• 복식
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• 제53권5호
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• pp.79-95
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women´s status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1960´s, ideal beauty was small bust, long legs, which showed extremely slim Mini-skirt look. Thinly or no padded brassiere were worn for small bust, and pants-style short panty girdles were popular as they used to wear pants frequently. Lycra replaced all the closures, bones, seams and gave freedom with light weight. In 1970´s, a natural human body without sex specific was in vogue. Therefore, the non-structural knits without a pad or lining or the shirts dress were widespread for a Natural look and the naturally molded brassiere or girdles were worn as the underwears. In 1980´s, the women with powerful muscle appear which emphasized liveliness and healthfulness. The body conscious represented by wide shoulder, plump breast, accented waist, small hips, and long legs has been embodied. Outer garments emphasized women power and healthy beauty with Power suit and Form-fitting style, and underwears made the breast plump with padded brassiere and emphasized waist and hips with waspie. In 1990´s, ideal beauty was slim body with big bust and the outer garments emphasized body line of women with Hourglass silhouette. Push-up bra which emphasizes the valley of breast and supports the breast upward and the control tights for slim waist, flat abdomen, small hips, and long and slim legs have been useful as underwears. Multi-functional micro-fiber has been ideal for sculpting women body.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권9호
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• pp.940-951
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• 2012

This study evaluates the fit preference of the tailored jacket according to body types for 20's adult women through a comparison of real and virtual fit. A five point fit evaluation scale utilizing a wearer acceptability scale by Shen and Huck was used to evaluate the degree of the preference of real and virtual fit. This scale contained 23 items in three categories: front fit, back fit, and side fit. For each item, 5 responses from 'too tight' fit (1 point) to 'too loose' fit (5 point) were possible. The middle position for each fit criterion indicated a 'good' fit (3 point). The data were analyzed with a t-test using statistical program SPSS 17.0. According to the results, there were no significant differences ($p{\leq}.05$) between the real and virtual fit preference in total measurement items such as front collar, lapel and roll line, front shoulder slope, front armhole, front waist, abdomen, sideseam, hemline, front silhouette, side shoulder, side armhole, side sleeve width, side hip, side silhouette, back collar stand, upper back, back armhole, back waist, back hip, back silhouette except front bust, side waist, and back center back. The factor that caused a difference in the fit preference between the real and virtual fit evaluation was a specific body type such as Body Type A that indicated a small bust circumference and a big hip circumference.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.329-334
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to develop the design, pattern and size system of brief as a measurement garment in order to obtain more precise silhouettes and sizes of the body in 3D measurements. The results of this research are as follows: First, nylon/lycra materials which elasticity is equivalent to 18%(wale) and 27%(course), were selected as a material for briefs to minimize possible error in measurement and deformation of body shape caused by looseness or tightness in its measured parts. And T-back style design was selected, of which briefs neither deform human body nor cause overlapping or excessive tightness when was put on the measurement garment over it. Second, different darts for men and women were adopted into the pattern in consideration for the shape of hip. Third, the waist band of briefs was located between the waistline and abdominal girth line so that it didn't interfere with measurement, and using a wide band of 40mm minimized the tightness of the human body. In addition, the stitch lines and sewing procedure were simplified to minimize the deformation of body shape resulting from inseams and stitch lines. Finally, for the size of briefs, 6 cm intervals were set on the basis of the waist girth and 8 kinds for men and 6 kinds for women were selected in descending order of appearance rate by the interval sections. English T meaning T-back design and numbers representing the waist girth were marked in parallel for the name of size.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.96-112
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• 2018

This study developed the pants pattern, that improved appearance and gesture functions in clothes to resolve inconveniences in case of activities with being adequate in fitness of slim-fit pants for obese adolescents. The slim-fit pants pattern was developed through the fitting test after designing and making the pattern of the experimental clothing A(c/pu; 99/1%) with the primary commercial clothing as basic prototype, through the fitting test and implementation of the experimental clothing, modified and supplemented secondarily, and through the fitting test of the second experimental clothing, modified and supplemented tertiary. In terms of findings, first, as a result of analyzing the commercial slim-fit pants, it is interpreted to have projected an optical illusion, that appears to be slim due to being narrow in width of the front panel when observed from the front of the pants. Second, in the fitting test of the first experimental clothing, the prototype of commercial clothing was understood to have improved butt, crotch, waist and femoral regions. Third, pattern design of the second experimental clothing was allowed to decline abdominal pressure, in case of the sitting position, by making the crotch line in the front panel short and by handling it with a yoke belt, and was processed a difference between waist and hip circumference in the back panel, with a rubber band in the whole waist part. Fourth, in the gesture function test of the third experimental clothing, high evaluation was received in every item excluding the knee region.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권6호
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• pp.828-841
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• 2022

This study aims to develop a fitted torso pattern suitable for males in their forties and fifties who are obese-a group that accounts for more than fifty percent of men in this age group-using a 3D virtual fitting program. Size Korea's 2022 data for obese males in their forties and fifties is utilized for this study. In terms of the research method, a 3D program (CLO 3D) is used to implement the target group's various body types and to apply fitted torsos that enable verification and evaluation of the pattern's fit and ease. The characteristics of fitted torso patterns for obese bodies are as follows: the front centerline is a profile line; shoulder darts are added by reflecting waist-abdominal protrusion in the front panel; and shoulder, arm, waist, and center-back darts are constructed for the back panel. For obese bodies, the minimum circumference ease amounts should be approximately 6-7cm for the chest, 6cm for the waist, and 6-7cm for the hips. Based on an evaluation of the virtual fit of the developed fitted torso pattern, the data shows that a pattern (foundation) such as this is well suited for obese body types with an average of 4.67/5 points for reverse triangular obesity, an average of 6.67/7 points for log obesity, and an average of 6.69 points for the ease amount.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.921-926
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• 2014

The aim of this study is to develop upper bodice pattern for obese girls aged 10~12 by using 3D virtual garment simulation system. The criteria for subjects in this study were girls who had over 1.46 of the R$\ddot{o}$hrer Index. A total of 229 schoolgirls who met these criteria were enrolled. The results of this study are as follows: First, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new upper bodice pattern considered obese-schoolgirls was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+4.5, armhole depth B/4-1, waist girth W/4+0.5+dart amount, front chest width B/6+2, back width B/6+2, neck width B/12-0.5 and neck depth B/12+0.5. Second, armhole darts were added to compensate the loose amount of front armhole and dart manipulation was used to ensure a better appearance on armhole in the design. The dart side line was modified concavely to help cover the protruding stomach. Curved lines on the armhole were significantly relieved using dart manipulation and the darts side line was modified concavely to reduce the tightness around the front waist darts. Third, according to the results of the new upper bodice pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new upper bodice pattern was appropriate for the obese-schoolgirls. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.963-970
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop torso pattern of underweight female in their 20s~30s by using Clo 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, as a result of analyzing torso somatotype, underweight women showed lower average than average values of whole women in their twenties and thirties in the items such as length, width, circumference, thickness except for height. Second, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new torso pattern considered underweight female was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+3.5, armhole depth B/4+0.5, front waist girth W/4+0.5+0.7, back waist girth W/4+0.5-0.7, front hip girth H/4+1+0.5, back hip girth H/4+1-0.5, chest width B/6+3.1, back width B/6+4.5, neck width B/12+0.2 and neck depth B/12+1.7. Third, by reducing hollowed amount of front, back, and side line, and hollowed amount of back center line, the reduced quantity was included to darts amount. Number of dart was adjusted to two pieces so that darts amount was equally distributed to two darts. Forth, according to the results of the new torso pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new torso pattern was appropriate for the underweight women. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D pattern production program development.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.267-279
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• 2017

The necessity on children dresses for cultural events and emotional aspects in designs have become important according to the development of kids industry and revitalization of party culture, and so grasping emotional requirements of consumers (image perception) is necessary actually. For the purpose of this research, the study used 27 color pictures on the whole bodies of preschool children who wore children dresses that mixed clothing design factors differently (sleeve, skirt length, waist line, materials, color, decoration type and location) through a survey. Regarding the survey objects, this study objected preschool children of 5~6 years old girl's mothers who lived in Gwangju Metropolitan City, and its results were same as follows. First, the mothers evaluated children dresses like 'beautiful,' smart,' 'cute,' 'tidy' images. Second, sleeve, waist line, skirt length, materials, color, decoration type and location appeared to clothing cues affecting influences to overall image perception of children dresses, and decorations were implicated as salient cues that affected greater influences to image perception of children dress wearers than other clothing design factors especially. Based on the research, this study expects that various forthcoming researches have been made continuously, and it could become a guideline for the development of children dress industry afterwards.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.115-126
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• 2008

The construction of an athlete's tight-fitting garments is very important to the wearer in terms of athletic performance. Therefore pattern development of tight-fitting garments must allow for the full range of human movement and postures. In this study the relationship between the construction of a skate pants pattern and clothing fitting was explored with the aim of improving the comfort of the clothing. The four male subjects were university students between the ages of 20 to 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using a seven-point Likert scale on four consecutive days. While wearing the garments, subjects were asked to take five different postures including waist flexion, sitting and others. A Likert-type scale was used for the evaluation, with 7 points indicating the best fit in tight-fitting pants. Results showed differences in the front-rise length and back-rise length between basic pants(A) and modified pants(B,C,D) were -5.16cm and +5.64cm. Comparing the basic pants pattern(A) with modified pants pattern(B), the latter was superior to basic pants(A) in terms of pressure sensation and closeness of fit, but there was no significant difference. Among the four tight-fitting skate pants, A and B pants were superior to the others in terms of fitting and stability of waist and hip sections. In the case of the skate pants, the number of cutting lines in the pattern had an influence on clothing comfort. A minimum cutting line for tight skate pants was better than a maximum cutting line in terms of clothing comfort.

• 복식
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• 제56권8호
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• pp.113-122
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• 2006

In this study, about forty teaching materials have been analyzed in order to examine tight skirt sewing methodtreated in basic process in a college and a fashion related educational institution. The study objects limited with a belt, back centered zipper, and back double slits on a tight skirt, and used fifteen suitable teaching materials in this study. The first study result appeared that every single teaching material suggested the different way of wick adhesion which is used in zipper slit, back slit, and belt part when the skit has been manufactured in order to do a form of clothes well. Secondly, it is the case of a back slit part used for the purpose of both functionality of action and decoration, and it is the section which varies a sewing and cutting way according to seam room width of a back middle seam. However, the majority of teaching materials appeared by being selecting the way how it had cut an inseam of the back center by the both upper part of back slit. Finally, the result showed that it mentioned mainly only both sided zipper sewing method if it seems to be easy to treat the majority in a basic process even though use of a console zipper Is general on a zipper sowing way recently for several years. Also, two forms are used in the belt manufacturing, and they are based with a waist line. However, the teaching materials that were used in this study presented only a manufacture way of the straight line on the waist belt.