• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.719-730
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to develop the basic patterns of adult womens brassiere therewith, provide for some basic data useful to the brassiere manufacturing which are both functional and fitting. For this purpose, 220 adults women(aged between 20 and 59) were sampled to be measured for their body sizes and tested for their brassiere wearing. The collected data were statistically processed using the SAS 6.12 for Means, Standard Deviation, etc. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. In order to develop the basic patterns of adult womens brassieres, 75A size was selected out of 12 size combination(3 women per 75A size) and then, their brassiere fitting was tested. As a result, the fronts of the basic patterns were found to have such problems as undone front center, poor levelling of upper cups bottom line or lower cups top line, poor shape of upper cups outside top line and shoulder strip position. On the other hand, n the rear side of the basic patterns, the central part of the wing was slightly lifted, while the wing width and straps interval did not befit the full-cup brassiere. The result of this first brassiere fitting test showed that the functionality and aesthetics of the basic pattern brassieres were more or less satisfactory, and thus, the problems were address for the second test. In the second test, the aesthetics, breast-shaping effect and functionality of the basic pattern brassieres were much improved. 2. The basic patterns of adult womens brassieres were characterized by a round cup wired as well as a full cup embracing the entire breasts. Each basic pattern which consisted of upper and lower cups was shaped \"straight(-)\". The basic sizes adopted at the first design stage (see fig. 1-2) was 75A of which was designed as upper foundation basic pattern. At the second stage, the upper body foundation pattern were used to design lower cup, upper cup, front panel and wing in their order.(see fig. 3-5, fig. 8)5, fig. 8)

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.988-995
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• 2015

Gaps between the upper edges of brassiere mold cups and the breasts are one of the most serious issues in realizing comfort wearing of commercial brassieres for small-breasted women. The surplus ease amounts causing the fit problem were measured from 3D wearing images of the small-breasted women's brassieres. The effect after the removing the surplus ease amounts from the upper edge of mold cup was approved by subjective wearing evaluation. Since the volume distribution of mold cup can also affect the wearing sensation of brassiere, the subjective wearing sensation was compared for two brassieres of different volume distributions, V_L, of which volume was concentrated at the lower cup, and V_C, which has the thickest part at the nipple. As the results, the suitable sensation for cup volume and the natural wearing silhouette could be accomplished by removing the surplus ease amounts from the upper edge of mold cup to reduce the gaps between brassieres and the breasts, which could be accomplished through an approach reducing the volume near the upper edge of mold brassiere cup and making the volume concentrated at the lower cup. These works provide a useful information on the design of the brassiere mold cups for small-breasted women. Moreover, modeling methods of 3D scan data and 3D printing technique for making more accurate mold cases used in this research can be helpful to develop and evaluate clothing products in future.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.81-92
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop the applied brassiere pattern of women which are fitting for 75A. The constructing of this experimental brassiere were lower cup, upper cup, front panel and U-wing as well as a full cup embcing the entire breasts. Basing on the bra model from domestic experiment results, development of an applied design, round side type pattern, has been suggested. Thus, suggesting the round variation design bra, which is an applied design based on the basic model based on the breast volume. Based on the sizes that are in reference to Size Korea (2004) and related previous researches, the basic model that has been experimented with 11.4% polyurethane and 88.6% Nylon as the materials, has been selected as the model of research. This takes 75A, the size of which is set according to the underbust circumference and the breasts circumference, as the basic model. It is an application in terms of design, and there is no change to the cup volume or size because it has been moved only from the cutting line. The applied design changes the right side of the lower cup into an easily-movable form and attaches it to the upper cup, and the lower cup takes the right part of the upper cup to form a cup shape of round variation design. It also changes basic straight form of the wings, and alters them into U-shape.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권6호
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• pp.821-832
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop grading method of the basic brassiere patterns therewith, provide for 12 size's brassiere patterns and prove fitness of their's and shape. The collected data were statistically processed using the SAS 6.12 for Means, Standard Deviation, etc. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The basic sizes adopted at the first design stage (see fig.1-2) were 75AA, 75A and 75B each of which was designed as upper foundation basic pattern in reference to the cup size. At the second stage, each of the upper body foundation basic pattern was used to design lower cup, upper up, front panel and wing in their order(see fig.3-6). At the third stage, the other sizes were graded in reference to the three brassiere patterns (75AA, 75A and 75B) to produce 12 brassiere sizes(see Tab. 7-8). In order to develop the basic patterns of adult women's brassieres, 33 women were selected per 11 size combination(3 women per size combination), and then, their brassiere fitting was teated. As a result, the fronts of the basic patterns were found to have such problems as undone front center, poor levelling of upper cup's bottom line or lower cup's top line, poor shape of upper cup's outside top line and shoulder strip position. On the other hand, on the rear side of the basic patterns, the central part of the wing was slightly lifted, while the wing width and straps'interval did not befit the ful1-cup brassiere. The result of this first brassiere fitting test showed that the functionality and aesthetics of the basic pattern brassieres were more or less satisfactory, and thus, the problems were addressed for the second teat. In the second test, the aesthetics, breast-shaping effect and functionality of the basic pattern brassieres were much improved. 2. We were to present the final brassiere sizing system to extend the interior length of breast and the exterior length of breast on the basis of fitting test. Thereby, 75B$.$80A$.$80B$.$85A$.$85B's the interior lengths of breast were enlarged to 0.7cm, the rest size was enlarged to 0.5cm and the exterior length of breast was enlarged to 0.5cm regardless of sizes. 3. The upper foundation basic patterns of 75AA and 75B were presented and and the basic brassiere pattern and grading pattern were presented through to.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.122-130
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to develop the appropriate brassiere pattern for women. Total of 6 brands with same design and 75A, 80A size brassieres(total 12 brassieres) were compared and analyzed for pattern, cup size and patterns. SPSS 10.1 statistic process was used for data analysis. The outcom of this study is summarized as follows. Total length of brassiere by grade were performed smaller than the standard difference 5cm. For 1/2 front cover length, There were no significant differences between 75 and 80. The reason for lower line of wing is shorter than upper line of wing is because side support is cut side ways considering lower line of wing is sewn more toward front than upper line of wing. Even it is same A cup size most cup related sizes become larger according to underbust comparing with cup capacity, they range from 146.67cc to 172.83cc for same A cups. Among same A cups with difference underbust there was average of 26.16cc differences. For relations of material, sewing technology and expansion rate, all 6 brands had zigzag type sewing for upper line tape. For every 0.3cm height, there were $17{\sim}21$ stitches. When urethane mixture is similar expansion rate is higher while number of 1 inch zigzag are high. For elasticity, zigzag stitch expand side ways for more expansion.

• 한국안전학회지
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.35-40
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• 2010

Explosion limit and flash point are the major combustion properties used to determine the fire and explosion hazards of the flammable substances. In this study, in order to predict upper explosion limits(UEL), the upper flash point of n-alcohols were measured under the VLE(vapor-liquid equilibrium) state by using Setaflash closed cup tester(ASTM D3278). The UELs calculated by Antoine equation using the experimental upper flash point are usually lower than the several reported UELs. From the given results, using the proposed experimental and predicted method, it is possible to research the upper explosion limits of the other flammable substances.

• 한국안전학회지
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.59-64
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• 2011

Explosion limit and flash point are the major combustion properties used to determine the fire and explosion hazards of the flammable substances. In this study, in order to predict upper explosion limits(UELs), the upper flash point of n-alkanes and aromatic compounds were measured under the VLE(vapor-liquid equilibrium) state by using Setaflash closed cup tester(ASTM D3278). The UELs calculated by Antoine equation and chemical stoichiometric coefficient tusing the experimental upper flash point were compared with the several reported UELs. From the given results, using the proposed experimental and predicted method, it is possible to research the upper explosion limits of the other flammable substances.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.1211-1221
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• 2007

To provide the basic information of the brassiere development for women with poor breast, we performed the survey on their wearing habits for brassieres by comparing the poor breast type women and the normal breast type women. Also, to suggest the advanced design methods for the mould brassiere for the poor breast women, we conducted the subjective wear test of commercial mould brassieres and measured the local thickness for mould cup under various loads. As the results, the good fitness of cup and wire, the natural wear silhouette, and the adaptation of soft and stretchy material for mould cup were very important to design the comfortable brassiere for the poor breast type. The good-fitness of upper cup was the key factor for the satisfactory wear appearance of brassiere and the cup should be designed not too thick at the upper and the bust point regions.

• 한국소성가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국소성가공학회 1994년도 춘계학술대회 논문집
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• pp.175-182
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• 1994

Effect of some process variables including area reduction, stroke advance, materials on the extrusion load, plastic flow and height ratio of upper to lower extruded parts in the cup-cup axisymmetric extrusion were experimentally investigated and analyzed. Deformed pattern is visualized by grid-marking technique using half-cut billets splitted. The influence of using split specimen and original specimen on the extrusion load and height ratio is examined by experiment.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.15-26
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designing and making of brassiere with the consideration of the physiological nature of man. Each of 3/4-cup wired upward-support-type Mold Bra of 75 size with basic pad made at three representative domestic companies (A, B and C Company) was selected for analysis of pattern and components. The following is the result of this study. 1. That Company A's bra had the highest cup, relatively narrow width, the widest front-center and the highest front center at front pad. That of Company B had relatively short wing over the base and much difference at the height of cup depending on the presence of wire. That of Company C had low and wide cup, the widest bust span and the front center width, the front center height of front pad, the base length of front pad and the length of wings were observed to be of the figures between those of Company A and B. 2. The Bra of Company A had the biggest front center angle of $6^{\circ}$, while that of Company C had the biggest wing angle of $18^{\circ}$. The Bra of Company B showed the biggest difference of patterns depending on the presence of wire. Those of Company A and C showed very similar shape when wire was inserted. 3. The order of making brassiere is following: making of exterior mold cup${\rightarrow}$ sewing exterior cup and circumference of mold${\rightarrow}$ sewing base and wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to base${\rightarrow}$ sewing cup and main pad${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to upper sides and upper part of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing wire-tape to interior base of cup${\rightarrow}$ inserting of wire inside wire-tape${\rightarrow}$ sewing hook & eye on the back of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing shoulder string.