• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.493-504
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• 2022

This study aims to gain a deeper understanding of the fashion styles of underground rappers in China and South Korea. Due to rappers' fashion influence on modern fashion trends, research on rapper fashion has been conducted steadily in the field of apparel. Qualitative research methodologies including literature research and in-depth interviews were the primary techniques used to solve the research questions. In-depth interviews were conducted with 10 Chinese underground rappers and 10 Korean underground rappers to reveal and explore their fashion style and view of fashion. As a result, the participants' fashion styles were categorized into four styles: authentic hip-hop fashion style, popularized hip-hop fashion style, easy sports casual style, and trendy street style. Rappers from both countries consider that their identity as rappers can be demonstrated through their hip-hop fashion style. The influence of hip-hop culture and the popularity of rap music differs between China and Korea. It affects not only the rapper's musical characteristics, but also their fashion style. While Korean underground rappers' fashions style is trendier, Chinese underground rappers' fashions style displays stronger characteristics of hip-hop fashion. Due to the public's negative view of rappers, some Korean underground rappers intentionally try to hide their identity by wearing a fashion style that differs from the authentic rapper image. Understanding the fashion styles of underground rappers in Korea and China is expected to assist in predicting future hip-hop culture and rapper fashion trends.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.8 s.99
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• pp.1-14
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• 2005

This study aims to find out how the deconstruction and combination of genres is being carried out in modern art and design, to look at the role of art and fashion in modern culture through a study of genre hybrid tendencies in fashion, and to reposition fashion as a tool that sensitively reflects changes in society and culture. The heightening of deconstructionism, gadgets, high technology which provide a background for the fall of all art and design styles and genres and the overlap and diffusion of different styles, is the fundamental reason behind genre hybrid. In the genre hybrids of fashion, the four characteristics of nomadism, amusement, wearability and noticeability were especially strong. As a result of studying the genre hybrids in modern fashion, I found out that the idea of wearing in fashion was made easier with the deconstruction and combination of fashion with different genres. It was also apparent that the genre hybrid phenomenon will continue in the future due to the continuous development of technology.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.111-126
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• 1999

Apparel purchase behaviors were investigated for the high school girls grouped by attitude toward fashion. Differences in attitudes toward fashion were also investigated among the groups determined by demographic characteristics. Data were collected by a self-administered questionnaire survey to 600 high school girls living in Seoul, and 480 were used for the data analysis. Cluster analysis, Chi-sguare analysis, ANOVA, and Duncan\`s multiple range test were used for data analysis. Technical school students and those who spending higher amount of monthly allowances showed favorable attitudes toward fashion. Based on the attitudes toward fashion, respondents were classified into 3 groups : fashion-oriented(32.3%), fashion-conformed(47.3%), and unconcerned(20.4%). Among the 3 groups, the Fashion-oriented tended to make purchase decision for clothing based on there own, or peer\`s opinions, to use personal sources for information search, to spend more money for clothing, and to consider design and brand names as the most important criteria when purchasing apparel products than the less fashion-oriented did. Among clothing styles popular to students, the most appropriately perceived for student wear were semi-formal style, and the least appropriate ones were wearing bold colored and patterned underwear for the purpose of showing out. Most of the popular styles among high school girls were perceived less than appropriate student\`s attire.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.97-108
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• 1999

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\boxDr$Eigamonokatary$\boxUl$ focus on Color and Dying. $\boxDr$Eigamonokatary$\boxUl$is a novel described the life style of Royal Court from 883 till 1107. The discoveries of this paper were as follows. 1. The materials of colors and dyeing which are described in this book reflect the features of the age well. We can assume that the point of its chic might rest on colors and dyeing than design or pattern. 2. Sine they enjoyed wearing lots of clothes which are in the same design but in different colors with the underwear. When color coordinate was fashioned we call them "Kasanenoirome". This type of dressing was in vogue in the age of Heian when there were several devices of showing chic in dressing. 3. The color of clothes at that time might represent one's official position the black the highest class following the purple the red and the blue or green. The black color was made from the purple or blue. The Japanese Emperor would wear reddish yellow or blue clothes according to the nature of his office work. 4. Some of Japanese fashion might be influenced by Korean styles in the respects of coordinating colors and adjusting Buddhist fashion etc. It is required that the turther studies of comparing Korean fashion styles with Japanese ones should be deepened. deepened.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.96-109
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• 2016

This objectives of this research was to look into the actual state of fashion wearing purchase and makeup purchase to recognize the interrelationship between fashion and makeup styles by selecting words used for fashion image and cosmetic style. Such study can offer basic materials for choice of makeup style by each fashion style. Most information on fashion and cosmetics were obtained through the internet. However, a lot of information on cosmetics were also obtained through TV. Therefore, if fashion companies use both internet and TV for advertising, more effect on purchasing might be obtained. The design and color are important standards for selecting clothes. However, the quality and price of clothes are essential standards for purchasing cosmetics. Therefore, for fashion companies, they need to pay more attention to design and color. However, for cosmetic companies, they need to take notice of quality and price. When image words were extracted, fashion images showed the following words: natural, romantic, elegance, casual, and avant-garde, while makeup images showed romantic-casual, elegance, avant-garde, and natural. Regarding the interrelationship between fashion style and makeup style, natural and casual fashion style were harmonized with natural makeup while romantic fashion style was associated with romantic makeup. The fashion style of elegance and avant- garde was associated with elegance makeup. Therefore, similar images were found between fashion and makeup styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.3-17
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• 1998

The aim of this thesis is to clarify the application of Derrida's 'Deconstruction' theory on the contemporary costume. Derrida's theory of 'Deconstruction' took into the 'decentring' concept which deconstructed the subjects i.e., Occidentalism, Elitecentrism, logocentrism, mancentrism etc.; it deconstructed the dichotomy that had been expressed in the traditional occidental metaphysics, by raising the isolated ones such as the Orient, sub-culture, ir- rationality, madness, woman etc. Summarizing the conclusion of this thesis as follows, 1. The impact of 'Deconstruction' from the inside is to be seen in the principles of intertextuality of the costume, therefore it has shown the bisexual costume by interacting gender, and the costume by mixing time, place and occasion. 2. $\ulcorner$Dis$\lrcorner$ deft phenomena which shows the concept of escape from the center were presented as decentring, dislocation, discomposition, disorder. 3. Undecidability principle resulted in the undecidable presentation in the wearing styles such as wearing, unwearing, layering. Contemporary costume by the 'Deconstruction' from the inside regards costume as a dynamic text, which has attempted the interaction with the other genres. It deconstructed the teleology of the costume function, and it accepts all the various aesthetic principles.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.15-26
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to research development process of commedia dell'arte and Korean masque that have similar figure, grasp similarity and difference and find the meaning of masque and costume in both theatrical arts. Italian commedia dell'arte and Korean masque are performed by wearing standardized mask and costume depending on the role. As common points, first, the characters have unique names and possess unique features of character, costumes, masks and playing styles. Through the feature, the audiences can understand role of actor and the actors can devote themselves to their role by wearing masks and costumes. Second, although background plays an important role in commedia dell'arte, the role of costume is more important. Because masque speaks for poverties of general people indirectly, the costumes of general people were used as they are. As different point, first, most of Korean masks cover entire face, restricting speech of actor but masks of commedia dell'arte cover only upper part of face and expos mouth and chin of actor, enabling actors to express various emotions depending on the character. Second, priority is given to personality of actor and origin area and current silhouette, material and color that changed by century is reflected in the costume of commedia dell'arte but silhouette, material and color of the Age of Joseon Dynasty were adopted in Korean masque.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1063-1071
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• 2006

Fetishism, which has been a taboo for a long time, is stimulating the modem people's emotions by being reborn as a fashion trend by a number of designers like Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood and Claud Montana. Especially, Jean Paul Gaultier, called the bad boy of the fashion industry, is leading the Paris fashion world by expressing his unique fetish elements with his fantastic and uncommon ideas-males' wearing of skirts, wearing underwear like outer garments. Therefore, this study is aimed at investigating how his fetishism is shown in his works, understanding his fetish fashion world in the modem fashion and offering a new stepping-stone for fashion designers to actively participate in new fashion areas. Its results are as follows. First, it was found that the sensual designer Jean Paul Gaultier has been expressing his unique fetish elements in his collections like the following three styles of fetishism-fetishism by physical emphases, fetishism by items, fetishism by material. Second, the symbols of voluptuous beauty reflecting his own fetishism could be found in his movie costumes, license areas and given plots. Third, the work describing Jean Paul Gaultier's fetishism as a fetish image with the concept of Fantasy of Missing was evaluated as a successful work to express an internal sexual desire.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.79-97
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• 2008

This paper is a study on the Bisotun relief of the Achaemenid Dynasty in ancient Persia. The Bisotun relief consists of the relief and the inscriptions which was completed through 7 phases. The inscriptions describe how King Darius suppressed the rebels in Elamite, Babili and ancient Persian languages. This relief is a work during the early Darius period and it describes using the traditions of Mesopotamia in terms of the theme and structure. In terms of structural features, it follows the typical features of the Assyrian arts, the beard and the shape of hair style. On the other hand, the smooth curves used to describe the creases of the clothes and the supple body was not a typical oriental feature. It was known to be because of Greek influence from their communications. It also showed the dressings of the clans that made up the Achaemenid Dynasty through the 9 rebellions wearing clothes unique to their clan and the inscription that was inscribed with the name of the clans. The clothing and ornaments they were wearing can be divided into two groups, the clans that wore one-piece style Persian dress and clans that wore tunic jackets and trousers which is a typical dressing style of the nomads.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.51-61
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to investigate the effects of clothing style and color of male casual wear on image perceptions and age evaluations. $4{\times}2$ (top color${\times}$trouser color) and $2{\times}3{\times}2$ (clothing style${\times}$clothing hue${\times}$clothing chroma) factorial designs were used as the experiment designs. Photoshop program was used to manipulate the clothing colors after creating photos of models wearing experiment clothing for stimulus. Subjects were 280 female college students from Seoul region and each subject responded to two stimuli. Factor analysis showed four factors of images of male casual wear; sociability, conspicuousness, softness and masculinity. Polo shirts were evaluated higher in sociability and softness than jumpers and nary blue trousers were evaluated higher in masculinity than beige trousers. High chroma clothing was assessed higher in sociability and conspicuousness than low chroma clothing. High chroma red jumpers displayed very sociable feel and low chroma blue jumpers displayed the lowest sociability. High chroma male clothing resulted in younger age perception but age was evaluated young when a black shirt was worn under the jacket when wearing a low chroma jacket.