• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.28
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• pp.65-84
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to analyze the relation between the beauty of human body and the fashion illustration in each period And I attained my object through the investigation of features and changes of illustration which is given a vivid description of the features and development of ideal humam body beauty. By various methods I studied this subject. Frist I refered to sundry records Secondly I investiated the fashion illustrations which are included in Vogue. On the basis of this data I grasped the ideal types of human body beauty which is founded during the social change in each 10 years. And I analyzed the relation be-tween the ideal type and fashion illustration which show the change of fashion. The summary of result is as follows. 1. In the early part of the 20th century the beauty of human body is represented with the figure of large-sized beauty which emphasize shoulder and bust. And fashion ikllustration show 9 life-size broad shoulder full bust lim waist and hourglass silhouette. 2, In the 1910s the swell of strength vanishes gradually and shoulder and sleeve are straight type. And fashion illustration show 7 life-size high waist line. And that is tublar sil-houette of high waist and streamline shape in which bust and hip are not emphasized. 3. In the 1920s the ideal type of human body beauty is straight type which shows flat bust and unexaggerate hip. And fashion illus-tration is about 8 life-size tublar silhouette of low waist and lunger and slimmer and young style in which bust and hip are not emph-asized. 4. In the 1930s the ideal is womamly slim and long style. Fashion illustration is about 8 life-size and slim & long silhouette in which waist line is emphasized and bust and hip line come out. 5. In the 1940s the ideal type is womamly style which has narrow shoulder rich bast and slim waist. And fashion illustration is about 7 life-size and hourglass silhouette which has unartificial shoulder slim waist and empha-sized bust. 6. In the 1950s the ideal type is that of ro-bust health which emphasize build and muscu-lar system. And fashion illustration is 8.5 life-size and show full bust and made waist slimmer. That is sheath silhouette. 7. In the child who has full face with large eyeball slender and long leg: narrow and immatured body comparatively big head. And fashion illus-tration is 7 life-size and show slim and long neck flat bust long and slim limbs and big head. That is H type silhouette. 8. In the 1970s the ideal type is high stat-ure flat breast small hip and wide shoulders. And fashion illustration is wide shoulders and slim waist as 11 life-size and straight sil-houete. 9. In the 1980s the ideal type is extremely emphasized breadth of shoulder because healthy body and muscle are recognized as the symbol of ideal attractiveness. And fashion il-lustration is about 8.5 life-size and show mus-cular slim type that is slim silhouette. 10 At the present time the ideal type is slim and tall type which is empasized healthy beauty. And fashion illustration is 12 life-size which has healthy body and skin So that is slim and long type.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.407-412
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• 2005

This study is to establish the pattern for one piece dress which fits well to the women somatotype with different drop value and is functional and has high body fitness. Selected 2 testers from classified 4 types who were close to the average value and took twice dressing test. After successive correction and revision, patterns of one piece dress for each somatotype were established. M type ; Bust line is established to B/4+1.7 cm. Waist line is W/4+1.5+2.5 cm(dart amount) for front pattern and W/4+0.8+2 cm(dart amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+0.8 cm for front and H/4+0.8 cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.5 cm. A type ; Bust line is established to B/4+1.7 cm. Waist line is W/4+1.5+2.5 cm (dart amount) for front pattern and W/4+0.8+2 cm(dart amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+1.5 cm for front and H/4+1 cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.2 cm. X type ; Bust line is established to B/4+1.5 cm for front pattern and B/4+2 cm for back. Waist line is W/4+2+2.5 cm (dart amount) for front and W/4+1+2+1.4 cm(for two darts amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+1 cm for front and H/4+1.3cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.8 cm. H type; Bust line is established to B/4+1.5 cm for front pattern and B/4+2cm for back. Waist line is W/4+1.7+2.5 cm (dart amount) for front and W/4+0.8+2 cm(dart amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+2 cm for front and H/4+1.5 cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.8 cm. In order to achieve the objective evaluation on a new pattern in this study, the sensory evaluation for both Imwonja pattern and a new pattern in this study was completed. As a result of sensory evaluation, a new pattern of this study could accomplished a good appearance in reflecting characteristics of each types and could achieved the functional superiority than comparison pattern.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.145-157
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• 1993

This study aimes to investigate the garment ease of pe-school children's clothing in accordance with arm movement. The experiment was done with 4 per-school children fro mage 3 to age 5, and 3 types of experimental clothes were made ; sleeveless, half sleeve, and long sleeve. The waist pattern and the sleeve pattern of each experimental clothes has no garment ease. And experimental clothes were examined to obtain the necessary ease of armcye line and waist lien by cross-cut method. The results of investigation can be summarized as follows ; 1. The resulting movement ranges of experimental clothes with no garment ease were 131.5°(sleeveless), 71.75°(half sleeve), and 62.25°(long sleeve). 2. The size order of cross-cut opening of waist lien movement were (side>front>back), and (half sleeve>long sleeve>sleeveless). 3. When the base point of measurement was set to armpit point by arm the latitudinal length of cross-cut opening of armcye line by arm movement was (anterior armpit part > posterior armpit part), and longitudinal length of cross-cut opening was (upper part>lower part).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.5
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• pp.675-689
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• 2014

This study developed an ideal jeggings pattern with an improved body fit for 20-24 year old females. The results of the study are as follows. First, samples for wearing test were made using jegging patterns from three manufacturers; subsequently, one pattern with a relatively outstanding body fit was selected from the first test. The selected pattern suggested a tight knee, belly, and crotch, high front waist line, and low back waist line. The side lines were also lean to the front; consequently, the front hip width was extended for 0.5cm for more space around the belly and the extended front knee part for 0.2cm to increase moving suitability to fix the leaning side lines. A 1cm front waist line was extended for 0.5cm to fix it lower; in addition, the back waist line 3.0cm was extended for 0.5cm to heighten it. The crotch width was also extended for 0.5cm to add more space. The second wearing test for the fixed forms were evaluated for their outstanding features in appearance as well as moving functions that were proposed as final jeggings forms. The results of the study suggested a jeggings pattern with a better body fit using manufacturer patterns that can be used as basic data for pant patterns with better fitting using various stretch fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.494-500
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• 2005

This study classifies somatotype from exact measurements according to the women somatotype with different drop value and isfunctional and has high body fitness. This study was preceded in the following process. Took 147 women in their 20's measurement directly and grasped the general body characteristic, and classified somatotype according to distribution of drop. Drop value is classified into Drop I, Drop II, and Drop III. Drop I is the difference value between bust line and waist line measurement. Drop II is the difference value between hip line and waist line measurement. Drop III is the difference value between hip line and bust line measurement. Suggested distribution of somatotype based on drop istribution. Classified somatotype into 4 types according to the mixture of combination of Drop I, II, and III. Comprehended the characteristics of somatotype based on basic statistical data. Type 1, M type, displays 40 % distribution that is most high distribution rate among four types and it is normal type which is similar to average value in size in the this study. Type 2, A type, displays 32.4% and it's a lower half of their body developed type with a flat busted and hippy. Type 3, X type, displays 19% and it's a healthy type with tall height, slender waist and curves of bust and hip lines. Type 4, H type, displays 8.6% and it's a biggest type in size which is busty, full hipped and nearly has no curves of body line.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.61-72
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• 2009

The purpose of this research is to suggest a new way to approach measuring the waist line of slacks. The pattern formulated enables a construction method that optimizes motion. The method is based on the measurement on the length change of the body surface line. The research reveals: 1. The analysis of expansion and contraction by area showed that G8 markedly shrunk, whilst G15 maximally stretched during M4 motion. 2. The areas that stretched during M2 motion were, in order of size: G10, G17, G16, and G8. Conversely, the areas that shrunk are, in order, G9, G11, and G18. The areas that stretched during M3 motion were G10, G17, G16, G12, and G15; the areas that shrunk were G9, G11, G18, and G8. 3. In constructing the slacks pattern to allow for appropriate movement, we calculated the length between the knee and back of the waist, point (y), using Pythagoras’theorem and trigonometry. The equation was y = 1.005x. 4. In the two pattern N method and L method, y is equal or less than x, but for our research pattern, y was larger than x

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.123-135
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• 2021

This study provides basic information for the convenient size selection of T-shirts in an online purchasing environment. The best preferred T-shirts fit was selected among five sizes of T-shirts according to body size group. The subjects were 103 students majoring in clothing. After setting a virtual model with her own body sizes, the subjects chose the best preferred fit among five sizes of T-shirts that included the one suitable to their bust circumference, two smaller T-shirts and two larger T-shirts. As a result, they preferred the fit of larger size T-shirts than body size, but they preferred a different fit by the body characteristic group such as waist height group and hip circumference group. T-shirt length was affected by waist height; in addition, shoulder ease was affected by hip circumference and bust circumference. Therefore waist height and hip circumference should be considerable sizes when consumers choose T-shirts sizes with a preferred fit.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.1-13
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• 1980

When we design a dress, we should not only consider the esthetic sense and the relationship between movements of the body and the type of dress, but also the combination between the qualities and proper uses of textiles. recently the sale of ready-made clothes has been booming but I wonder whether they have been made in accordance with research concerning body movements and dresses. I would like to make the following observations on dresses, because I have personally suffered the inconvenience of restricted arm movements when wearing ready-made clothes. I have made four types types of foundations with muslin and Jersey, with these foundations I measured the degree of tension or how much the waist-line was drawn up then the arm was moved in increments of 45 degree angles and there by covering the entire span of vertical and horizontal movements. I have intended to experiment with sleeves of differing height in several ways. Concerning the movement factor, I have determined that with excessive activity vertical movements are twice as uncomfortable as horizontal movements. Concerning the faburic, I have found that because jersey has more elastic qualities than muslin, it has proven to be more responsive to body movements. concerning dresses, I have fund that the higher the height of the sleeves, the more uncomfortable it is to move the arms and the greater the degree to which the waist-line is drawn up. As a result this experiment I have made the following observations. Firstly, the vertical movement of the arms to a 180 degree angle has the most extreme influence on the breadth of movement of the waist-line. Secondly, because jersey permits freer body movements than muslin, it should be the preferred material for use in making sportswear. Thirdly, the formula A·H/4+3 of the sleev's cap height is suitable for making street dresses and formal wear. The formula A·H/5 and A·H/6 are properly used when making working clothes and sportswear, and the formula A·H/8 is proper for a sleeping garment and clothes for patients. Fourthly when deciding to any garments, it is important to consider the amount of arm movement anticipated and the relationship between the material and the degree to which the waistline is drawn up. In nder-blouse, when we raise our arms to the most extreme position, we should at that point still have 20∼25 cm of material remaining under the waist-line which includes the maximum of 14.1cm plus part of the blouse and breath of skirt's belt. In the case of the over blouse it is proper for us to have the length of 17∼20 cm remaining below the waist-line.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.3 s.62
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• pp.387-403
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop a new torso pattern for the schoolgirl of a tween generation who had different somatotype from children and teenagers. The subjects in this study were female elementary school students of fifth or sixth grade. Through a sensory evaluation of four existing torso patterns, the first research torso pattern was developed. Drafting methods of each item, which closed to the optimum value three, were selected. The differences between the values of the selected drafting methods and the optimum three were verified through a Wilcoxon's ranked sum test. The final research torso pattern was developed through adjusting the drafting methods according to the deviation from the optimum value three. The schoolgirl of a tween generation is at the time to show the remarkable breast development compared with a waist circumference, so the bust drafting was defined as B/4+ 1.25cm separately front and back. The drafting of a waist circumference was defined as W/4+1cm separately front and back which taken the ease amounts of the somatotype into consideration of the schoolgirl of a tween generation. A princess line was used instead of a waist dart because their hip circumference was more developed than a waist circumference. The crossed amount of a front hemline was 0.3cm and that of a back hemline was 0.7cm. and the princess line of the position was drawn with a straight line at a right angle of the back waistline. The armhole depth was determined B/4-1cm in consideration of the aesthetic and the trend, although the effective movement of upper arm was required.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.80-88
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• 2006

This study attempted to undertake comparative analysis of woman's jacket pattern and details based on the Crinoline and Bustle style of the 19th century, comprehend the relation and differences between the two styles. And it also presented the resultant characteristics and attempted reproducing the original dress of the past for the development of modern woman's jacket design. Larger portion was occupied for the breast front width than the back width for both Crinoline and Bustle style, which indicated the remarkable difference between these styles and modern jackets in terms of pattern size. Circumferences also showed that both styles had larger size for the front region than for the back. Divided by two types of pattern shape. The Crinoline style has a waist line and flare. On the other hand, the Bustle style does not have a waist line and has pleats. These two styles shows distinct differences of patterns even if they seem similar. It was essential to undertake the designing of models by giving a consideration to the characteristics of patterns of the two styles. With respect to how to sketch the study models which will be applied for the reproduction to modern body sizes were as follows: the front bust circumference; B/4 +1+1 cm, the back bust circumference; B/4 +1-1 cm, front waist circumference; W/4 +1+1 cm, back waist circumference; W/4 +1-1 cm, the height of sleeve crown; AH/3, armhole line; B/4, the back width /2; 17.5 cm, the breast front width /2; 16.5cm. And for the rest parts, sizes reflecting the characteristics of the patterns of two styles have been applied.