• 제목/요약/키워드: traditional silk fabrics

검색결과 58건 처리시간 0.026초

홍화의 홍색소 추출 용제의 종류에 따른 색상 변화 (Effect of Extraction Solvents on Color of the Dyed Fabrics with Safflower Red Colorants)

  • 손경희;신윤숙;류동일;최희;조아랑
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제32권3호
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    • pp.486-493
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    • 2008
  • 전통적인 알칼리 추출액인 콩대 잿물과 탄산칼륨수용액을 사용하여 홍색소를 추출하고 면, 마, 레이온, 견, 모, 그리고 나일론 직물에 염색하였다. 염색한 직물의 표면반사율과 염착량, 표면색을 측정하여 추출용제에 따른 차이를 비교 하였으며, 염색견뢰도를 평가하여 다음과 같은 결론을 얻었다. 1. 면, 마, 레이온, 그리고 견직물의 표면반사율 곡선은 추출용제에 따라 거의 같은 형태를 보였으며 최대흡수파장은 520nm에서 나타났다. 모와 나일론의 표면반사율 곡선형태는 추출용제간에 차이를 보였으며 최대흡수파장은 400nm에서 나타났다. 그리고 최대흡수파장 이외에 모는 520nm, 나일론은 540nm 파장부근에서 흡수대를 보였다. 2. 면, 마, 레이온, 견의 염착량은 잿물로 추출한 경우에 약간 더 높았으며, 모는 추출용매에 상관없이 비슷한 염착량을 보였고, 나일론은 탄산칼륨으로 추출한 경우에 약간 더 높게 나타났다. 3. 나일론 직물의 $L^{*}$값과 레이온의 $b^{*}$값을 제외하고는 탄산칼륨으로 추출하여 염색한 직물의 $L^{*},\;a^{*},\;b^{*}$, 그리고 $C^{*}$ 값이 잿물 추출에서 보다 더 높게 나타났다. 단 $a^{*},\;b^{*},\;C^{*}$ 값은 모와 나일론을 제외하고는 추출용제간의 차이가 매우 미비하였다. 잿물과 탄산칼륨 추출액으로 염색한 직물의 색차는 면, 견, 마, 레이온, 모직물, 그리고 나일론 순으로 크게 나타났다. 4. 잿물과 탄산칼륨수용액 추출에 의한 색상계열 차이는 나타나지 않았으며, 면, 레이온, 나일론은 RP계열, 마와 견은 R계열, 그리고 모는 YR계열로 나타났다. 나일론을 제외하고는 탄산칼륨수용액으로 추출한 경우에 더 밝고 선명한 색상으로 염색되었다. 5. 추출용제에 따른 세탁견뢰도에는 차이가 없었으며, 나일론, 레이온, 그리고 면과 마의 순으로 우수하였고 이염도 거의 나타나지 않았다. 견과 모의 드라이클리닝 견뢰도도 매우 우수하였다. 일광견뢰도도 추출용제에 따른 차이를 보이지 않았으나, 매우 낮게 나타났다. 6. 색상과 견뢰도 등에 큰 차이가 없으므로 전통적인 잿물 대신 탄산칼륨수용액을 추출용제로 사용하는 것이 색의 재현성이나 공정상의 측면에서 색의 표준화연구에 더 효율적인 방법이라 사료된다.

조선 초기 포화 금지령 (The Bans on Po in the Early Years of the Joseon Dynasty)

  • 최규순;고부자
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제13권5호
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    • pp.729-742
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    • 2005
  • This paper studied the ban on 'Po[포]', including hemp and ramie, on the basis of Joseon Wangcho Silok (the True Record of Joseon Dynasty). Po is the important point which can help to understand the people's life related with clothing. This paper showed that in the early years of the Joseon Dynasty, the state had forced kinds of bans on some fabrics many times. Among the bans of the fabrics-making the main part was the bans on Po, along with rice, used as money in those days. The state had on Po enacted on the policy to intend to promote paper money circulation more widely. However, people didn't want to use paper money. The reason why cloth could be practical and functional as a kind of currency was that people could make clothes with it at any time while they used it as money. People avoided using paper money that could not be used in that way, and so did public officials. At that time, Po that was generally used as money was the hemp of five warp threads. The measurement of the hemp in 7chi[촌; a Korean inch] by 35chok[척] and 32cm by 16m by modern metric. It also showed that it has been thought that the blended fabrics are the fabrics that were made of raw silk-threads and cotton threads as warp and weft respectively. However, the fact that there is a record of 'Jeo Ma Gyo Jik Po[저마교직포의]'(blended fabrics and clothes made of ramie and hemp) and there appear the new proofs of the fieldwork investigation shows that the concept of blended fabrics might be various or changeable as time passed.

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전통직물의 천연염료 염색에 관한 연구 (Dyeing of Treditional Fabrics with Natural Dyeing)

  • 정인모;이용우;우순옥
    • 한국잠사곤충학회지
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    • 제41권1호
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    • pp.61-69
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    • 1999
  • 모시, 삼베 및 견직물의 천연염료 염색 중 탄닌색소 함유 염료재료, 한약재 염료재료를 이용한 염색방법 구명 시험과 염색 후 항균성검증과 염색견뢰도를 측정한 결과는 다음과 같다. 가. 탄닌색소를 함유한 상수리나뭇잎, 호두외피, 밤송이 등의 추출액을 염색할 경우에 모시, 삼베, 견직물은 pH가 낮을수록, 또한, 염색온도가 높을수록 염섹직물은 짙게 염색되었다. 나. 홍화 염색에 있어서 홍색색소 추출온도가 40$^{\circ}C$에서는 염색 직물의 색상은 자주색(RP), 70$^{\circ}C$이상에서는 주황(YR)색상으로 변화되었다. 다. 염색견뢰도는 탄닌계 염재 및 쪽은 3~4급 이상으로 우수하였으며, 한약재 염재는 대부분이 3급이하로 불량하였다. 라. 주요 한약재 염재의 항균성은 직물별로도 차이가 있지만 소목의 균감소율이 낮기 때문에 항균성이 높았다.

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전통 색동이미지를 응용한 문화상품개발에 관한 연구 (A Study of the Development of Cultural Products that Utilize the Traditional Saekdong Image)

  • 이미석
    • 복식
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    • 제59권2호
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    • pp.101-110
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    • 2009
  • This is a study regarding the development of cultural products with applied traditional Saekdong-image. The objective of this study is to develop unique cultural products which combine traditional korean images with modern feel by utilizing traditional Saekdong-image. Saekdong has been an object of deep attachment and regarded as a tool for expressing korean images from ancient times to the present. Chosun dynasty shows a wonderful growth of fashion not only in dress but also in such accessories as patchwork wrapping-cloth and Saekdong, which imply a lot on formation or color arrangement. Approximately 24 pieces of cultural products that can be used in daily life were created using Saekdong, including traffic or credit card cases, name card cases, pouches, coin purses, bags, Vest, teapot wrapping-cloth, brooch. After design plans were made for each works, natural dyes were used to dye(dip dyeing) the fabrics(cotton, silk, linen) by theme. In addition, the increased quality of the products will be a competitive edge in the world market where products compete with no national bounds.

중국 신장 위구르족 전통 아틀라스(Atlas) 직물의 특성 (Characteristics of the traditional Atlas fabrics of the Xinjiang Uygur Minority Ethnic Group, China)

  • 왕리봉;이연희
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제28권2호
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    • pp.199-214
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    • 2020
  • The study investigates Atlas fabrics, the Ikat weaving method used by the Uygur People in Xinjiang, China. Based on domestic and foreign papers and other literature, different cultural characteristics of Ikat fabrics from various regions are compared. Following a theoretical investigation, characteristics of fabrics from the Indian Patola, Indonesian Ikat, Japanese Kasuri, and Uzbekistan Adras are summarized and compared with the characteristics of pattern, color, and manufacturing process of Atlas silk from Xinjiang China (also an Ikat fabric). The results are as follows. First, although the weaving process used for Ikat fabrics differs from country to country according to different national cultures, lifestyles, colors, patterns, and usage methods, they are all Ikat dyed fabrics. Therefore, they are all regarded as precious objects symbolizing a certain social status, and are used as a gift for special occasions, such as weddings. Second, the form of the pattern varies. Indian Patola has clear outlines and regular patterns, while the patterns of Japanese Kasuri are mainly inspired by folk life ideas. Indonesian Ikat contains influences from indigenous tribes, and Uzbekistan's and China's Atlas textiles are influenced by geography, religion, and national culture, including bright colors and pattern designs inspired by plants, musical instruments, and geometric figures. Finally, the patterns and colors of Xinjiang Atlas fabrics present strong ethnic characteristics. Unlike the Uzbekistan fabric which is mostly influenced by Islam, human and animal patterns would not feature in Xinjiang Atlas patterns, which mostly consist of long strips, repeated in a neat and orderly form.

Bacillus subtilis K-54의 단백질 분해효소 처리에 의한 양모와 견의 품질개선효과 (The Effect of Quality Improvement for Wool and Silk Treated with Protease Produced by B. subtilis K-54)

  • 강상모;차민경;김수진;권윤정
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제8권2호
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    • pp.239-244
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    • 2006
  • For studies of fibrinolytic enzyme strain K-54 was isolated from the Korean traditional food chungkook-jang. Isolated strains K-54 was identified as Bacillus subtilis. The molecular weight of fibrinolytic enzyme from B. subtilis K-54 was 27 kDa. Optimum temperature for fibrinolytic enzyme of B. subtilis K-54 was $50-70^{\circ}C$ and optimum pH for producing the enzyme of this strain was ranging from 8 to 12. Also, it was found out enzyme activity was completely inhibited by 1mM PMSF. The result indicated this enzyme was thermo-stable alkaline serine protease with strong fibrinolytic activity. The wool and silk were treated with protease of B. subtilis K-54. As a result, the property of dyeing of wool fabrics was increased. By the increasing of treatment time became smoothened. But the change of mechanical properties were not changed.

조선왕조실록에 나타난 철릭 고찰 (A study on Cheollik in The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty)

  • 김명자;이소영
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제20권4호
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    • pp.105-115
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    • 2018
  • This paper presents an investigation into Cheollik based on 288 records about it at the homepage of The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty on the Internet. Cheollik was called in diverse names and worn by various social classes from kings to common people, but it was solidified as clothes for military officers toward the latter half of Joseon. Not only did it serve the purpose of clothes, but it also was used for a royal grant, diplomacy, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. It served the diplomatic purposes a lot especially during the reign of King Sejo and King Seongjong. Cheollik was usually made of cotton, hemp, silk, and mixed fabric with silk used most. Its major colors include white, green, red, blue, black, purple, grey, and yellow with white used most. The fabrics and colors of Cheollik became simplified toward the latter half of Joseon. Silk was most used in Cheollik for a royal grant, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. White was most used in Cheollik for kings' visit to royal tombs or their participation in ancestral rites. There were limitations with the selection of materials according to the social status and situations. It was stipulated that only Sa and Ju were used to make Cheollik for Dangsangguan and Danghaguan. Cheollik made of silk was banned for country residents and merchants. The color of Cheollik for Danghaguan was changed to blue and then red. Of military officers, only those who had a Gonsu title or higher were allowed to wear Cheollik made of silk in various colors. In the end, Cheollik was abolished for its low convenience and efficiency during the rule of King Gojong.

섬유문화재 보존에 활용하기 위한 천연보존제로 처리한 직물의 특성연구 (A Study on the Characteristics of Natural Preservative Agent-treated Fabrics for Textile Cultural Properties Preservation)

  • 백영미
    • 보존과학회지
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    • 제25권2호
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    • pp.197-206
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    • 2009
  • 천연보존제는 주로 식물에서 추출된 항균물질로 만들어지며 부패되기 쉬운 식품의 보존제나 천연화장품, 약품등에 주로 사용되고 있다. 본 연구는 현재 천연화장품의 보존제로 개발되어진 천연보존제를 직물에 처리하여 이것이 섬유문화재 보존에 적용이 가능한지를 탐색하고 평가하는데 그 목적이 있다. 따라서 천연보존제로 처리한 직물의 특성을 알아보고자 천연보존제 1%로 처리한 면직물과 견직물에 대해 실험한 결과 색 및 인장강도의 변화가 극히 미약하고 중성에 가까운 pH를 나타내었으며 우수한 항균성과 항곰팡이성을 가지는 것으로 나타났고 견직물에 피해를 주는 Bacillus cereus에 대해서도 우수한 항균활성을 나타내었다. 또한 섬유문화재에 적용시키기 위한 예비실험으로 출토직물 편을 천연보존제 1%로 처리한 직물로 싸서 72시간 보관한 후 출토직물편의 미생물 실험결과 미생물의 증식이 확연히 준것을 알 수 있었다.

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Research of a new tie-dyeing tool based on 3D printing technology

  • Tu, Dan Dan;Kim, Sohyun
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제30권1호
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    • pp.161-171
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    • 2022
  • Traditional tie-dyeing is widely implemented in the clothing handicraft culture in China, South Korea, and Japan. Since it was developed 2,000 years ago, it has become a popular method of fabric making in the world and is highly respected by fashion designers. Based on the existing traditional tie-dyeing methods, this study conducted specific research on the 3D printing technology of the SLS laser method and the micro tool design application method of the clamp-dyeing process. Through the experimental methods of this study, it proposes to use the "7000 Nylon" material, which is commonly used in 3D printing, to develop a new clamp-dyeing tool. This new tool can be widely used in the clamp-dyeing of fabrics, such as cotton, hemp, silk, and some chemical fibers. The applied method and principle can be consistent with the traditional clamp-dyeing method. Therefore, the innovation of tie-dyeing technology is the best protection measure for the development and inheritance of traditional fabric making. The continuation of artistic life needs originality, which is also the best response to market competition. At the same time, this new design of the clamp-dyeing tool has the characteristics of novelty, innovation, and rich changes, which aligns with the new fashion demands of current fabric design.

소귀나무 수피(양매피) 추출물을 이용한 견직물의 염색성과 기능성 (Dyeability and Function of Silk Fabrics Using Myrica Rubra rind Extract)

  • 이정은
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제20권5호
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    • pp.608-615
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    • 2018
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability and functional properties of dyed fabric with the extract of Myrica rubra rind. For this purpose, the ultraviolet and visible spectra of the bark extracts were investigated. The dyeing temperature, dyeing time, mordant type, mordanting order, mordant concentration and dyeability were investigated. The color fastness based on washing, dry-cleaning, rubbing and light were evaluated by the types of Myrica rubra rind extract used. In addition, the deodorization and antibacterial activity were measured, and the functionality of the silk fabric dyed with the extract of the Myrica rubra rind was evaluated. The result shows that the color strength of the dye was excellent when the Myrica rubra rind was dyed at $80^{\circ}C$ for 80 minutes. The mordant dye color strength was high in the order of Fe mordant> Cu mordant> Al mordant. The dyeability of Al and Cu mordant was high during pre-mordanting compared to Fe mordant, and the dyeability of Fe mordant was high during post-mordanting than Cu and Al mordant. The deodorant property of the dyed fabric stained with the Myrica rubra rind extract was 92.4% and that of antibacterial property was 99.9% for Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae bacteria respectively.