• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.373-381
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• 1996

Draping design system organized by European about 13C has been developed greatly for a long while, but for the purpose of the practical use the Dress form similar to human body has been needed. In order to make three-dimensional effect as fitting Muslin ot the Dress form. the Basic lien has to be established in Muslin and Dress form each. At this time, Shoulder-blade level is indicated from various angles : measure down 10cm from the back neck point, a quarter of the back neck point to the waist lie, the half-way point between neckline and bust line, measure down 41 inches from the back neck line, measure down 3 inches from the top edge of the muslin at center back and cross mark for neck line, and so forth. This study established the Basic line through the two ways of them (B.N.P∼B.L/2, B.N.P∼W.L/4), did tight fitting to the 5 kinds of Dress forms which ar normal type in the drop value(the difference between hip circumference and bust circumference), and acquired Basic Pattern. After the experiment, fitness are throughly investigate by statistical analysis of measurements. As a result, this study finds out that fit is proper when shoulder blade level is situated on a fourth of the back neck point to the waist line and a quarter point between back neck point and waist line, and waist dart is situated on the back center line and princess line.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.401-414
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• 1997

This study examined the transition of costume in middle and high school girls after the abolition of school-uniform. Fashion photographs of $\ulcorner$Junior$\lrcorner$a Korean magazine for girls were used for the investigation. Skirts used mainly were changed in order of pleat tight flare and tight skirt And skirt length was changed in order of knee midi knee and mini. Slim baggy and straight pants together showed high frequency but after 1992 straight pants were used mainly. And pants of ankle length was prevalent. In jacket Hip line natural waist and H-line silhouette dominated. Silhouette of one-piece dress was changed in order or X line H line and A line. Semi fit and natural waist were prevalent. And length was changed in order of midi knee and mini. The coat of H line Loose semi fit and Knee length was the most frequently appeared style. Waist line of coat was changed in order of natural low no natural waist. In skirt blue white black and black were mainly in spring summer fall and winter respectively. In pants blue was used mainly regardless of the season, In jacket blue in spring and black in other seasons were used. In one-piece derss blue in spring red in summer black in fall and winter were used mainly. Black coat was used mainly. Therefore blue was the most frequently used color by middle and high school girls.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.101-112
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the differences of the visual image on the variations in the waist position and the width of the wide pants. The stimuli were 9 samples: 3 variations of the waist position and 3 variations of the width of hem line. The data was obtained from 56 fashion students and analyzed by using Factor Analysis, Anova, Scheffe's Test and the MCA method. The results of this study are as follows; 1. The visual evaluation by the waist position and the width of the wide pants is composed of 4 factors: attractiveness, physical characteristics, modesty, and personality. Among these factors, the attractiveness was the most important. 2. The high waist pants showed the most characteristic and soft under the condition that the width of the hem line was 98cm at the third stage, while the natural waist pants showed no characteristics and stiff in case the width of the hem line was 66cm at the first stage. 3. The first stage pants were simplest and modest in case the waist position was low, while the third stage pants were the most complicated and untidiest in case the waist position was natural. 4. The waist position and the width of the wide pants interacted with the physical characteristics and the modesty. 5. According to the MCA on the attractiveness and the personality, the width affected to the visual image of the wide pants than the waist position did.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.445-453
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• 2007

This study was to select the measurement points for the brassier and the waist-nipper. 15 subjects (ages 30-40) were chosen by % body fat to represent various physical types. Subjects put on each garment, brassier and a waist-nipper, in turns. Measurement points in the underwear were selected according to the parts of human body. The characteristics and surface area of each garment was considered carefully when the measurement points were selected. Selected measurement points on a brassier and a waist-nipper were chosen from the anterior midsagittal line, the side-seam line, and the posterior midsagittal line. Three points on the brassier and three points on the waist-nipper were selected as the measurement points. There was a highly significant correlation between % body fat and mean garment pressure. There were no significant relationships between thickness of subcutaneous fat and mean garment pressure by measured parts.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1165-1178
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• 2010

This study is aimed at developing low waist slacks pattern with high satisfaction measurements and beauty for the tween generation girls. For this study, the research method was as follows. By extracting and analyzing industrial and educational slacks pattern, beautiful and motion-suitable slacks pattern will be created. This study presents the ideal slacks pattern that has great fit to tween generation girls by comparing and analyzing the previous 2 slacks pattern studies and the real clothing test. The constructed pattern in the 1st step was modified and adjusted from the best industrial patterns' the location of waist line, waist line gradient, rear waist bottom crotch, hip bottom crotch, dart length, the ease of hip girth, the fitness of rear bottom crotch line which were not well-estimated. The 2nd step was appearance and movement test based on the 1st study. In The 3rd step, the 2nd step was chosen as the final slacks study pattern for its superior appearance & movement satisfaction comparing with other patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.151-163
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• 1981

This study was to investigate the changes of shape of the surface square measurements, the rate, measurements of expansion and contraction and correlation. In this study was found the following: 1. According to the developmental illustration of the shell it was revealed that there was a great change in the thigh area of the body. When the leg was raised and the waist bent forward the front sections of the abdomen were contracted and the center back of the hip was expanded. 2. It was found that the contraction was present in the girth of the back section and front section was expanded in the rate of the body surface. In the length from the middle waist to hip the front area showed a great deal of contraction the back area of the hip & thigh revealed a great deal of expansion. 3. By the somatometry, the measurements of the expansion and contraction of the body surface, there was a great change in waist and hip. It revealed that the maximum expansions of waist and hip line in the chair were 1.8cm and 4.08cm respectively. Therefor, when slacks are made at least the amount of ease of 1.8cm of waist line and 4cm of hip line must be made and the allowance of the center back of hip area must be made. 4. It revealed that there was a correlation between waist and hip girth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1193-1202
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• 1996

This study investigates and analyzes the amount and shape of the front waist dart of the bodice and investigates the dart division method by bust size. Measurements at 5 arm positions were taken from 15 subjects. Clothing tests were given to 6 of the subjects. The conclusions were as follows: 1) Front Body surface changes were occurred around armpit and they were caused by the wrinkles of the armpit 2) The curved dart line was more appropriate for use with C cup, the large bust body, than the linear line. The changes of the dart amount at arm movements had different types by bust size. 3) Patterns for A & C cup body were adequate to divide the dart amount by 3 darts such as under the B.P., under the anterior armpit and side line, or to aggregate to 1 dart under the B.P. For the B cup body, however, the suitable pattern to use was the total dart amount divided by 1~2 darts and decreasing the waist line at the side line should be avoided.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.5
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• pp.383-390
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to classify the somatotype of elderly women and to extract discriminant factors of the classification. The subjects were 218 elderly women aged 60-85 years old. Data were collected from 46 anthropometric and photographic measurements of each subject and analyzed by frequencies, crosstabs, analysis of variance and discriminant analysis. The somatotype was classified into 5 types according to the lateral view. The normal type was defined as the type which the plumb line passes through the cervicale and the lateral malleolus. The lean-back type positioned the plumb line more posteriorly than normal type. The swayback type positioned the plumb line at about the same line as the lean-back type, but curvature of lateral view was prominent. The lean-forward type I and II positioned the plumb line more anteriorly than normal, but the spinal curvature of the type II disappeared. As the result of discriminant analysis, significant discriminant factors of anthropometric measurement were cervicale height, anterior waist height, neck point to posterior waist length, anterior waist length. Photographic measurement were C valve, D value, ∠${\alpha}$ and ∠${\beta}$.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.93-101
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• 2015

This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit six-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance evaluations twice. The researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores from the evaluations. The results are as follows: first, when comparing the four kinds of existing slopers, dimensions and patternmaking methods of 18 areas, especially width of back chest and side chest, were varied according to the existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellent scores in the appearance evaluations such as placements of side line on the chest, waist, hip line, measurement in dimension from the center back hip line and from waist line, and appearance of neck line. Third, the suggested sloper are as follows: the ease on the chest is 10.5 cm, 8~10 cm extends for the jacket length, the measure in dimension from the back waist is 2.2 cm, dart intake at the back side is 4 cm, dart intake at the front side is 1.5~2 cm, and dart intake at the front waist is 1 cm. This suggested six-panel jacket sloper is expected to be useful for the various slim-fit jacket designs which have the side panels.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.123-143
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• 1994

The aim of this research analyze women's preference in types and formation of skirt lines by their ages and body shapes. The aim of this study is for women to select clothing which can cover their shortcomings and to present the practical and positive data about skirt design to clothing maker. The results of this research are summarized as followed : Tight skirt is the beest preferred and flare is the next. Narred silhouettes re preferred about th width of each kind of skirt, but as for the gored and flare skirts middle-width silhouettes are preferred. Preferred lengths of the skirts are different from ages; the middle like minilines, the thirties like miniline, the thirties and the forties natural line, and the fifties midiline, and according to body shapes, the skinny or standard shape like natural line and the fat midiline. All age prefer natural waist line, and twenties and the skinny like high waist line and belt compared to fifties and the fat. All ages like dart-treated skirt waist and wrinkle-decoration with narrow vertical lines or tuck-decoration with narrow horizontal line. White and blue are preferred colors of skirts in spring and summer, the skinny and the standard like blue, whereas the fat like black. All ages like soft materials and one-colored skirts without patterns Adult women like jipper to open waist of a skirt. Most of them like back positioned one, but fifties and the fat prefer side positioned ones.