• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.163-176
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• 2003

Waist lined Coat with Pleats excavated from Byun-su(1447-1524) Tomb in Yangpyeong were very similar in size to the costume of Haeina Temple which is the oldest YosunChollik up to now YosunChollik was popularly worn in the Yuan Dynasty of China(원) and it is presumed to be flown into Korea in that period. In China, the coat with a straight collar was called ByeonseonOh , and one with a round collar was called ByeonseonOhja in the Yuan Dynasty. The excavated relics of Haeinsa Temple are almost same as ByeonseonOh. In the Myoung Dynasty(명), the coat with a straight collar was called YoseonOhja, and one with a round collar was called Round collar YoseonOhja . The Waist lined Coat with Pleats excavated in the Byunsu Tomb is same as YoseonOhja Attendants who is low in position and doctors used to wear the coat, which was spread to diverse classes by degrees. Later, even emperors and high ranking officials used to wear it as military uniforms. It was made of silk and summer cloth. As mentioned above, 1 examined its history carefully through Chinese documents and photographic materials on relics. In addition, with the authentic records of Korea and the excavated relics of the Byun-su Tomb, 1 analyzed its components. However, the analysis was very restricted because the relics to be compared with were few.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.401-414
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• 1997

This study examined the transition of costume in middle and high school girls after the abolition of school-uniform. Fashion photographs of $\ulcorner$Junior$\lrcorner$a Korean magazine for girls were used for the investigation. Skirts used mainly were changed in order of pleat tight flare and tight skirt And skirt length was changed in order of knee midi knee and mini. Slim baggy and straight pants together showed high frequency but after 1992 straight pants were used mainly. And pants of ankle length was prevalent. In jacket Hip line natural waist and H-line silhouette dominated. Silhouette of one-piece dress was changed in order or X line H line and A line. Semi fit and natural waist were prevalent. And length was changed in order of midi knee and mini. The coat of H line Loose semi fit and Knee length was the most frequently appeared style. Waist line of coat was changed in order of natural low no natural waist. In skirt blue white black and black were mainly in spring summer fall and winter respectively. In pants blue was used mainly regardless of the season, In jacket blue in spring and black in other seasons were used. In one-piece derss blue in spring red in summer black in fall and winter were used mainly. Black coat was used mainly. Therefore blue was the most frequently used color by middle and high school girls.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.2 s.161
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• pp.247-257
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop men's garment sizing system, based on the anthropometric measurements called 'SizeKorea', which was surveyed between 2003 and 2004. The number of the survey subjects was 3,215 of males, who were from 18 to 69 years old. In the results, body types were assorted by drops, consisting of 4 upper body types and 2 lower body types. Height, chest, waist and hip were selected as the key dimensions of sizing system and the intervals of them were decided on statistical analysis of key dimensions, size intervals of ready-to wear clothes and sizing systems of other countries. In the results, older group or shorter height group had less differences between chest and waist as well as between waist and hip, but younger group and taller group had more differences. The size intervals for fitted jacket and coat were 3cm in chest and waist, while the intervals for fitted pants were 2cm in waist and hip. The intervals for not-fitted clothes were 5cm in chest, waist and hip, which 5 cm interval of height were applied, in all cases.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.7
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• pp.27-40
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• 2004

The purpose of this paper is to make it easy to reproduce the Pattern and sewing technique of men's coat in 18th century. which are modified in order to be made readily available in Korean theatre costume. The investigation was performed in three steps. 1st, The papers and records about development and change of men's coats were reviewed. End; The whole process of the way how to make a typical 18th century men's coats were sewn. 3rd ; The modification or revision into the more simplified pattern using by CAD system and sewing technique were suggested in detail. The size of the pattern in the original one, which we chose for this research, was generally small. with the side line being moved back a little. Moreover, arm movements were severely restricted because of the small arm-hole. The problems of original pattern were corrected by making both front and back pattern snug and side line being moved to the front, and making arm-hole wider. In the sewing technique, the simple way how to use of Padding, inter-linings and linings and to create the most noticeable figure of 18th century men's coat. This article may help theatre costume production in Korean performing art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.118-133
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• 2008

The basic costumes of the joseon dynasty such as pants and jackets were not particularly distinctive over the period in comparison to po. The coat that was worn over pants and jacket, however, had different forms in the course of the joseon dynasty. In this paper, I will analyze the changing style of pyeonbokpo, the daily costumes of Joseon man, which were excavated in recent years. Changes in the collar style were the most distinctive of joseon pyeonbokpo such as cheolik, dapho, aekjueum, jikryeong, daechangyeui, jungchimak, and juyeui. Although pyeonbokpo had double collars in the early joseon dynasty, they disappeared in the seventeenth century: a straight line also replaced by a curve for the collar perimeter. Front-adjusting of pyeonbokpo was very deep in the early joseon dynasty; front-adjusting became simple in the late joseon dynasty, resulting in the central positioning of a ribbon. The rectangular form of a gusset(mu) was stitched to the bodice through various pleats. Gusset patterns changed greatly into various forms in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, along with the ladder gusset form. The long vest(dapho) was half-sleeved and had a deep front adjustment in the early joseon dynasty; however, it did not have collars and sleeves since the eighteenth century. The waist line of cheolik had the ratio of 1.2 to 1 for the bodice to skirt. But the length of skirts grew gradually into the ratios of 1 to 1, 1 to 2, and 1 to 3.8 while the waist line moved upwards to the chest line. Sleeves of all po had a straight form but they gradually developed the tendency to widen towards the wrists. Later, sleeves changed again, having a wide rectangular form starting from the armpits. Cheolik was widely worn in the early joseon dynasty; however, it was worn less in later years. Instead, clothes that had slits such as dopo, daechangeui, and jungchimak were greatly available. These characteristics of the change in men's costumes enable us to measure the time period of excavated findings despite the lack of records for Joseon graves.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.143-153
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• 2004

The Purpose of this study is provide fundamental data on a suitable sizes of ready-to-wear for women. The subjects of the survey were 300 female of 18 to 24 years old. They were measured direct anthropometry. Height, bust girth, waist girth and hip girth were grouped by KS interval. Data were analyzed by use of Cross Tab method. The results of this study were as follows. Body group of the anthropometric measurements were summed up as follows. Height was divided into 4 section(155-170), bust girth was divided into 7 section(76-94), waist girth was divided into 6 section(61-76) and hip girth was divided into 9 section(84-100). The characteristics of cross tab can be summarized as follows. Section with application ratio are 155-160cm of height, 82-85cm for bust girth, 64-70cm for waist girth and 86-94cm for hip girth. The sizes of high cover ratio of well-fitting jacket, dress, coat and one-piece was 17 sizes, well-fitting an upper garment and the whole body garment item except that was 16 sizes, and a lower garment was 21 sizes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.3
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• pp.133-148
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• 2017

The purpose of this paper is to develop waist coat designs that can be worn in the present day by researching design techniques and traditional waist coat forms shown on Korean patchworks called 'Jokakbo', which was commonly used in our traditional culture. By selecting patchwork as the primary motive in particular. The Bojaki, also known as deungguhli or baeguhli(背巨里), gives off a natural and vibrant color sensation. A new design that could be practically worn with modern clothing was developed by sufficiently reflecting this color sensation as well as the aesthetic quality of its geometric shape. On the basis of theoretical consideration of traditional cloth and vest, total of 7 points were designed and produced. These works contain diverse application of the traditional Bojaki and vest. The design of the Bojaki grants rhythmic sense to the side where diverse colors and formative patterns shown on the cloth can be seen as monotonous. The entire side opening of the traditional waistcoat can cover multiple sizes. Depending on the movement, the front and back naturally spreads. The vest can also be worn in layers or used as a cotton quilt depending on the season. And after minimal design alterations, it will be possible to wear the vest with diverse modern clothing due to its straight line and form.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.5
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• pp.827-839
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• 2009

Sizing system of Korean structural firefighting protective clothing that is national approved should be met for specification of structural firefighting protective clothing that is identified by Ministry of Public Administration and Security(MOPAS). However if you look over the specification of sizing system, the standard is based on only 'height' and the others are indicated as the size of completed product. KS K ISO 13688 and EN 340 which is met on ISO 13688 which indicates sizing system about protective clothing has the standards of height, chest and waist circumference. Also NFPA 1971 that has standards of sizing system is based on chest circumference, cervical to wrist length, waist circumference and inseam. That is different from Korean standards. Therefore, fire fighting protective clothing standards which is based on only height should be compensated and not be relied on foreign standards like ISO. It is indispensable for developing our own sizing system of structural fire fighting protective clothing. In this studying, Korean new sizing system of structural fire fighting protective clothing was developed for providing basic information of ergonomic structural fire fighting protective clothing. The analyzed target age was between 20 and 59 years old fire fighter who extinguish the fire. And it was analyzed by 3D measurement among data of the $5^{th}$ Size Korea. On conclusion, in case of structural fire fighting protective clothing coat, physical dimension was to be chest circumference, cervical to wrist length. Three dimensions as 5cm space of circumference and four dimensions as 2.5cm space of cervical to wrist length were derived, which means that totally 12 dimensions were defined. Dimension standards of pants was based on the analysis of waist circumference and crotch height. Six dimensions as 5cm space of waist circumference and three dimensions as 5cm space of crotch height were derived, which means that totally 14 dimensions were defined.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.31-43
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• 1997

The costumes on a royal ceremony and the changes thereafter during the Korea Empire(1897-1910) have been elucidated through the review on the paintings on Queen Myong-Hun's 70th birthday celebration and the prospectus of the ceremony. Queen Myong-Hyn wore ceremonial gown in deep blue with 51 embroidered phoenix on it. The deep blue color the royal color in the Korea Empire replaced former red color. Go-jong wore violet crown and ceremonial suit in gold color. Twenty one kinds of court dance were offered during the celebration ceremony. Costumes therein appear to have an order according to the role ofdancers. most female dancers(in 17 performances not else-where specified) wore a rather common cos-tume-flower cap outer silk garent in green hand veils in 5 colors silk skirt in red) embroidered silk belt in red and shoes in green. In Sun-you-ak two female lead dancers were red hat decorated with tiger whisker deep blue outer garment wide red belt silk boots in black bow and arrows on back and a sword and a whip in hands. In Choonaang-jon a fe-male solo dancer wore a silk outer garment in yellow silk skirt in red green lorum embroidered silk belt in red wrist band of gold embroidered red silk and 5 color hand veils. In Yon-wha-dae two young girl dancers wore lotus-form crown green outer garment wide pants in red silk red silk skirt red silk belt hand veils in jade color and silk shoes in deep red. In Moo-go 4 female dancers each wore long waist coat in blue red white and warm light green in addition to the above-mentioned common costume. In Gumkee-moo 4 female dancers wore hatlike wool helmet outer garment with narrow sleeve long silk waist coat in blue combat belt in deep blue silk and dance swords in both hands. In Youk-wha-dae 6 female dancers each wore a long waist cost in red deep blue violet pale pink green and jade color. Green color of outer garment in the above-mentioned common costume of female dancers appears intersting. Although the color was shown as yellow in the screen paintings actually it was green as evidenced by the prospectus of the celeebration ceremony.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.135-146
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to investigate the meaning and possible shape of Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun(高麗鴉靑雲袖羅質孫) through the details regarding its color, fabric, and pattern in the $13-14^{th}$ century writings and costume relics. Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun was the summer dress coat that government officials wore during the Jisun feast of Yuan, and it was symbolic of the political strategy of Yuan as well as the excellent Goryeo fabric material, but no relics remain. During this period, Achung (dark blue)was the color that was used to dye silk, dress coats of upper class men, and background fabric of the embroidered official patch. And, the term, Yunsu (cloud sleeves), was probably sleeves with cloud pattern. The most typical cloud pattern in the 13 and the $14^{th}$ century was the 'flowing, gathering-headed cloud'. The Ra(silk gauze) weaving technique of Goryeo was developed rapidly in the $12^{th}$ century, and the quality of the Ra in the late Goryeo was good enough to be used for making the official's dress coat in the golden age of Yuan. According to the characteristic of jisun and man's formal-suit style in the Mongolian-Yuan, the possible styles for Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun can be summarized as follows: a basic Mongolian gown with narrow sleeves and deep crossed diagonal opening, a Mongolian gown with waist pleats, the combination of half sleeved gown and long sleeved Mongolian gown. These styles would be made of delicate Goryeo Ra, cloud patterned sleeves, fabrics dyed in dark blue color, and shawl or embroidered patch ornaments for officials of Yuan, which was more simple than materials for Khan's Jisun to avoid rebellions.