• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.173-186
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• 2002

Street Style, occurred in British and America, has been expressed the character of the new generation by repeating developments and changes. Nowadays, pop music reflects the phase of society. and simultaneously it has influence on from culture to society. Rock Music was rooted in Country 8l western of America. Upon Country & Western, Afro-Americans Rhythm & Blues was added, and that was the birth of Rockabilly. Rockabilly developed to Rock'n 'roll and it started to change to various forms of Rock since 1950s. As the commercial impact and the breakthrough of teenagers emotion, the rock culture comprised the base of the youth culture. However. it formed the anti-establishment culture against the established value, accepting working class subculture. The teenager culture was affected by the Rock culture, also found relief in the opulence provided by the established generation, imitating it as it was. Simultaneously, it had a contrary aspect as anti-establishment form under the banner of revolt against languor in richness. The youth culture created street style that was escaped from high fashion, every time Rock music had changes. Since Street style was based on resistance of established culture and it fully refused vogue, it was indifferent from high fashion. The results of this study were as following. First, every time Rock music had changes, the new youth culture was concomitant with, the youth culture created street style. Secondly, rockahibilly style was characterized as diamond shaped design, embroidery, extra wide shirt collar, vivid contrast color . Rockers style was represented as metal studs, beads, denim, leather jacket, boots. Fusion of hippies style and Psychedelic, long hair, beads. worn denim were elements of headbangers style. Punks style was characterized as ripped T-shirt. rooster hair, over decorated jacket, short skirt. net or plastic T-shirt. Lastly, the firm relation between popular art and fashion was proved by examining the history of Rock Music and Street Style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.88-102
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• 2010

The research examines the characteristics of the sewing methods used for women's Jeogori in modern Korea. The results are following. In the 1920s sewing of shoulder parts was started, and in the 1930s sewing by hand had reduced by dissemination of sewing-machine, and in the 1940s the Som-jeogori declined by the matter of economic and sanitary issues. In the 1950s four-fold sewing emerged, and during the 1960s the gause-lined triple-layered Jeogori was in fashion, and in the 1970s the Ggaeggi-jeogori and much elaborated Jeogori became in vogue. The characteristics of the sewing methods are changed by following factors. First, the dissemination of sewing-machine in the 1930's enabled fast and precise sewing of Jeogori which reduced the rate of clothes mending and the production period. Second, by development of washing method, the dry cleaning became common, resulting cleaner washing and better preservation. Third, introduction of western clothes gave rise to modernized Han-bok which was changed into practical and simple one. Fourth, by the introduction of synthetic textile and industry development, Jeogori with no armhole line or right Seop line was made using wide selection of textiles. Fifth, in 1945~60s, women learned' good wife and wise mother' education and the use of sewing machine in school. The clothing lifestyle affected the sewing method's change, for example, clothes sewed strongly by sewing machine not to take clothes apart, and attaching button instead of Go-reum to save clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.1455-1466
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• 2002

This research focuses on functionalism in American fashion designs which have become the center of public attention in recent. First, documentary studies about how functionalism, which originated in Europe in the beginning of the 20th century, has been developed throughout the 20th century were preceded Second, content analysis was done for the articles, including the word ‘unction’,‘utility’ and ‘practical’in the New York Times and American Vogue from January 1990 to January 2001. As a result, functionalism in 1990s has been developed in different ways from the mechanical, organic, and mea analogies of functionalism in the beginning of 20th century. It doesn't belong to an analogy but has the fused characteristics of those three analogies. It can be classified into techno functionalism influenced by new technology, pure functionalism related to minimalism, sports casual functionalism for those who are crazy about the speed and sports and enjoy the freedom and comfort, and symbolic functionalism which stresses Zen style. More casual manners of formal wear are distinct elements in functionalist fashion design in 1990s. It leads to strong expressions of sports casual functionalism, which plays a great role in sportswear industry of American fashion design. The American fashion designers who were mentioned often in the articles were Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Ralph lauren and Tommy Hilfiger. As well as their works have common formative features based on functionalism, each of them shows his/her own strung color. A]1 of these designers make American fashion design, which can be defined as casual wear or sportswear, very popular worldwide based on the developed American functionalism. Functionalism considering practical and conceptional functions will continue in coming century and techno functionalism and sports casual functionalism in future fashion designs wilt be expressed more strongly with new technology and casual trends of life style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.123-135
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• 2014

This study classifies types of fashion victims and identifies an internal value system that works for their fashion selection. This study reviewed the definition of 'fashion victim' by tracing similar terms such as fashion terrorist, fashion loser, and worst dresser. We classified fashion styles of fashion victims into four types based on an analysis of articles that pertained to Korean celebrities' fashion and image data. The first type is the fashion style of those who dress without any consideration of body shape. The second type is the style for those who have little consideration in regards to personal image. The third type is the style of those who choose a fashion with excessive decoration. The fourth type is the style for those who use too many fashion items at the same time. Based on a consistent analysis of fashion styles, this study identified the internal value system believed to be working in fashion victims' fashion selection. This study presents three internal value system characteristics. The first is the fetishism that is revealed when fashion victims wear expensive clothes or fashion items that are believed to reveal their personal identity and social status. The second is the blindness which becomes apparent when they follow a fashion in vogue indiscriminately without considering a personal image or body shape. The third is an excessiveness shown when individuals select clothes with too many beads or feathers that are decorative and rich in volume.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.111-134
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• 2016

A luxury brand bag is a medium to symbolize brand identity and plays a role in enhancing brand value. A typical example is a designer signature bag such as Hermes Kelly Bag, Birkin Bag, and Lady Dior Bag. The purpose of this study is to analyze the design changes and acceptance of identity of luxury brand bags and examine the design characteristics that succeed to the value of a luxury brand bag. The subjects of the study focused on Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Chanel bags. Photos were collected from www.vogue.co. uk. based on the fashion collections from S/S 2007 to S/S 2016. The study methodology was to analyze the kinds, shapes, colors, materials, and the ornament of subject bags based on previous studies. The results of the study were summarized as follows. For the identity and design changes of each brand, Chanel has tried to combine functionality pursued in the past with constantly changing femininity by making bags in fantastic moods using various materials and free shapes. Gucci has constantly used Ornament elements holding the brand identity of classic bags and trend colors to keep tradition. Louis Vuitton holds fast to its functional shape to protect brand identity through design philosophy that started with a travel luggage and attempts to express modern emotion through Ornament changes. This study confirmed that luxury brands have accepted their unique design characteristics holding brand identity to improve their brand value and attempted to change constructive elements in many different ways for modern reinterpretation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.4 no.1 s.7
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• pp.4-11
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• 2006

Masstige goods aimed consumers who want the fame and the emotional contents with reasonable price are presented overall and around the life style, from all the fashion items like bag and apparel to car, electric household, food, sports goods, furniture, toys, pets and performance of art, etc. Masstige casual, essentially different from the passed casuals which emphasized only price strategy, appeals to teenagers and young of twenties with a definite brand concept. Therefore masstige casual might be separated from business casual of a target aged thirties. Established celebrity brands have launched masstige brands matching the popularization of prestige goods. Armani Exchange from Armani, Marc by Marc Jacobs from Louis Vuitton are representative ones. DKNY from Donna Karen, MiuMiu from Prada, Paul smith Pink from Paul Smith can be added. These are relatively inexpensive, however the quality, design and shop's atmosphere are more exclusive than general brands. Consumers are over middle class and have a pride and fidelity to those brands. Leading Masstige trend, new luxury brands put the importance to the quality and aims middle class. To succeed in this field, companies should know exactly what consumers want, considering not only functional aspect but also emotional pleasure. Even though masstige has a weakness in pricing, it has to keep brand's proper benefit. Its price range could be wide to be in great demand but has to have elasticity and not to be expanded too much. Masstige industry should do its best not to damage original brand's identity. Forming family brand, like Armani made Georgic Armani, Emporio Armani and Armani exchange, system of parent brand and sub brands would be recommendable. From the launching time, masstige needs the effects to create a sensation and bring it into vogue and offer emotional value to the consumers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.1 no.1 s.1
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• pp.65-78
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• 2003

This research is to provide practical help in learning hair and makeup illustration skills by presenting techniques for hair and makeup drawing; to serve efficient illustration education; and to enhance the status of beauty and contribute to artistic development. Hair style and makeup techniques include graphical one, pattern-centered one, one using pattern paper, simplifying one and mood one expressing image. Of them, this research made the illustrations to use cosmetics, color pencils and pastel based on the graphical technique. for each design of the illustrations, ethnic, sexy, natural, romantic and gorgeous images, which were considered to be appropriate to the graphical technique, were chosen by the researcher out of hair and makeup styles that appeared in the fashion magazines including Vogue, Gap, Mode et Mode from 2000 through 2001. In particular, they were chosen with focusing on basic styles. The summaries below were found with the experience of making illustrations. Various techniques and skills are required to express the ideas of hair and makeup styles. Of them, the graphical technique is very useful as the primary step to learn various techniques and improve drawing skills. First, the graphical technique may enable not only expressing what is desired to draw as is, but also accurately representing hair and makeup designs so as to convey objective expression. In this regard, it is a proper way to achieve its inherent purpose as conveyance of messages. Second, more accurate styling of hair and makeup is available through graphical expression, which helps understand related practical techniques. In addition, makeup illustration, which is expressed through direct makeup products and instruments, may serve skill improvement since such direct use provides the feeling of real makeup. Third, the graphical technique as a basic drawing skill may unrestrictedly show the artist's expression ability. Fourth, although artistic merits implying individuality and creativity should be shared through illustrations that express the artist's ideas or emotions, the graphical technique is the easiest method to beginners who just started learning of illustration, in that it enables expression without highly advanced skills.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.10 no.7
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• pp.233-243
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• 2010

Thanks to the rapid advance of modern technology in industrial society, economic and material abundances have not only caused a variety of cultural industry to develop but also brought about the development of beauty treatment industry. Like this, the industry has continually expanded into the public rapidly by forming a new beauty trend along with the growth of mass media such as T.V, advertisement, vogue magazine, and film. And make-up is also broadening its artistic areas by utilizing various expression skills and consistently changing with beauty trends, which has influences on Make-up Illustration. As a result, it has been recognized as a new conception of 'art' expanding in interpretation of communicating with the masses under condition of modern culture and stressed in its part more and more. It is expected that Make-up Illustration playing an important role in the exchange of fashion trend information between beauty treatment industry and people will be studied in different-image-expression ways to raise its artistic value and be a useful material for research and creation activities in the foreseeable future by Make-up Illustration made of computer graphics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.29-47
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• 1995

Today, we live in the fastly changing society, rapidly developing scientific civilization and repeatly confusing political culture. Therefore, man persuits the emotional rest in "eros" and sympathizes with eroticism. Such an eroticism represents too much in art and costume all over the world. the purpose of this study is to classify the ex-pressive style of eroticism which is the feature of the costume in the first year of 1990's and to analyze its expression meaning. This study will be a basic data of new design development and help predict the costume in the latter half of the yeat. The method of this study was performed by using the literature related to the eroticism and the study of preceeding researchers. To analyze the costume style the its implied meaning being used to express the eroticism of 1990's, the magazines(Elle, Vogue, WWD, Collections etc) and the literatures related to fashion were used. The styles and meaning of eroticism expressed eroticism by using the minimal design which exposes wholly or partly by using a transparent vinyl and a see-through clothing. The sexy style arose from the expression of social rebellion and the exposure of suppressive sex as a psychological repulsion against the older generation. 2) Deshabille style : This style is the conver-sion to the outer garment of an underwear. The excessive exposure which just concerns the inti-mate parts of the body by using the thin cloth or lace for an underwear. This style can be recognized as the beauty destruction and ugly 3) Glamour style : The style is made up of the high-grade cloth such as silk and velvet and expresses the bodily beauty. This style falls into a rebellious culture and comes from the inten-tional expression to escape the modern life which is straight and hard. 4) metallic style : This style uses variously the new material such as vinyl-coating, enamel and represents the eroticism through the original expressions.pressions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.195-210
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• 1997

Movie clothing is what is recreated as a character in work after being worn for actors (or actresses). And it is not added for heightening only fantasy but it acts for heightening only fantasy but it acts for reinforcing the side of character or subject. Especially the clothing in color movie gets to have very psychological effect. Thus Accord-ing to the clothing the effect of the represen-tation style may become large and small. So as to make the gesture or attitude of each character valuable in accordance with the ac-tion and expression of the figure clothing is different from other device essentially One may attain various goals through the color of movie clothing, First movie clothing may show the vogue color of the time and the representative time color, Second the color of movie clothing helps one to able to recognize the socio-econmic position of character easily as the color to symbolize the specific jobs such as nurse soldier and doctor etc. Third the color of movie clothing may show the charcter temperament as to whether one is young or old and whether one has pessi-mistic temperament or one is extrovert or introversive etc. easily. Fourth setting the clothing color of hero as the color to set off helps it easy to distinguish from representation staffs. Fifty the whole color establishment of movie clothing gives help to expressing the at-mosphere of movie. Color is one of the most powerful means that the person in charge of clothing may express the character of movie. He should ex-press the feature of a wearer with the colors of each clothing through showing the lack of taste of characters or hinting the resistant character with the clothing color which is not suitable for situation or the conservative character with suppressed color etc. Thus he (or she) should express the clothing color which is suitable for being able to express each character by analyzing the work whole through script and grasping the character of each character so as to establish the clothing which is suitable for individual character.