric hand.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.61-67
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• 2001

In this study, the fabrics were woven with worsted grams of Nm 2/72 and the structure of 5 harness satin on rapier and air-jet loom with different weft insertion mechanism and then fabrics were finished in the same processes. Also the physical properties were measured with KES-FB system and discussed with the characteristics of looms for comparing the difference of physical properties of the worsted fabrics which were woven with two different looms under the same structure. Pot shearing and compression properties, then showed similar behavior and the fabric finishing processes were seemed to affect much more than the difference of the loom types. For the surface roughness, the rapier fabrics showed higher irregularity than the air-jet fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권7호
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• pp.807-815
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• 1998

Functions of interlinings to the shell fabric are to improve the garment formability for a beautiful silhouette and elastic potential to the deformed fabric during wearing, and also are to enhance appearance and wearing properties of garment. The objective of this study is to analyse the thermal properties of nonwoven fusible interlining to the thin worsted fabric with various fabric structural parameters. For the purpose fo this study, eight specimens with various weft yarn twists and weft densities of thin worsted fabrics are prepared. Three nonwoven fusible interlinings with different structure which were made by Nylon/Polyester were used for adhering to the thin worsted fabrics. Thermal properties of these 24 adhesive fabrics fused with 3 nonwoven interlinings are measured by KES-F7 System for analysing the thermal suitability of nonwoven fusible interlinings to the thin worsted fabrics with various fabric structural parameters. And air permeability, which was measured by KES-F8-API, of 24 nonwoven adhesive interlining fabrics was also analysed and discussed with the various kinds of nonwoven interlinings and fabric structural parameters.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.272-281
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• 2010

This paper surveys the effects of drawing conditions of the worsted staple yarns on the mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics for highly aesthetical fabrics. The drawn worsted yarns were made on the yarn drawing system with various draw ratios under the fixed conditions of setting time, reduction and oxidation. The knitted fabric specimens were prepared on the 16 gauge circular knitting machine using these drawn worsted staple yarns. The tensile, shear, bending, compression and surface properties of these knitted fabrics were measured by KES-FB-AUTO-A system and also discussed with the drawing conditions. The tensile linearity, shear stiffness and bending rigidity decreased with increasing draw ratio. Any changes were not shown on the compressional properties with drawing conditions. But the friction coefficient of the knitted fabric on the course direction increased with increasing draw ratio, while there was no change according to the draw ratio on the wale direction.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.101-105
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• 2005

This study surveys the warp and weft tension differences between projectile and air-jet looms and analyses the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment with relation of these loom characteristics using KES-FB system. The paper is divided by two parts. In the 1st paper, the worsted fabric is woven as 5 harness satin weave using 1/40 Nm sirofil worsted warp yarn and 1/30 Nm worsted weft yarn by projectile(Sulzer) and air-jet looms(Picanol PAT and OMNI), respectively. The weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position and weft tension of 3 kinds of looms. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권6호
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• pp.765-771
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• 2004

This study surveys the warp and weft tension differences among 3 types of rapier looms and analyses the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment with relation of these looms characteristics using KES-FB system. Raper is divided by two parts. In the 1st paper, the worsted fabric is woven as 5 harness satin weave using 1/40 Nm sirofil worsted warp yam and 1/30 Nm worsted weft yam by rapier looms such as FAST-R, THEMA-11-E and PICANOL-GTX respectively. The weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position and weft tension of 3 kinds of looms. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.