• 복식
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• 제61권10호
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• pp.55-71
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• 2011

Court ladies' tasks were largely divided into two. First, if there is a royal family event, such as the royal family's wedding or feast, they followed the rules and regulations of work division that was defined in "Gyeonggukdaejeon". Secondly, during normal days, they were divided into Jimil (至密), Chimbang (針房), Subang (繡房), Sesugan (洗手間), Saenggwabang (生果房), Naesojubang (內燒廚房), and Oesojubang (外燒廚房) and took charge of female work that was needed daily at the palace including serving, cooking, laundry, needlework, embroidery, cleaning, and nurturing. This organization was operated by different palaces such as the daejeon(king's palace), daebijeon(queen dowager's palace), junggungjeon(queen's palace), or sejagung(prince's palace). Court ladies were selected among female slaves of the government office or naesusa(a ministry of royal household properties). Although commoners were forbidden to be selected, they sometimes became court ladies voluntarily for financial reasons or because of the will of their parents. Court ladies had different appearances according to the division they belonged to. The court girls of Jimil, Chimbang, and Subang wore saeangmeori while court girls from other places had braided hairstyles. At Jimil, they wore all different kinds of chima(skirt) and jeogori(jacket). Usually, court ladies wore navy chima, jade jeogori, green gyeonmagi(top jacket) with the uyeomeori hairstyle. When working in the evening, they wore pink jeogori or yellow-green jeogori, navy chima with the jojimmeori hairstyle for easiness to stay up all night and work. Navy chima was worn by court ladies. If there was a royal family event upper court ladies wore uyeomi, black or green wonsam, and stewards wore garima and dangui.

• 복식
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• 제63권5호
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• pp.18-34
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• 2013

This paper examines the costumes of 18th century Joseon dynasty that appears in the writings of Lee Ok(李鈺, 1760~1815). The main characteristics that can be inferred about the clothing from his writings are as follows. 1) It suppose that the color of first grade(一品) official uniform was purple. The popular color for the bride's ceremonial dress was red. 2) It was likely that only bridesmaids or married women were allowed to wear Jokduri(ceremonial coronet). 3) White clothes were only preferred in Yeongnam-udo, whereas other regions mainly wore blue, which differs from the national preference for white clothes that was prevalent in the end of the Joseon dynasty. 4) Once cotton was harvested, it only took 5 days to convert it into cotton cloth and be sold on the market. Cotton cloth was one of the most important products during the latter half of the Joseon dynasty. It was common practice in markets to sell expensive costume materials as counterfeits or fungible goods with the intent to cheat. 5) The buddhist monk's hat is various that short cylinder form(短桶帽) and jade or gold headband button(玉圈 金圈) attached shape, etc. Consequently, Lee Ok's writing is a suitable reference for researching Joseon dynasty clothing, since it includes detailed and various descriptions of everyday clothing worn by strict noblemen, which is difficult to find elsewhere.

• 조명전기설비학회논문지
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• 제23권12호
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• pp.217-223
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• 2009

계약전력 산정 방법에서 계약전력 환산율은 전력용변압기의 용량을 산정하는데 매우 중요한 기준이다. 본 연구에서는 AMR(자동검침시스템) 시스템에 의해 일반용전력사용고객(사무실, 상가, 호텔, 병원, 예식장, 기타)을 대상으로 각 수용가의 계약전력과 최근 5년 동안의 최대전력을 조사하였다. 조사된 자료의 전체 특징과 중심적인 경향을 알아 보기 위해서 평균값 등의 특징파라미터를 분석하였고, 회귀분석을 통한 선형적인 방법과 비선형적인 방법으로 그 경향을 분석하였다. 계약전력환산율과는 용도별로 다른 특성을 나타내고 있음을 확인하였으며, 전기사용고객의 특성을 고려한 계약종별 기준에 대한 체계적인 검토가 필요하다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.85-102
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• 2015

This study aimed to develop dress torso patterns with both aesthetic and functional qualities that fit for women in their 20s. In order to develop dress torso patterns, wearing tests were done. By collecting drafting methods of the patterns through literature study and the survey of wedding dress manufacturers, four kinds of dress torso patterns were selected. The existing dress torso patterns have no or very small ease in chest, waist, and hip circumferences. As a result of wearing tests of these four existing dress torso patterns, drafting methods of dress torso patterns that have the best satisfied values close to optimum zero were selected; the first and second research dress torso patterns were developed by modifying and supplementing items that had noticeable difference through the Wilcoxon rank sum test with a selected measured value and a best satisfied value of zero; and deduced a drafting method for the final developed dress torso patterns by a wearing test of the second developed dress torso patterns. Distinctive aspects of drafting methods of the final developed dress torso patterns were that ease for each area was given differently by considering a functional quality and a chest circumference instead of a bust circumference was applied to reduce influence by the size of breast in neck and armhole areas, and a back bust level. Back neck breadth was made wider and front neck breadth was made less narrow due to a recent change of age 20s female adults' shoulder and back shape.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.150-164
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• 2021

This study analyzed the punk style shown in the movie Sid and Nancy (1986), based on a true story. The purpose of this study was to prove that the styles of the main characters had some discriminatory mode as an anti-fashion with not only the value system of the subculture but also the diverse cultural codes applied, revealing their identity. The scope of this study covered the 1970s when Sid died while a member of the Sex Pistols, but was limited to the analysis of Sid and Nancy's costumes. As theoretical background, this study reviewed the preceding studies, specialty books, movie-related sites and their postings, and on-line news reports. To analyze the movie costumes, relevant scenes on the DVD were captured, and thereby, the scenes were categorized per character and style but a performance scene was categorized Sid and Nancy as same punky wedding style because of intention spirituality to marriage by director, and thereupon, 17-cut images were used for the analysis of main characters' styles. Sid's style consisted primarily of black leather jackets, symbolic T-shirts, and jeans, whereas Nancy's style implied a punk style with added fetish styles. Even in the same punk style, their identities were symbolized through bricolage. Through this, subculture styles, were able to confirm that in addition to the value system of subculture, discriminatory modes as anti-fashion with various cultural codes played a role in revealing their identity.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제29권6호
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• pp.79-88
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• 2020

During the Joseon Dynasty, the rituals that were celebrated in the palaces were mainly held inside the palace and in the courtyard of the palace. Mats were spread on the floor of the place where the ritual was held. The mats spread in the Joseon Dynasty rituals divided the space in various ways, and in particular, they were spread in a certain form in the spaces of royal wedding, customs, and court banquet. Mats were the primary physical element that divided the royal ritual space of the Joseon Dynasty, and functioned to elevate the general space to the ritual space. In the ritual space, mats were spread inside the palace, and divided the courtyard of the palace into left and right in a symmetrical form to distinguish the hierarchy of the participants. Mats with special and white patterns were spread in the external ceremonial space and mats with flower and colorful patterns were spread in the internal ceremonial space. This was the subdivision of the Confucianism's male-female division through the mat. The pattern of the mat that divided the space of the royal family elders also meant longevity to reflect the filial thoughts of the Confucianism through the mat. Mats were a physical element for subdividing the royal family and the participants in the hierarchy of the space where the ritual is held, and it also performed a subdividing function between the royal participants. In other words, in the Joseon Dynasty ritual space, mats were temporarily spread while the ritual is being celebrated and functioned to elevate the space to a ritual space. It is confirmed that the fact that the mats were temporarily spread to divide the space into the hierarchies according to the status and were subdivided into colors and patterns to perform the function to reflect the subdivision of the royal family according to Confucianism and the statue of filial piety in the ritual.

• 역사민속학
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• 제52호
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• pp.197-250
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• 2017

관혼상제를 다룬 의례 매뉴얼의 출간과 필사가 일제강점기에 범람을 이루었다. 그러한 의례 매뉴얼은 대개 의례준칙, 사례서, 축문집, 종교예식서, 일용예식서 등 5종으로 분류될 수 있다. 이런 5종의 의례 매뉴얼은 목표와 내용이 서로 달랐지만, 당대 일반인들의 일상적인 민속과 종교의 형성에 깊은 관련이 있다는 점에서 상통하는 면이 있다. 당시 의례 매뉴얼은 엘리트 지식인의 지적인 성과물이기보다는 전근대의 예서와 문집에서 폭넓게 발췌하고 시대적 변화에 맞춰 첨삭을 가하는 수준에서 편집 발간된 것이며, 근대 인쇄술의 원조로 특정 계층에 제한되지 않고 폭넓게 유통되었다. 의례 매뉴얼은 깊이보다는 넓이를 강조하고 체화보다는 참조를 중시하는 민속지식을 대량으로 보급시키고 확산시켰다고 할 수 있다. 따라서 의례 매뉴얼에 대한 질적인 분석 못지않게 중요한 것이 그것이 얼마나 일반인들에게 참조되었는지를 판단하는 양적 이해라 할 수 있다. 일제강점기 의례 매뉴얼의 이해를 통해 당대는 물론 이후 20세기 민속의례 및 민속종교의 방향과 특질을 읽어내는 통로가 마련되길 기대한다.

• 영어영문학
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• 제57권1호
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• pp.171-190
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• 2011

Shakespeare's plays deploy an interesting array of food signs in a way to illuminate the historical process of what Stephen Mennell has described as "the civilizing of appetite"-a process in which the changes of food choices and eating habits took place in response to the changes in people's way of life and personality structure over the long-term modern period since the middle ages. Shakespeare's plays suggest that the civilizing of appetite in early modern England was heavily affected by the forces of social mobility as well as the nascent market economy. The Capulets' costly preparation of Juliet's wedding banquet is a showcase of conspicuous consumption which was a structural necessity for the ruling class in Shakespeare's time. Some fifteen years later, the same kinds of foodstuffs are included in a shepherd's shopping list for the sheepshearing festival in Winter's Tale. This is a significant coincidence to prove that food was an important source of emulation and contest among different social classes; and that the rich diet of the upper class gave impetus to social mobility. The Elizabethan subjects, especially among the elite noblemen, were interpellated by the ideology of food that equated the quality of food and the eater's social identity. Faced with bankruptcy as a consequence of his extravagant consumption habit, Bassanio in The Merchant of Venice testifies to the gripping ideology of food onto early modern people, while Poor Tom in King Lear presents a comic parody of the rich people's conspicuous waste. Also in Coriolanus and The Merry Wives of Winsor, Shakespeare uses food as a metaphor for class-motivated social struggles.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.272-288
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to classify the types of decoration techniques used in women's Chima and Jeogori in traditional Hanbok catalogs from 2010 to 2020, and to analyze the frequency of each type. The method of this study is as follows. This study first investigated the transition of modern Hanbok and decorative techniques by analyzing and classifying such work in previous studies. Based on this, the technique of decorating the Jeogori and Chima that appeared in the traditional Hanbok catalog of the study period was analyzed. The results of the study are as follows. In the case of Jeogori, in the first half of 2010, the decorative technique of a relatively large size was used, and the decorativeness tended to be strong. However, in the late 2010s, the number of decorative techniques used in Jeogori has decreased, and the size of the decorative technique has become smaller and more concise, leading to a tendency to understated decoration. In the case of Chima, techniques to express natural texture by processing threads or fabrics themselves were mainly used rather than techniques to add decoration to the surface, and techniques to express various surface texture tended to develop toward the late 2010s. The change in the decoration technique of Jeogori and Chima appears to be a combination of social, cultural, and economic factors such as a change in consumption culture and a reduction in the wedding market.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.348-365
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to develop Korean clothing designs that can satisfy future consumer's needs based on the elements extracted through the content analysis method in a study on the design elements expressed in traditional outfits in the 2010s. To this end, data analyzing Hanbok in wedding magazines were used, and after extracting design elements, research methods for empirical design development were used. After subclassifying the major design elements, factors with a steady increase in frequency and appearance rate were identified. Through this, five elements capable of aesthetic sampling were extracted by complex expression methods and expressed in a total of seven combinations. The types extracted from the design elements are items, silhouette, top shape, skirt shape, skirt length, mixed items with increasing frequency. In the element of color, the adjacent color harmony, which showed the highest frequency of color, and the white-blue harmony, which showed an increase among them, were extracted. When using materials, top and skirt have similar usage rates of the same and different materials, so both contents were extracted, and many patterns were arranged in the top and the whole, but these three were extracted because there were increasing cases where there were no patterns. In the case of decoration, embroidery, pintuck, sakdong, applique, lace, ribbon on the top, silver foil and print on the skirt were extracted. Through this study, it was possible to propose a future Korean costume design model.