Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume (한국복식학회)
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Comparative Pattern Analysis and the Fitness Evaluation of Brassieres using 3D virtual clothing simulation - Focusing on Cross Section of Human Body Shape & Changing of Silhouette -

3D virtual clothing simulation을 활용한 국가별 브래지어 패턴 비교 - 인체 형상 단면도와 실루엣 변화 분석을 중심으로 -

  • Shin, Ju-Young Annie (Dept. of Fashion Design, Soongeui Womens University) ;
  • Nam, Yun-Ja (Dept. of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design/Research Institute of Human Ecology, Seoul National University) ;
  • Kim, Kyoung Sun (Dept. of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design, Seoul National University)
  • Received : 2016.08.29
  • Accepted : 2016.12.05
  • Published : 2016.12.31
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Abstract

Countries have different brassiere patterns, and this study produced and compared 3/4 brassiere patterns from different countries to determine the difference in patterns, and to investigate the stress distribution and shape of cross section while wearing brassieres using 3D virtual fitting system. Despite the growing interest in underwear, there is a lack of related books and research on brassiere patterns, which causes the difference in sizes and pattern drafting methods by countries. Thus, research on this is needed. 3D virtual fitting system has been introduced to compare patterns, thereby improving visible effects and reducing the loss in cost caused by underwear pattern fitting test. According to the result of pattern analysis, The Secoli type exhibited the least breast cover rate (14.9 cm), while the largest cover rate was shown in Christina and ESMOD types (17.7 cm). It is believed that the difference in pattern drafting causes the difference in the total length of a brassiere. Furthermore, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres drafted from basic bodice pattern were found to be longer than the Christina and Han Sunmi brassieres attained from direct pattern drafting. Moreover, the darts' volume of upper and lower cups in Christina and Han Sunmi types was similar in shape. The shapes of cradle drafted from basic bodice pattern were a straight line, while those from direct drafting formed a curved shape. In fitting multiple cross sections, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres had gaps between the brassieres and the body. Among these, the largest number of gaps was observed in the ESMOD type pattern. This study aimed at performing comparative analysis of various brassieres' pattern drafting types as a basic research for developing a brassiere pattern drafting type.

Keywords

References

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