• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.357-363
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• 2011

In this study, the antioxidative effects and inhibitory activities on tyrosinase of Rheum undulatum (R.undulatum) L. extracts were investigated. 50 % ethanol extract, ethyl acetate and aglycone fractions of R. undulatum L. were used in experiments. The DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) scavenging activities ($FSC_{50}$) of R. undulatum L. extracts was lower than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol, known as a typical antioxidant. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of aglycone fraction on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay showed the most prominent effect at a concentration of $0.265\;{\mu}g/mL$. The cellular protective effects of extract/fractions of R. undulatum L. on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were increased in a concentration dependent manner ($1{\sim}50\;{\mu}g/mL$). Especially, aglycone fraction in $10\;{\mu}g/mL$ concentration showed the most protective effect among extracts (${\tau}_{50}$, 757.0 min). The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$, $11.20\;{\mu}g/mL$) on tyrosinase of aglycone fraction was much higher than arbutin ($226.88\;{\mu}g/mL$), known as a whitening agent. These results indicate that R. undulatum L. extracts can be used as antioxidant. Particularly, aglycone fraction of R. undulatum L. showed superior antioxdative activity and high inhibitory effect on tyrosinase. Therefore, aglycone fraction of R. undulatum L. could be applicable to new functional cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.57-65
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• 2012

In the present study, the antioxidative properties, inhibitory activity on tyrosinase, and active components of Eriobotrya japonica (E. japonica) leaf extract were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) of extract/fraction of E. japonica leaf was in the order 50 % ethanol extract ($22.625{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction (6.75) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction (5.06). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of fraction/extracton ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescenceassay were investigated. $OSC_{50}$ of the ethyl acetate fraction, deglycosylated aglycone fraction, and ethanol extract were 0.75, 0.79, and $1.61{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. The cellular protective effects of E. japonica leaf extract on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The protective effects of extract/fraction of E. japonica leaf were increased in a in a concentration dependent manner ($5{\sim}50{\mu}g/mL$). Especially, ${\tau}50$ of ethyl acetate fraction at concentrations of $10{\mu}g/mL$ and $50{\mu}g/mL$ showed the most protective effects at 390.8 min and 1471.5 min. The inhibitory effect ($IC_50$) on tyrosinase of E. japonica leaf extracts was higher than arbutin, known as a skin-whitening agent. The order of inhibitory effects was acetate fraction ($75.25{\mu}g/mL$) < 50 % extract (74.1) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction (43.35). TLC of the ethyl acetate fraction showed 7 bands (EJL 1 - EJL 7). HPLC of the aglycone fraction exhibited 2 peaks, kaempferol and quercetin. The amounts of kaempferol and quercetin were 53.7 and 46.3 %. respectively. Therefore, The amounts of kaempferol and its glucoside were a little bit higher than quercetin and its glucoside in E. japonica leaf extract. Accordingly, these findings suggest that extracts/fractions of E. japonica leaf can function as antioxidants in biological systems, especially skin exposed to UV radiation, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. Thus, the extract/fraction of E. japonica leaf may be used in novel functional cosmetics as antioxidants against skin photoaging.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.4
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• pp.297-304
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• 2012

In this study, the antioxidative effects and inhibitory activities on tyrosinase of Lindera obtusiloba Blume (L. obtusiloba Blume) extracts were investigated. 50 % ethanol extract, ethyl acetate and aglycone fractions of L. obtusiloba Blume were used in experiments. The DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) scavenging activities of ethyl acetate fraction of L. obtusiloba Blume was higher than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol, known as a typical antioxidant. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities of extract and fractions of L. obtusiloba Blume on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were similar to L-ascorbic acid, well known as a strong antioxidant. The cellular protective effects of 50 % ethanol extract and ethyl acetate of L. obtusiloba Blume on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were increased in a concentration dependent manner ($1{\sim}25{\mu}g/mL$). Ethyl acetate fraction in $10{\mu}g/mL$ concentration showed the most protective effect among extracts (${\tau}_{50}$ = 361.0 min). The inhibitory effects on tyrosinase of ethyl acetate and aglycone fractions were higher than arbutin, known as a whitening agent. These results indicate that L. obtusiloba Blume extracts can be used as antioxidant, and could be applicable to functional cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.34-38
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• 2017

Myelophycus simplex Papenfuss, a type of brown algae, is known to be majorly distributed in along the southern coast of Korea and Japan. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of M. simplex Papenfuss methanol extract (MSPME) on melanogenesis in ${\alpha}$-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells. Melanin contents of B16F10 melanoma cells were decreased by 27, 41, and 59% in a dose-dependent manner, upon MSPME treatment at 100, 300, and $500{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. Tyrosinase activities in B16F10 melanoma cells were decreased by 18, 49, and 61% in a dose-dependent manner, upon MSPME treatment at 100, 300, and $500{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. MSPME suppressed expression of tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1, tyrosinase-related protein-2, and melanocyte-inducing transcription factor in B16F10 melanoma cells. Concentration of $50{\mu}g/mL$ of MSPME especially induced greater decreases in tyrosinase activity, melanin contents, and melanogenic enzyme protein expressions. This results indicate that MSPME inhibits melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity, and M. simplex Papenfuss extract may be an ideal candidate as a skin whitening agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.4
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• pp.295-302
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• 2013

In this study, the antioxidative effects and inhibitory activities of unripened fruit extract of Rubus coreanus Miquel (R. coreanus Miquel) on tyrosinase were investigated and the potential applicability as a cosmeceutical ingredients was evaluated. All experiments were performed with 50% ethanol extract, ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction of unripened fruit extract of R. coreanus Miquel. The DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) scavenging activites ($FSC_{50}$) of 50% ethanol extract (6.56 ${\mu}g/mL$) and ethyl acetate fraction (6.14 ${\mu}g/mL$) of unripened fruit extract of R. coreanus Miquel were higher than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol (8.98 ${\mu}g/mL$), which is known as a typical hydrophobic antioxidant. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of 50% ethanol extract (0.83 ${\mu}g/mL$), ethyl acetate fraction (0.84 ${\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction (1.13 ${\mu}g/mL$) of R. coreanus Miquel on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were higher than L-ascorbic acid (1.5 ${\mu}g/mL$), which is known as s typical hydrophilic antioxidant. The cellular protective effect of extract and fraction of unripened fruit extract of R. coreanus Miquel on the rose bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes was increased in a concentration dependent manner (1 ~ 50 ${\mu}g/mL$). And 50% ethanol extract in 50 ${\mu}g/mL$ showed the most protective effect among extracts (${\tau}_{50}$ = 296.3 min). The inhibitory effects on tyrosinase of ethyl acetate and agylcone fractions were higher than arbutin. These results indicate that unripened fruit extracts of R. coreanus Miquel can be applied to antioxidant scavenging ROS including radical as an alternative whitening agent to replace arbutin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 2013

In this work, comparative study on antioxidative activities of extracts from Glycyrrhiza uralensis (G. uralensis) produced in Korea and in China and Glycyrrhiza glabra (G. glabra) produced in Uzbekistan was conducted. Among three origins, 50% ethanol extracts (21.15 ${\mu}g/mL$), ethyl acetate fraction (29.15 ${\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction (3.26 ${\mu}g/mL$) of G. uralensis from Korea showed the higher free radical (1,1-phenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) than extracts from other origins. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of extracts from three origins on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay 50% ethanol extract (1.00 ${\mu}g/mL$) and ethyl acetate fraction (0.34 ${\mu}g/mL$) of G. uralensis from China showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of G. uralensis and G. glabra extracts on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. 50% ethanol extract and aglycone fraction of G. uralensis and G. glabra extracts from three origins showed cellular protective effects in a concentration dependent manner (5 ~ 50 ${\mu}g/mL$). Aglycone fraction of G. uralensis from Korea (${\tau}_{50}$ = 847.4 min)especially showed cellular protective effects four times higher than that from China (${\tau}_{50}$ = 194.3 min). These results indicate that G. uralensis and G. glabra extracts, which have been used as whitening agent, could be applicable to functional cosmetic ingredient as a natural antioxidant. Judging from the prominent cellular protecitve effects, it is concluded that G. uralensis and G. glabra extracts can protect the skin from $^1O_2$ and various ROS induced by UV.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Applied Pharmacology
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• 2007.11a
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• pp.79-92
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• 2007

Oxidative stress have known to be a risk factor for the degenerative processes and closely related to a lot of diseases. It is well established that antioxidants are good in protection and therapeutic means against oxidative damage. There is increasing interest in natural antioxidants and many natural antioxidants have been found and utilized as the possible protection for various diseases and skin aging. We have screened natural antioxidant agents for cosmeceuticals, nutraceuticals, and drugs as therapeutic and preventive means against oxidative stress, and have developed a number of novel antioxidants from various natural sources. A novel melanin synthesis inhibitor, Melanocin A, isolated from the metabolite of a fungal strain Eupenicillium shearii F80695 inhibited mushroom tyrosinase and melanin biosynthesis of B16 melanoma cells with $IC_{50}$ value of 9.0 nM and MIC value of $0.9\;{\mu}M$, respectively. Melanocin A also exhibited potent antioxidant activity by scavenging of DPPH and superoxide anion radicals. UV was found to increase the level of hydrogen peroxides and other reactive oxygen species (ROS) in skin tissues. This increase in ROS may not only alter the structure and function of many genes and proteins directly but may also modulate their expressions through signal transduction pathways and, ultimately, lead to skin damage. We investigated the effect of Melanocin A on UV-induced premature skin aging. Firstly, the effect of Melanocin A on UV-induced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-9 expression in an immortalized human keratinocyte cell line, HaCaT in vitro was investigated. Acute UV irradiation induced MMP-9 expression at both the mRNA and protein levels and Melanocin A suppressed this expression in a dose-dependent manner. We then investigated UV-induced skin changes in hairless mice in vivo by Melanocin A. Chronic exposure of hairless mouse dorsal skin to UV increased skin thickness and induced wrinkle formation and the gelatinase activities of MMP-2 and MMP-9. Moreover, Melanocin A significantly suppressed UV-induced morphologic skin changes and MMP-2 and MMP-9 expression. These results show that Melanocin A can prevent the harmful effects of UV that lead to skin aging. Therefore, we suggest that Melanocin A should be viewed as a potential therapeutic agent for preventing and/or treating premature skin aging. Terrein is a bioactive fungal metabolite isolated from Penicillium species. Terrein has a relatively simple structure and can be easily synthesized. However, the biologic effects of terrein are comparatively unknown. We found for the first time that terrein potently inhibit melanin production in melanocytes and has a strong hypopigmentary effect in a spontaneously immortalized mouse melanocyte cell line, Mel-Ab. Treatment of Mel-Ab cells with terrein (10-100 mM) for 4 days significantly reduced melanin levels in a dose-dependent manner. In addition, terrein at the same concentration also reduced tyrosinase activity. We then investigated whether terrein influences the extracellular signal-regulated protein kinase (ERK) pathway and the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), which is required for tyrosinase expression. Terrein was found to induce sustained ERK activation and MITF down-regulation, and luciferase assays showed that terrein inhibits MITF promoter activity in a dose-dependent manner. To elucidate the correlation between ERK pathway activation and a decreased MITF transcriptional level, PD98059, a specific inhibitor of the ERK pathway, was applied before terrain treatment and found to abrogate the terrein-induced MITF attenuation. Terrein also reduced the tyrosinase protein level for at least 72 h. These results suggest that terrain reduces melanin synthesis by reducing tyrosinase production via ERK activation, and that this is followed by MITF down-regulation.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.4 s.54
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• pp.289-293
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• 2005

Nowadays there are many sun protection cosmetics including organic or inorganic UV filter as an active ingredient. Chemically stable inorganic sunsEreen agents, usually metal oxides, we widely employed in high SPF products. Titanium dioxide is one of the most frequently used inorganic UV filters. It has been used as pigments for a long period of cosmetic history. With the development of micronization techniques, it becomes possible to incorporate titanium dioxide in sunscreen formulations without whitening effect and it becomes an important research topic. However, there are very few works related to quantitations of titanium dioxide in sunscreen products. In this research, we analyzed amounts of titanium dioxide in sunscreen cosmetics by adapting redof titration, reduction of Ti(IV) to Ti(III) and reoxidation to Ti(IV). After calcification of other organic ingredients of cosmetics, titanium dioxide is dissolved by hot sulfuric acid. The dissolved Ti(IV) is reduced to the Ti(III) by adding aluminum metals. The reduced Ti(III) is titrated against a standard oxidizing agent, Fe(III) (ammonium iron(III) sulfate), with potassium thiocyanate as an indicator In order to test accuracy and applicability of the proposed method, we analyzed the amounts of titanium dioxide in four types of sunscreen cosmetics, such as cream, make-up base, foundation and powder, after adding known amounts of titanium dioxide $(1{\sim}25w/w%)$. The percent recoveries of the titanium dioxide in four types of formulations were in the range between 96 and 105%. We also analyzed 7 commercial cosmetic products labeled titanium dioxide as an ingredient and compared the results with those of obtained from ICP-AES (Inductively Coupled Plasma-Atomic Emission Spectrometry), one of the most powerful atomic analysis techniques. The results showed that the titrated amounts were well coincided with the analyzed amounts of titanium dioxide by ICP-AES. Although instrumental analytical methods, ICP-MS (Inductively Coupled Plasma-Mass Spectrometry) and ICP-AES, are the best for the analysis of titanium, it is hard to adopt because of their high prices for small cosmetic companies. It was found that the volumetric method presented here gat e quantitative and reliable results with routine lab-wares and chemicals.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.391-400
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• 2015

In the present study, 50% ethanol extract, the ethyl acetate and aglycone fraction were prepared from mate (Ilex paraguariensis) and their antioxidative ability was evaluated. The yields of extract and fractions were 32.0, 4.48 and 0.82% per dried powder, respectively. Free radical scavenging activities were performed by 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay and total antioxidant capacity was estimated using luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. Free radical scavenging activities ($FSC_{50}$) of 50 % ethanol extract, ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction were 8.83, 5.84 and $6.05{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. Their total antioxidant capacities ($OSC_{50}$) were similar to that of L-ascorbic acid ($1.72{\mu}g/mL$), known as a prominent water soluble antioxidant, in all extracts and 50% ethanol extract ($1.03{\mu}g/mL$) was the most effective. The cellular protective effects on the $^1O_2$-induced cellular damage of erythrocytes were evaluated and the results showed that all extracts were significantly higher than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol at $10{\mu}g/mL$. Especially, the ${\tau}_{50}$ value of aglycone fraction was 5 times higher than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol at $10{\mu}g/mL$ and $50{\mu}g/mL$. The inhibitory effects of the ethyl acetate and aglycone fractions on tyrosinase were similar to arbutin, known as the whitening agent in cosmetics. These results suggest that the extracts of mate have the applicability as antioxidant and anti-aging cosmeceutical ingredients.