• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.715-724
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• 2003

The Korean clothing culture has shown rapid changes along with influences of western cultures, with social changes due to the liberation from Japan, the Korean War, and the economic growth concentrated on export since the westernization of Korea had begun. Also clothing materials, as a phase of such culture, have been changed. Among silk fabrics, "Dan (단: damask of satin texture with Korean traditional patterns are inwoven)", which has been concerned one of the most beautiful and precious fabrics due to its complexity and difficulty of processing. Since the beginning of the Era of Enlightenment(Kae-hwa-gi), Dan fabric materials and weaving methods have changed. It seems that the figured texture using the Jacquard loom began in 1936. when the Jacquard machine began to be imported from Japan into Korea. From that time on, new fabric materials, such as yangdan (양단), and popdan (법단), hobakdan (호박단), silk and rayon mixed Dan(교직양단) began to be produced. Before 1950's there were some restrictions about the Number of wefts, so the production of the one colored dan(단색단) was more common than that of the multi colored dan(다색단). But with the spread of 4$\times$4 shuttle box loom (양사정직기), various kinds of the multi colored dan have been produced after 1960's. Around the end of 1980's, automatic shuttle change loom have been generalized and 7 color dan(칠색단), 9 color gumsadan (구색금사단) have been current in multi colored dan. In terms of materials, synthetic and chemical textiles had been used widely and alter 1980's most fabrics, of which the ground weave is not being woven with satin-weave but being woven with plain or twill-weave, are named Dan in general.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.1 s.160
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• pp.1-10
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• 2007

This research was designed to compare the subjective evaluation of Hand between on- and off-line by structure and sensible characteristics of fabric. 113 subjects who have a fashion design major evaluated the subjective evaluation of Hand of various 16 kinds of specimens on- and off-line. T-test and pearson correlation coefficient were used for statistical analysis by SPSS WIN 11.0. The results of this study were as follows: The results of correlation analysis of the evaluation score indicated that Crash and Satin show high correlation between two kinds of evaluation score. But, fabrics which have distinct characteristics such as Plush, Dobby, Seersucker represented low correlation coefficient. The results of t-test fer the difference of the evaluation score showed that thin fabrics like Organdy represent a large difference between on- and off-line evaluation. On the other hand, twill weaved fabrics like Drill, Tweed, Saxony did not show many differences. Analysing each item in terms of correlation of evaluation of hand between on- and off-line gave results that the shininess was most deliverable through on-line and density and the dryness was not so deliverable through on-line. Comparison of evaluation score between on- and off-line items showed that the estimation to real fabric is more negative than that of on-line. The results of most preferable hand between on-and off-line showed exact opposite preference between shinny, smooth and soft Satin and rough, woolen Tweed. Organdy showed the most different subjective evaluation of hand in real ones compared with that of on-line.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.18
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• pp.35-50
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• 2017

As part of the NMK's research project on wooden Buddha statues, four items which contained fabric among their bokjang objects(腹藏物) were investigated. Firstly, when classified by the method of weaving, two items made of ra (羅, a four-end complex gauze) silk and five of neung(綾, twill damask) silk from the Goryeo era were identified, and the satin fabrics showing characteristics of the Joseon period were classified as either dan(緞, satin damask) or sa(紗, simple gauze). In particular, the fabric of the bokjang objects enshrined within the gilt-bronze Avalokiteshvara Bodhisattva(Deoksu 801) feature both early and late Joseon characteristics, suggesting that two enshrinements were performed(once in the fifteenth century and another in the seventeenth). Secondly, the patterns on the fabrics included flowers, treasures, fruits, plants with animals, and landscapes with clouds. Thirdly, patches of fabric were found that are assumed to be related with all cardinal directions according to their arrangement, albeit in small quantities.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.1-17
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• 2019

The objective of this study was to investigate electrical conductivity of fabrics from polyester (PET) and Nylon (N) containing polyurethane (PU), with silver paste patterns screen-stenciled in three directions. The PET/PU and N/PU fabrics knitted or woven were uniaxially strain-recovered up to 22.5% in three times when each change in electrical resistance was simultaneously measured. This study established four variables that complexly affected electrical conductivity of these specimens; fabric structures, components, cover factors, and the percolation of silver particles. The woven or knitted fabric structures did not distinctively cause the changes in electrical resistance, however, the woven fabrics with the diagonal patterns showed their relatively high electrical resistance. The PET/PU fabrics with increasing the PET proportion generally presented the opposite propensity to its electrical conductivity. The changes in electric resistance of the PET/PU 85/15 2/1 twill and double plain fabrics instantaneously responded to the rate of elongation. The PET/PU group exhibited a reverse correlation between its cover factor and electrical resistivity. The highest electrical conductivity of the PET/PU 95/5 interlock fabric, with very few fluctuations, was attributed to the deep percolation of the silver particles that bridged the gaps between one loop and another. On the other hand, the occurrence of the silver cracks along with the elongated direction led to the immeasurably high change in electrical resistance as the strain increased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.107-122
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to investigate the changes and developments that occurred as a result of the exchanges of gyeong-geum(經錦), a warp-faced compound weave of East Asia, and wie-geum(緯錦), a weft-faced compound weave of West Asia. In order to maximize the efficiency of this research, topics were narrowed down to the weaving skills and patterns, and the period was limited to the Tang dynasty. The systematic characteristics and differences of gyeong-geum and wie-geum were compared and contrasted through different works of literature. Then the excavated remains of geum-textiles were analyzed and the characteristics of the geum-textiles were defined in chronological order. The origin of wie-geum is traced back to the time when West Asia started to imitate the weaving style of the East Asian gyeong-geum. When combined with the weaving skills of the West Asian, gyeong-geum, which broke through the West and developed into the weft-faced compound twill silk, or samite. The exchange of geum-textiles took place as the techniques of gastric filament woven geum-textiles returned to the East. Along with the pearl roundel motifs of Sassanian Persia, mythical animals and western motifs of hunter patterns were used for the patterns of wie-geumin during the early Tang dynasty. This tendency is related to pa-sa-geum(波斯錦), ho-geum(胡錦), beon-geum(番錦) according to the recorded literature. The 8th and 9th century are periods when the West Asian Persian style was abandoned and the East Asian style, samite, was established. Not only did S twist silk threads replace Z twists, but also the repetition of patterns unfolded along with the weft and the warp. As this tendency was strengthened after the 9th century, the expression of patterns became more vividly colorful and showed both elements of naturalism and realism. The characteristics of the Bosangwha(寶相花) pattern in the Tang period were established with the rampantly repeated rosettes with birds often holding auspicious branches, that fly amid floral compositions.

• Korean Journal of Agricultural and Forest Meteorology
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.135-142
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• 2001

This study attempts to categorizes the factors of forest fire occurrences based on regional meteorologic data and general forest no characteristics of 18 cities and guns in Kangwon province. lo accomplish this goal, some statistical analyses such as analysis of variance, correspondence analysis and multidimensional scaling were adopted. To reveal the forest fires pattern of study region, a categorization process was conducted by employing the quantification approach which modified and quantified the metric-data of fire occurrence dates. Also, The fire occurrence similarity was compared by using multidimensional scaling for each study region. The major results are summarized as follows: It was found that the meteorological factors emerged as different to each region are average and maximum temperature, minimum dew point temperature and average and maximum wind speed. In the result of correspondence analysis representing relationships between fire causes and study regions, Kangrung is caused by arsonist, Chulwon, Hwachen and Yanggu caused by military factor, Sokcho and Chunchen caused by the debris burning, and Samchuk caused by general man-caused fires, respectively. Finally, the forest fire occurrence pattern of this study regions were divided into five areas such as, group I including Samchuk, Kangryung, Chunchen, Wonju, Hongchen and Hhoingsung, group II including Donghae, Taebaek, Yangyang and Pyongchang, group III including Jungsun, Chulwon and Whachen, group Ⅵ including Gosung, Injae and Yanggu, and group V including Shokcho and Youngwol.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.3
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• pp.1-11
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• 1963

This treatise is to set up a fundamental condition of checking silk lousiness and to set up a new improving method of cocoon bave lousiness after super refining treatment. It is also studied whether silk lousiness can be eliminated through the observation of the silk gland, or the lousiness can be able to improve through such a study. The conclusions obtained in this paper are as follows. 1. Silk lousiness is able to be observed most properly when the light direction and the fiber direction are parallel in plan view of the silk cloth and the greater the angle between them is, the less the lousiness is observed. When, however, the angle is greater than some specific angle(30$^{\circ}$), no more lousiness is observed. This specific angle is named by the author as Lousiness Horizontal Critical Angle. 2. Silk lousiness can be observed when the angle of light incidence against the silk cloth is six degrees, while the larger the angle is, the less the lousiness is observed. When, however, the angle is greater than same specific angle(45$^{\circ}$) the lousiness disappears. Such a specific angle is named by the author as Lousiness Vertical Critical Angle. 3. The best textile composition to decrease lousiness defect is plan weave, while twill and satin weave show more lousiness with the same silk fiber. 4. Lousiness was classified as Lousiness A, B, ana C of which A was the general lousiness, B was the group type, and C was the glucose type and the standard photographs for the lousiness grading of these types were prepared. 5. The proper soap-refining hours of silk for lousiness test was eight hours. 6. The greater the difference of fiber diameter between the cocoon single bave and the splitend was, the more lousiness was composed. The normal splitends were measured as 1/4-1/5 of the main fiber. 7. The lousiness was found at the cocoon shape ends more than other parts, and found at the middle cocoon layer than other layer which was imagined to be as a result of poor uniform bave spinning of silk worm. 8. Female cocoon had more lousiness than the male cocoon. 9. It was found that there was a great possibility to have the splitends through the observation of the anatomical silkgland, and the author reached a conclusion that the lousiness can be improved to a certain degree only by the elimination of abnormal silk gland from the breeding aspects. 10. The cocoon bave of the offspring after super refining lousiness test and selection showed more improved lousiness defect than that of the parents.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.55 no.2
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• pp.146-165
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to identify differences in the formative characteristics and system of Jobok by comparing the three relics Ui, Sang, and Daedae, which comprised Jeon-Sik's Jobok, with the data in the literature and five excavated Jobok relics, Sin Kyung-yu, Kwon-Woo, Hwasan-Gun, Milchang-Gun, and Lee Ik-jeong, from the 17th and 18th centuries. Jeon-Sik'sJobok was designated as a Gyeongbuk tangible cultural heritage, Sangju JeonSik Jobok and Crafts, in 2021. The three components of Jeon-Sik's Jobok are valuable as historical data since they are the oldest relics confirming colors. Regrettably, the edging fabric of the Ui made of red twill was mostly lost, with only traces remaining. Based on records, it was presumed that the edging fabric was black. It was confirmed that white decorative lines were yet to be used. In Jeon Sik's Sang, only the three front widths and one rear width remain, but the shape of the four rear widths can be inferred, and the creases were held only at the waist. Eighteenth-century Sang was connected at intervals at the end of the waist. Seventeenth-century Sang was connected with a slight overlapping of the rear Sang below the front Sang; therefore, it is assumed that Jeon Sik's Sang was also connected by overlapping the rear by more or less than 5cm below the front. After Hwasan-gun, the Sang was first made using black lines, then white lines were inserted, and, finally, it was pleated from the waist to the hem. The Daedae made the Yo and the Sin by folding the corners to form a 冂 shape with a single long band. The white Ju(紬) and the green yumunsa were used for the Daedae and the edges. This matches the color of the Daedae seen in the Jobok portraits of Milchang-gun, Lee Ik-jeong, and Jeong Hwi-ryang from the 18th century. In the 17th century, the Daedae made the Yo and the Sin by folding a long band like the Daedae of Jeon-Sik. After the 18th century, the Yo and the Sin were made separately and connected. To tie the Daedae to the waist, thin straps were attached at both ends. The relics of Jeon-Sik can be evaluated as reflecting the 17th-century Jobok system in terms of color and shape. Furthermore, it can be said that they are important historical data complementing the insufficient or inaccurate records of the Gukjoolyeui-seolye and Gyeongguk-daejeon.