• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.93-107
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• 2018

A questionnaire survey was conducted on male and female college students living in Busan in May 2015 to study customer types and purchasing behaviors based on the benefit sought from undergarments. This study used a total of 460 data reports collected from 203 male and 257 female college students. The results of this study were as follows. First, the undergarment benefits sought were divided into material and function, harmony of outerwear and underwear and design. Consumers were categorized into function seekers, brand and design seekers, and undergarment indifferent customers. In addition, while male college students were likely to be function seekers, female college students were mostly brand and design seekers. Second, both male and female respondents showcased significant differences in the undergarment benefits sought depending on their customer type. Based on the customer type, male college students showed a greater difference in the undergarment benefits they sought when compared to their female counterparts, and marked differences were found in male respondents' undergarment material and function factors and female respondents' harmony factor of outerwear and underwear. Based on their sex, a significant difference in the harmony factor of outerwear and undergarments was observed. Third, after examining the purchasing behavior influenced by the customer type, this study found that both male and female students had undergarment purchasing behavior differences depending on their customer type, while function seekers and design seekers were likely to exhibit similar behaviors in purchasing undergarments regardless of their sex, except for their preferred image and purchasing method of undergarments. However, among the indifferent group of customers, there were significant differences depending on their sex.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.37-45
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• 2006

Jean Paul Gaultier, debuted in 1970's and referred to as a bad boy in Paris fashion industry with his abnormal and ingenious ideas such as skirts for men, underwear outfit, etc, is a leading fashion designer. This study nay find its meaning from the fact that this study defines how the voluptuous beauty, one of the figurative beauties inherent in Jean Paul Gaultier's design, expresses in the movie costume and understands the world of the designer's fashion to provide a foundation to fashion designers who are looking for a new area where they can actively involve in. For the study, the 'The Fifth Element (1997)', in which the voluptuous beauty, Jean Paul Gaultier's representative figurative beauty, is fully revealed, and also it is his latest movie he participated in as costume designer, was selected and costume design is analyzed using DVD screen capture program. Also, this study reviewed his design with his collections from 1997 when he was invited to Haute Couture and began to actively perform his works down to date and also referred to numerous materials, fashion magazines, movie magazines, Internet data and etc. From the results of analyzing Jean Paul Gaultier collections, firs, the beauty he is pursuing is projected broadly in three types- the voluptuous beauty from clothing innovation, the voluptuous beauty from unpolished nature, the voluptuous beauty from exposure. Second, the movie ${\ulcorner}$The Fifth Element${\lrcorner}$ is well revealed the world of Jean Paul Gaultier's art presenting visual amusement and variety of attractions. Finally, the results of analyzing costume by characters say that the clothing innovation and the voluptuous beauty from exposure on Leeloo's costume, the voluptuous beauty from exposure on Korben Dallas's costume, the voluptuous beauty from unpolished nature on Zorg and Ruby Rhod's costumes are well shown respectively.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.127-139
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to understand the preference of fashion materials according to the degree of consciousness and satisfaction of body. A survey was conducted using the randomly selected 439 woman students in the twenties. The consciousness variable had three levels which were lean, medium, and obese shape for each whole, upper and lower body with self-consciousness. Also, satisfaction variable had three levels which were satisfying, average, and unsatisfying group. We analyzed the data using analysis of correlation, crosstabulation analysis, and analysis of variance including Duncan multiple test. The results were as follows: 1) There was the positive correlation between height, leg, and arm length, and each variable, and the negative correlation between back, hip, thigh, waist, lower leg, ankle, and upper arm, and each variable. Also, we could observe the pattern that the larger the head or the more the weight was, the lower the satisfaction of body was. 2) There were no strong correlation between breast and hand size and each variable. From the crossed classification, we could observe the trend that the smaller the breast was, the lower the satisfaction of body was. 3) There were the strong correlation between whole and upper body in consciousness degree and between whole and lower body in satisfaction. 4) The consciousness of the whole body was shown lean shape 23.4%. medium shape 49.2%, and obese shape 27.2%. For the satisfaction degree of the whole body, satisfaction was shown 6.8%, average 41.7% and unsatisfaction 51.4%, so the satisfaction group is very small. 5) From the analysis for the consciousness degree of the whole body, the preferred fashion materials were polyester and acetate in casual wear, linen, polyester, acryl, T/W, and polyurethan in formal wear, and cotton, nylon, TIC, and T/W in sports wear. There was significant difference in casual wear, formal wear, and sports wear, but, not in underwear and accessories among he consciousness groups. 6) From the analysis for the satisfaction degree of the whole body, the preferred fashion materials were linen, silk, and acetate in casual wear, cotton in underwear, polyurethane in formal wear, and nylon in sports wear. There was the significant difference in casual wear, underwear, formal wear and sports wear, but, not in accessories among the satisfaction groups.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.642-652
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to understand the concept of a sexual image and verify the method of its design expression through case studies of the sexual image evening dress shown in an Haute Couture Collection over the last 10 years (2005~2014). The results of analysis are as follows: First, "expression by the seeing through of the natural body" expressed a natural sexual image that combined fashion of the previous times with the beauty of the natural body by using a see-through material and classic or ethnic image. Second, "expression of a sexual-image look that emphasizes romantic detail" illustrated a romantic sexual image that emphasizes feminine sensitivity by mixing various ornamental elements such as see-through material and symbolism of underwear image. Third, "creation of a nude look using skin color" expressed sexual image of an evening dress by inducing erotic sexual association through a combination of opaque material of skin color and design shape that is intended for body exposure. Fourth, "combination of sexual symbol and heterogeneous elements" expressed a decadent, avant-garde and futuristic sexual images by using women's underwear and a sexual symbol as design motif and mixed with mismatching elements. Fifth, "use of a fantastic black image" expressed an exclusive and refined sexual image and a decadent and primitive sexual image by using a fantastic image of black color. The results of this study are expected to be used for the design process of the evening-dress industry that aims for quality improvement.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.129-144
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• 2000

In the history of the costume of Western Europe one of the most interesting apects is that the silhouette of women's dress has been continuously evolved. There can be various origins in this changing silhouette but the most important origin is that clothes of any period are the reflection of the architectural political religious and economic background against which they are worn they must also be djusted to the texture and design of the materials produced at the time and of course there is always the basic instinct of sex attraction. The changing line in men's and women's clothes has been demanded by each period but man's great active life did not required the development of exaggerated line which could restrict his movements. Exaggeration in men's clothes has usually been confined to accessories only details could be simplified or abandoned altogether in time of action. However Woman has no great concern in these restrivtions and when an era demanded an exaggerated silhouette she developed it to the utmost limit with out any hesitation plunged herself into whalebone cane and steel for the desired line and then later to adapt herself to a changing world just as without any hesitaion abandoned all these artificial props. In this study first of all the origin of the corset and the evolution of silhouette will be chronologically studied and rearranged on the basis of written materials such as text books theses and catalogs which are related to corset In this section the most important backgrounds-social religious and economic-which caused the chages of silhouette will be scrutinized in a time order. Then the shapes and functions of corsets will be looked into in a more detailed way. In addition the materials and decorations which were preferred to achieve the desired silhouette will be examined. Finally underwear which was and has been worn for cleanness protection the shapes of outer clothes and erotic mood will be studied.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.126-140
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the fashion design applying to the hoop, which have become various since 1980. To do this, this study is investigated the origin and the changes of the hoop historically, then classified its types, and finally analyze the collections from 1980 to 2003. The hoop was appeared on the late 15th century. Then in the mid 16th century, bell-shaped farthingale was prevailed, followed by drum-shaped wheel farthingale and hausse-cul in England and France. In the 17th century, slim silhouette was popular, so that the hoop declined gradually. In the 18th century, panier and panier double were introduced which is to make side-expanded skirt silhouette. In the 19th century, crinoline and bustle were created. The hoops applied to modern collections are used various materials, techniques, and forms. It is a main item of historicism which appeared in the trend of post-modernism and the phenomenon of applying underwear to an outer garment like corset. The hoop is adapted into three ways: only with the frame of hoop, wearing a skirt with some parts of the frame exposed on purpose, and wearing a skirt on the frame, thus not showing the frame. Thus, it is thought that wearing a hoop as a frame is used an element of recreation of past fashion, at the same time it was affected by historicism which is a branch of post-modernism. Applying the hoop as an outer garment may be affected by eroticism which changed underwear into an outer wear in postmodernism and deconstructivism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.11
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• pp.1309-1321
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• 2011

Clothes for a 3 to 6 year-old toddler should be made in consideration of their behavioral characteristics since it is when the physical ability of toddlers has rapidly developed and their social, emotional, and cognitive development are increasingly active. Indoor clothes are the item that consumers prefer because they provide the function of outside underwear when functioning as outerwear when indoors that is used frequently for toddlers. We analyzed the wearing condition and the uncomfortable aspects of toddler's clothes worn indoors through consumer surveys of toddler wear. This study gathers data for the development of indoor clothing that is useful for 3-6 year old toddlers. Consumer surveys indicate that the clothes most worn indoors were underwear (69.4%). The most important aspect in the selection of indoor clothes was the suitability for activities (29%). The preferred colors for indoor clothes were found to be pastel-tone colors (66%). Regarding the uncomfortable aspects of indoor clothes, knees of the clothes (36.8%) have the most naps and the breast of the clothes (37.8%) dirty quickly. Knee parts (35.4%) become worn easily; in addition, the material for the knee area is likely to have naps and require special functions. In conclusion, designing toddler clothing requires elaborated design techniques that consider the characteristics of the subject group and reduce inconveniences. This study will serve as preliminary data to develop ultimate products that have the functionality to meet gender behavior characteristics and the aesthetics for toddlers 3 to 6 years of age.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.46-60
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• 2016

Countries have different brassiere patterns, and this study produced and compared 3/4 brassiere patterns from different countries to determine the difference in patterns, and to investigate the stress distribution and shape of cross section while wearing brassieres using 3D virtual fitting system. Despite the growing interest in underwear, there is a lack of related books and research on brassiere patterns, which causes the difference in sizes and pattern drafting methods by countries. Thus, research on this is needed. 3D virtual fitting system has been introduced to compare patterns, thereby improving visible effects and reducing the loss in cost caused by underwear pattern fitting test. According to the result of pattern analysis, The Secoli type exhibited the least breast cover rate (14.9 cm), while the largest cover rate was shown in Christina and ESMOD types (17.7 cm). It is believed that the difference in pattern drafting causes the difference in the total length of a brassiere. Furthermore, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres drafted from basic bodice pattern were found to be longer than the Christina and Han Sunmi brassieres attained from direct pattern drafting. Moreover, the darts' volume of upper and lower cups in Christina and Han Sunmi types was similar in shape. The shapes of cradle drafted from basic bodice pattern were a straight line, while those from direct drafting formed a curved shape. In fitting multiple cross sections, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres had gaps between the brassieres and the body. Among these, the largest number of gaps was observed in the ESMOD type pattern. This study aimed at performing comparative analysis of various brassieres' pattern drafting types as a basic research for developing a brassiere pattern drafting type.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.90-100
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• 2017

In this research, consumer awareness investigation and wearing test were carried out for obtaining useful data on the development of thermo-sensitive functional clothing material. A survey involved 216 people in Seoul and Kyeonggi-do, and 200 questionnaires data were analyzed by descriptive statistics and frequency using SPSS 17.0. Four healthy men in twenties were participated for wearing test. Subjects in normal loungewear were exposed to temperature change from the initial temperature $30^{\circ}C$ down to $5^{\circ}C$ for an hour in a climate chamber. The environmental temperature, surface temperature of garment and skin were measured. As a result, most of respondents have all season clothing products such as underwear, hosiery, and jogging suit for loungewear. Also, thermo regulator y functional clothes are frequently used as underwear and sweat shirt. The consumer awareness investigation on thermo regulatory functional clothing showed that the most important key buying factor is quick climate temperature response, easy maintenance, design and cost, in that order. Surface temperature of garment went down with the cooling down of environmental temperature. The lower environmental temperature, the greater temperature difference by body part showed. Skin temperature change by environmental temperature showed similar tendency of garment surface temperature. In comparison between garment surface and body skin, temperature difference became larger under the lower environmental temperature.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.29-47
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• 1995

Today, we live in the fastly changing society, rapidly developing scientific civilization and repeatly confusing political culture. Therefore, man persuits the emotional rest in "eros" and sympathizes with eroticism. Such an eroticism represents too much in art and costume all over the world. the purpose of this study is to classify the ex-pressive style of eroticism which is the feature of the costume in the first year of 1990's and to analyze its expression meaning. This study will be a basic data of new design development and help predict the costume in the latter half of the yeat. The method of this study was performed by using the literature related to the eroticism and the study of preceeding researchers. To analyze the costume style the its implied meaning being used to express the eroticism of 1990's, the magazines(Elle, Vogue, WWD, Collections etc) and the literatures related to fashion were used. The styles and meaning of eroticism expressed eroticism by using the minimal design which exposes wholly or partly by using a transparent vinyl and a see-through clothing. The sexy style arose from the expression of social rebellion and the exposure of suppressive sex as a psychological repulsion against the older generation. 2) Deshabille style : This style is the conver-sion to the outer garment of an underwear. The excessive exposure which just concerns the inti-mate parts of the body by using the thin cloth or lace for an underwear. This style can be recognized as the beauty destruction and ugly 3) Glamour style : The style is made up of the high-grade cloth such as silk and velvet and expresses the bodily beauty. This style falls into a rebellious culture and comes from the inten-tional expression to escape the modern life which is straight and hard. 4) metallic style : This style uses variously the new material such as vinyl-coating, enamel and represents the eroticism through the original expressions.pressions.