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http://dx.doi.org/10.12652/Ksce.2012.32.5B.321

Numerical Study on a Dominant Mechanism of Rip Current at Haeundae Beach: Honeycomb Pattern of Waves  

Choi, Junwoo (한국건설기술연구원 하천해안연구실)
Park, Won Kyung (한양대학교 대학원 건설환경공학과)
Bae, Jae Seok (한양대학교 대학원 건설환경공학과)
Yoon, Sung Bum (한양대학교 공학대학 건설환경공학과)
Publication Information
KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research / v.32, no.5B, 2012 , pp. 321-329 More about this Journal
Abstract
Two regular progressive wave trains, the directions of which are slightly different from each other, develop a honeycomb pattern of wave crests due to their nonlinear interaction. In the honeycomb pattern of wave crest, the nodal line area, which has very low wave energy, is formed. When the honeycomb pattern is developed near the beach area, rip current evolves through the nodal line area formed in the cross shore direction. In this study, to confirm that the formation of honeycomb pattern of waves near the beach area is a dominant mechanism of rip current occurred at Haeundae beach, we performed a numerical simulation of nearshore circulation at Haeundae beach under an unidirectional and monochromatic wave condition by using a nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. As a result, wave refraction due to topographical characteristics (i.e., submerged shoal) of Haeundae gave rise to several wave trains propagating with slightly different directions toward the beach, and consequently rip currents well developed through the nodal line area of honeycomb patterns of wave crest. In addition, we found that a narrow-banded spectral wave condition (i.e., a swell spectrum) increases more likelihood of rip current than a broad-banded spectral wave condtion based on the simulations employing various wave spectra with an equivalent wave height and period.
Keywords
rip current; numerical simulation; nonlinear boussinesq equation; honeycomb pattern; haeundae beach;
Citations & Related Records
Times Cited By KSCI : 3  (Citation Analysis)
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