• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.4
• /
• pp.162-178
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to find aesthetic characteristics of Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes in Modernization that happened in Korea and Japan during the late 19th century and the 20th century. The meaning of modernity has indefinite and comprehensive aspects, and the essence of modernity is found in searching for new changes. Modernization is the process of realizing modernity, and costume modernization can be discussed from the viewpoint of seeking new changes, functionality and popularization of costume. As Korean and Japanese costumes went through modernization, western costume became daily clothes of both two countries. The modernization of Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes were achieved in the two directions. First, Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes changed to search for functionality modeled of western costume. Korean costume went through dress reform movement and were generally simplified. Japanese costume made a change of wearing mode and introduced new garment like 'Hakama'. Second, the new style of traditional costume appeared. In Korea, 'Saenghwal Hanbox' was shown in the late 20c and in Japan, The reproduced dress(更生服)' and The women's standard dress(婦人標準服)' were shown in the late 1930's and the early 1940's. These kinds of new garment style were the more active compromise between the East and the West.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.52 no.7
• /
• pp.27-44
• /
• 2002

The Folk-dress of some parts of the traditional style is extremely focused and puts value on protecting itself against changes. Generally rural areas are much more conservative politically economically, and culturally. Its environment is sluggish and slow and daily routines change slowly. So they take friendly a position between a race and geographical and environmental differences which is expressed in the Folk-dress. Also, a dress is the most preferred individual object as a symbol of collective homogeneity. By those people who preserve these kinds of the individual objects and by those people who have ethnic conservation, folk-dress was handed down to the present age and the festival dress was used as a tool of ethnic tradition and binding. Therefore, 1 would like to study and research the differences between the folk-dress of the Lithuanian historical and geographical factors and the folk-dress of the surrounding north-eastern European countries. Especially when we compare these with the folk-dress in terms of historical, cultural. and political relationships between Lithuania and the north-eastern European countries, we can find out that they had a good effect on the folk-dress historically and culturally.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.1
• /
• pp.11-21
• /
• 2004

This study examined the kinds, shape, technique, and arrangement of pattern for the Korean traditional women costume between 1995 and 2002. The sources used this study were collected from the magazine “HANBOK, ONGOJISHIN, BEAUTIFUL OUR DRESS” Results were as follows 1) In the kinds of pattern, the most pattern of use was the flower pattern, and the geometric pattern showed the trend of increase. these results mean the use of pattern lately is progressed by the new direction. 2) In the shape of pattern, the style shapes were decreased gradually and the geometric shapes were increased. these results show that the modern beauty is chased. 3) In the technique of pattern. the results viewed that the embroidery technique used in the meantime decreased and the JOGAKBO technique increased. 4) In the arrangement of pattern, the modern arrangement was most superior in the most of year. That is estimated the arrangement of pattern have been chased the modern beauty than the others of pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.28 no.8
• /
• pp.1076-1087
• /
• 2004

The purpose of the study is to give new aesthetic values of black dress one of the important items in contemporary women＇s fashion. Through the work, to give the new aesthetic characteristics that women really needed can be found. This study was processed by fashion books and articles, literal material with fashion photos which were related fashion trend from 1920 to the present. The results are as follows: In early 20th century, the black dress, which had simple form pursuing function like little black dress. In the middle of the 20th century, elegance and minimalism was represented by black dress, expressed erotic images together with see-through fabrics. In the end of the 20th century, body conscious style of black dress expressed sensual images of women. Modem black dress has design characteristics of the form: simple, close, exposure type and of the materials: matte, transparent and dazzling etc. Simple type emphasizes feminine elegance, while close type and exposure type disclose woman body curve to express erotic images. Matte materials made black dress express feminine elegance while transparent materials and dazzling materials made black dress express erotic and sensual beauty. The aesthetic characteristics of black dress were as followings: Sensualism expresses sexual attractiveness of women-close type and exposure type black dress and see-through materials and dazzling materials made black dress. Simplicity of extreme decoration effects are expressed through black dress having temperate and simple form. Femineity expresses traditional femineity to emphasize chaste, modest and elegant women images-the black dress, which is made of simple form, velvet and satin materials. Modernism combines black colour, which is called modem colour, with simplicity and function factors and pursues simple form. Ascetic practice controls mental and physical desire of the individuals, simple form without decoration covering up woman body and box type silhouette of black dress. Therefore, the study on image of the black dress, which have made appearance at modern fashion, is thought to help develop fashion trends and design, through which modern women express themselves and their beauty.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.131-142
• /
• 2009

In response to the need of developing children's wear design using traditional elements, this study purposed to develop fashion designs emphasizing contemporary images based on the symbolism and formativeness of traditional dresses. For this study, we reviewed the definitions and symbolism of traditional colors and traditional patterns using previous research, and classified them according to formative shape. In addition, this study made three pieces of dress and developed unique designs by applying the traditional patterns and elements of Korean traditional dress styles. The research methods were as follows. First, we examined the images of Korean traditional colors and classified the symbols and meanings of the colors. Second, we identified the types of patterns, and classified them into shapes and symbols. Third, we designed and made actual works by applying traditional patterns. Based on the theoretical studies as presented above, we developed contemporary casual hanbok designs for children by applying symbolic and formative traditional patterns and using DTP (digital textile printing).

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.2 no.2
• /
• pp.225-245
• /
• 1994

The purpose of this study is to survey of dress and personal adornments of young Korean people from 1980 to 1992. This study is applied of the thoughts of culture of B. Malinowski and related to social and cultual background. The materials of clothes have had higher quality and the colors varied. And sports wear has popularized even for a daywear as people have concerned of the health a lot. Big look and unisex mode in casual wear have been also popular. Underwears and jeans became fashionable. Paints and skirts have been getting shorter and they reached to the mini length. And reformed-Korean traditional clothes has developed. Ecology has been appeared as a whole in fashion. The dress and personal adornments gave satisfaction to modern people who pursuit of healthy ad convenience of life and want to creat the individuality and intend to develop of traditional culture and want to express themselves as perfecdtion of self.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.2
• /
• pp.121-133
• /
• 2004

This study is about japanese national suit. women's standard dress, and mompe, which were used as a means of controlling people's life and simplifying people's clothing during the chinese-japanese war(1937) and the pacific war(1941-1945). National suit was a semi-military uniform for men and it was the western style suit composed of jacket, under shirt, and pants. National suit was not popular during the early war, but it became popular afterward. Women's standard dress had the two kinds of styles : the kimono and the western style. Women's standard dress was not popularly distributed. Instead, many japanese women wore mompe, the active wear of standard dress. Almost all of japanese women wore mompe by the end of war because of its practical use. The effects of national suit, standard dress, and mompe on the rapid westernization of postwar japanese clothing can be summarized as follows. First, national suit and standard dress contributed to the official acceptance of the western clothes as japanese daily clothes. Second, national suit, standard dress, and mompe changed the traditional view of japanese on clothing and caused the rapid westernization of japanese clothing with the high emphasis on the practical and functional use of clothing. Especially, as japanese women wore mompe as the outer garment, mompe affected the view of japanese on women's body and it served as an important stimulus to speed the westernization of japanese women's clothing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.18 no.1
• /
• pp.183-190
• /
• 2016

A mourning dress is the formal costume that the mourners wear to show civility during the mourning. Traditional funeral rites are the Confucianism's funeral proceeding where the mourners wear according to the National Mourning Dresses System. However, nowadays, the funeral proceedings and mourning dresses are simplified. In result of current design analysis of the mourning dresses for women, the types of the mourning dresses for women are classified by traditional styles and modern styles. Traditional styles include skits and Jeogori make of hemp fabrics, and modern styles include skits and Joegori style, modernized Hanbok style, and Western style, which consist of cardigan, waist skits, jackets, and pants. The modern styles mostly use polyester and the color consists mainly of black and white. The followings propose new designs of mourning dress for women that reflect practicality, flexibility, and diversity. First, transmit the meaning that traditional mourning dress entails Second, change the length and the width of Jeogori and skirt by reflecting the trend of the time and change the designs of the mourning dresses by using the details of the modern styles so that they are equipped with practicality, flexibility, and affordability. Third, pursue diversity by changing the uniformed fabrics and colors used on the existing mourning dresses. This study addresses the drawbacks and the points that need be improved to suggest the designs of the modern mourning dress for women, which reflect the characteristics of Hanbok and cultural traits.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.7 no.3
• /
• pp.17-26
• /
• 2005

In this research, in order to find out the effect of the area ratio in the harmonic sense assessment of the coloration of Korean clothes, the coloration of a Korean jacket and a skirt was compounded with a similar coloration and a contrast coloration. The respondents were asked to evaluate 16 stimuli of the traditional Korean skirt and jacket with the coloration of the Korean jacket/ skirt, the skirt/ Korean jacket was separately compounded to be 4 tones such as vivid, light, dull, dark. The subjects were 44 female undergraduate students. The results of each can be summerized as follows. As to similar coloration, the korean yellow jacket and red skirt, Korean students feel vivid and dull tone was harmonious, and American students feel vivid, light, and dark tone were harmonious coloration. In inversed case, red korean jacket and yellow skirt, both countries' students recognized that the vivid tone was harmonious. Korean students gave higher points to korean traditional dress in similar coloration such as yellow korean jacket which was small area and red skirt which was large area coloration than inversed color area ratio which red korean jacket and yellow skirt. As to contrast coloration, the korean green jacket and red skirt, Korean students feel vivid tone was harmonious, and American students feel vivid, dark tone were harmonious coloration. In inversed case, red korean jacket and green skirt were recognized that any tone was not harmonious for both countries' students. Both countries of student showed the culture gap. Compared with American students, Korean students were familiar with korean dress's traditional coloration, as a result familiar coloration was recognized harmonious coloration.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
• /
• 1998.09a
• /
• pp.50-51
• /
• 1998