• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.58-67
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• 1997

PTCA(1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid) and BTCA(1,2,3-butanetetracarboxylic acid) are selected as new nonformaldehyde agents for ester crosslinking of cotton cellulose to replace the traditional DMDHEU reagent. A goal of this research is to propose unknown ester mechanism of cotton cellulose by PTCA or BTCA using crystal structure model suggested by Meyer and Takahashi. In pursuit of these goals, we have treated 100% cotton broad cloth with PTCA or BTCA and different catalysts. They were used with $NaH_2PO_2,\;NaH_2PO_4,\;Na_2HPO_4,\;NaH_2PO_2,\;Na_3PO_4,$ catalysts to produce nonformaldehyde fabric finishes. Treatments were applied to all cotton fabrics using a pad-dry -cure process. The esterfication of cotton treated with BTCA or PTCA was investigated using Fourier transform infrared(FT-IR) spectra and the breaking strength, abrasion retention and discoloration properties were determined to prove the durable finished fabrics. Patterns with respect to abrasion resistance were more complex. Because PTCA and BTCA add-ons were comparable, the data suggest that the more effective catalysts, $NaH_2PO_2$ and mixed phosphate $NaH_2PO_2/NaH_2PO_4$) are effecting either a great number of crosslinks in the cotton or producing crosslinks that differ in actual structure.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.227-236
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• 2018

As consciousness of safety becomes an important social issue, the demand for protective clothing is increasing. Conventional flame-retardant cotton working wear has low durability, and working wear with m-aramid fibers are stiff, heavy, less permeable, and expensive. In this study, recycled m-aramid and cotton have been blended to produce woven fabric of different compositions to enhance high performance and comfort to solve aforementioned problems. The fabrics were analyzed according to constituents and various structural factors. Mechanical properties were measured using KES-FB system. The measured thermal properties are TGA, $Q_{max}$, TPP and RPP. Fabric with polyurethane yarn covered by m-aramid/cotton spun yarn is observed to have good wearability. The fabric of open end spun yarn showed more stiffness than that of ring spun yarn. The sample with the high count of yarn has more smooth surface. In addition, high m-aramid content fabric is considered to have relatively high stiffness when using as clothing. In TGA the fabric with higher m-aramid content showed more stable decomposition behavior. The fabric having rough surface showed lower heat transfer properties in $Q_{max}$. The influence of the fabric thickness was important in convection and radiant heat test.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.459-473
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• 2019

This study analyzes a new aesthetic value of fashion design utilizing media art technology based on Marshall McLuhan's media theory, vitalize a creative fashion design by applying media art technology into traditional fashion design and discover the possibility of various formative expressions. The result of the analysis under the three criterion extracted through the examination of other art genre such as dance, music, architecture and painting are as follows. First, new concept clothing was designed in the way of combining science and technology with existing costume designs. Second, applying technology based media art images on clothes has been noticeably effected by changes to clothing surfaces. Third, fashion design using technology based media art stimulates the five senses and creates new communication structures. In conclusion, this study reveals that fashion design utilizing technology based media art, an innovative medium for future fashion development in digital society, has expanded the boundaries of fashion design beyond limits and contributed to diversity in creative fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.180-199
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• 2021

This study investigated natural aroma fragrance on the fashion image of Galchon, a traditional natural dyeing textile made with immature persimmon from the Jeju area, Korea. Nine fabric pairs consisting of differently colored cotton and silk Galchon with various tones and fabric types were used for subjective evaluation. Thirty five female college students evaluated the specimens using a 7-point scale questionnaire for fashion image-related adjectives. A specimen with three different presentation types that included fabric without fragrance (FO), fabric with citrus fragrance, and fabric with chamaecyparis (FCP) were randomly provided to a subject. As a result, color variables of Galchon were found to be the primary influence on fashion images for both cotton and silk Galchon that showed interaction effects with presentation types. The citrus fragrance increased the feeling of 'Active' while chamaecyparis tended to contribute to a stronger perception of 'Elegance' for cotton Galchon. Finally, these results were used to develop prediction models for fashion images of Galchon that employed color variables and presentation types.

• Journal of Plant Biotechnology
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• v.49 no.3
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• pp.257-270
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• 2022

The aim of this work was to prepare a new biodegradable polyhydroxybutyrate (PHB) submicron fiber mat loaded with hypericin-rich Hypericum perforatum raw extract by centrifugal spinning technology, an alternative approach to the traditional method of electrospinning to fabricate nanofibers or microfibers from solutions at high speed and low cost. Hypericins in methanol/acetone extract of H. perforatum were determined by UHPLC-MS/MS and HPLC/PDA. Submicron fiber mats composed of pure PHB or PHB enriched with H. perforatum extract were prepared using a pilot plant demonstrator for the centrifugal spinning technology and characterized by SEM. Singlet oxygen production was quantified by the 1,3-diphenylisobenzofuran (DPIBF) method in hexane. The results proved a significant production of singlet oxygen by the prepared submicron fiber mat. We also found a significant antibacterial activity against the bacterial strain Escherichia coli CCM 5417 by a method in accordance with JIS Z 2801/ISO 22196 standards. The H. perforatum extract-enriched PHB submicron fiber mats showed potential for the development of self-cleaning and antimicrobial air filters.

• The Journal of Information Systems
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.149-162
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• 2023

Purpose In the textile industry, fabric defects significantly impact product quality and consumer satisfaction. This research seeks to enhance defect detection by developing a transformer-based deep learning image segmentation model for learning high-dimensional image features, overcoming the limitations of traditional image classification methods. Design/methodology/approach This study utilizes the ZJU-Leaper dataset to develop a model for detecting defects in fabrics. The ZJU-Leaper dataset includes defects such as presses, stains, warps, and scratches across various fabric patterns. The dataset was built using the defect labeling and image files from ZJU-Leaper, and experiments were conducted with deep learning image segmentation models including Deeplabv3, SegformerB0, SegformerB1, and Dinov2. Findings The experimental results of this study indicate that the SegformerB1 model achieved the highest performance with an mIOU of 83.61% and a Pixel F1 Score of 81.84%. The SegformerB1 model excelled in sensitivity for detecting fabric defect areas compared to other models. Detailed analysis of its inferences showed accurate predictions of diverse defects, such as stains and fine scratches, within intricated fabric designs.

• Korea Trade Review
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• v.46 no.5
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• pp.131-152
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• 2021

Political connections may facilitate firms' exporting activities, particularly in developing countries, because politically connected firms may be more likely to receive informational and financial support, allowing them to overcome barriers to export. We test this hypothesis using a unique, firm-level dataset from traditional apparel and textile clusters in the Red River Delta Region in Northern Vietnam. We find that political connection of certain types increases the chance of receiving valuable information or financial support from the government. Moreover, those firms that have access to government information have higher chances of being direct exporters. However, firms that receive financial support from the government are not necessarily engaged in exporting activities. Although politically connected firms are more willing to export, they do not necessarily engage in more exporting activities than firms without such connections. These results suggest that the misallocation of information and financial resources to politically connected but insufficiently productive firms leads to a failure to promote exporting activities. In contrast, political connection increases the chance of importing materials and parts, possibly because high productivity is necessary for exporting, but not for importing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.183-203
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• 2007

This study aims at providing useful fundamental information to re-establish the theories of modern fashion by examining the origination and genealogy of street style. The street styles focusing on caucasoid have a variety of genealogies such as western type, beat, teddy boy, hippie, skinhead, punk, neuron-mantic, indie kid, riot grrrl, grunge and techno cyber punk. In the same period, on the contrary, the streets styles focusing on negroid are zootie, hipster, modernist, rude boy, two-tone, rastafarian, funky, B-boy, fly girl, raggamuffine, bhangra, and acid jazz, which are seen as the culture of the large cities formed along Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean sea like England, America and Jamaica. These have root as the main fashion in western society. Ironically, most of the subculture concentrated on the whites were racists. Because of such a reason, the street styles have been formed as resistance culture that was unable to sympathize with their society and characteristics by distinguishing the whites and the colored people. Zootie or hipster that is one of the street fashion styles was formed in the 1940-50s, while the colored people who lived in the west Indies migrated to England or America. As a minimal modernist style called Ivy look in US, in that time, anti-culture formed by teenagers in whitey, teddy boy and mods fashion can be strictly different from the zootie and hipster. The colored people's street styles of the 1960s developed into aggressive and hard forms from the rude boy and two-tone while their resistance toward the whites was stronger. The rastafarian style researched the peak as the colored people's traditional ethnic characteristics or resistance intention for their freedom in the 1970s. In that time, The colored people's street styles of the 1960s developed into aggressive and hard forms from the rude boy and two-tone while their resistance toward the whites was stronger. The rastafarian style researched the peak as the colored people's traditional ethnic characteristics or resistance intention for their freedom in the 1970s. In that time, the street styles of the whites were mostly the skinhead or hippie. Most of them were racists toward the colored people. The punk type on shown on the whites focused on luxury and exaggerative costume. On the contrary, the funky style of the colored people focused on aggressive nihilism and form. With B-boy, fly girl, reggae, rap music, and break dancing in the 1980s, the subculture gradually told on the high fashion as well as the culture between the whites and the colored people. From such aspects, the colored people tried to maintain their unique traditional characteristics. However, their individual values surged by the coming young generation excluded the colored people's characteristic street styles. Focusing on gender, violence and private success among their major concerns, the raga muffin style that represents multi-races and multi-cultures was formed. The jazz style in the 1990s showed cold post-modernistic eclecticism different from that of the 1940s-50s. Simultaneously, the various classes appeared their street styles by emphasizing on each personality. Now that we are living in multi-cultural society, a human race or nationalism concept is getting obscurer. There is no obvious boundary line in the differences between human race and its fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.14
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• pp.99-117
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• 1990

The purpose of this study was to investigate the change of clothes in modem Korean women in terms of a socioeconomical background, the introduction to western clothes, and the improvement of clothes between the opening period of ports in the early 1900's and 1960's. In addition, the study investigated how western clothes became popular in a Korean society along with the traditional' Korean clothes, Hanbok. The radical social change since the opening of ports motivated the change in the way of Korean women's thinking, and consequenty the improvement of Hanbok which developed into the clothes-improvement-movement. It was not until 1905 that the improvement of clothes was hotly debated particularly in the matter of abolishing Jangeui and the extreme length of Jeogori and Chima. The Tongchima-Jeogori style which lengthened Jeogori and shortened Chima was widely accepted as everyday wear until the western clothes substituted them after the Independence from Japanese Conquest. As the length of Chima shortened, there occurred a change in Boson and Jipsin as well. There appeared shoes and Gomoosin in place of Jipsin, socks in stead of Boson and were popularized until after the Liberation in 1945. The popularity of Gomoosin diminished markedly with the diversification of shoes styles, due to the improvement of the standard of living with economic development in the 1960's. The traditional Hanbok was gradually differentiated according to the social status, for instance student, teachers, ordinary women, girls and Kisaeng. Especially since the white clothes caused much trouble in washing and sewing, there came into being the movement of wearing colorful clothes. The Movement of abolishing white clothes and promoting of wearing colorful clothes was enforced during the period of Japaness conquest from the 1920's to the Liberation, which consequently stimulated an interest for colors of clothes. The period under the war between 1937 and 1945 was especially noted for the extreme regulation over the clothes. The Japanese government forced each group of women, e.g., girl students, a young women's association, school teachers, and ordinary women and girls, to wear their own uniforms. Also, It recommended the use of Tongchima in stead of long skirts, and buttons in place of Coreum so as to conserve textile encouraging the use of other substitutes to save resources. The western clothes, a model of clothe's improvement was deemed as a symbol of modernization and enjoyed general popularity. The supply of relief clothes after the Korean war accelerated the expansion of western clothes even further and the trend of westernization along with economic progress in the 1960's resulted in wearing of western clothes as everyday dress. The expansion of western clothes as casual wear rapidly diminished wearing of Hanbok which in turn took the position of ceremonial dress worn in special cases only. Hence the Korean women's clothes were dualized into traditional Hanbok and western clothes and the western clothes that stems on its convenience was settled as everyday wear where as the Hanbok appeared as ceremonial dress stressing on ornamental features. As mentioned aboved, we are able to discovered an orientation in the course of transitional process of modern Korean women's clothes admist diversified changes, which is a consistent pursuit of convenience and practicality based upon progmatism. The trend such as this carne into a finale' as women's dress became dualistic in forms of Hanbok and western clothes, and the change since then is supposed to proceed in two forms of dress featuring its own style.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.93-100
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• 2002

Cocoon production, which is a representative of traditional sericulture shifted into silkworm powder production in the spring of 1995. This, infect, signifies the change from the dress-centered textile business to the bio-industry and the functional resource industry. One of the most outstanding shifting is utilization of silkworm larvae for anti-diabetic agent. In Asian countries including Korea, silkworm powder derived from the domestic silkworm (Bombyx mori L.) has long been favored for anti-diabetic agent, but its efficacy was not tested until last decade by modern scientific methods. In this article, we reviewed the major researches on the silkworm powder as a blood glucose-lowering substance. After the beginning test of the efficacy of silkworm powder by a cooperative research between Department of Sericulture and Entomlogy, NIAST, RDA and Kyung Hee University, substantial data have been accumulated so far, In a serial experiment to select best condition, the fifth instar larvae prepared by freeze dry method turned out to have the best blood glucose-lowering effect. In the pharmacological experiment to understand the mechanism of silkworm powder in small intestine, the silkworm powder turned out to inhibit the activity of ${\alpha}$-glucosidase, by competitively binding to $\alpha$-type disaccharides. The animal experiment showed that the extract of silkworm powder prevents a rapid increase of blood glucose level after meal and prevents hunger and law blood glucose level during empty stomach. In the experiment to isolate the major component of silkworm powder, which exerts blood glucose-lowering effect, 1-deoxynojirimy-cin (DNJ) was eventually mass-purified, and it turned out that DNJ isolated from silkworm powder was excellent in its blood glucose-lowering effect. In the experiment to understand the personal difference of the efficacy of the silkworm powder, clinical candidates were divided on the basis of the criterion of traditional Chinese medicine: Tae-Yang, Tae-Um, So-yang, and So-Um. The result showed that silkworm powder has a tendency to reduce blood glucose level at fasting and at 2 hours after meal, and this trend was somewhat obvious in the Tae-Um body type. In summary, we reviewed scientific papers on the efficacy of silkworm powder and its purified DNJ as a blood glucose-lowering agent. These suggest that silkworm powder truly possesses blood glucose-lowering effect as documented in the traditional Chinese medicine, although further researches will be required to develop them as "medical" resource instead of functional food.