• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.597-605
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• 2010

This study is about the expression types and characteristics of Trompe l'oeil in modern fashion. The study defines the concept of Trompe l'oeil, examines the Trompe l'oeil in the surrealist works from which the Trompe l'oeil derives from, and analyzes the works that have emerged since 2000. The study used a collection of magazines such as Vogue, Gap, Fashion News, and the Internet. According to the findings, the expression types of Trompe l'oeil in modern fashion were seen in the human body, the wearing style, the details, and accessory effects of clothes. The modern fashion design using the Trompe l'oeil based on such external expressions was characterized by the following: first, the fashion design destroyed the concept of common sense and expressed the purity of the human spirit by revealing the human body hidden in clothes from the combination of clothes and the human body with surrealism. Second, the details or accessories of clothes were printed or painted as if they existed. Pleasure was expressed by applying Trompe l'oeil to the wearing methods and forms of clothes through the optical illusion of materials or colors. Third, the effects of an optical illusion were displayed by transforming and distorting the wearing style and reversing the front, back, exterior and interior of clothes; this optical illusion characterized the deconstruction expressed through the transformation of ideas.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.3
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• pp.17-32
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• 2013

This study examined the visual elements of the Trompe l'oeil design and the combination conditions of each element in order to deduce the form generation diagrams of Trompe l'oeil fashion design. The following is what the study found: First, Trompe l'oeil fashion design can be divided into two based on its subject: 'the combination of internal elements of dress' and 'the combination of external elements of dress'. Looking at the visual components of each type, depending on the subject, 'the combination of internal elements of dress' design was achieved by combining internal dress elements: including textile, detail, item, accessory, layering, etc.. In case of 'the combination of external elements of dress' design, the object of Trompe l'oeil was expanded in scope to environment, which includes the actions of a wearer. Second, as for Trompe l'oeil fashion design through the combination of external dress elements, the condition to combined visual components of the work in the process of creation was related to 'the popularity of object', 'the similarity of shapes and sizes', and 'the probability of location'. Third, deriving a form generation diagrams of Trompe l'oeil fashion design was very effective in delineating specific relationships and conditions, directions among elements combined in fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.880-896
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• 2004

Trompe l'Oeil technique strategically conceived with a view to effectively realize creative ideas among the expression techniques of fine arts style has provided the driving force in development of fine arts and has continuously influenced development of the modem fashion pursuing unique individuality. The study is focused first on finding out how Trompe l'Oeil technique originated in connection with researching the fashion of Trompe l'Oeil and on analysing the technique of expression. The author referred to fashion magazines for designing ideas of Trompe l'Oeil represented in modem fashion in practical applications used by designers in Paris, Italy, London and New York during the 10 year period(1990-1999). The collections of data were analyzed as following: Effectiveness depending on the method of Trompe l'Oeil I. Effectiveness of Layering: when two clothing are over lapped or coordinated with one another in color or style. 2. Effectiveness of Detailing: when pictures, stitch, tape, cutting, quilting and etc are used to create collar, pocket, yoke, zipper, string, shadow and etc. 3. Effectiveness of Accessories: when the image of necklace, belt, tie, tassel, badges and stars are represented by illustration or embroidery on clothing to substitute the actual existence. 4. Effectiveness of Nudity: when human body is realistically drawn and printed on clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.155-171
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• 2002

Trompe-1’oeil technique strategically conceived with a view to effectively realize creative ideas among the expression techniques of fine arts style has provided the driving force in development of fine arts and has continuously influenced development of the modern fashion pursuing unique individuality. The purpose of this study is to open a new horizon for the development of fashion as a practical art, and to seek the expansion of the creative domain and ultimately to contribute to the creation of original and creative fashion by examining the interrelationship between Trompe-1’oeil, which has long been utilized and positioned as one of the leading fine arts techniques with the advent of surrealism in the beginning of the 20th century and the modern fashion. The study is focused first on finding out how Trompe-1’oeil technique originated in connection with researching the fashion of Trompe-1’oeil and on analysing the techniques of expression, and then on investigating into Elsa Schiaparelli, pioneer of Trompe-1’oeil technique to identify her influences, and finally on classifying clothes employing Trompe-1’oeil technique by their expression method to examine how Trompe-1’oeil technique has been applied to modern clothes. As for the research method, the researcher has referred to fine arts books, collection of pictorial records and the like to gain conceptual understanding of Trompe-1’oeil and to examine the expression method and the features of Trompe-1’oeil, and collected and referred to fashion books and fashion marazines to understand Elsa Schiaparelli and the expression tendencies of Tromprf-1’oeil in modern fashions. Particularly, the researcher has attempted to search the correlation between modern fashion and Trompe-1’oeil technique. As a result of this research, the researcher has managed to classify Trompe-1’oeil technique expressed in modern fashion into ‘harmony’, ‘application of the human body’, ‘front and back’, ‘surface and inside’. ‘completion of the incomplete’ and ‘detail.’ The researcher has also noted that Elsa Schiaparelli, a surrealist first applied Trompe-1’oeil technique to clothes and confirmed that quite a few avant-garde clothes designers following Elia Schiaparelli, by using Trompe-1’oeil technique in clothes, recently recreate fresh feelings.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.764-776
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to serve as a reference for creative fashion design by analyzing the types and aesthetic characteristics of trompe l'oeil in contemporary men's fashion. This research is an empirical study that utilizes both qualitative and quantitative methods to analyze fashion design cases and research articles such as academic papers and professional books. The study covers four major men's collections: Paris, Milan, New York, and London. The period being analyzed is from 2005 Spring/Summer, which is widely regarded as a turning point at which men's collections began rapidly, to 2019 Spring/Summer. The study analyzes 471 photos from domestic and international websites, with the following results. Types of trompe l'oeil in contemporary male fashion are classified into four types: (1) the deconstruction of clothing forms or creation methods, (2) optical illusions that create the effect of multiple layers of clothing on a single article of clothing and the reproduction of apparel details and clothing using 2D printing or embroideries, (3) realistic patterns on garments to create a camouflage effect, and (4) articles of clothing containing body images such as the chest, trunk, or internal human anatomy. These aesthetic characteristics in men's fashion design using types of trompe l'oeil are playful, deconstructive, and decorative features based on hyper-reality. This study aims to acknowledge trompe l'oeil as being widely used in contemporary men's fashion as a type of formative art, playing a crucial role in creative fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.3
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• pp.110-122
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressional traits and internal meanings of fake design in the 2000s' fashion, based on study of art and design area. For achieving the purpose, this study performed related research works and a demonstrative analysis of fashion collection photographs. The scope of this study is from 2000 to 2009. The results are as follows. Fake design uses trompe-l'oeil which is an art technique related to the meanings of 'deceive or fool the eye'. This eye-deceiving technique has been used for a long time in the art, and particularly noticed as one of techniques of Surrealism. Art works using trompe-l'oeil express familiar and unreasonable world at the same time, and also the fusion of reality and fabrication. Fake design in design area of the 2000s makes people take daily life in unfamiliar way by unusualness and breaking the boundary between real and fake. By fake design, people can enjoy fun and a sense of freedom with amusement rather than unpleasant of being deceived. Fake design in the fashion of the 2000s uses eye-deceiving technique and also focuses on the concept of 'fake'. The expressional traits were categorized as realistic expression, surrealistic expression and fake value expression. The internal meanings were analyzed as breaking boundary between real and fake, rediscover dailiness, new attitude to traditional thinking. In conclusion, fake design in the fashion of the 2000s gives playfulness, fun, feeling of release and will be pursued continually.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.66-81
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• 2009

The purposes of this study were to analyze the formative relationship between Surrealistic clothes and hat with the focus on the period from the 1990's to 2008 and to find out the development direction of next hat design. The method to analyze the relationship between clothes and hats was the formative analysis by Marian L. Davis and Marilyn R. Delong. Hat design of surrealism was cylindrical or tear drop in a shape according to the principle of $D{\acute{e}}paysement$ and Trompe l'oeil, and was similar with the Form of a jacket, a sleeve, or a skirt. In color, accent color coordination mainly appeared and sometimes contrast color coordination induced illusion effect. In material, a variety of materials were used according to the principle of $D{\acute{e}}paysement$ and Trompe l'oeil, and contrast was widely used like color. In Decoration, the decoration or pattern of clothes was intactly applied to hats. The results suggest that clothes and hat have an organic relationship, and a hat style is changed with formative elements of clothes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.682-693
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• 2013

Camouflage is evaluated by scientific principle in the fields of biology, military science, and art. It has a strong influence on contemporary fashion and means exposure with concealment. This study analyzed the visual characteristics of camouflage patterns in fashion design through documentaries and fashion photos. The fashion design results areas follow. The simple blending of a disruptive motif indicated an inaccurate repetition of a disruptive motif, the discontinuous or continuous connection of disruptive motif, the irregular repetition of a disruptive animal silhouette, the collage of a different disruptive motif, the craft of a disruptive motif and the intensive color match of a disruptive motif. It represented the maximization of complication, fantastic and fanciness. The overlap of a disruptive motif showed the overlap of disruptive print patterns with transparency and an overlap of different fabrics with a disruptive pattern. It represented spatial relationships of three dimensions as well as the maximization of visual illusion and the reinforcement of attractiveness. The blurring of a disruptive motif showed the pointage of disruptive motif, the pointage of image, value gradation, the whole blurring of a disruptive pattern cluster and stained appearance. It represented the obscurity of motif form, the uncertainty of object and double meaning. The trompe l'oeil of a partial background object showed the realistic and the painterly imitation of color and texture for partial objects through a close-up. It represented amazement and pleasure by illusion, scarcity and the decoration of surface and synecdochical remind. In conclusion, camouflage in fashion was weakened and modified from a classical military context by a unique expression of various motifs.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.160-178
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• 2003

Recently, the field of university PR(public relations) and UI(university identity) come to be emphasized as a remarkable one because the applicants to the universities are consistently reduced in Korea. The purpose of this thesis is to present a souvenir for university PR which is designed in a clothing commodity, easily accessible to visitors, helping students and university officials to keep a pride to our university. We have designed four kinds of clothing, ie T-shirts, polo-shirts, trousers, and hats, after scrutinizing those of other universities. By making change the length of sleeves and slacks, the four kinds were transformed into eight kinds of clothing commodities. The basic trend of this design is on the trompe l'oeil, with the colors being white, grey and black ones, which are of 100% cotton.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.143-162
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to suggest more specific method to express art connected to the factor of fashion design by classifying fashion case combined with contemporary art, which is expressed through visual factor of fashion, analyzing exchange phenomenon, trend and change aspect of art and fashion and researching its expression type under the background of art preference phenomenon of contemporary art. From the result of measuring the frequency of contemporary art type, it was found that various types and artists' works were applied to fashion industry. Therefore, the scope of contemporary art, which is used for fashion, is being enlarged and new type is appearing every year continuously. Especially, its frequency was highest in 2008 S/S. In addition, it was found that it was more frequent in S/S season rather than in F/W season. From the result of analyzing expression method of contemporary art inspiration shown in fashion by classifying it into structure aspect, print aspect and 3D decoration aspect, in most cases, the contemporary art was used as a print or pattern for dress or accessory. The print aspect could be divided into geometric abstraction pattern, expressional abstract pattern, trompe-l'oeil pattern, graffiti pattern, picture image pattern and cartoon pattern in detail.