• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.101-111
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• 2010

Characteristics of large-height swell-like waves that repeatedly occurred on the Korean East Coast in winter season were analyzed by using the wave observation data and the meteorological data. Based on the results of the data analysis, it was demonstrated that the swell-like waves have been generated due to the long-lasting strong northeasters in the East Sea, which were formed as a result of the low pressure trough in the vicinity of the extratropical low pressure system that advanced to East Sea from the China inland with decreasing its central pressure. Among the recently occurred events of the swell-like waves, the characteristics of the two events in October 2005 and 2006 were predominantly wind waves. Meanwhile, the one in February 2008 seems to be occurred by the initial wave growth due to wind waves followed by the secondly increase of the wave height due to longer-period swell.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2004.08a
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• pp.217-225
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• 2004

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Ulsan Harbor and Ulsan New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Ulsan Bay. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macro scale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the development could be easily neglected.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.286-297
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• 2018

In the present study, wave measurements at KOGA-W01 were analyzed and then the numerical wind waves simulations have been conducted to investigate the characteristics of wind waves in the Yellow sea. According to the present analysis, even though the location of the wave stations are close to the coastal region, the deep water waves are prevailed due to the short fetch length. Chun and Ahn's (2017a, b) numerical model has been extended to the Yellow Sea in this study. The effects of tide and tidal currents should be included in the model to accommodate the distinctive effect of large tidal range and tidal current in the Yellow Sea. The wave hindcasting results were compared with the wave measurements collected KOGA-W01 and Kyeockpo. The comparison shows the reasonable agreements between wave hindcastings and measured data, however the model significantly underestimate the wave period of swell waves from the south due to the narrow computational domain. Despite the poorly prediction in the significant wave period of swell waves which usually have small wave heights, the estimation of the extreme wave height and corresponding wave period shows good agreement with the measurement data.

• Proceedings of the KSRS Conference
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• 2008.10a
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• pp.240-242
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• 2008

In the present article, we analyze airborne Pi-SAR (Polarimetric-Interferometric SAR) X-band images of ocean waves around the Miyake Island at approximately 180 km south from Tokyo, Japan. Two images of a same scene were produced at approximately 40 min. interval from two directions at right angles. One image shows dominant range travelling waves, but the other image shows a different wave pattern. This difference can be caused by the different image modulations of RCS and velocity bunching. We have estimated the dominant wavelength from the image of range waves, and from the wave phase velocity computed from the dispersion relation (though no wave height data were available), the image intensity is computed by using the velocity bunching model. The comparison of the result with the second image at right angle strongly suggests the evidence of velocity bunching.

• Proceedings of the KSME Conference
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• 2004.11a
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• pp.1617-1622
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• 2004

Two-phase flow of liquid and gas through pipe lines are frequently encountered in nuclear power plant or industrial facility. Pressure waves which can be generated by a valve operation or any other cause in pipe lines propagate through the two-phase flow, often leading to severe noise and vibration problems or fatigue failure of pipe line system. It is of practical importance to predict the propagation characteristics of the pressure waves for the safety design for the pipe line. In the present study, a theoretical analysis is performed to understand the propagation characteristics of a weak shock wave in a bubbly flow. A wave equation is developed using a small perturbation method to analyze the weak shock wave through a bubbly flow with comparably low void fractions. It is known that the elasticity of pipe and void fraction significantly affect the propagation speed of shock wave, but the frequency of relaxation oscillation which is generated behind the shock wave is not strongly influenced by the elasticity of pipe. The present analytical results are in close agreement with existing experimental data.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.20-30
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• 2023

Modeling a nonlinear ocean wave is one of the primary concerns in ocean engineering and naval architecture to perform an accurate numerical study of wave-structure interactions. The high-order spectral (HOS) method, which can simulate nonlinear waves accurately and efficiently, was investigated to see its capability for nonlinear wave generation. An open-source (distributed under the terms of GPLv3) project named "HOS-ocean" was used in the present study. A parametric study on the "HOS-ocean" was performed with three-hour simulations of long-crested ocean waves. The considered sea conditions ranged from sea state 3 to sea state 7. One hundred simulations with fixed computational parameters but different random seeds were conducted to obtain representative results. The influences of HOS computational parameters were investigated using spectral analysis and the distribution of wave crests. The probability distributions of the wave crest were compared with the Rayleigh (first-order), Forristall (second-order), and Huang (empirical formula) distributions. The results verified that the HOS method could simulate the nonlinearity of ocean waves. A set of HOS computational parameters was suggested for the long-crested irregular wave simulation in sea states 3 to 7.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.29-35
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• 2011

In order to effectively control waves in a coastal zone, Multi-Cylinder Piles have been suggested as economic structures. A numerical analysis was conducted using the Delft-3D: WAVE module based on SWAN, which considered wave shoaling and refraction. Moreover, irregular waves were used to investigate the hydrodynamic characteristics of the wave interaction with the structure. In this paper, a numerical analysis was carried out to research the effect of wave control through a wave height analysis concerning an existing, concrete wave breaker and multi-cylinder piles placed at the same location. As a result, the effect of the wave control is shown using the wave breaker, multi-cylinder piles, and existing data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.51-57
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• 1990

Based on second-order Stokes wave and parabolic approximation, a refraction-diffraction model for linear and nonlinear waves is developed. With the assumption that the water depth is slowly varying, the model equation describes the forward scattered wavefield. The parabolic approximation equations account for the combined effects of refraction and diffraction, while the influences of bottom friction, current and wind have been neglected. The model is tested against laboratory experiments for the case of submerged circular shoal, when both refraction and diffraction are equally significant. Based on Boussinesq equations, the parabolic approximation eq. is applied to the propagation of shallow water waves. In the case without currents, the forward diffraction of Cnoidal waves by a straight breakwater is studied numerically. The formation of stem waves along the breakwater and the relation between the stem waves and the incident wave characteristics are discussed. Numerical experiments are carried out using different bottom slopes and different angles of incidence.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.446-456
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• 2007

Numerical analyses of stem waves, the interaction between incident and reflected waves of obliquely incident regular waves along a vertical wall in a constant water depth, are presented. For the numerical model of the analysis, the two-layer Boussinesq equations developed by Lynett and Liu(2004a,b) are employed. Numerical results are compared with both laboratory measurements and those obtained using parabolic approximation model. The overall comparisons between the results from the two numerical models and the experiments are good. However, the two-layer Boussinesq model is more accurate than the parabolic approximation model as the angle of incident waves increases. In particular, the higher harmonic generation due to the wave nonlinearity is captured only in the Boussinesq model.

• Proceedings of the Korean Geotechical Society Conference
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• 2005.03a
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• pp.338-345
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• 2005

Recently, surface-wave methods have been widely used for site investigation due to economic advantage and improved reliability. Specially, the Spectral-Analysis-of-Surface-Wave (SASW) method has been used to evaluate soil properties in geotechnical engineering. In determination of subgrade stiffness by SASW measurements, only the vertical Rayleigh waves have been used. This study proposed a framework to determine shear-wave velocity profiles by using vertical and horizontal Rayleigh waves and Love wave all together. In addition, the Common-Array-Profiling(CAP) SASW method was employed, which subgrade stiffness of profile the local material under two fixed receivers. The procedure proposed in this study was verified by comparing the shear-wave velocity profiles with the shear-wave velocity profiles of downhole testing at two geotechnical sites.