• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.189-196
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• 2017

Ocean Research Stations (ORSs) is the ocean platform type observation towers and measured oceanic, atmospheric and environmental data. These station located on the offshore area far from the coast, so they can produce the data without land effect. This study focused to improve the wave data quality of ORS station. The wave observations at ORSs are used by the C-band (5.8 GHz, 5.17 cm) MIROS Wave and Current Radar (MWR). MWR is convenient to maintenance and produce reliability wave data under bad weather conditions. MWR measured significant wave height, peak wave period, peak wave direction and 2D wave spectrum, so it's can provide wave information for researchers and engineers. In order to improve the reliability of MWR wave data, Datawell Waverider Buoy was installed near the one ORS (Socheoncho station) during 7 months and validate the wave data of MWR. This study found that the wave radar tend to be overestimate the low wave height under wind condition. Firstly, this study carried out the wave Quality Control (QC) using wind data, however the quality of wave data was limited. So, this study applied the four filters (Correlation Check, Direction Filter, Reduce White Noise and Phillips Check) of MWR operating software and find that the filters effectively improve the wave data quality. After applying 3 effective filters in combination, the RMSE of significant wave height decreased from 0.81m to 0.23m, by 0.58m and Correlation increased from 0.66 to 0.96, by 0.32, so the reliability of MWR significant wave height was significantly improved.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.332-349
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• 2016

OLAFOAM is the powerful CFD code and is an expanded version of $OpenFOAM^{(R)}$, for wave mechanics simulation. The $OpenFOAM^{(R)}$ does provide many solvers to correspond to each object of the numerical calculation in a variety of fields. OLAFOAM's governing equation bases on VARANS (Volume-Averaged Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes) equation, and the finite volume method is applied to numerical techniques. The program is coded in C++ and run on the Linux operating system. First of all, in this study, OLAFOAM was validated for 1) wave transformation inside porous structure under bore and regular wave conditions, 2) wave transformation by submerged breakwater under regular wave condition, and 3) regular wave transformation and resultant vertical velocity distribution under current by comparison with existing laboratory measurements. Hereafter, this study, which is almost no examination carried out until now, analyzed closely variation characteristics of water surface level, wave height, frequency spectrum, breaking waves, averaged velocity and turbulent kinetic energy around porous submerged breakwater in the wave and current coexisting field for the case of permeable or impermeable rear beach. It was revealed that the wave height fluctuation according to current direction(following or opposing) was closely related to the turbulent kinetic energy, and others.

• Journal of Fisheries and Marine Sciences Education
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.947-956
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• 2016

This study analysed the documents of Sea Area Utilization Consultation of JongChun and ApHae located in West Coast of Korea and NaJeong located in East Coast of Korea in order to find out problems of site surveys and numerical simulations for coastal erosion projects of ocean physics, and suggested the improvement way to go. Current especially like wave-induced current is the one of the important external forces to handle coastal erosion but underestimated in the west coast. In case of east coast the various tests including wave-induced current were conducted but less efficient to find out the reasons of coastal erosion. The stiffness structure to protect coastal line like beach made the secondary erosion by using them without sufficient analysis for the erosion. In order to consult a Sea Area Utilization Consultation those are needed to review the scenarios for external forces such as wave and tidal currents, the site surveys for external forces, the net sediment analysis for years, the long periods of monitoring, and the guide line and revision of the rule for coastal erosion.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.14-19
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• 2001

In this paper, the wave and current forces acting on cylinders are investigated by theoretical and experimental methods. The models used are one-cylinder, four-cylinder and semi-submersible types. The theoretical investigations are carried out by the Morison equation and three dimensional source distribution method to calculate exciting forces in waves with and without currents. The experimental investigations are carried out in the wave tank which can generate currents in both directions. In these tests, the models have been exposed to the regular waves with and without currents. It is shown that the exciting forces acting on the one-cylinder or four-cylinders can be approximately estimated by the Morison equation and also by the diffraction theory. However, the Morison equation seems to be not appropriate to estimate the exciting forces on the present type of semi-submersible.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.32 no.5B
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• pp.321-329
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• 2012

Two regular progressive wave trains, the directions of which are slightly different from each other, develop a honeycomb pattern of wave crests due to their nonlinear interaction. In the honeycomb pattern of wave crest, the nodal line area, which has very low wave energy, is formed. When the honeycomb pattern is developed near the beach area, rip current evolves through the nodal line area formed in the cross shore direction. In this study, to confirm that the formation of honeycomb pattern of waves near the beach area is a dominant mechanism of rip current occurred at Haeundae beach, we performed a numerical simulation of nearshore circulation at Haeundae beach under an unidirectional and monochromatic wave condition by using a nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. As a result, wave refraction due to topographical characteristics (i.e., submerged shoal) of Haeundae gave rise to several wave trains propagating with slightly different directions toward the beach, and consequently rip currents well developed through the nodal line area of honeycomb patterns of wave crest. In addition, we found that a narrow-banded spectral wave condition (i.e., a swell spectrum) increases more likelihood of rip current than a broad-banded spectral wave condtion based on the simulations employing various wave spectra with an equivalent wave height and period.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Telematics and Electronics D
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• v.35D no.12
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• pp.12-20
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• 1998

The non-uniform leaky wave structure of the slits in a parallel-plate waveguide is analyzed from the viewpoints of transmitting(receiving) leaky wave antenna and grating coupler. Period and slit width are simultaneously varied along the leaky wave structure to construct the leaky wave structure with a specific distribution of complex propagation constant. Some results for the equivalent magnetic current distributions over the slits and the radiation characteristics of the leaky wave structure with various source(equivalent magnetic current) distributions such as Gaussian, uniform, cosine, cosine-squared, and Taylor distributions are given and compared with each other.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.406-418
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• 2015

The present modified FUNWAVE-TVD model, which is a modification to its previous version 2.1, is applied to solitary wave propagation and is tested against the experiments of Vincent and Briggs(1989) and Luth et al.(1994). The eddy viscosity breaking scheme is used for comparison with the existing study in the case of breaking experiment. The symmetry of wave-induced current is maintained when the modified model is employed to Vincent and Briggs(1989) breaking experiment, but the symmetry of wave-induced current in previous model is not maintained. A better agreement with the breaking experimental data is obtained in the modified model using eddy viscosity breaking scheme than the shock capturing breaking scheme using nonlinear shallow water equation. For comparison with the schemes in the model, the fourth order MUSCL-TVD scheme by Erduran et al.(2005) and the third order MUSCL-TVD scheme using minmod limiter is applied, and the numerical solutions of solitary wave are compared.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Electrical and Electronic Material Engineers
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• v.33 no.5
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• pp.386-392
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• 2020

In this study, the drift current characteristics of charged particles are analyzed for panels fabricated by varying the waveform biasing of the active particle loading method (APLM), which is a method driven by the electrophoretic principle of loading charged particles into a cell of a barrier rib-type electronic paper. We prepare 3 panels using APLM and 1 panel without APLM. The waveform of APLM uses square wave and ramp wave, and the step voltage wave is applied to the driving voltage. The drift currents measured from the square wave and ramp wave with the same period applied by APLM are 4.872 µC and 5.464 µC, respectively, and the ramp wave is shown to be relatively advantageous for loading charged particles that have a large q/m. The time-current curve results confirm that the abrupt movement of charged particles is occurring. When the step form wave signal with a short time of 1s is first applied, initial large movement of the charged particles is confirmed to occur in all samples, which is understood as the effect of applying the voltage necessary to remove the imaging force. The results of this study are expected to improve the loading of charged particles into the electronic paper cell, driven by the electrophoretic principle and optimization of the driving conditions.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.32 no.4B
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• pp.243-251
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• 2012

To investigate the characteristics of rip current occurring at Haeundae beach, observations obtained from a buoy and a CCTV were analyzed and numerical experiments were conducted. During observed rip-current events, the CCTV images showed that a couple of wave-trains, which are close to regular waves with slightly different directions, propagated to the beach, and wavelet analyses of data from the buoy showed very narrow-banded spectra with a peak frequency. From the evidences, it was inferred that a known mechanism of generating rip current due to the nodal line area of honeycomb-patterned wave crest was one of the significant factors of rip current occurrences of Haeundae beach. The mechanism has been explained by the following: When two wave-trains with slightly different directions propagate to a beach, wave crests of the incident wave-trains form honeycomb pattern due to nonlinear interaction. The nodal lines of honeycomb pattern are developed in the cross-shore direction. And longshore currents flow toward the nodal line area which has very low wave energy. Consequently their mass flux is expelled through the area toward the sea direction. To confirm the generation, numerical experiments were performed using a nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. In the cases with two incident wave-trains with slightly different directions and with a monochromatic wave propagating over a submerged shoal, it was seen that the honeycomb pattern of wave crests was well developed, and thus rip currents were evolved along the nodal lines.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.70-78
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• 2011

At Haeundae Beach in Busan, people were swept away by the fast-moving rip current and rescued, on August 13th and 15th, 2009 & July 29th and 30th, 2010. In predicting the wave-induced current and consequent tube movement for public safety, the coastal flows and waves are calculated at each time step and grid point by means of systematic interfacing of hydrodynamic and wave models (Lee, 2001). To provide a user-friendly simulation tool for end-users, the forecasting system has been built in a software package called HAECUM. Outputs from the system are viewed as graphs of tube positions with combined current vectors for easy decision of emergency management officials. The tube-wave interaction is taken into account and the traces of swim tube are simulated by using a Lagrangian random walk (Chorin, 1978; Lee, 1994). In this study, we use the Lee's approach (Lee, 1993) in estimating the surface onshore currents due to wave breaking.